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A while ago a friend of mine gave me a really nice set of Harley heated gloves with out the harnesses that should go with them. I've got the gloves and the little control box but nothing else so I'm going to have to make the wires up but it's not a big deal. They use regular charger adapter plugs so they shouldn't be a problem to source from the crazy pile of broken random components/electronics supply dump near my work. What I was trying to figure out is how to route the wires. Do you put them near the handlebars and just unplug them when you move your hands or do you route the wires all through your jacket or something before you head out? I'm looking forward to being able to ride into the higher elevations and see snow without freezing my rear end off like last year. I'm just hoping my 80's charging system is up to the task.
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Oct 16, 2010 05:17
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FieryMatrix fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Oct 18, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2010 22:20
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I'd pick up a replacement stainless steel brake line. It should come with replacement banjo bolts and crush washers, so replace it and get some fresh fluid in there and you'll be good to go.
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Oct 17, 2010 03:13
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I have the chance to pick up a '77 Suzuki GT550 for next to nothing. The bad is it does not currently run, it does however come with "2 or 3 of almost everything, including 2 other engines." I consider my self a pretty handy guy in the shop, so working on it isn't going to be a huge issue. Space likewise isn't an issue, I'm building a 36x60 shop. This seems like a good winter project for me to dick around with and it would be something enjoyable to goof around on when it's done. Anyone know anything about those bikes besides what an hour with google can tell me? I will get a Clymer/Haynes for it if I end up getting the bike.
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Oct 17, 2010 04:23
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FieryMatrix posted:I did notice if I move the rubber area circled it is ripped almost entirely. I wasn't able to identify that rubber part from schematics or the service manual, so maybe you have some insight. That's just the protective boot that goes over one of your caliper pins. While not absolutely crucial to the brakes, it does keep grease in and water/dirt out to keep the caliper sliding smoothly. Replacement looks to be: http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687/PartNumber/49006-1094/Source/KA To replace it, you'll have to pull the caliper halves apart, pull the boot off/out of whichever side it stuck with, and slide the new boot onto the pin. Put a little grease on the flared end and put the caliper halves back together.
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Oct 17, 2010 07:49
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I'm riding a new 2011 Triumph Bonneville T100 that I picked up from the dealer a few weeks ago. I've been resetting the trip odometer when I fill up the tank, and I've noticed that the low fuel light is going on after only 80 miles or so. It's a 4.2 gallon tank, so either the low fuel light is designed to go on really early or something's wrong with my MPG. Should I be getting more miles per tank from this bike?
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Oct 17, 2010 19:09
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Well did you work out the mpg? I mean, you know how much you filled up after the low fuel light came on so...?
nsaP fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Oct 17, 2010 |
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Oct 17, 2010 19:15
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Neckbeard v. 2.0 posted:Well did you work out the mpg? I mean, you know how much you filled up after the low fuel light came on so...?
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Oct 17, 2010 19:24
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How are you filling it up? Are you filling it like a car where you're just shoving the nozzle in and letting it click off?
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Oct 18, 2010 05:13
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Used Sunlight sales posted:I have the chance to pick up a '77 Suzuki GT550 for next to nothing. Suzuki were the masters of 2 strokes. The Gt550 is a freaky reliable 2 stroke. Making a 2 stroke run is also silly easy. Buy it.
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Oct 18, 2010 07:19
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10-8 posted:I usually put in just under 3 gallons. So that's about 26mpg. Seemed lower to me in my head, I guess. The low fuel light may come on when the bike's on the sidestand if the tank's not full, depending on where they put it. My Hornet will show "reserve" if you start it on the sidestand with half a tank in it - after riding for a few minutes, it will show the actual level. Not sure how the sensor is positioned in a Bonne. Assuming this isn't the problem and that you're measuring correctly, you should be getting closer to twice that MPG. I would take it to your dealer and have them sort it out. Most probably the sensor is faulty.
