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blugu64 posted:I don't know if you mean metric horsepower, or if Europe has smaller horses, but there's no way the ninja 250 has 34hp, I'd bet 26-28 on a good day.
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Jan 29, 2011 02:10
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Tax refunds and student aid refunds/loans are in soon. Trackday season is fast approaching for the southeast. That can only mean one thing. Time to spend some money. Alright, here's my current list of crap: -Woodcraft Toe Guard -Woodcraft Case Cover (left side) -Armour Bodies -Woodcraft or Vortex rearsets. I really like WC products and their CS is amazing. But, Vortex rearsets are adjustable 10mm higher than the Woodcraft. I basically want my positioning as aggressive as possible and obviously maximizing ground clearance is cool. Does the 10mm actually give more clearance or will you be dragging other poo poo before that point? Any opinions from you doods who have more first-hand experience than I? Also, steering stabilizer -- recommended or not required? I don't want to spend a shitton (not racing or anything) but I do have plans to really improve my riding this season. Lastly, suspension. Obviously one of the most important things you can do to the bike. Also one of the most expensive. I know nothing about suspension work though. At what point do I need to start replacing internals? I'm guessing I need to have the forks resprung if nothing else because I weigh 125lb without gear on, yeah? Even just a basic setup without replacing parts is damned expensive. I'm basically trying to spend the bare minimum I can to comfortably carry myself to advanced pace without issues and/or skimping on quality, in regards to all this stuff. Any suggestions or advice about any of the parts I listed? Edit: I know the 'cheapest' solution is "buy a trackbike" but there's no way I can afford a dedicated trackbike within the next couple years and I do want to continue riding on the street.
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Jan 29, 2011 07:10
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I was all ready to buy whatever cheap chain Cycle Re-Cycle (crc2onlinecatalog.com)was selling new for my bike, an 80' Honda 750F, until I saw that it's non-O-ring. Somebody mentioned that one should get at least o-ring, if not x-ring earlier. If you keep your chain clean and lubed does it all make that much of a difference? What even is a non-O-ring chain anyway? Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Jan 29, 2011 |
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Jan 29, 2011 12:22
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Breaking this down into bits:-Inu- posted:Tax refunds and student aid refunds/loans are in soon. Trackday season is fast approaching for the southeast. That can only mean one thing. It's not always just about clearance...sometimes it's about comfort. My Woodcrafts on the SV were horrifically uncomfortable, but with the assistance of the rearset riser plates became very comfortable for track use. Sometimes just a few mm in the right direction makes all the difference in the world. WC makes really nice stuff, but I personally prefer the much more adjustable vortex rearsets. I'd also want Woodcraft or Vortex clipons, with a couple of spare bars floating around. You can probably sell the stock ones to recoup a decent chunk of the cost of them. On an R6 you're going to want tank sliders as well, so your bike doesn't become a torch when you fall over and it wears through the top of the tank. I don't know how good your cycle gear hookup is, but you can contact schad@speedaddictcycles and see if he can get below your cost on vortex stuff. It's worth a shot to try and save money at least. Let him know Conan recommended you, the Vortex stuff isn't on the site yet. quote:Also, steering stabilizer -- recommended or not required? I don't want to spend a shitton (not racing or anything) but I do have plans to really improve my riding this season. It depends on how you tune your geometry and suspension. I have a steering damper on my racebike, but I like my bikes set up on the stable side and it's always at the lowest level of adjustment. Some people swear by them, I've always felt like if your suspension is setup right they're more of an additional insurance than a requirement. The truth is, if you're constantly getting headshake on a 600, you're probably just weighting the bars too much on corner exit. quote:Lastly, suspension. Obviously one of the most important things you can do to the bike. Also one of the most expensive. I know nothing about suspension work though. At what point do I need to start replacing internals? I'm guessing I need to have the forks resprung if nothing else because I weigh 125lb without gear on, yeah? Even just a basic setup without replacing parts is damned expensive. How much suspension travel are you using now? If you're using the majority of the suspension travel, if you can get into the ballpark for sag, then the forks won't need much addressing except new oil. If you can't, you're going to need new springs and while you're at it you should do the oil. You probably won't need a revalve until the forks need new fork oil in the future, so you can hold off on that for now. According to racetech's