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On riding itself Proficient Motorcycling is pretty good. About mechanics, sitting down by the fire with a nub connecticut, laphroaig, and a service manual is always a good way to spend an evening.
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Jan 23, 2011 07:42
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| # ? May 16, 2024 23:21 |
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Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance. After you read through 2000 pages of rambling nonsense you'll really need a motorcycle ride to clear your head and you'll definitely have the motivation to fix anything that's broken.  Seriously though, you're better off learning by doing. Find a cheap bike, ideally one that already runs, buy the repair manual, and start a project thread. Ask lots of questions, even the stupid ones. Z3n fucked around with this message at 10:58 on Jan 23, 2011 |
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Jan 23, 2011 10:54
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Miss Fats posted:Beyond that, are there other books out there that are generally recommended for learning about riding (from more of a manual standpoint) and about learning bikes for building/fixing? The absolute best way to learn to wrench is to buy two bikes. One bike would be a daily rider that doesn't really need work. The other bike would be a running fixer-upper that you can learn to wrench on without the pressure of loving up your daily ride. Make sure the wrenching bike at least runs so that you don't spend months working on it only to discover that it's pretty much a goner. Plus, it's satisfying doing small jobs and getting instant gratification on a bike that kinda sorta works. Obviously, get a service manual, and find relevant forums pertaining to whatever bike you're working on (or ask your wrench questions here, but sometimes you get the best advice from people who have actually owned your particular bike). There's not really a lot of "theory" when it comes to maintenance, you pretty much have to build up your vocabulary of potential problems, what causes them, and how to fix them, which is best achieved through doing stuff with your hands.
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Jan 24, 2011 06:08
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I bought a 2007 Kawasaki KLXR 250 about a month ago. I have no manual so I don't know how big the tank is, but I'm getting about 100 k's before switching to reserve, and then another 30 or 40. Everyone seems to think that's wrong and that I should get at least 180 k's. Any reason this might be happening? Blocked jet or something? Or is it standard on a KLXR?
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Jan 24, 2011 08:52
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freebooter posted:I bought a 2007 Kawasaki KLXR 250 about a month ago. I have no manual so I don't know how big the tank is, but I'm getting about 100 k's before switching to reserve, and then another 30 or 40. Everyone seems to think that's wrong and that I should get at least 180 k's. Any reason this might be happening? Blocked jet or something? Or is it standard on a KLXR? Well, if it's the same as the current model, you only have a 7.7l tank. 180k from that would be 23.3 km/l (~64mpg). 135km in 7.7 would be something like 48 mpg. The latter seems more believable if you're trying to keep it at highway/fast road speeds.
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Jan 24, 2011 11:12
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What's a decent set of track stands I should look for? My SV has spools in the swingarm and I'd like to get a track stand anyway, although especially to change the flat I got on Saturday.
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Jan 25, 2011 01:37
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MoonCricket posted:Can anyone tell me what they think of this bike. It's a 2005 DRZ400SM with 5300 miles and a FMF titanium 4 exhaust(not sure if its a slip on or full). The pictures look good to me and the buyer says its in good condition. He's asking $2800 but I'm not sure exactly what I should be paying for a decent condition DRZ. It's close to a 3 hour drive and I'm considering going to look at it in the morning. This is the closest thing to what I want that I've seen near me. Anything specific I should looking for on a used DRZ? That is pretty much what I'm looking for and I'm jealous of you. I'm looking to ditch an 04 FZ6 but all the DRZs I've found are newer and asking in the mid to high 3s. I think I'll be lucky to get near 2800 out of the FZ6 so adding a grand is a bit of a push for me, especially considering I enjoy my bike and there's nothing wrong with it. Buy it buy it buy it.
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Jan 25, 2011 02:37
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sirbeefalot posted:What's a decent set of track stands I should look for? My SV has spools in the swingarm and I'd like to get a track stand anyway, although especially to change the flat I got on Saturday. I personally use Pitbull and when I go to the track I always see lots of Pitbull stands, so they must be doing something right. I have seen a few horror stories of cheap stands collapsing under the weight.
