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EightBit posted:Yeah, they'll find that poo poo and come down on you if you don't spill it up front. They'll "come down on you" (call you) and tell you that they're increasing your premium to exactly what it would have been if you'd told them. There is no reason to mention violations that should be off your record. It's a computer algorithm that determines your risk, not some guy with a grudge against you.
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Dec 22, 2010 08:55
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Omegaslast posted:.... why not just order gt500 exhaust? I'm just curious what kind of gains can be had with just an axel back + canned tune. I'm in the market for an exhaust and I don't want it to be too loud, just a little deeper and meaner. The ford racing system looks pretty reasonably priced. Anyone have any experience?
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Dec 22, 2010 14:55
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kronix posted:I'm just curious what kind of gains can be had with just an axel back + canned tune. I'm in the market for an exhaust and I don't want it to be too loud, just a little deeper and meaner. The ford racing system looks pretty reasonably priced. In my experience you don't get much more than standard deviation from a cat-back exhaust. I can't imagine that just replacing the muffler, which is really all an axle back is, does anything other than lose a few pounds off the car. You don't buy an exhaust system for performance, you buy one because you like how it sounds. On the other hand, you can pick up huge gains with even a canned tune. Most reputable companies' canned tunes are worth anywhere from 20 to 50 horsepower. I picked up 35rwhp with an SCT tune. The most important thing to consider when buying a hand held tuner is what the tuners near you tune with. If your local place is a Diablosport shop you'd be best served by buying a Predator. I also recommend that you buy the tuner from a local tuner as it will cost you the same, but most places offer discounts on custom tunes, will tweak the tune for you to get it just right, or have already created their own canned tune and put it on the device. I don't have a recommendation for Diablosport, but VMP Tuning is the best SCT guy in the business. If you don't have a local tuner, I'd recommend ordering from him.
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Dec 22, 2010 20:06
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RockSmart posted:They'll "come down on you" (call you) and tell you that they're increasing your premium to exactly what it would have been if you'd told them. There is no reason to mention violations that should be off your record. And if you're dumb enough to volunteer information to them, they'll be happy to note that and use it to raise your rate. They're going to run a check anyway, why bother saying anything?
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Dec 22, 2010 22:08
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kronix posted:I'm just curious what kind of gains can be had with just an axel back + canned tune. I'm in the market for an exhaust and I don't want it to be too loud, just a little deeper and meaner. The ford racing system looks pretty reasonably priced. For what year mustang?
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Dec 23, 2010 01:15
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Omegaslast posted:For what year mustang? Thread history says 2011 GT, though I can't figure out if it's silver or blue.
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Dec 23, 2010 01:24
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kimbo305 posted:Thread history says 2011 GT, though I can't figure out if it's silver or blue. It's a kona blue 2011 GT. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to go full catback or if it didn't make a difference. I'm obviously looking to stay emissions legal. I was looking at frozenphils link I'm probably just going to start out with a tuner and a steeda CAI combo which looks like it should be good for about 40 HP on 93 octane. It'll probably have to wait till spring but we'll see how finances look after Christmas. Sorry for the crappy picture, I had to grab it off facebook because I'm too lazy to go find my phone. 
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Dec 23, 2010 04:18
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Is there something im missing about tunes on a new car? What guarantee is there that they wont find the ecu tune and immediately void your warranty.
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Dec 23, 2010 04:57
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Omegaslast posted:Is there something im missing about tunes on a new car? What guarantee is there that they wont find the ecu tune and immediately void your warranty. I don't know about Fords, but on some models, it's not that obvious unless the dealer really goes to a lot of trouble to see if the tune is factory or not. Plus many owners will reflash the original tune into the ECU if they know they car is going in for service.
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Dec 23, 2010 05:39
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Omegaslast posted:Is there something im missing about tunes on a new car? What guarantee is there that they wont find the ecu tune and immediately void your warranty. they can't actually void your entire warranty over that.