site, you're actually fairly close, stock spring rate is .90 and you should have a .879 for your weight. So if you back off the preload, you should be pretty much good to go with the stock front spring. On the rear, you should have a 8.97 and stock is 9.8, so I'd probably respring that down to a 8.9. For around 100$ you could have the bike sprung properly. From there, you'd need to monitor tire wear and feedback to decide what direction you wanted to take it. quote:Edit: I know the 'cheapest' solution is "buy a trackbike" but there's no way I can afford a dedicated trackbike within the next couple years and I do want to continue riding on the street. If you're gonna keep street riding, don't bother with the track plastics. If you hadn't crashed, sure, it'd be a worthwhile investment so you could keep the plastics pristine. But you've already crashed the bike, so if it were mine and I wasn't concerned about cosmetics, I'd hawk any good panels (and the tank, if it's not damaged) in exchange for damaged ones + cash and paint it flat black. With the money from that, I'd buy a second set of wheels, and slap DOT Race rubber on them. You're not going to want to dick with swapping track plastics for stock ones every time you want to go back to the track or ride on the street. It's a pain in the rear end. This lets you recoup the costs of some parts, save money on track plastics, and take as much advantage of the undamaged parts as possible. It's gonna look like a beater, but everyone's first trackbike should look like a beater and the money you save will help you pay for the upgrades you really need or more tracktime (which is basically the best gofast money you can spend). Make sure you have the proper sliders and engine protection, set the bike up so a crash is easily repaired, and you're good to go. Rontalvos posted:I was all ready to buy whatever cheap chain Cycle Re-Cycle (crc2onlinecatalog.com)was selling new for my bike, an 80' Honda 750F, until I saw that it's non-O-ring. A non-O-ring chain doesn't have o-rings to contain the grease in the rollers. So you have to continually lube it (figure every 150 miles) and even then, it's less effective than a proper O-ring chain. The best life I've ever gotten out of a non-o-ring chain was about 3k. They're used on racebikes sometimes because the chain has less rolling resistance, but they are pretty much the worst for street use. I'd recommend an X-ring chain, because they last longer than O-ring chains. Again, send an e-mail to schad@speedaddictcycles.com and let him know Conan recommended you and he can probably get down into the ~60$ range for a good RK XSO chain. Chains are one of those things where paying a bit more upfront will pay off in the long run...I typically see 20k+ out of the RK XSO chains.
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Jan 29, 2011 19:40
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Rontalvos posted:I was all ready to buy whatever cheap chain Cycle Re-Cycle (crc2onlinecatalog.com)was selling new for my bike, an 80' Honda 750F, until I saw that it's non-O-ring. Makes all the difference in the world, both in operation and the duration of your chain and sprockets. The difference between a traditional and o ring chain is the o-ring has rubber rings between the links of the chain. If you look at both side by side you can see them. When you lube an oring chain you are lubing the rings themselves and not so much the chain, which is why you need to use oring lube because wd40 or similar will deteriorate the rubber. Xrings seal better, stretch less, and supposedly have less friction, but they are more expensive.
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Jan 29, 2011 19:43
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-Inu- posted:-Woodcraft or Vortex rearsets. Z3n posted:WC makes really nice stuff, but I personally prefer the much more adjustable vortex rearsets. Vortex rearsets eat the poo poo out of boot soles though don't they? I'm pretty sure it was Vortex that do it.
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Jan 30, 2011 00:45
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Z3n posted:WC makes really nice stuff, but I personally prefer the much more adjustable vortex rearsets. I do have Woodcraft clipons on the bike now, since the stock one on the left side snapped clean off when I lowsided at Tally. Completely forgot about the tank sliders when I was writing the post, but yeah, definitely buying those. I'm lucky the bike didn't slide too far when I crashed because even in the short distance it traveled the tank got pretty eaten up. So expensive for something so simple though  quote:How much suspension travel are you using now? If you're using the majority of the suspension travel, if you can get into the ballpark for sag, then the forks won't need much addressing except new oil. If you can't, you're going to need new springs and while you're at it you should do the oil. You probably won't need a revalve until the forks need new fork oil in the future, so you can hold off on that for now. Thanks a ton for all the advice. It's invaluable and much appreciated, especially the suspension tips. Now the question is how quickly I'll eat through a set of soft NTECs...I hear they're good for a day or two max but they're the only thing I have a reliable hookup for right now.