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Jan 25, 2011 05:10
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I personally use Pitbull and when I go to the track I always see lots of Pitbull stands, so they must be doing something right. I have seen a few horror stories of cheap stands collapsing under the weight. Pitbull is where it's at. Powerstands racing is a ripoff of them, avoid. By the way, check Craigslist. I picked up a Pitbull front stand and rear stand for $100.
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Jan 25, 2011 05:10
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I went to refill the brake fluid on my 82 Yamaha Seca XJ750 and a screw on top of the reservoir stripped itself on the head. Do I want an easy-out or something to repair this? I'm petrified of breaking the lid.
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Jan 25, 2011 05:19
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Xenoid posted:I went to refill the brake fluid on my 82 Yamaha Seca XJ750 and a screw on top of the reservoir stripped itself on the head. Do I want an easy-out or something to repair this? I'm petrified of breaking the lid.
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Jan 25, 2011 06:11
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No. I suppose I should buy one as it might come in handy or possibly be of use here. Any other options or is that easiest?
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Jan 25, 2011 06:17
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That's really the right tool for the job. You can try a punch and a hammer though.
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Jan 25, 2011 07:14
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You can get out your dremel and notch the head for a flat screwdriver.
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Jan 25, 2011 08:30
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sirbeefalot posted:What's a decent set of track stands I should look for? My SV has spools in the swingarm and I'd like to get a track stand anyway, although especially to change the flat I got on Saturday. Get a headstock-type front stand (the kind with a pin) so you can pull the forks easily.
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Jan 25, 2011 10:19
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Xenoid posted:I went to refill the brake fluid on my 82 Yamaha Seca XJ750 and a screw on top of the reservoir stripped itself on the head. Do I want an easy-out or something to repair this? I'm petrified of breaking the lid. This happened to mine. Since the screw is tapered, I just drilled into it from the top until the screw head separated from the screw. Once the lid was off I could just unscrew the remaining bastard with pliers. Dremeling a notch for a flat screwdriver is a very good option but you need a very small and thin cutting disc to avoid touching the lid. If you do get an impact driver, it should come with some high quality, sharp screw bits. The can be hammered into the screw for better grip and unscrewed with the impact driver or a bit set T-handle.
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Jan 25, 2011 13:34
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Can anyone GS-skilled confirm that the top window is the gear position indicator? (from 81 GS550)  Thinking about getting (ouch) a Motogadget (wallet ouch) and want to keep my fuel and gear gauges. Plan is to hack these out and place them in their own housing.
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Jan 25, 2011 22:14
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I recently purchased a 2009 GSX-R 750 and squeezing the clutch handle over and over is making my wrist pretty sore. I can't determine if it's because of the distance from the handle (I have pretty small hands) or if it's due to the tension. I was doing some research and this looked like a good option: http://mooseracing.com/catalog.jsp?level1=1756&level2=1782&level3=1784&level4=1800&product_group_id=7267 Does anyone have any experience with the Moose Racing Easy Pull? Are there other options to consider to ease some of the wrist pain? After riding for about an hour yesterday my wrist was so sore I could barely use it anymore. I'm trying not to put weight on it as well but it doesn't seem to make much difference.
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Jan 25, 2011 22:27
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Ola posted:Can anyone GS-skilled confirm that the top window is the gear position indicator? Parts fiche says "yes".
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Jan 25, 2011 22:44
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you could keep riding it and the exercise of clutching will turn your muppet arms into limbs of steel.
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Jan 25, 2011 22:58
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Kommando posted:you could keep riding it and the exercise of clutching will turn your muppet arms into limbs of steel. It's true that it will probably get better, but even on my last bike after riding for several years, my wrist would still get quite sore after a couple hours. I haven't ridden in a couple years, so it's probably extra painful as my body adjust again, but I was just looking for a way to ease the tension, even if it's just a little.
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Jan 25, 2011 23:13
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Bucephalus posted:Parts fiche says "yes". Thanks, didn't occur to me to check that. Will buy them and see what I can hack up!
