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So I'm 95% sure I have to pull the head, I have a lot of signs pointing to the head gasket, but something is still bugging me: there is coolant getting into cylinder 3 almost for sure, but my oil and coolant look fine, if not cleaner than expected. So the best I can tell, coolant is entering the head and burning, but oil isn't leaving. This seems pretty unusual to me, but does that sound reasonable/possible to you guys? The car had a mild overheating/coolant leak (radiator needed replacing) about 7 months ago, but has ran perfectly until it recently started burning coolant (last week, at a pretty mild rate), and I diligently monitor the 'real' temps via obd2, and it hasn't overheated, so I'm really confused about what brought this on. I wasn't running the car hard or anything. The only other factor is the car has probably never seen freezing temperatures before this winter, so my best guess is that the engine was rapidly cooling from ~180 degrees to ~20 degrees, and that simply caused the head gasket or head to crack. Again, reasonable? Pretty sure I'm going to pull the head either way, but any advice is welcome. Thanks in advance. tl;dr: Burning coolant, but oil and coolant aren't mixing whatsoever, can't tell what the gently caress is going on.
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Dec 22, 2010 05:00
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| # ? May 16, 2024 00:59 |
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The HG failed between a water jacket and the cylinder. Pop off the radiator cap and put a funnel in there with some coolant so it forms a water lock. Do exhaust gasses eventually bubble out? FatCow fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Dec 22, 2010 |
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Dec 22, 2010 05:12
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meltie posted:
I'm so sorry for your loss. Why did they slash the roof, to gain entry to the vehicle?
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Dec 22, 2010 09:08
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willie_dee posted:I'm so sorry for your loss. Why did they slash the roof, to gain entry to the vehicle? Yeah, must've been. I'm very tempted to buy the 'wreck' back and fix it up. Bit of stormsure glue and some new fascia bits... 
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Dec 22, 2010 20:13
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FatCow posted:It looks like what I'm thinking of wasn't actually OEM. Closest OEM that I can find is like: http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/windows/images/Image01.jpg My 94 looks just like that. It's an R package but I don't think that matters. It's year dependent. Look at the huge package pdf on miata.net to find the exact range you're looking for.
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Dec 22, 2010 23:38
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The problem he's trying to alleviate is being able to shut the door without the handle/shelf hitting the seat. I'll probably swap cards with him to see if/where it rubs since I have a 94.
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Dec 22, 2010 23:42
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I've had stock and now Sparco Sprint V's in my car and have no problem with the 94 panel hitting anything. I'm taller though and the Sparco is mounted directly to the floor and almost against the sheet metal behind the seats. The passenger seat is on the stock slider (also Sparco Sprint V) and it doesn't have any problems with the handle anywhere, though seems to interfere with the trans tunnel if moved really far forward. It would only be a problem if you didn't have legs.
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Dec 23, 2010 15:44
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destructo posted:IIRC Only special Japanese packages like the M1 or M2 had these. Best bet is to make your own or repurpose them from another car. I know this isnt OEM like you said, but heres a FANTASTIC write-up from m.net about how to make your own center-console delete and carpet, like the japanese special editions. Most people use a chrome ring for the shifter, but i think i'd go with a metal gated one for the Lamborghini-style  link: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=392922&highlight= On another note, its significant other christmas present time! Do i get suspension parts or the FlyinMiata Frame rail reinforcement and butterfly brace? Car is a bone stock NA8 and i've got a roughly $400 budget. Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Dec 23, 2010 |
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Dec 23, 2010 17:25
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RB tubular front sway and 949racing endlinks.
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Dec 23, 2010 18:52
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Is that really a massive jump over the Flyin-miata ones? For less than 200 bucks i could have adjustable front and rear sways. Let me rephrase the question: Without good tires and a tight suspension (for now), is the butterfly brace pointless? My car is a base and doesnt have the bracing some cars did, the rattles and wunks when going over any kind of bump are killing me
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Dec 23, 2010 20:27
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The butterfly brace and frame rails are a waste of money when you're not doing any type of "REAL RACING" with the car. Noises come with the car; if you wanted a comfortable, quiet ride you should have purchased a Crown Vic. If you want to upgrade your suspension at all, springing for Koni yellows is not a bad idea, but getting a bigger front sway will help with some of the rolling at the expense of being a little bit more push happy. The Flyin' Miata rear sway is too big/stiff and will make you way more oversteer prone.