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Jan 30, 2011 01:03
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Vortex rearsets eat the poo poo out of boot soles though don't they? I'm pretty sure it was Vortex that do it. They do. I've actually used woodcraft pegs on vortex rearsets before, although I don't have a set of pegs on hand to test with. You can also farm them out to your local machine shop to get them turned down a little bit, which I might do this week coming up. -Inu- posted:I was kind of leaning towards the Vortex anyway. Everyone I know uses them and the adjustability does seem very nice. I hear WC pegs flex somewhat as well. Thanks for the contact, I'll shoot him an email and see what he says. No problem. I'm trying to prove that I'm actually worth sponsoring here, and he has always had the best prices on stuff that I've been able to find. I need to bug him to get vortex and RK stuff posted on the site so that I can just link folks to it and they can price compare immediately. I have never found a set of rearsets that didn't flex at least a little bit. But I also weigh a bit more than you, and I weight the pegs really heavily. The other advantage to using the stuff that all the other guys use is that you've always got spares floating around. quote:I'll have to toss some zipties on and see what my travel is like. When I first got the bike a buddy of mine helped me set the sag but that's all I've ever done in regards to the suspension. Respringing the rear doesn't sound like a bad idea, I'll probably go ahead and add that to my list. For 100$, it's gonna make the bike way more compliant. The other thing you can try is posting up on R6 forums and seeing if someone has a spring in that range available for your bike. Or you could call catalyst reactions tuning (https://www.feelthetrack.com) and see how much a spring would be from them, I think they're in the middle of a blowout sale and might have cheap springs available for you. quote:Thanks a ton for all the advice. It's invaluable and much appreciated, especially the suspension tips. Now the question is how quickly I'll eat through a set of soft NTECs...I hear they're good for a day or two max but they're the only thing I have a reliable hookup for right now. I wish I could do more, but without seeing you ride and the tire wear it's hard to say. If I can give one piece of advice it's to pay close attention to your pressures, they will tell you a LOT about what the tires are doing and it's especially important to keep track of them when you start to pick up speed. Remember when you're getting too much increase from cold to hot to ADD pressure, and when you don't gain enough pressure from cold to hot to remove PSI. 1-2 PSI off of ideal hot pressures will cut life by 30-50% on DOT race tires at B to A pace, 4-5PSI off is enough to destroy tires in a handful of sessions if you're really going for it on a 600 or literbike.
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Jan 30, 2011 01:46
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This is a dumb loving question, but how do you reassure your parents after you decide to get a bike? Everyone I know calls them death machines, whereas I see them as practical and efficient modes of transport.
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Jan 31, 2011 05:12
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Jr. posted:This is a dumb loving question, but how do you reassure your parents after you decide to get a bike? Everyone I know calls them death machines, whereas I see them as practical and efficient modes of transport. Don't let your parents stop you from riding. edit: Just saying that if they are the type that will always disprove of you riding a motorcycle no matter what you say, then I wouldn't let them bother me. def snow leppard fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jan 31, 2011 |
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Jan 31, 2011 05:15
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Jr. posted:This is a dumb loving question, but how do you reassure your parents after you decide to get a bike? Everyone I know calls them death machines, whereas I see them as practical and efficient modes of transport. What worked for me was not outright dismissing claims of them being death machines, but instead taking a moderate stance of, yes they are riskier than cars, but I mitigate the risk through proper gear and training. There are a dearth of responsible riders in the US that wear gear and know how to ride, so doing those two things really is showing that you're serious about it as a utilitarian and fun vehicle. You're never going to convince some people, especially when all they think is, WELL IT'S MORE DANGEROUS THAN A CAR SO WHY BOTHER DOING IT? They don't "get" that an activity may have benefits that are hard to quantify, but when experienced, become self-evident. Simply put, a ton of people don't know how to have fun.
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Jan 31, 2011 05:36
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I just went and bought a bike and then rode it home. Your parents are always going to worry about you but once they see you come home safely a few times they get over it. I've read horror stories on the internet where the parents disassemble the bike once it's home in order to stop their teenage son from riding - but I'm lucky enough to have (relatively) sane parents.
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Jan 31, 2011 06:30
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Jr. posted:This is a dumb loving question, but how do you reassure your parents after you decide to get a bike? Everyone I know calls them death machines, whereas I see them as practical and efficient modes of transport. You can't. Be informed. Know the stats from the Hurt report and how that information can make you safer. Take the MSF. Wear your gear. Explain all of that to them, and if they can't handle it, they can't. I got my first bike when I was away at college and when my mom found out, it was 3 months before she would talk to me on the phone again. She kind of came around eventually. But 12 years later and she still hates me having one. My dad on the other hand went out and bought one. It's just the way it is. I can't say I would be a whole lot different if I had a kid.
