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JP Money posted:That's pretty lame compared to:
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Nov 7, 2010 06:04
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Well folks, its that time of year again. Going to pack the bike away for the year and then some as I am headed to Aussie land for several months. Just wondering what the popular storage trends are. I have indoor storage for my '86 suzuki katana and was thinking of doing the seafoam, full tank, carbs run dry and lubed like a fetishist. Is this still the going method or...? Thanks!
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Nov 8, 2010 16:57
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I will shortly be moving from New York to (most likely) California. Two months ago, I bought an old Suzuki motorcycle. It's not registered in NY, I've just got the title (I'm going to register it in CA when I get there). What do I need to do to legally get things moved over? I assume I'll need a CA title once I'm there? Any advice would be great, I've never had to transfer titles/registrations before (lived in WA my whole life, car is still registered there, etc).
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Nov 8, 2010 18:10
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You've got a few options: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr9.htm This is one saving grace of the CA DMV. They're expensive, and they're slow, but they have moved as much into the 21st century as a government institution reasonable could be expected to. You can renew online, submit release of liabilities online, etc. Also, if you have AAA, you can just bring the paperwork to their office and they'll sort it all out for you 
Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Nov 8, 2010 |
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Nov 8, 2010 18:22
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Z3n posted:You've got a few options: Well, that doesn't sound too bad. I assume I don't have to fill out "Declaration of Gross Vehicle Weight/Combined Gross Vehicle Weight (REG 4008) (PDF) form for commercial motor vehicles (pickups with unladen weight of 8,000 lbs. or less are exempt from this requirement)" (it's not a commercial vehicle, right?) or "Permanent Trailer Identification (PTI) Application Certification (REG 4017) (PDF)." because a trailer is not involved here. I am wondering about item #3, "Last issued registration certificate or renewal notice for the current year or a letter from the last registration jurisdiction verifying the registration period." I personally have never had this bike registered, and in fact the registration expired something like 6 months ago. Do I want to go with "a letter from the last registration jurisdiction"? Do I just call the NYS DMV and ask them to issue me such a letter for the vehicle with VIN xyz?
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Nov 8, 2010 18:35
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well, that doesn't sound too bad. I assume I don't have to fill out "Declaration of Gross Vehicle Weight/Combined Gross Vehicle Weight (REG 4008) (PDF) form for commercial motor vehicles (pickups with unladen weight of 8,000 lbs. or less are exempt from this requirement)" (it's not a commercial vehicle, right?) or "Permanent Trailer Identification (PTI) Application Certification (REG 4017) (PDF)." because a trailer is not involved here. Do you have the last issued registration certificate? Or do you have a form that requests renewal for that bike with the appropriate dates? I'm pretty sure it's so that they can make sure the registration dates match up between NY and CA, although I'm not sure why it matters. And no, you wouldn't have to fill out a 4008, or a 4017.
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Nov 8, 2010 19:18
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Z3n posted:Do you have the last issued registration certificate? Or do you have a form that requests renewal for that bike with the appropriate dates? I'm pretty sure it's so that they can make sure the registration dates match up between NY and CA, although I'm not sure why it matters. No, I don't have such a thing... I could try contacting the PO, although he's kind of dumb (judging by what he did to the bike) and see if he can dig up the last registration certificate.
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Nov 8, 2010 20:27
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Pham Nuwen posted:No, I don't have such a thing... I could try contacting the PO, although he's kind of dumb (judging by what he did to the bike) and see if he can dig up the last registration certificate. You could also see if NY will issue you a notice to renew the registration on the bike if the PO has gone underground.
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Nov 8, 2010 21:18
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You'll probably have to bring the bike with you so they can have a look at the engine and VIN numbers. I had to do that with both my bike and pickup when I moved. As far as prior registration goes, AAA didn't ask me at all. My bike was out by a few months but they didn't ask or care. Just do it pretty quickly when you get here. They are shits about unregistered vehicles being in the state.
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Nov 9, 2010 19:32
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Bugdrvr posted:You'll probably have to bring the bike with you so they can have a look at the engine and VIN numbers. I had to do that with both my bike and pickup when I moved. As far as prior registration goes, AAA didn't ask me at all. My bike was out by a few months but they didn't ask or care. Just do it pretty quickly when you get here. They are shits about unregistered vehicles being in the state. I don't have my license yet, and I don't have a trailer to haul the bike to the DMV (I will be shipping my bike out there when I move). The bike is also no longer registered with NY and does not have plates, so I couldn't even get somebody to ride it over for me. Suggestions? Do I just try and find somebody with a truck or trailer that I could use to haul the bike to the DMV?