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Jan 25, 2011 23:20
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Shadowgate posted:I recently purchased a 2009 GSX-R 750 and squeezing the clutch handle over and over is making my wrist pretty sore. I'd check the basics first: Is your cable lubed and clean? What about the lever pivot? Is it adjusted so it's comfortable to reach when you're in riding position? If you've already looked at that, I'd personally spring for an adjustable clutch lever over a solution like that, as I have to believe that anything that reduces effort is just going to be distributing it over a longer distance, potentially making it difficult to engage the clutch smoothly, especially if you have small hands. ASV/CRG/Pazzo/whatever, they're all pretty much the same, and will allow you to adjust the lever inward so you can reach it. That should reduce the majority of the strain on your wrist. Adjustment at the cable will change engagement point, adjustable levers will let you adjust the reach to the lever. Adjustable levers are something that should be on any motorcycle stock, but are often passed over.
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Jan 25, 2011 23:53
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Z3n posted:I'd check the basics first: Is your cable lubed and clean? What about the lever pivot? Is it adjusted so it's comfortable to reach when you're in riding position? Cool, I appreciate the info. It doesn't look like the stock clutch lever is adjustable so I do have to reach out a bit. I was looking at some of the adjustable ones but I wasn't sure if they would help much. I'll pick up an adjustable lever online and see if that makes a difference.
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Jan 25, 2011 23:56
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I think I'll be needing to replace the chain on my Ninja 250 in a bit here, is EK a fairly reputable brand? I was looking at this one, for reference: http://powersport-superstore-inc.amazonwebstore.com/EK-Chain-520SRO-ORing-Chain-106/M/B000WK324E.htm
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Jan 27, 2011 06:41
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sectoidman posted:I think I'll be needing to replace the chain on my Ninja 250 in a bit here, is EK a fairly reputable brand? EK is a decent enough brand, but I'd go with an X-Ring chain over O-ring, it'll last longer. You can send a message to schad@speedaddictcycles.com asking about chains for your 250 and he can hook you up with an RK XSO chain, let him know Conan recommended you and it'll net you an additional discount  I'd link you to his site but he hasn't got them listed up there yet. He should beat any other price on the internet.
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Jan 27, 2011 06:47
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Would an old xj600 make a good first bike? How does the power come on in these old 600? http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/2181333335.html
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Jan 28, 2011 05:07
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Sure, why not. If the SV650 makes the beginner list, then an XJ600 definitely does. The powerband in an air cooled 600 is definitely manageable.
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Jan 28, 2011 05:38
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Russian Bear posted:Would an old xj600 make a good first bike? How does the power come on in these old 600? It's an air-cooled four with extremely mild characteristics. A very good first bike actually, if you're determined not to learn on something like a Ninja 250. Look for corrosion on the frame where the cradle's down tubes meet the swingarm pivot (i.e. behind the footpeg mounts). Check the brakes aren't binding (pistons corroded or gunked up) and the front disc isn't warped - both are characteristic of the 90s-Yamaha Sumitomo calipers. Also check the condition of that exhaust - is it about to rust through? Corrosion resistance was not a huge priority for Yamaha prior to the late 90s. You can get replacements easily/cheaply enough, but unless it's spotless (doesn't look likely), the mild steel downpipes will be firmly welded to the head The seller doesn't sound like he's particularly clued up, so clearly chain and sprockets should be checked for wear and condition. Finally, the fact that it's got loving awful anodised aftermarket bar ends and grips suggests to me about a 75% likelihood that someone's lowsided it in the past. That really doesn't matter, just make sure the bike is straight, the frame's not damaged/cracked and the fork sliders aren't creased or leaking badly.
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Jan 28, 2011 09:55
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Whenever people ask about different 250's it always seems to be recommended that they get the ninja250 or something bigger. Are there really no other 250's worth while for newb riders? I'm not especially considering getting a 250, but I was browsing options recently and I really don't like "sport" style looks of the ninjas. If it matters I am 6' and 125lbs. I know there are VStar250, GZ250, TU250 models as far as recent stuff is concerned.