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Jan 31, 2011 06:32
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Hot Buttered posted:I got my first bike when I was away at college and when my mom found out, it was 3 months before she would talk to me on the phone again. She kind of came around eventually. But 12 years later and she still hates me having one. My dad on the other hand went out and bought one. This is my exact story, too, right down to having my dad buy a bike. Oh, except I'm only a couple years out of college.
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Jan 31, 2011 06:53
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Hey guys, bike is a 82 Seca XJ650 and I'm having trouble putting the rear wheel back on, specifically the rod that goes through it. It's in, but I have gap on the right side of the bike and can't pull it through. I've been banging on it for a few hours and I can't figure out what I'm missing here. Any tips?
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Jan 31, 2011 07:38
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Jr. posted:This is a dumb loving question, but how do you reassure your parents after you decide to get a bike? Everyone I know calls them death machines, whereas I see them as practical and efficient modes of transport. Buy one a month before christmas, right when it really starts snowing. Then wait until christmas eve and spring it on them with no warning  (true story)
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Jan 31, 2011 09:16
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When I buy a new chain from Z3n's friend here, I was planning on replacing the sprockets as well. The front sprocket is coated in a layer of rust, and it's looking a little worn, so I should just change it anyway and not question its health right? I don't really know if they need it or not, but common wisdom says replace the sprockets and chain together. With the parts the PO included was a new 42t rear sprocket. The default gearing is 18-46 which leaves the rpms at a buzzy 6000 at 70mph on a 30yo inline 4 that redlines at only 9500rpm. Dropping from a 46t to a 42t means an 8.7% reduction in revolutions, which means it'll now spin at 5500rpm at 70mph. But I feel like 4 teeth is a lot. I wanted to squeeze a little extra gas mileage out of the bike, and give the engine a little break at speed. Plus, the new rear sprocket is already bought for me which saves me some money. If I do this, how do I now calculate how much shorter the chain needs to be? There's a very similar bike model that has default 18-43 gearing and has a 106 link chain, down from my own bikes 108 link chain. Is this a good basis to go off of? Is this a fools errand and I'm messing with forces beyond my control, or is my plan to save a little money a decent one? Anybody else geared down a bike and had good or bad experiences?
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Jan 31, 2011 11:44
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Rontalvos posted:With the parts the PO included was a new 42t rear sprocket. The default gearing is 18-46 which leaves the rpms at a buzzy 6000 at 70mph on a 30yo inline 4 that redlines at only 9500rpm. Dropping from a 46t to a 42t means an 8.7% reduction in revolutions, which means it'll now spin at 5500rpm at 70mph. But I feel like 4 teeth is a lot. I had a 1980 CB750K that I rode for many years (2000 up until just a few years ago). It's pretty much the cruiser variant of the 750F, the motor was exactly the same as well as the gearing. I played around with the rear sprocket size extensively and settled on a 43 tooth rear for overall driveability. 65mph = 5000 rpm's in top with the stock 18 tooth countershaft sprocket. I didn't even notice a reduction in acceleration since you ran out of usable rpm so quickly with the stock 18/46 setup. If anything it felt quicker. The 18/46 combo is just way too low and I always felt it was mainly to keep the bike closer to it's peak torque in top gear since when these bikes were new the national speed limit was 55mph. I had a 40 tooth rear on it for a couple years as well but you had to clutch it a good bit more in 1st to get moving, very annoying in city traffic. It was great at speed though. If 1st was a little lower I'd had left it on there or maybe even dropped to a 38 or 39 tooth rear. I'd slap that 42 tooth rear on there before spending another $50 on a 1 tooth larger rear. It'll be fine and a vast improvement to the tractor-pull stock gearing. One tooth isn't going to make a huge difference, especially on a bike with such a close ratio gearbox.