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Nov 9, 2010 19:57
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Pham Nuwen posted:I don't have my license yet, and I don't have a trailer to haul the bike to the DMV (I will be shipping my bike out there when I move). The bike is also no longer registered with NY and does not have plates, so I couldn't even get somebody to ride it over for me. I just called the California DMV, they said the Highway Patrol can come check the bike's information for me, which should pretty much solve my problems. I'll also have to get a smog check, which I've never had to do for any vehicle... there seem to be a lot of shops that'll do it in town, so I could probably walk my bike to one. Alternately, I wonder if I could get a waiver or something that would let me register my bike and come back with my smog test in a few days. Edit: Should have googled it, motorcycles are exempt from smog checks in California 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Nov 9, 2010 |
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Nov 9, 2010 20:15
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Pham Nuwen posted:
It's the best thing ever. Didn't see it posted, but if it's a 49 state bike it needs to have at least 7500 miles on it for it to be registered in CA, if it's a 50 state bike then it wont matter. It's funny that CA bikes are required to have emissions crap but they can be removed relatively easily and you never have to smog it so it never gets checked anyways. Welcome to California! Were hosed up kinda but we still have the best roads to ride on + weather. I still find it odd someone would store their bike for winter for months at a time, unless it's pouring rain and flooding i'm riding every day.
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Nov 9, 2010 22:02
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infraboy posted:It's the best thing ever. It's a 1982 bike with 25k on it, so I'm probably good. What kind of gear do you California goons ride with? I've got a cruiser, so I'm not looking at logo-tastic neon textiles, but I'm concerned that the summer heat of Livermore would put regular leathers out of the question. Perforated leather? In the winter, I'm sure regular leather will be fine (I wore a non-motorcycle leather jacket all winter when I was interning down there, kept me at just the right temp).
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Nov 9, 2010 22:26
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I have fieldsheer perforated leather jacket and pants, I have some fieldsheer lighter vented leather gloves for warmer days and polar gloves for colder days, works pretty well for me. I have an Alpinestars SMK jacket and some Cortech mod denim jeans for more casual affairs. I'm thinking of a mesh/textile jacket but since it' getting pretty cold out I haven't bothered yet, I never really had too many issues with perforated leather in warmer weather though. I have to commute to the city which is often considerably cooler than the surrounding area.
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Nov 9, 2010 22:31
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infraboy posted:I have fieldsheer perforated leather jacket and pants, I have some fieldsheer lighter vented leather gloves for warmer days and polar gloves for colder days, works pretty well for me. Yeah, that's an annoying thing, when it's 110 F in Livermore, it's a lovely 75 degrees in S.F. I'll look into perforated leather. Are the pants big enough to go over a regular pair of jeans/cargo pants without trouble?
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Nov 9, 2010 22:37
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Pham Nuwen posted:Yeah, that's an annoying thing, when it's 110 F in Livermore, it's a lovely 75 degrees in S.F. If you want to wear jeans maybe just go straight up for some riding jeans with kevlar/leather reinforcement and knee pads. I'm happy with my Cortechs http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/1/40/10289/ITEM/Cortech-Mod-Denim-Pants.aspx Comes with Knee pads, and leather reinforced butte/hip knee area, they're pretty comfy. If you want mesh this seems pretty nice and well priced. Comes in many colors if you don't want to be all bright. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/1/39/20195/CITEM/Fieldsheer-High-Flow-II-Mesh-Jacket-Closeouts.aspx
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Nov 9, 2010 22:47
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Pham Nuwen posted:What kind of gear do you California goons ride with? I've got a cruiser, so I'm not looking at logo-tastic neon textiles, but I'm concerned that the summer heat of Livermore would put regular leathers out of the question. Perforated leather? In the winter, I'm sure regular leather will be fine (I wore a non-motorcycle leather jacket all winter when I was interning down there, kept me at just the right temp). When it's really, really hot I have a Joe Rocket mesh jacket, but I feel like an idiot wearing it. The jacket is ok in the summer because it has vents and it works in the winter because it has a 'waterproof' liner. Going out to ride for fun I wear my track gear though. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Nov 9, 2010 |
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Nov 9, 2010 22:58
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Pham Nuwen posted:Yeah, that's an annoying thing, when it's 110 F in Livermore, it's a lovely 75 degrees in S.F. My mesh pants easily slip over a normal pair of jeans, they make them to do that with fancy ankle-widening zippers and everything. I have that and a textile jacket, and when you are moving it's fine but sweltering if you're stuck with no airflow for any time. It's easy to find nonflashy mesh or textile pants, many are just flat black. And sometimes you just get stuck with logotastic poo poo, if it's the best. I hate hate hate flashy poo poo, but I wear an ICON textile because they run long in the arms and skinny in the waist, and I'm both. Other jackets hang off me in the middle if they're long enough for my arms, so I'm stuck looking like a jack-rear end with ICON in big white letters on my front and shiny backplates with "TITANIUM PROTECTION" all around. On that note, if anyone knows other brands good for long armed skinny people I'd love to hear it, I'll be in the market for new gear soon. Safety first....sigh. It's lovely cause people make their assumptions based on that. "Dude do a wheelie!!" (never done one intentionally, not interested in learning on my pretty 600) and "Dude how fast have you gone 160!?!" (Not even close, gently caress that poo poo the fun is turning and acceleration, my fastest top speed is in a car) Edit: to include my beautiful jacket, I forgot about "ANATOMICAL ARMOR"  Click here for the full 1632x1224 image. It's cool looking, right? Right guys? 