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Oct 18, 2010 09:32
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Z3n posted:How are you filling it up? Are you filling it like a car where you're just shoving the nozzle in and letting it click off? Am I doing this wrong? Saga posted:The low fuel light may come on when the bike's on the sidestand if the tank's not full, depending on where they put it. My Hornet will show "reserve" if you start it on the sidestand with half a tank in it - after riding for a few minutes, it will show the actual level. Not sure how the sensor is positioned in a Bonne.
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Oct 19, 2010 00:34
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10-8 posted:I've been trying to eyeball where the fuel is in the tank. It automatically clicks off way too early from what I can tell. I stop filling when it's almost full but not spilling over. You are correct in that it clicks off way too early if you shove it in straight, if you're in CA you have to pull the vapor catcher thing back in order to get it to pump, and then you have to manually meter it off as it fills. Sounds like you should ask the shop about it though, looks like the problem is elsewhere.
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Oct 19, 2010 00:37
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Will I notice any benefit or safety of putting on a steering stabilizer/damper on my 636 for normal street riding?
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Oct 19, 2010 04:29
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It'll help reduce the potential or severity of tankslappers due to irregular pavement, setting down the front wheel crossed up, or heavy acceleration when you weight the bars too heavily. Usually it'd be a combination of all of these factors that'd cause a nasty tankslapper. Is there a particular reason you want one though? The bike should be stable enough as is that you shouldn't need one, they've got a nice solid, stable geometry stock.
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Oct 19, 2010 05:55
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Z3n posted:
No not particularly, just thinking of any worthwhile practical upgrades to the bike. The bikes been super stable and solid since i've been riding it. So far i've only added a tank pad and swingarm spools. The stock exhaust sounds pretty nice as it is I don't see any reason i'd need to change it. I haven't even played around with any of the suspension settings at all, it's a little daunting because i've never had much besides preload adjustment to play with. I might end up softening up the rear end a bit since it tends to be pretty bouncy over the rougher stuff. I also ended up buying the pit bull triple tree front stand for lifting up the front of my bikes.
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Oct 19, 2010 06:28
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I sent my stock 09 ZX6R Ohlins steering damper to Dan Kyle Racing and had the needle valve swapped for the real Ohlins piece for $100. Worth every drat penny on this bike the way I have it geared... the lightest setting is stiffer than the previous hardest setting and shake is an issue on this bike.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Oct 19, 2010 |
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Oct 19, 2010 06:44
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Is it possible to buy a chain pre-connected? My Wee-Strom needs a new chain (I've put 15k on the current chain, and the PO had about 10, he said), and everything I've found online says it comes with a master link for you to put it together yourself. I don't have one of those chain making tools, and don't feel the need to buy one as I'm leaving the country in a few months.
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Oct 19, 2010 07:01
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Tsaven Nava posted:Is it possible to buy a chain pre-connected? My Wee-Strom needs a new chain (I've put 15k on the current chain, and the PO had about 10, he said), and everything I've found online says it comes with a master link for you to put it together yourself. I don't have one of those chain making tools, and don't feel the need to buy one as I'm leaving the country in a few months. Not related to your question, but where are ya going? Moto trip?
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Oct 19, 2010 07:09
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Moto trip, yes, but that's just because I need to get in as much seat time as possible before getting shipped overseas for a new job. I dunno if you remember that Antarctica Ask/Tell thread of mine that made the front page a while ago (http://www.somethingawful.com/d/comedy-goldmine/antarctica-living-working.php), but the new job is sort of like that. Only instead of a frozen wasteland, it's on a tropical island (Kwajalein, in the Marshall Islands)
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Oct 19, 2010 07:19
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Tsaven Nava posted:Is it possible to buy a chain pre-connected? My Wee-Strom needs a new chain (I've put 15k on the current chain, and the PO had about 10, he said), and everything I've found online says it comes with a master link for you to put it together yourself. I don't have one of those chain making tools, and don't feel the need to buy one as I'm leaving the country in a few months. Unless you're using some sort a really wacky chain, you can put a master link together with a simple pair of needle nose pliers. You don't need a chain breaker for a chain with a master link. When you put the clip on, the open end must ALWAYS face away from the direction of travel. When the chain is on top, and moving towards the engine, the open part of the clip needs to face to the rear of the bike.