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Jan 31, 2011 13:24
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Jr. posted:This is a dumb loving question, but how do you reassure your parents after you decide to get a bike? Everyone I know calls them death machines, whereas I see them as practical and efficient modes of transport. Dad outright calls my bike the Murdercycle  and pretty much thinks going any faster than normal bicycle speeds on two wheels is tantamount to instant suicide.Mom just thinks it's a silly hobby and keeps reminding me to be careful, but both of them are actually quite accepting of it and have no problem with me storing the bike at their place during the winter. The rest of the family mostly went "isn't that DANGEROUS?" and "I can't believe you're brave enough to do such a thing" etc.. I think it helped their perception of bikes a lot that one of their good friends they've known for like 35+ years absolutely loves bikes. He is the ultimate nice guy, "good christian" and all that. I guess they figured if a guy like him rides bikes, they can't be all bad. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Jan 31, 2011 |
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Jan 31, 2011 14:03
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-Inu- posted:I was kind of leaning towards the Vortex anyway. Everyone I know uses them and the adjustability does seem very nice. I hear WC pegs flex somewhat as well. Thanks for the contact, I'll shoot him an email and see what he says. I had a set of Vortex rearsets on my 954 for a short period. The rear master cylinder actuator lever sheared off, which wasn't very impressive. Xenoid posted:Hey guys, bike is a 82 Seca XJ650 and I'm having trouble putting the rear wheel back on, specifically the rod that goes through it. It's in, but I have gap on the right side of the bike and can't pull it through. I've been banging on it for a few hours and I can't figure out what I'm missing here. Any tips? So what you're saying is that you get the AXLE back on the bike and ready to bolt up, but there's a gap between the hub/brake drum/whadeva and the swingarm on the right side? If so, you've dropped/lost a wheel spacer (or less likely, a bearing) when you removed the wheel, and you probably didn't notice. ee: pics please Saga fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jan 31, 2011 |
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Jan 31, 2011 17:11
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Saga posted:So what you're saying is that you get the AXLE back on the bike and ready to bolt up, but there's a gap between the hub/brake drum/whadeva and the swingarm on the right side? If so, you've dropped/lost a wheel spacer (or less likely, a bearing) when you removed the wheel, and you probably didn't notice. edit: Easier said than done I suppose. I used an impact driver and an easy-out and now I've got a nice round hole in the rusted screw head. What do? Xenoid fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Jan 31, 2011 |
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Jan 31, 2011 21:50
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Xenoid posted:I figured it out. I didn't put the spindle in far enough and the pinch was confusing me. Now I just need to sort the brake fluid reservoir that I posted on earlier and she's good to go. Ah, I get it. On the screw, if you can't cut it, have you tried knocking a slightly oversized screwdriver into the remains of the old screw?
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Jan 31, 2011 23:27
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I killed my drill battery before I could get through the screw head unfortunately so it'll be a while still
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Jan 31, 2011 23:31
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Anyone know of a good and relatively inexpensive place to get a motorcycle tank, and tail fairings painted in the Los Angeles area?
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Feb 1, 2011 01:24
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KozmoNaut posted:
My future father in law started off by telling me how dangerous they were etc when he found out I had one, then it turned into a conversation about how he and his friends rode accross europe in his youth and then he admitted he's been thinking about getting another bike lately. Though.. not sure how to tell him his daughter wants to ride too..
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Feb 1, 2011 03:08
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Saga posted:I had a set of Vortex rearsets on my 954 for a short period. The rear master cylinder actuator lever sheared off, which wasn't very impressive. Ordered a set of Armourbodies and RaceTech rear spring for $646 today. I kind of did the inverse of Z3n's suggestion: I'm going to hawk my street fairings (50th anni stuff is very valuable, even rashed) but keep my tank since it's already dented on one side. That should make up for most of the cost of the armourbodies. I'm going to modify the race fairings slightly so I can stay street legal and just run them on the street. That way, if I crash on the street, everything is fixable with some fiberglass. If I crash on the track, everything is fixable with fiberglass. Plus it will look sweet to boot. Everybody wins! Anyone have suggestions on paint scheme? I'm going to stick with the yellow, black, and white anni colors since it matches my tank and gear. Haven't decided on a design yet, though.
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Feb 1, 2011 03:26
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everyone posted:advice I like the "mitigating the risk" line quite a bit. I was going to go the "surprise, I bought a bike" route, but I know that'll get my rear end kicked out. Hell, even when I bought a jank-rear end scooter to work on, my mom flipped. There have been stretches of four fatalities in two days of motorcyclists, hence a massive awareness campaign in town and her 'murdercycle' attitude. Ah well. I have heard that you should take the MSF course before you actually buy a bike, is that good advice? I'm confused as to whether to ride "a" bike is better than riding "your" bike. You know, get acquainted with it.
