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I think it's one of those deals where, if it works fine now, just leave it alone and chalk it up to a carb'ed foible. My friend's 1992 ZX-7 took forever to start after letting it sit for a couple weeks and was fine after that. Could be not enough gas in the float bowls or who knows what else. As for the battery, check the voltage with the bike off tomorrow and if it's still at 12, your battery is probably fine.
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Oct 21, 2010 14:43
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Z3n posted:No, it's just your technique. The best way to learn it is to lightly preload the shifter with the throttle on, and then roll off as you push up on the shifter, you'll feel it drop into gear. It's a VERY fast movement, the second you start to roll off the throttle, the bike needs to shift while the transmission isn't under load, which is a tiny slice of time. I tried this today, and it was damned fun and makes the shifts oh-so-quick!  It didn't always work, but most of the time it did and I didn't hear any protestations from the gearbox on the times that it didn't, it just didn't shift. I take it there would be grinding or some other clear indication if you did it badly enough to damage anything? If anything I just need to work on applying the throttle more gently after the change, the shifts felt a bit jarring sometimes.
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Oct 22, 2010 11:30
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Here4DaGangBang posted:If anything I just need to work on applying the throttle more gently after the change, the shifts felt a bit jarring sometimes. It will be trickier to get back on the throttle the lower down the rpm range and the easier you're taking it. If you do it whilst going at it high-rpm, high , it'll be way easier (not saying you have to do that of course).
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Oct 22, 2010 11:50
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2ndclasscitizen posted:It will be trickier to get back on the throttle the lower down the rpm range and the easier you're taking it. If you do it whilst going at it high-rpm, high , it'll be way easier (not saying you have to do that of course). So how much chance is there that one would gently caress their transmission doing this? In general I mean.
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Oct 22, 2010 12:44
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Here4DaGangBang posted:It didn't always work, but most of the time it did and I didn't hear any protestations from the gearbox on the times that it didn't, it just didn't shift. I take it there would be grinding or some other clear indication if you did it badly enough to damage anything? If you try and force the gear lever instead of just lightly preloading it, you could bend the shift fork or something, but you'd really have to put some effort into it. Just remember that if it isn't shifting, it's because you're not working the throttle correctly, not because you're going too lightly on the shift lever. It has to sort of slip into gear by itself.
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Oct 22, 2010 14:06
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infraboy posted:Should I just order another battery for it? Yes, and check your alternator output with a voltmeter while you're at it. The alternator itself probably won't be the problem on your bike, but the voltage regulator might. infraboy posted:It's one of those pesky batteries you have to fill with acid yourself and charge it. No, you should ask for a closed cell maintenance-free battery. It's available for your bike. Here4DaGangBang posted:So how much chance is there that one would gently caress their transmission doing this? In general I mean. There's a pretty good chance of gearbox and clutch damage, until you learn to change gear. Your chain and gear transmission won't notice anything though. KozmoNaut posted:If you try and force the gear lever If you're trying to force your gear lever, you're really just murdering shift forks. It won't change your transmission rate much. but it'll empty your wallet pretty fast. Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Oct 22, 2010 |
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Oct 22, 2010 14:43
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I dont get peoples obsession with clutchlessly shifting on the street.
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Oct 22, 2010 14:57
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Phat_Albert posted:I dont get peoples obsession with clutchlessly shifting on the street. If you can't ride your bike clutch-less, you probably hate it. Purchase a new bike you really like.
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Oct 22, 2010 15:01
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Phat_Albert posted:I dont get peoples obsession with clutchlessly shifting on the street. It's a good way to almost-12 a 1000 
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Oct 22, 2010 17:29
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Where would be the best place to find a negative battery cable? I need one that's about 8cm long and has round terminals at either end that you can stick bolts through. I'll go to my KTM dealer if I have to but that's an hour away and it seems like the kind of thing a Radio Shack might carry. Right now I just combined some 18 gauge wire together and stripped the ends and tied them to the battery and the ground point.