nsaP fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Nov 9, 2010 |
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Nov 9, 2010 23:00
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Does anyone know where i can get Smoke shields for a Simpson Avenger helmet? I tried there website but apparently they're not making them anymore and every other place I've looked only has clear. I don't know if it'll help at all but the number code for Avenger shields is 87020.
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Nov 9, 2010 23:09
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I ride with a tourmaster mesh jacket with both liners removed day and night. At the coldest here in LA it gets maybe 55 degrees, so it feels amazing. For pants, it's just jeans.. :squid:
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Nov 9, 2010 23:29
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Question 1: I went far too long and finally changed the nasty black oil in my 1980 CB750F. It had a slight leak where the shifter enters the transmission and would weep about a drop of oil every time it was parked for a while. It also had a slight leak around where the clutch cable enters the engine casing, and where the tachometer cable enters the valve cover at the very top of the engine. Since I changed the oil the leak at the shifter has gotten probably 2-3 times worse, but the other ones seem static. Why would changing the oil make a leak get worse, shouldn't new oil be thicker and thus leak less? Question 2:  Click here for the full 1296x968 image. I put 20w-50 Valvoline motorcycle oil in my bike, but apparently it recommends 10-40? I also saw this tag and filled up with 91 octane instead of 87 the last 2 tanks. Now my bike seems down on power. Was octane calculated a different way 30 years ago? Am I imagining things? Should I be getting premium or regular? Question 3: I bought the bike with crooked handlebars, this was caused by bent fork tubes. I rotated the fork tubes in the trees until the bars were straight, but that made cornering feel like the bike was binding due to crooked tubes. I now have a new set of tubes installed that are straight, but now my bars are crooked again, albeit not nearly as crooked as before. With straight tubes, the only remaining culprits are bent triple tree and a bent frame right? I have another tree I'm going to swap soon, and if that doesn't work is it the frame that's bent, and is that a lost cause on a 30yo bike?
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Nov 10, 2010 00:33
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Rontalvos posted:Question 1: I went far too long and finally changed the nasty black oil in my 1980 CB750F. It had a slight leak where the shifter enters the transmission and would weep about a drop of oil every time it was parked for a while. It also had a slight leak around where the clutch cable enters the engine casing, and where the tachometer cable enters the valve cover at the very top of the engine. Question 1: Old oil could have been a lot thicker, you could have knocked some gunk that was blocking it up loose, there's a couple of reasons why it could happen. Question 2: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Difference_between_RON_and_AKI You need to be running 87. It's not going to run right on 91. The US doesn't use RON to measure octane, we use AKI, so 87 is the right fuel for the bike. Question 3: Your triples are probably tweaked. The thing about old bikes is that fixing them is often labor intensive, and rarely hugely expensive, there are a lot of spares out there for cheap. But a bent frame won't translate to tweaked forks in the triples. Only bent triples or forks will do that. Replace the triples and see how it handles then.