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Dec 23, 2010 10:17
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K-On! Season 2 posted:they can't actually void your entire warranty over that. Im aware of the magnuson moss warranty act. I guess i should have been more clear, i dont mean the entire warranty, i basically mean the engine, and possibly the transmission. They have to "prove" the ecu tune hosed something up yes but i cant see how that would be too difficult. "oh your transmissions busted? probably because of the ecu tune giving it too much power"
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Dec 23, 2010 10:47
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Omegaslast posted:Im aware of the magnuson moss warranty act. I guess i should have been more clear, i dont mean the entire warranty, i basically mean the engine, and possibly the transmission. They have to "prove" the ecu tune hosed something up yes but i cant see how that would be too difficult. "oh your transmissions busted? probably because of the ecu tune giving it too much power" Flash back and hope for the best. From what I understand it's impossible to know that it was flashed as a re-flash looks the same a disconnected battery. The only annoying part is some intakes will cause codes to get thrown so you'll have to remove that too. I've probably mentioned this before but I had a good friend who was a moderator on one of the WRX boards who had all sorts of bolt on junk and a custom tune. One day his engine blew up, so he put everything back to stock and thought he was ok. It looked like they were going to do the fix until one day they basically told him they wouldn't do the work under warranty. Turns on Suburu had done some research, found his car posted on the message board via the license plate and from there they were able to check his posting history. They showed him a detailed listing of all the modifications he made and pictures of him autox-ing the car and informed him that the work couldn't be done. They worked out a deal eventually but it cost him a lot more than free. Lesson here is you'll probably be ok but be careful what you post on the internet if you ever want to get warranty work done.
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Dec 23, 2010 15:30
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kronix posted:I've probably mentioned this before but I had a good friend who was a moderator on one of the WRX boards who had all sorts of bolt on junk and a custom tune. One day his engine blew up, so he put everything back to stock and thought he was ok. It looked like they were going to do the fix until one day they basically told him they wouldn't do the work under warranty. Turns on Suburu had done some research, found his car posted on the message board via the license plate and from there they were able to check his posting history. They showed him a detailed listing of all the modifications he made and pictures of him autox-ing the car and informed him that the work couldn't be done. They worked out a deal eventually but it cost him a lot more than free. I remember that since it was followed by the usual linking at 5004567457 other car forums around the net. Wasn't it some internet detectives that tipped off the dealer?
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Dec 24, 2010 02:01
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scapulataf posted:I remember that since it was followed by the usual linking at 5004567457 other car forums around the net. Wasn't it some internet detectives that tipped off the dealer? Well that would be a dick move to make.
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Dec 24, 2010 03:07
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goodfuldead posted:Well that would be a dick move to make. Welcome to The Internet.
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Dec 24, 2010 03:18
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scapulataf posted:I remember that since it was followed by the usual linking at 5004567457 other car forums around the net. Wasn't it some internet detectives that tipped off the dealer? I don't think we're talking about the same guy, his wasn't all over the internet as far as I know. I won't go into more details because of the internet detective factors but I'm reasonably sure he wasn't ratted out by anyone.
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Dec 24, 2010 05:47
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Oh man there is a really nice Kona Blue '11 GT I may go look at. I've been a GM guy for 15+ years but my anti-Ford bias is fading...fading... since everyone seems to like the 2010+ Mustang so much. Depending on how this works out, this could also develop into a chance for a fellow goon to pick up an '04 GTO with 34k miles for a pretty good price.
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Dec 27, 2010 06:44
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http://www.caranddriver.com/features/10q4/lightning_lap_2011-feature car and driver posted their new lightning lap times. The v6 stang finished quicker than the wrx sti, v6 genesis coupe r-spec, and last year's mustang GT. They were against the 114mph governer for more than 15 seconds/lap, and said without it, it would have bested the 370z's time.
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Dec 31, 2010 05:43
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Powershift posted:http://www.caranddriver.com/features/10q4/lightning_lap_2011-feature This really deserves its own thread. We haven't had a good benchracing thread since the last lightning lap came out, and I've got a lot of pent up energy. 