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Oct 22, 2010 18:21
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Blaster of Justice posted:
Had to actually look around a bit, but apparently they DO make them for the GS. Thanks! http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/motorcycle/sYT10L-A2.html
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Oct 23, 2010 01:44
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What's the argument against reusing a countershaft sprocket lockwasher?
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Oct 23, 2010 01:55
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Phy posted:What's the argument against reusing a countershaft sprocket lockwasher? Higher chance of it failing. gently caress it though, the ones on the DRZ fail all the goddamn time anyways. Phat_Albert posted:I dont get peoples obsession with clutchlessly shifting on the street. It's fun! Also wheelies.
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Oct 23, 2010 01:56
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How's it going to fail, though? It's got five sides I haven't bent down yet, two of which wouldn't even cross the previously bent portion, so it's not like it's got a lot of metal fatigue
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Oct 23, 2010 02:27
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It wont fail, it doesnt take much to keep the nut from backing off. If the already bent side is still in good shape I've rebent them, other than that, like you said its got 5 more sides.
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Oct 23, 2010 03:34
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I am an idiot. Ignore me.
Loucks fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Oct 23, 2010 |
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Oct 23, 2010 20:31
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There's a bike I'm looking at purchasing. It's hits everything on my checklist - never dropped, exact bike/color combo I'm looking for, local, great price and the seller seems like he'll be pretty easy to work with. The problem is the seller added a some aftermarket mini ape handle bars, either 12 or 16". Not my style at all. At first I thought I could just swap them out for something else, but then I got to thinking about cable length and realized they'd probably have to be swapped. How involved would that be? Or would the cable have to be swapped? I'd be dropping the controls about 8 to 12", but also sweeping them back a few inches. The bikes a sportster, and from what I've read redoing cables is a huge pain in the butt.
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Oct 23, 2010 22:48
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zaha posted:There's a bike I'm looking at purchasing. It's hits everything on my checklist - never dropped, exact bike/color combo I'm looking for, local, great price and the seller seems like he'll be pretty easy to work with. The problem is the seller added a some aftermarket mini ape handle bars, either 12 or 16". Not my style at all.
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Oct 23, 2010 23:40
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There should be stock cables all over the place for a sportster. Depending on the routing, it might be 20 minutes, it might be more involved. But that definitely wouldn't stop me from buying it.
Z3n fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Oct 24, 2010 |
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Oct 24, 2010 00:03
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Z3n posted:There should be stock cables all over the place for a sportster. Depending on the routing, it might be 20 minutes, it might be more involved. But that definitely wouldn't stop me from buying it. Thanks Z3n and Endless Mike. I didn't think it would be that big of deal either, but the sportster forums I'm reading have people getting quoted six to eight hours of shop time. The guys going from a lower bar to a higher bar need to remove the rear wheel, which I think might be for the electrical wiring. Zip tying the electrical should be okay, and if I can do the same with the throttle/break/clutch I'll probably go that route. Not sure if they would be easy to kink, or be a worry from a safety standpoint. The crappy pics on craigslist make it look like there's a lot of slack in the cables. 
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Oct 25, 2010 02:05
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Getting occasional clunks and vibrations from the front end whilst braking. Seems to be that I'll get it when I brake hard once, then not again (not 100% on this though). Head bearings?
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Oct 25, 2010 03:45
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Are your triple trees and forks screwed in nice and tight? That seems to be going around lately.
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Oct 25, 2010 04:31
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Spiffness posted:Are your triple trees and forks screwed in nice and tight? That seems to be going around lately. They all seem to be tight. I just took it for a ride, the vibrations seem to be coming from the wheel, but I don't think it's warped rotors, as I can't feel any pulsing through the brake lever, but just an odd vibe when I get on them hard, coming on as the bike slows. Wheel bearing? 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Oct 25, 2010 |
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Oct 25, 2010 05:05
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At this point you need to tear it down and spec everything. Check the wheel bearings, steering head, suspension travel/settings, etc.
