|
Phone posted:Except when it's a torsen and one of your wheels is on ice. Miata season never ends. 
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2010 16:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 12:56 |
|
|
So you're telling me that the Torsen doesn't operate as an open when there is 0 friction on one wheel and friction on the other? I had one tire on dry pavement and the other on ice, and I couldn't get it out of the driveway on Falken Zeix ZE-912s when my town got hit by a snowstorm earlier in the year?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2010 17:14
|
|
|
A tire on ice isn't zero friction. A tire in the air is zero friction. I didn't say "zero friction" anyway, I said "they need traction, but they don't need much." Don't know why you couldn't get out of your driveway, but I had no problems in the first couple snows of this year on my bald as poo poo Falkens.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2010 17:22
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:A tire on ice isn't zero friction. A tire in the air is zero friction. I didn't say "zero friction" anyway, I said "they need traction, but they don't need much." Nah. Ice can be slick enough that it's 0 friction. I've had a wheel spin up that way too. Just pull the handbrake a bit to add friction to the free wheeling tire and your good to go.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2010 17:55
|
|
|
Ziploc posted:Nah. Ice can be slick enough that it's 0 friction. I've had a wheel spin up that way too. Just pull the handbrake a bit to add friction to the free wheeling tire and your good to go. wha? coefficient of friction between rubber & ice is ~0.15. It'd need to be zero to have zero friction. Teflon on Teflon is ~0.04. You're not going to have zero friction, it just might not be enough to have the torsen kick in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2010 18:12
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:wha? coefficient of friction between rubber & ice is ~0.15. It'd need to be zero to have zero friction. Teflon on Teflon is ~0.04. You're not going to have zero friction, it just might not be enough to have the torsen kick in. It will kick in but it only acts as a torque multiplier. If you can get 1ft*lb of usable torque out of the wheel on ice you'll have 2.5ft*lbs on the other wheel. Torsen diffs never "lock." Oh god I spun one wheel this morning leaving my development with a torsen, unpossible! (It's sharply off camber and it's very easy to unload the inside wheel almost completely without being aggressive at all.)
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2010 18:17
|
|
|
Well that's only part of how it works. The gears inside the diff are made in such a way as to "bind up" when they turn at different speeds. As the two wheels start to spin at different rates, the gears will bind up more and more increasing the amount of torque difference allowed between the tires. When you spun that wheel it wasn't the open-diff "one-legged burnout," I'm betting it was the "hop-hop-hop" of the inside wheel accelerating and then biting and then accelerating again.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2010 18:40
|
|
|
Emilio has chops (repost from miataturbo): http://autoeclectic.com/trackhq
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 02:38
|
|
|
What does it mean when the electric fan is constantly kicking on and off (once every five seconds or so). My guess is coolant temp sensor, but not sure. Is there a way I can bypass it until we get the new parts?
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 22:01
|
|
|
Is your AC on?
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 01:47
|
|
|
Could simply be your car rising above and below 208 degrees, in which case that's "normal", if not annoying. Your thermostat might be dying in an unusual way, by closing too rapidly. But that's just a guess... If it's doing it at idle (which I assume is the only way you were checking that) 208 is a little high for wintertime but not really out of specifications at all.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 03:07
|
|
|
Also does anyone have a driveway like this (stolen from GIS) gently caress these. I'm not even that low, 12.5ish hub to fender. Put on a new lip and I scape the gently caress out of it every time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 03:43
|
|
|
Yeah, I have one too. Scrape the MS3 on it almost every drat time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 04:00
|
|
|
Having a weird issue with my tach. At highway speeds it will stick sometimes for a few seconds. I'll be cruising at 75ish, take my foot off the gas, speed will drop 5-7 mph but the tach stays at the same rpm for a couple of seconds then quickly jump down to where it's suppose to be. Is it the instrument cluster?