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Dec 31, 2010 06:34
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Ok, got a 2006 v6 that is leaking coolant. I can't find exactly the spot it's leaking from, but I believe it's from this area. Click here for the full 1296x968 image. Would that be the thermostat housing? I'm almost positive it is, but would rather ask than feel stupid after buying the parts. Also, any help in knowing exactly what I would need when replacing it? Any crucial parts I should replace while changing it? If you need reference, it's right under the air intake in the middle of the picture here.  Click here for the full 1296x968 image.
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Jan 4, 2011 23:17
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Sure is. You'll want to replace your thermostat, and you'll need new gaskets for the housing (I'd imagine the thermostat will come with them). It's waaay more likely you've got a fouled gasket than a messed up housing, for the record. I'd start there. e: while you're in there, inspect the hose below it for cracks. Replace it if it looks crappy, though that may not be the easiest job to do, I'm not certain.
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Jan 5, 2011 00:27
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Powershift posted:http://www.caranddriver.com/features/10q4/lightning_lap_2011-feature Goddamn the new V6 Stang is amazing, it puts my old 5.0 to shame. Great read, thanks for the heads up.
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Jan 5, 2011 00:33
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snugglebunny posted:Ok, got a 2006 v6 that is leaking coolant. I can't find exactly the spot it's leaking from, but I believe it's from this area. As MrSaturn said, yep. All you need is the thermostat gasket, but you might as well replace the thermostat while you're in there since they usually come with the gasket and cost about the same as buying the gasket by itself. Check for cracks around the housing, especially the lower half. It's not unheard of, though not common, for that plastic to deform and cause leaks. If it is you'll need a new lower intake manifold if you want to fix it, or just goop on some RTV if you don't. It's a few hundred for the part and a half day job if you need to replace it.
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Jan 5, 2011 00:56
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Thanks MrSaturn and frozenphil. I guess it's at straight forward to fix as it looks then? Just take off the part where the air intake is going to get under it? I was told I needed the whole upper and lower thermostat housing by someone (just the average I know all about cars guy  ), but I will just try the gasket first as it's a much cheaper fix.Also, any recommendation on thermostats? Looking at autozone they have a few different options at different temperatures. They are 160, 180 and 192 degrees. I live in Dallas, so not sure if that makes a difference as to what I need. snugglebunny fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 02:19
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Yes, it's straight forward. No, you don't need the housings. The 180 is fine.
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Jan 5, 2011 04:08
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Agreed. The temp rating on the thermostat reflects the temperature at which the thermostat will open up, allowing coolant from the radiator to circulate through the engine block to cool it further. The idea here is that the car will warm up quicker if it doesn't have to hear all that extra coolant in the radiator first. The failure mode for all thermostats I've seen (even my wacky corvair ones, which provide the same functionality, but with airflow) is to get stuck open, so that you don't end up overheating and blowing up your headgasket/engine because a $5 part fails.
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Jan 5, 2011 04:57
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There's a 06 GT premium that I'm considering buying. It has a crapload of miles on it (like 120k) but looks to be in really good shape, and has one crucial feature I want (manual transmission). How reliable is the Ford 4.6L v8? Should I run away screaming from it because it's going to blow up on me, or can I possibly expect another 100k+ miles out of it? The asking price is right in the middle of what KBB.com says it should be for a vehicle of its mileage in excellent condition.
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Jan 5, 2011 05:42
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How different is the new 6.2L "Boss" from the truck 6.2? Are they the same motor? How different is it from the Coyote? Looks like the heads are very different (Coyote has 4 valves per cyl, right?) but other than that? Are the blocks similar enough to put Coyote heads on a Boss block? I don't know if they're as lego as the LSx stuff is. e: Googling seems to answer all my questions, derp. Looks like it's all the same motor, and the 6.2 has a bigger bore spacing. Is anyone excited about the 6.2 at all? Or is there no point when the 5.0 is around? Raluek fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 05:48
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Raluek posted:e: Googling seems to answer all my questions, derp. Looks like it's all the same motor, and the 6.2 has a bigger bore spacing. quote:Is anyone excited about the 6.2 at all? Or is there no point when the 5.0 is around? I think 5.0 is a good displacement for a lot of power possibilities. 6.2 still seems like a truck motor in my mind and feels at home in the Raptor.