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Dec 23, 2010 21:10
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I got the RB hollow sways front and rear and just kept the stock end-links. I'll replace them if one breaks or there's a problem. Love the sway bars though. I did install them in conjunction with Bilstein Sports and H&R race springs though so I've not tested them alone, but I'm sure they would be a marked improvement. It's a 99 with no aftermarket reinforcement except a Harddog rollbar
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Dec 23, 2010 21:50
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Phone is the new Vitamin J. If you want to get rid of those rattles and general shaky feel in the front end of the car, pick up a front shock tower brace and those frame rails, it's a night and day difference. Granted, this only works with the NA since the later ones already come with these as OEM equipment/are stiffer to begin with. It doesn't make the car faster, but it does make it much more enjoyable to drive.
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Dec 23, 2010 23:40
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destructo posted:Phone is the new Vitamin J. The NB doesn't usually come with the shock tower brace, I don't know about the frame rails. AFAIK only the special editions and "sport suspension package" miatas came with the shock tower brace.
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Dec 24, 2010 00:34
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Taking a break from breaking down this engine. Almost done. Not too bad except had to cut up a poo poo load of fuel/vacuum lines that were pretty much fused to the connectors. Oh well. How much does the head weigh with the intake manifold attached? Think I can lift that off by myself?
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Dec 24, 2010 02:44
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I'm pretty sure that the head is made out of aluminum.
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Dec 24, 2010 03:17
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If it's like any other aluminum 4 cylinder head I've pulled it's doable by yourself. it's an awkward reach though so make 100% sure all wires and hoses are disconnected and the head and everything attached wont catch any other wires/hoses on the way out. It's no fun to be pulling on it and have it lifted a bit and feel that tugging and it not going anywhere. It's easy to set it back down wrong and gouge or scratch the head gasket mating surface wheeee
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Dec 24, 2010 03:32
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God, it's been over a year since I got to drive my little NB. I love it so much, it's so raw and responsive. I knew there was a reason I don't like driving newer cars. They make me feel all claustrophobic and like I can't see anything, even my wife's NC gives me that. So good to be home for a bit to drive the ol' gal. Anyways, I noticed rust bubbling up under the paint on top of the driver's side rear arch. Just a small spot, 'bout the size of quarter, but it's worrying since I wont be able to take care of it for at least another 6 months. Do you think it'll be alright for now or is this probably a 'sooner than later' issue?
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Dec 24, 2010 06:07
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Brain Issues posted:The NB doesn't usually come with the shock tower brace, I don't know about the frame rails. AFAIK only the special editions and "sport suspension package" miatas came with the shock tower brace.
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Dec 24, 2010 09:17
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AkrisD posted:God, it's been over a year since I got to drive my little NB. I love it so much, it's so raw and responsive. I knew there was a reason I don't like driving newer cars. They make me feel all claustrophobic and like I can't see anything, even my wife's NC gives me that. So good to be home for a bit to drive the ol' gal. Definitely a sooner-rather-than-later issue, especially if it's anywhere near salt (ie UK cars)
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Dec 24, 2010 12:30
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Welp. Looks like my time with a Miata will be over sooner than expected. Got hit in a parking lot today. Front fender and headlight are destroyed, hood doesn't close, bumper is in bad shape, and the big one is the steering. The wheel in the photo is straight but the steering wheel and the right front are cranked hard left. I was planning on selling it soon and getting a Ranger, and I bought a used window regulator to fix the left side. Guess I can skip that now. Still have full coverage on it, so insurance will be picking it up and inspecting it. If they don't gently caress me over on their offer, I'll let them take it.
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Dec 24, 2010 22:06
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Ranger? You already have a pickup truck
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Dec 24, 2010 22:31
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Yeah, but not one I can throw a bunch of poo poo into whenever I want - both due to fear of damage and insurance reasons. I also can't use it as an interim daily driver. The Miata doesn't work for my commute these days anyway.
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Dec 25, 2010 01:51
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MERRY CHRISTMAS
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Dec 25, 2010 22:35
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Howed you do that?
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Dec 26, 2010 00:48
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Don't know. Everyone is like "the head never cracks!". Car hasn't seen temps above ~215 for months, nor has it been ran hard since the summer. Oh well. Grabbing a used head and this will still be under $300 fixed easy.