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Feb 1, 2011 03:29
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-Inu- posted:Hmm. That does sound like a boatload of fun. How did that happen? Jr, take the msf because it offers the chance to try things out on someone else's bikes without any real responsibility if it falls over, it'll give you a good core body of knowledge to learn on, and it'll give you some quality time on a bike with an instructor watching and commenting on your riding. All of those things individually are good, together they're a no brained.
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Feb 1, 2011 04:19
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Jr. posted:I have heard that you should take the MSF course before you actually buy a bike, is that good advice? I'm confused as to whether to ride "a" bike is better than riding "your" bike. You know, get acquainted with it. Definitely take the MSF first. Riding your first bike home from wherever you buy it is terrifying enough even with the class under your belt. That weekend on the class bike might also make you better informed as to what bike you actually want to buy.
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Feb 1, 2011 05:01
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OK, I have a Yamaha TT-R Enduro (95 model) and being a Road trail the brakes are Craptacular on the front. It does no Dirt work...Im running Pirelli Scorpion dual sports Tyres. Would it be worth sourcing a Supermoto style front brake? Would one actually exist that would fit??
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Feb 1, 2011 10:49
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-Inu- posted:Hmm. That does sound like a boatload of fun. How did that happen? A very flimsy bit of aluminium. Hence I'd prefer woodcraft if I were you!
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Feb 1, 2011 12:04
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Kaptainballistik posted:OK, I have a Yamaha TT-R Enduro (95 model) and being a Road trail the brakes are Craptacular on the front. Look at what other Yamahas use the same fork lowers with bigger discs. Unfortunately, I think the answer may be none in your case. The Super Tenere may use the same setup but dual disc. So you could be totally ballin by swapping a super ten front end, brakes and m/c onto your TTR. Alternatively, if you can find a larger disc in the same bolt pattern, you may be able to knock up an adapter yourself out of flat bar stock. Bonus points if it's the same offset. If someone makes one commercially, sure, it will make a difference using a bigger disc. More brake torque.
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Feb 1, 2011 15:58
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Jr. posted:There have been stretches of four fatalities in two days of motorcyclists, hence a massive awareness campaign in town and her 'murdercycle' attitude. Ah well. Show her a video like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlMbFlPzS24 where the guy's in full leathers, highsides hard, and gets up to walk it off. Then explain that the vast majority of deaths are due to people riding like this: like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UT_oJgOhEeM. There are a ton of the former examples out there, to prove that while it's dangerous, crashing isn't instant death if you're geared up. And take the MSF. Edit: The first video, the guy's wearing jeans, not leathers. Still not dead. Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Feb 1, 2011 |
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Feb 1, 2011 16:40
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chryst posted:Depending on the type of person your mom is, you can try showing her some actual crash footage that's not filtered through Fox News sensationalism. My wife is a little easier with the idea of me on a track after that. Tell your mom you'll have better form than gixxer squid in that video though :p "Mom I promise I will hang off the bike a bit more and get my head out towards the mirrors more than THAT guy when I'm doing 70+ mph on that sharp turn outside of town!!" To be helpful, I went years hearing my parents say I could never own a bike while I lived at home. I moved out, bought a bike almost immediately, and my parents ended up not really caring and just said "be careful" and that was that. They'll get over it.
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Feb 1, 2011 17:21
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JP Money posted:Tell your mom you'll have better form than gixxer squid in that video though :p "Mom I promise I will hang off the bike a bit more and get my head out towards the mirrors more than THAT guy when I'm doing 70+ mph on that sharp turn outside of town!!" 
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Feb 1, 2011 18:25
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Saga posted:A very flimsy bit of aluminium. Hence I'd prefer woodcraft if I were you! Vortex:  Woodcraft:  It's really a toss up, the brake mounts on both look equally feeble to me, although the vortex is slightly thicker metal...sounds like you just got a bad rearset. Did you try and contact them for a replacement?
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Feb 1, 2011 18:34
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Z3n posted:Woodcraft: With regular feeding and watering, the Woodcraft should eventually form a thick, strong root system. 
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Feb 2, 2011 00:38
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Bucephalus posted:With regular feeding and watering, the Woodcraft should eventually form a thick, strong root system. I carefully harvested that dirt from Turn 8 at Infineon, but it never blossomed into the beautiful stretch of runoff I felt it could have become.
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Feb 2, 2011 00:44
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I spy a Two Brothers clamp. Correct?
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Feb 2, 2011 05:44
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the walkin dude posted:I spy a Two Brothers clamp. Correct? 
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Feb 2, 2011 06:52
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