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Jan 28, 2011 16:44
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EDIT: ^^^^ The Ninja 250 is sort of not in the same class as the other bikes you mention. It's got 34hp, which is somewhat more than the others. It's a better middle ground between no-power 125cc bikes and 400-600cc bikes. Also, 6 feet and 125lbs  Russian Bear posted:Would an old xj600 make a good first bike? How does the power come on in these old 600? It's the Toyota Corolla of bikes. Dependable and mild. I sound like a broken record, but a Suzuki Bandit 600 is in roughly the same class of bikes, like the XJ600 it's an aircooled four with ~75hp and a nice evenly distributed powerband. Power comes on nice and predictable. It'll put a big smile on your face if you wind it all the way out but it's got the midrange pull to just ride around normally without setting your hair on fire. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jan 28, 2011 |
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Jan 28, 2011 17:02
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KozmoNaut posted:The Ninja 250 is sort of not in the same class as the other bikes you mention. It's got 34hp, which is somewhat more than the others. It's a better middle ground between no-power 125cc bikes and 400-600cc bikes. I guess thats why I am asking. I find it weird that the ninja is the only one that fits into the niche...because it seems like such a good spot for a bike. Shrug. Thanks for the info.
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Jan 28, 2011 17:15
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Saga posted:
I got the same vibe reading the ad for some reason. Assuming everything you said checks out(not likely), $1200 seemed a bit high for a 19 yo bike. Where should i start negotiating?
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Jan 28, 2011 17:28
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I would start by inspecting the bike very carefully and generally giving the impression that you know what you're doing. I've gotten great deals before from sellers who didn't know a lot about bikes just by being genuinely more knowledgeable about their own bike than they were. It's easy to ding some money off for old tires (check the date code, should be a 4 digit number like XXYY where XX is week of manufacture out of 52, and YY and are the last two digits of the year), a worn chain/sprocket set (when's the last time you cleaned or adjusted the chain?), a slightly leaky fork seal, or any number of other things. $1,200 seems like an alright price if it's in real good shape but you can probably barter down to 800 if you're good.
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Jan 28, 2011 17:48
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Russian Bear posted:I got the same vibe reading the ad for some reason. Assuming everything you said checks out(not likely), $1200 seemed a bit high for a 19 yo bike. Where should i start negotiating? Don't know much about US prices myself. But what FWB said! Obviously, there's a certain utility value (or at least a parts value) to a running bike, so you're never going to get it for $50.
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Jan 28, 2011 18:11
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Anyone know the proper disposal of used coolant? I always assumed it needed to be recycled but apparently that isn't the case and a search reveals a lot of people saying it's fine to pour down the drain.
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Jan 28, 2011 18:21
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Gnaghi posted:Anyone know the proper disposal of used coolant? I always assumed it needed to be recycled but apparently that isn't the case and a search reveals a lot of people saying it's fine to pour down the drain. Edit: Double checked, and at least this source agrees with me: http://www.greentruck.com/waste/antifreeze/1102.html
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Jan 28, 2011 18:33
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chryst posted:There's no federal regulations. I don't think the EPA has come to a conclusion on antifreeze yet, which is why people think it's fine to just dump. A lot of states/localities have their own laws. I got a quick response from my sewer company and it's not allowed in my area, but there is a disposal facility that takes it for free. They say it will interfere with the operation of the sanitary sewer. Apparently while new coolant isn't hazardous, used is because it picks up all kinds of crap from the engine.
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Jan 28, 2011 18:58
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KozmoNaut posted:EDIT: ^^^^ The Ninja 250 is sort of not in the same class as the other bikes you mention. It's got 34hp, which is somewhat more than the others. I don't know if you mean metric horsepower, or if Europe has smaller horses, but there's no way the ninja 250 has 34hp, I'd bet 26-28 on a good day.
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Jan 29, 2011 01:22
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| # ? May 16, 2024 23:21 |
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It is listed at 34 on most sites
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Jan 29, 2011 01:44
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