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 04:35
|
|
|
What year car. I have the same style driveway. If I had a r-package lip it would scrape. 12.25" front.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 05:10
|
|
|
Russian Bear posted:Having a weird issue with my tach. At highway speeds it will stick sometimes for a few seconds. I'll be cruising at 75ish, take my foot off the gas, speed will drop 5-7 mph but the tach stays at the same rpm for a couple of seconds then quickly jump down to where it's suppose to be. Is it the instrument cluster? What year
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 05:51
|
|
|
It's a 94, oops forgot to put that in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 07:31
|
|
|
Tach is ran off of the coilpack.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 07:34
|
|
|
Piano posted:Also does anyone have a driveway like this (stolen from GIS) put a 2x4 piece in the gutter part
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 07:40
|
|
|
Some NCs in the speedhunters article today.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 08:39
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Is your AC on? AC is not on. Neither is heater. It's not just kicking on/off rapidly at idle but it's definitely most noticeable at idle. Piano posted:Could simply be your car rising above and below 208 degrees, in which case that's "normal", if not annoying. Your thermostat might be dying in an unusual way, by closing too rapidly. But that's just a guess... There's no way this is normal, it just started and it hasn't done it before. It's a Mazdaspeed so 208 in winter is probably not too far out. Those cars run very hot normally. I'm going to replace the coolant temp sensor as it's only 10 bucks. If that doesn't do it I'll probably replace the thermostat. Make sense? Bonus pic: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 15:44
|
|
|
I bet it's the thermostat. Be sure to get one from Mazda as some people have had problems with aftermarket ones.Russian Bear posted:It's a 94, oops forgot to put that in. Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Nov 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 17:20
|
|
|
Is there a nice exhaust tip that you guys are using on the NAs/NBs? I've started to notice that pretty much every car out there now has chrome exhaust tip(s) and the Miata doesn't. I want something cheap and tasteful, maybe in a 3" diameter (the Miata stock exhaust is 2.25").
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 18:06
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Bonus pic: How much boost does a stock MSM make? Seems like that intercooler might as well not even be there, considering how tiny it is...
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 20:51
|
|
|
Geoj posted:How much boost does a stock MSM make? Seems like that intercooler might as well not even be there, considering how tiny it is... Not much. The boost kicks in around 4k and the redline is 6.5k. It tops out in second gear around 47mph. The intercooler is super small and if you're in the boost for any length of time, you wind up with some heatsoak issues.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 21:00
|
|
|
I'm looking into buying a Miata, my boss has one and he says they're impossible to break. Is that so?
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 21:41
|
|
|
Cloves posted:I'm looking into buying a Miata, my boss has one and he says they're impossible to break. Is that so? When I bought my car, I didn't know it had an oil leak. I was, however, familiar with lifter tick, and wasn't concerned when it made noise. I found out incidentally that I was down 3 quarts of oil.  The car still runs fine. Now I watch my oil level.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 21:52
|
|
|
Cloves posted:I'm looking into buying a Miata, my boss has one and he says they're impossible to break. Is that so? They're incredibly reliable, but also cheap and easy to fix when something does break. Just fix the common crap as maintenance and you're good to go.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 22:34
|
|
|
Mark Larson posted:Is there a nice exhaust tip that you guys are using on the NAs/NBs? I've started to notice that pretty much every car out there now has chrome exhaust tip(s) and the Miata doesn't. I want something cheap and tasteful, maybe in a 3" diameter (the Miata stock exhaust is 2.25"). Miatas all did from the factory. They just go bad if not kept clean.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 23:43
|
|
|
Heat soak has never been an issue, but that's more because of how we drive it. I'll probably get the DP upgrade, then DV valve, then new IC. I got a thermostat but I'm not sure it's the right part because the lady at the parts store was totally clueless. I asked for OEM and she gave me a non-OEM part and when I said MX-5 she started talking about BMWs. Anyways, why isn't there an equivalent to Realoem or bmwfans.info for Miatas? How in the hell do you guys find part numbers and diagrams and stuff?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 00:48
|
|
|
^^^ Mazdaspeed Motorsports is pretty good. http://www.mazdaspeeddevelopment.com/pages/cats/miatapubs.html Rosenthal Mazda also has an online parts store with a ton of pictures/parts numbers. If you autocross you can sign up for the parts program and there are some better diagrams/parts numbers there. http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=249 It's going to be Something-15-171. Not sure if the MSM uses the same thermostat as the regular Miata though. Cloves posted:I'm looking into buying a Miata, my boss has one and he says they're impossible to break. Is that so? Pretty much. Not sure about the latest body style but the older ones are very basic and extremely easy to work on. The motors run pretty much forever. I think rust is likely the biggest killer of them. The biggest thing to watch out for is the condition of the soft top. FatCow fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Nov 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 00:57
|
|
|
Thanks fatcow. Us cows gotta stick together.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 01:36
|
|
|
Things that kill miatas: 1. Crashes 2. Rust 3. Overheating 4. uhhh, the owner not having $500 to fix anything whatsoever?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 04:08