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Oct 25, 2010 05:18
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That sounds like some awesome fun for you, 2ndclasscitizen!
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Oct 25, 2010 06:54
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poo poo.
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Oct 25, 2010 11:16
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2ndclasscitizen posted:poo poo. That sounds like the head bearings to me. It should be pretty obvious if the forks are loose in the triple clamps, caliper mounting bolts are spinning merrily in the breeze or the wheel bearing/spacer missing.
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Oct 25, 2010 13:29
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Hey, not exactly a moto question, but my 1984 Honda 200ES 3-wheeler always wants to turn left. As in, if I let go of the handlebars, it will turn left on it's own. If it had a big enough parking lot it would do a complete circle. It's annoying because it puts a lot of strain on my arm when riding it. What could cause this? The steering head nut is tight, there's no vertical movement, but I'm thinking the bearings might be pooped which is causing it to constantly get pushed over? Is there anything else that could cause it?
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Oct 26, 2010 01:49
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Does a three-wheeler need any sort of rear alignment, or is it just like two wheels on an axle?
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Oct 26, 2010 02:05
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Do the handlebars turn, or does it drift left with the front wheel pointing forward?
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Oct 26, 2010 02:22
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mr.belowaverage posted:Do the handlebars turn, or does it drift left with the front wheel pointing forward? The handlebar and front wheel definitely turns. Holding the handlebars straight puts strain on my arms. I've also replaced the whole wheel/tire and it's the same.
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Oct 26, 2010 02:30
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Spiffness posted:Are your triple trees and forks screwed in nice and tight? That seems to be going around lately. I don't think it's contagious, but you better check your bikes just the same.
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Oct 26, 2010 02:40
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MrZig posted:Hey, not exactly a moto question, but my 1984 Honda 200ES 3-wheeler always wants to turn left. As in, if I let go of the handlebars, it will turn left on it's own. If it had a big enough parking lot it would do a complete circle. It's annoying because it puts a lot of strain on my arm when riding it. What could cause this? The steering head nut is tight, there's no vertical movement, but I'm thinking the bearings might be pooped which is causing it to constantly get pushed over? Are the rear tires the same brand/size? Are they inflated to the same PSI?
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Oct 26, 2010 16:08
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MrZig posted:Holding the handlebars straight puts strain on my arms. I've also replaced the whole wheel/tire and it's the same. Does one of your rear wheels heat up really fast? Bearings or brakes, maybe?
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Oct 26, 2010 18:46
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Anybody has a tutorial on how to change the oil on upside-down forks ? I'm completely lost with these things...
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Oct 27, 2010 03:04
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Primo Itch posted:Anybody has a tutorial on how to change the oil on upside-down forks ? I'm completely lost with these things... You do it upside down of course and refill with upside down oil. The caps should unscrew as usual, if you can't see the seam then raise the forks a bit. There should be a drain bolt at the bottom as well.
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Oct 28, 2010 04:44
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Blaster of Justice posted:Does one of your rear wheels heat up really fast? Bearings or brakes, maybe? Dunno, don't care. Why? Because I sold it today!  got $700 for it. My dad is buying a quad so I get his 85 250ES. Full suspension hells yeah.
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Oct 28, 2010 04:46
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This has been showing up on Criagslist for the last several weeks. I'm pretty sure it's the same dealer I bought my Warrior from, and they're pretty good. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/mcy/2021193185.html The pic looks like the chain is rusted to hell, but assuming everything's good otherwise, am I nuts for considering offering to trade my Gladius for it?
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Oct 28, 2010 05:09
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MotoMind posted:There should be a drain bolt at the bottom as well. I've only ever had a drain bolt on my BMW, all my other bikes required turning the tube upside down to drain.
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Oct 28, 2010 06:46
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chryst posted:This has been showing up on Criagslist for the last several weeks. I'm pretty sure it's the same dealer I bought my Warrior from, and they're pretty good.
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Oct 28, 2010 12:02
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