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Jan 5, 2011 06:16
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kimbo305 posted:Isn't bore spacing one of the things that isn't changed in an engine family? Or rather, a practical limit of tooling used to make a variety of engines My googling led me to http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=31019 which said "Core to the improvements is the adoption of an all-new engine architecture, with increased bore spacing, that allows better engine “breathing” in both the intake and exhaust for more power and more overall efficiency."
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Jan 5, 2011 06:43
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kimbo305 posted:Isn't bore spacing one of the things that isn't changed in an engine family? Or rather, a practical limit of tooling used to make a variety of engines The 6.2l is a different family.
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Jan 5, 2011 07:15
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That's too bad, I was really hoping it would just be a bigger displacement coyote, since they were both engineered around the same time.
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Jan 5, 2011 07:22
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Speaking of the 6.2. Don't you just get all giddy at the thought of replacing 8 burnt out coil packs, plus a set of old wires, and 16 spark plugs!  
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Jan 5, 2011 13:27
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A.o.D. posted:How reliable is the Ford 4.6L v8? Should I run away screaming from it because it's going to blow up on me, or can I possibly expect another 100k+ miles out of it? Outside of normal wear items I've only had to replace the alternator on my 2003 GT. That went at around 100k miles. The 4.6 is a rock solid engine that was used in many different vehicles for 18 years and was constantly updated and refined that entire time. Don't worry about a Ford engine, worry about the car that surrounds the engine. Raluek posted:e: Googling seems to answer all my questions, derp. Looks like it's all the same motor, and the 6.2 has a bigger bore spacing. Is anyone excited about the 6.2 at all? Or is there no point when the 5.0 is around? Think of the 6.2 as a big block modular and the 5.0 as a small block modular. People are excited for the 6.2, but mostly just the Outlaw drag racing folks. Don Bowles ran one in NMRA Hot Street during development that was stroked to 7L, spun to 7k RPM, and made over 700hp N/A. The 6.2 has serious potential is you're looking to make in excess of 2500hp.
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Jan 5, 2011 16:23
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Any suggestions for brake rotors/pads for a 2008 V6? I think the PO never changed them and they are looking pretty ugly to my untrained eye.
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Jan 5, 2011 20:46
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So I took the 128k mile mustang to a mechanic to get it inspected. The only things of note were worn ball joints and some tie rods, which all sounds perfectly reasonable for a car of that mileage. I may just go ahead and get it.
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Jan 7, 2011 03:53
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To begin my midlife crisis early, I bought 2011 Automatic V6 Coupe. Cross-shopping a Genesis Coupe (that I didn't fit into when equipped with sunroof, as anything with an LSD had), I walked into a Ford dealer who had a canceled order at a price tag much more attractive than the Hyundai. $1000 off for being a Costco member.  Race Red, Pony and Interior packages. The polar opposite of how I would have optioned it, but with this being nearly the last V6 in Canada, it was this one, or wait until Spring. I was already considering an automatic, for the commute. It's taking me some time to learn how to drive the auto. It behaves funny on kickdown sometimes; shifting down once, accelerating for a half-second, then shifting down again and continuing. Short of tuning, is there anything I can do to avoid this? Also, it's hard to use the mid-range. It's either the top or bottom end. Hill assist mode helps, I guess. I'm sure replacing the 2.73 gears would help more.
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Jan 12, 2011 00:39
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A handheld tuner is the single best investment you can make. If you're really wanting to change the way the transmission shifts to suite you, you need a custom dyno tune to really get it right.
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Jan 12, 2011 00:46
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sliderule posted:Also, it's hard to use the mid-range. It's either the top or bottom end. Hill assist mode helps, I guess. I'm sure replacing the 2.73 gears would help more. Does it have 2.73 gears?
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Jan 12, 2011 01:00
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e: Yes, I think. The option sheet does not mention the upgrade to 3.31.
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Jan 12, 2011 01:13
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