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:Well that's only part of how it works. The gears inside the diff are made in such a way as to "bind up" when they turn at different speeds. As the two wheels start to spin at different rates, the gears will bind up more and more increasing the amount of torque difference allowed between the tires. This is not at all how a Torsen works, just in case anyone was wondering. The difference in wheel speeds side to side has absolutely no effect whatsoever on the diff's ability to transfer torque. Savington fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Nov 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 12:21
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure that's how they work. Maybe I worded it wrong. http://members.rennlist.org/951_racerx/PS84Gleason.html quote:In the Torsen, as in any other differential, the power of the engine is transferred to the differential housing via the ring gear. The Torsen then uses pairs of worm wheels (from two to three pairs, depending an the size of the differential) mounted on the differential housing to turn the worm gears splined to the axle shafts. The left worm wheel of each pair turns the left axle shaft, and the right worm wheel of each pair turns the right axle shaft, Because the worm wheel cannot turn the worm gear, it locks on the gear and turns the axle shaft, propelling the vehicle forward. The right and left axle shafts (and right and left wheels) turn simultaneously. Each wheel then rotates at the same speed. The inside wheel can't freewheel like an open diff because it is locked into the traction side by the worm gears. Both sets of worm gears must accel/decel at the same rate or they seize up for a moment until they get back in sync. Also, I should add that Miatas have had two types of Torsens. 94 and 95s had the Type 1 Torsen and all Miatas from '96 on have the Type 2. The Type 1 biases towards more lock during acceleration and the Type 2 is slower to lock and actually requires one wheel to slip a bit before locking (more slack in the gears so it takes longer to bind), but more forgiving while also offering more lock under deceleration.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 17:49
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:The inside wheel can't freewheel like an open diff because it is locked into the traction side by the worm gears. 100% wrong. It is a well-known fact that Torsens act identically to open diffs if you get one wheel in the air. I have a steep driveway entrance and it's very easy to get a Torsen-equipped Miata stuck in the entry to the driveway because you weren't going fast enough and one tire picked up into the air. The only way to get a lowered Miata in/out is to get a run at it, so you aren't applying power in either direction until both tires are back on the ground. If you go slowly, it will find an equilibrium between the street and the driveway and you literally have to get out and push, or have someone sit on the tire that's in the air until it's back on the ground with sufficient force to transfer the torque to the other side. In addition, you can literally feel the inside rear tire of a Torsen-equipped car spin if you get it in the air a little going around a track - I felt this today at Infineon in turn 2 in our rental, which has a 4.30 Torsen. You also feel this exiting Cotton Corners/entering Grapevine at Buttonwillow CW. The Torsen is a good diff, but the amount of torque it transfers depends entirely on how much grip the inside tire has - if there's no grip (i.e. in the air or you've gotten it spinning from excessive power) it won't transfer any power. Savington fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Nov 21, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2010 03:21
|
|
|
Savington posted:100% wrong. It is a well-known fact that Torsens act identically to open diffs if you get one wheel in the air. I have a steep driveway entrance and it's very easy to get a Torsen-equipped Miata stuck in the entry to the driveway because you weren't going fast enough and one tire picked up into the air. The only way to get a lowered Miata in/out is to get a run at it, so you aren't applying power in either direction until both tires are back on the ground. If you go slowly, it will find an equilibrium between the street and the driveway and you literally have to get out and push, or have someone sit on the tire that's in the air until it's back on the ground with sufficient force to transfer the torque to the other side. Try the handbrake trick next time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2010 04:00
|
|
|
I didn't stop posting because I agreed. I stopped posting because he'll never stop. I could post video of me unloading the tire and spinning it and he'd still find some reason why it wasn't true.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2010 04:24
|
|
|
Ziploc posted:Try the handbrake trick next time. I thought about this while writing that, I will try it next time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 13:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 12:56 |
|
|
The venerable 4r70w in my gigantic, beige Lincoln is getting ready to poo poo out its innards any day now, so I've been casually eyeing a replacement car because pumping more money into a twelve year old, 140,000 mile car that gets gas mileage in the low teens is a bit silly. Plus, parking this seventeen foot barge is a ballache. I live in Miami, and have always had a bit of an itch for putting around topless. Would the Miata make a workable daily driver? My daily commute is an easy 10 mile round trip over surface streets, but with monthly 600-mile round trip highway jaunts to visit family. Is my girlfriend going to break up with me because we're going to have to wear earplugs any time we're going over 30 miles per hour? Will merging onto a busy highway with two people and the A/C on be an rear end in a top hat-puckering experience punctuated by prayer for divine intervention in getting up to 70? My SO has a four-door for when we need to carry more than two people, so in that sense it's not too much of a hassle. Help me out, goons?
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2010 20:54
|
|