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Nov 10, 2010 01:35
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Z3n covered the gas, but missed the oil. 10W40 will be thinner at a given cold temperature than 20W50, so if you're running in cold weather (and we're talking below freezing), it could be an issue. EDIT: But only while the oil itself is that temperature, which it isn't at operating temps, obviously, but you should be careful. Endless Mike fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 01:38
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Endless Mike posted:Z3n covered the gas, but missed the oil. 10W40 will be thinner at a given cold temperature than 20W50, so if you're running in cold weather (and we're talking below freezing), it could be an issue. He put 20w50 in it, it's supposed to take 10w40. Unless the guy before him was running 60w or something, it's unlikely that that's the problem. I suppose I could have been more clear about my complete and utter hatred of POs and questionable oil/valve checks/maintenance. 
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Nov 10, 2010 01:45
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I bought a and I'm going to get it on Saturday. I live in the north suburbs of Chicago, IL. I've done some looking online and can't find a straight answer for what I will need in regards to getting a license for a motorcycle. I know that I need to get a motorcycle license, and it doesn't seem like something that I can just go to the DMV and take a driving test for, similar to a regular driver's license. Of course I can't find a DMV website that isn't non affiliated and can give me a straight answer. The closest I've found is that I will have to get a learner's permit for 3 months, ride with that, and then get my regular license, but then I found this site that offers a motorcycle training class and then lets me get my license pretty close to soon after Motorcycle riding school. From what I've seen I am finding two different answers, and I figured that I would have better luck asking on here and hoping that someone lives in Illinois and has done this (hopefully somewhat recently). I just want to be able to ride my bike as soon as the weather gets warmer without realizing that I forgot one step in my quest for a motorcycle license. I looked and didn't see a thread for general QA, but if I need to ask this in another thread, please point me in that direction. americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 08:01
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americanzero4128 posted:I bought the motorcycle and I'm going to get it on Saturday. I live in the north suburbs of Chicago, IL. I've done some looking online and can't find a straight answer for what I will need in regards to getting a license for a motorcycle. I know that I need to get a motorcycle license, and it doesn't seem like something that I can just go to the DMV and take a driving test for, similar to a regular driver's license. Of course I can't find a DMV website that isn't non affiliated and can give me a straight answer. The closest I've found is that I will have to get a learner's permit for 3 months, ride with that, and then get my regular license, but then I found this site that offers a motorcycle training class and then lets me get my license pretty close to soon after Motorcycle riding school. You can go in and take a written test to get a permit. You can go in and take written and practical tests to get a license. There's no need to have a permit for x months. Approved classes will get you out of having to take these tests. I'm not sure if Ride Chicago is approved (the site does not load for me). After I took my class, I got my certificate that day, walked into the DMV the next, and walked out with an "M" license. Some places that offer classes are not approved. For example, there's some Harley dealerships that offer classes, but then you still have to go to the DMV to pass their tests. You should check out the MSF site for RiderCourse locations: http://nm.msf-usa.org/msf/ridercourses.aspx?state=IL (This page didn't exist when I took my course, but it seems like a list of approved instructors in the state.) Also, you can take a course directly from the MSF. It's the best $20 you'll spend. However, you'll have to wait until spring to register and classes fill up fast. Not ideal if you want to ride as soon as possible. Being in Northern Chicago, you'll want to look at either the UIUC (covers Cook County) or NIU (covers points just outside of Cook County) sites.
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Nov 10, 2010 08:33
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Ride Chicago doesn't say anything about being an MSF course, but they say they have on-site licensing tests, but it suggests that they're *not* during the basic class. It also says you need a permit to take the class. Kinda weird.
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Nov 10, 2010 13:17
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Rontalvos, the new oil has detergents that clean away the gunk that previously sealed the questionable gaskets. Now that the inside of the gaskets are cleaner, they will be easier for you to replace. edit to clarify: the old oil had detergents too, but obviously they stop deterging after a while. Ola fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 13:45
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Ola posted:deterging Best mechanical word I've seen in a while.
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Nov 10, 2010 16:04
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If you have detergive issues you obviously look for which detergent can best detergize your undeterged....hmmm...tergs. 