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Oct 19, 2010 07:32
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Well the chains I'd looked at all said they used a rivit-type master link, which I assumed was different then the clip-style that I've used for all my other non-motorcycle chain needs
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Oct 19, 2010 07:44
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is any of this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Suspension/auction-325557501.htm useful for my k7 SV650s? As in, will GSXR600 fork internals be bolt on/drop(ish) in usable? For NZ$35 (I think that's about US$20-25) it sounds like a cheap upgrade op
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Oct 19, 2010 11:04
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I'm thinking of getting into riding sometime next year, will take the MSF before christmas. I've read the suggestions for obvious starter bikes Ninja 250/500 and GS500. I also remember reading somewhere that the Ninjas are better suited for shorter riders.. is this true? Reason I ask is that I'm 6'4, long legs. Granted, i won't know what bike is most comfortable until I sit on one, but I could use some suggestions.
Russian Bear fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Oct 19, 2010 |
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Oct 19, 2010 11:20
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NoDoorway posted:is any of this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Suspension/auction-325557501.htm useful for my k7 SV650s? As in, will GSXR600 fork internals be bolt on/drop(ish) in usable? If you're gonna spend the money/time upgrading fork internals you might as well drop the cash on some Race Tech gear, can't really see 8yr old 600 parts being a worthwhile improvement.
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Oct 19, 2010 11:25
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Tsaven Nava posted:Well the chains I'd looked at all said they used a rivit-type master link, which I assumed was different then the clip-style that I've used for all my other non-motorcycle chain needs
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Oct 19, 2010 12:12
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Suspension setup query for those racers/ex-racers and others who do a lot of shock fiddling (Z3N?): Ohlins 46PRCLS on a Hornet, ride height in the middle (~stock setting I presume). I put it two clicks up on compression and one up on rebound during the hottest bit of the summer, as it had started wallowing a bit as the weather warmed. I had checked the sag with stock settings when I put the shock on, and it was in the ballpark. There's a crest taken about 60-70 going in either direction on my commute, standing up in either direction (to prevent a jump on the way down or wheelieing into limited visibility going up) gets the rear spinning as the front wheel leaves the ground if it's wet (or cold enough). It's also spun up a couple times on smaller crests in the wet and on a straight this morning (that last might just have been diesel though, as it was damp too). Back tyre is in good condition. Does this sound like too much compression? Back off a click? Or is it something else? This shock seems pretty sensitive to adjustment and temperature compared to the Ohlins on my TRX, which pretty much felt like the stock shock grip and handling wise, just plusher.
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Oct 19, 2010 14:46
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Nerobro posted:Suzuki were the masters of 2 strokes. The Gt550 is a freaky reliable 2 stroke. Making a 2 stroke run is also silly easy. Buy it. Kawasaki were pretty hot too, but lacked the SRIS. The GT550 is pretty solid, but parts are becoming rare. I have my challenges getting parts for my GT750. Only serious problem with the GT550 is over-heating, though. The Ram-air cooling definitely lacks in performance compared to the liquid cooled 750.
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Oct 19, 2010 15:00
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Tsaven Nava posted:Well the chains I'd looked at all said they used a rivit-type master link, which I assumed was different then the clip-style that I've used for all my other non-motorcycle chain needs They make clip types for bikes too, they're all I use. NoDoorway posted:is any of this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Suspension/auction-325557501.htm useful for my k7 SV650s? As in, will GSXR600 fork internals be bolt on/drop(ish) in usable? They won't fit in the stock SV fork tubes. That front end would be a nice upgrade, but you'd need the complete front end. Saga posted:Suspension setup query for those racers/ex-racers and others who do a lot of shock fiddling (Z3N?): Ohlins 46PRCLS on a Hornet, ride height in the middle (~stock setting I presume). Are you absolutely sure that the bike isn't leaving the ground when you do that? Coming off a crest like that, especially in colder weather where there's less overall traction, it's easy to get the rear spinning when it unloads. Now, if that's not the case, what you need is less rebound damping...as the weather gets colder and the shock oil gets more viscous, it's going to increase the rebound and compression damping at a given setting. So if this is a new development, and not related to the bike leaving the ground or the loss of overall traction as things cool down, then taking one or 2 clicks of rebound out is where I'd start.