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Dec 26, 2010 02:04
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Merry christmas! My miata wont run! My car (1996 Miata Base 5 speed) wont idle After the occasional low/rough idle for a few weeks my car has lost the ability to not die unless i hold the throttle (made for an interesting drive home for christmas dinner, left foot braking at every stop light, holding the revs up with my right foot so it wouldnt stall. The revs simply fall to 0RPM and it runs roughly briefly and stalls.When i start the car it runs and idles fine (only tested once), the second i blip the throttle away from that initial running period, it will run low rpm (i saw an indicated 0 rpm without engine death, although it would have followed very shortly thereafter), when the engine dies a quick CEL appears, than it dies. When the car is in gear everything works perfectly, no sign of misfires anywhere. Where do i begin? The car has 82,000 miles on what could very well be the original plugs and wires, but this dying issue is just strange. Help me AI! One more thing, after a recent timing belt/water pump job i requested a trusted mechanic set the timing to 14BTDC, he said before it was jumping between 8 and 11 (normal). Could this be causing my problem? Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Dec 26, 2010 |
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Dec 26, 2010 05:37
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How do Miatas handle air delivery at idle? Sounds like a faulty IACV...
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Dec 26, 2010 05:45
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Friend of mine said IAC as well, he knows nothing about miatas but says "Im sure its similar to ford, see if its full of gunk". Would anyone mind giving me a simple walkthrough of this process? I dont have a clue where that is or what tools to use, but ill try it (fortune favors the bold). But i feel like if i go in blind i might do more harm than good...
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Dec 26, 2010 16:01
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Piano posted:Don't know. Everyone is like "the head never cracks!". Car hasn't seen temps above ~215 for months, nor has it been ran hard since the summer. That sucks, I've never seen or heard of that happening either. I have a 94 head I can pull and sell you if you're looking for a 1.8. I'm in Cincinnati, if it matters. mattdizzleZ28 posted:Friend of mine said IAC as well, he knows nothing about miatas but says "Im sure its similar to ford, see if its full of gunk". What year? 1.6 or 1.8L? It should be right on the throttle body with a hose that connects to the intake pipe. Also it should have an electrical connector on it. Never paid much attention to it or taken it off but I imagine it's only a couple bolts to remove and check it. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Dec 27, 2010 |
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Dec 27, 2010 02:50
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DreamOn13 posted:That sucks, I've never seen or heard of that happening either. I have a 94 head I can pull and sell you if you're looking for a 1.8. I'm in Cincinnati, if it matters. Already sourced one from a guy on m.net, but thanks for offering. My budget so far: -$150 used head -$40(?) head gasket -$20 PCV valve I broke on removal -$50(?) milling $250ish. Don't know if I need new ARP head bolts. The bolt that was next to the crack had some dents on it, all the other bolts are fine. It would be $100 for a set of the ARP bolts, or I could replace that one bolt with a mazda one for something like $15. Not sure what I want to do. Obviously I don't want to skimp on the engine but just not sure if the ARP ones will make a difference. edit: Also the Top Gear special with a miata in it may or may not be on a :files: site if I had to guess. Jean Eric Burn fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Dec 27, 2010 |
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Dec 27, 2010 03:38
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Piano posted:
The bolts are not torque to yield, so you can reuse them if you want. Having said that, I reused my set and immediately had a weeping HG. Removed the head again, new HG, re-cleaned and re-dried everthing, and re-installed with ARP studs, and no more leaks. Used the same ARP studs in my second built motor with no issues as well.
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Dec 27, 2010 11:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:Welp. Hi, friend.     MERRY CHRISTMAS!! Phone fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Dec 27, 2010 |
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Dec 27, 2010 15:26
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 Guessing that you aren't looking for an excuse to sell yours, though.
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Dec 27, 2010 16:08
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You try to take a shortcut through a snowbank there Mr. Phone?
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Dec 27, 2010 20:25
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No, but rather... a fan.
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Dec 27, 2010 20:59
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I don't get it.
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Dec 27, 2010 21:43
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I'll take that mangled shell off your hands so you don't have to go through the bother of scrapping it.
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Dec 27, 2010 21:49
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You volunteering your garage space so I can part out my car? Christmas really is the spirit of giving. 
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Dec 27, 2010 22:23
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Trying to figure something out on my '91 Miata (5sp). If you're driving along and accelerate, the car turns to the left. If you let off the throttle, it turns to the right. It's gotta be something loose in the rear suspension, right? My first thought was the strut tops because it's the only part I know has been worked on in the relatively recent past (it's been over a year, though), so I'm checking those now. What else could it be?
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Dec 27, 2010 22:30
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