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Nov 10, 2010 16:26
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Here I am posting on SA instead of being in class because my bike's being a bitch. 2001 SV-650. The backstory is that MY GIRLFRIEND and I took a trip back home for about a week, and when we came back I was worried the bike might not start. It did, though, and I ended up riding it to and from work without much trouble. I gassed it up on the way home that night. Then the next morning I started it up, began to roll out, and as I rolled on the throttle the engine sputtered and died. The battery was too weak to start it up again, so I figured I didn't wait long enough with the choke open and the battery was weak, so I threw the battery on the charger. Today I put the battery in, let the bike idle for a good 2-3 minutes while I put my gear on. It was idling around 4K RPMs by the time I closed the throttle and backed out, but as soon as I rolled on the throttle, the engine died again. Successive testing showed that with the choke closed, I could only rev to around 3K RPMs in neutral (less in gear) before the engine would sputter and die, and with the choke open it would rev to about 5.5K or so. What's the most likely culprit here? Fuel filter? I hope it's something I can fix myself, I can't afford any repairs right now 
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Nov 10, 2010 16:53
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Do you have a multimeter? Check the voltage at the battery, you probably need at least a new battery, and most likely your regulator/rectifier or stator is fried. Luckily, both of these are relatively simple repairs.
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Nov 10, 2010 18:24
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Yep fix the battery and check the charging system first. Once you know that's good you can move to diagnosing any further fueling problems if there are any, but it will be difficult to track stuff down while your battery's still bad.
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Nov 10, 2010 18:29
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Really? Weird, I didn't know the battery or r/r could cause a problem like that. Hopefully it's the r/r, because that'll be a lot cheaper.
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Nov 10, 2010 21:22
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Ola posted:Rontalvos, the new oil has detergents that clean away the gunk that previously sealed the questionable gaskets. Now that the inside of the gaskets are cleaner, they will be easier for you to replace. How much of a pain in the rear end is it going to be to replace the shifter gasket and the clutch gasket? I feel like it's going to be awful. I think I also have a leak around the cam chain adjuster but I'm not sure how that's possible. Edit: /\/\/\/\----- Like people have said, bikes do weird poo poo with dead batteries and it'll be impossible to diagnose running problems without knowing your power system works fine.
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Nov 10, 2010 21:27
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Rontalvos posted:How much of a pain in the rear end is it going to be to replace the shifter gasket and the clutch gasket? I feel like it's going to be awful. It's pretty easy, unfortunately you'll have to drain the oil, or just have an oil pan ready to catch the stuff that falls out when you open up the cover. If you're referring to the cam chain tensioner theres usually a gasket between that and the engine block, manuals usually recommend replacing it everytime the tensioner is removed, which can happen for some maintenance.
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Nov 10, 2010 21:29
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:Really? Weird, I didn't know the battery or r/r could cause a problem like that. Yeah, bikes rely on the battery to create spark, and if your charging system and/or battery is dead or screwed up enough it'll cause really, really weird issues. Start with the battery, and we'll go from there. What is it's voltage when it's just sitting, and what is the voltage with the bike running and reved up to about 5k RPM?
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Nov 10, 2010 21:51
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Rontalvos posted:How much of a pain in the rear end is it going to be to replace the shifter gasket and the clutch gasket? I feel like it's going to be awful. Cam chain adjuster leak is perfectly plausible, plenty of splashing oil right behind it. Clutch cable gasket and tach gear gasket should be easy. Shifter seal might be difficult, all depends on how much you have to remove to get it out. Do you have the service manual? See if you find it by googling and read through it carefully before you start taking things apart.
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Nov 10, 2010 22:14
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What do dirty carbs feel like while riding? Something is up with my bike's aspiration, and while it's a bit early for a new air filter I'll check that before I delve into the arcane black box of mysteries that is my bike's carbs. Symptoms are sluggishness, uneven acceleration when under load, and lower RPM than typical for throttle position. Idle speed is normal.
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Nov 11, 2010 00:51
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I had my DR650 apart to replace the clutch, back tire, and do some carb work. I put in new EBC clutch plates, Barnett springs, I cut 3 coils off the CV spring, riched the needle one clip position and took the snorkel out. Then I tuned the pilot needle to a half turn past where too lean made the idle drop. Starts on the second kick, runs great. EXCEPT Now for some reason it has this crazy amount of vibration running through the bike. When I rev it, the vibes physically shake the bike around. When I'm riding it, the vibes are enough to drive me crazy. This happend two days ago, and I noticed after riding it around that the vibes went back to their original self. Noticable, but not nearly as bad. I thought it fixed itself. Today I started it up and the insane amount of vibrations are back. I took it for a spin up and down the road, got it all warmed up and the vibes are still there. What would cause the engine to vibrate like this? I was thinking a loose balancer chain or engine mount, but to suddenly stop vibrating is really weird.
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Nov 11, 2010 02:59
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