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Oct 19, 2010 18:40
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Z3n posted:They make clip types for bikes too, they're all I use. Cool, thanks, I'll return rebound to stock and see how it goes. It's just happening now and it's definitely this shock on this bike.
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Oct 19, 2010 22:50
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The 46 PRCLS is basically a race shock, that's probably why you're not seeing that same "plush" ride. You can back off the compression a bit more if you're looking for more compliance in the suspension.
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Oct 20, 2010 00:03
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What do I need to do to keep my bike stored if I'm not going to be on it for a few weeks - a couple months? I'm planning on sta-bil in the gas tank, swapping the water wetter for antifreeze, putting it on a tender..anything else? How do you usually store a track bike when it isn't at the track?
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Oct 20, 2010 00:44
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You put a headlights and tail lights back on and ride it around on the street
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Oct 20, 2010 01:04
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-Inu- posted:What do I need to do to keep my bike stored if I'm not going to be on it for a few weeks - a couple months? I'm planning on sta-bil in the gas tank, swapping the water wetter for antifreeze, putting it on a tender..anything else? How do you usually store a track bike when it isn't at the track? If you're anal you're supposed to change the oil right before storage and drop some oil down the spark plug holes as well. But that's really only for like 4+ months of storage I think.
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Oct 20, 2010 02:38
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Battery tender, top off the gas tank, add stabil, run it a bit to get it circulated through the syste, get the tires off the ground if possible, and forget about it. It's fuel injected so it should fire right up after you're done. If it didn't run nicely a few months down the line, I'd siphon out as much gas as possible and replace it with fresh stuff.
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Oct 20, 2010 04:42
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Z3n posted:
Cool, I kinda figured that'd be the case. I can get a new k3-k4 GSXR1k rear shock fairly cheap, apparently they bolt on with some minor battery box cutting. Is that still going to be too under sprung for my 95kg (about 210lb I think)? Or should I hold out for a ZX14 shock?
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Oct 20, 2010 08:59
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NoDoorway posted:Is that still going to be too under sprung for my 95kg (about 210lb I think)? Probably, yes. Your best bet is going to forking out for a proper rebuild and better aftermarket shock.
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Oct 20, 2010 09:40
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-Inu- posted:What do I need to do to keep my bike stored if I'm not going to be on it for a few weeks - a couple months? Nothing if it's stored in a reasonable warm garage. place it on the center stand, and rotate the wheels from time to time.
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Oct 20, 2010 11:13
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No garage. It's either going to be in the carport (doubtful) or my dining room. I'll run some stabilizer through it and toss it on a tender this weekend.Tsaven Nava posted:You put a headlights and tail lights back on and ride it around on the street  FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:If you're anal you're supposed to change the oil right before storage and drop some oil down the spark plug holes as well. But that's really only for like 4+ months of storage I think.
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Oct 21, 2010 05:57
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I had trouble starting the GS500F this morning, it felt kind of weak while cranking and it never really caught. I tried a bunch of times, it ALMOST started but eventually the battery just got too weak and died. I put it on a trickle charger and took a different bike to work. I hadn't ridden it in about 6 days, but i've gone way longer without riding it and it always started up just fine. I came home and set the petcock to prime and gave it another go and it started right up on the first try. set the petcock to on and let it warmup for a while. I rode it to fill it up with gas. Hooked up a multimeter just in case, it was reading about 12.42 volts after the ride with ignition off. While running it was reading a healthy 14.x volts so the charging system is fine. Is this just a symptom of me not starting the bike for 6 days and having it sit in a cold garage? Should I just order another battery for it? It's one of those pesky batteries you have to fill with acid yourself and charge it.
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Oct 21, 2010 06:02
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