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Z3n posted:Did you try and contact them for a replacement? They wouldn't, which confirmed my opinion that they suck.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 10:49 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 17:41 |
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Ok I have a dumb question. Lets say I buy a bike from a guy on Friday evening. The DMV is closed, so I cant go register it in my name. But he has paid his registration through to the end of next month. I buy insurance online that night. Can i ride the bike over the weekend while I wait for the DMV for open? Or do I need to wait til its registered to me?
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 17:25 |
BlueBayou posted:Ok I have a dumb question. I think you'll be ok as long as you don't get pulled over. Obviously I wouldn't ride it more than to your house though, it's a little risky. Riding around your neighborhood should be ok, it's what I did.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 17:44 |
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BlueBayou posted:Ok I have a dumb question.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 17:44 |
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Last time I got a bike and re-registered it, I kept the old plates. hrm I wonder if this dude is planning to keep his plates. Anyway the only places Id ride is to my gym, and they have a parking lot, so Id like to think I'd be okay.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 18:09 |
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BlueBayou posted:Last time I got a bike and re-registered it, I kept the old plates. Does California have temporary plates? In Arizona we can go online and print out a temporary plate for $1 and its good for three days. I have no idea if you can do it with a motorcycle but I'd imagine you can.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 18:16 |
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BlueBayou posted:Ok I have a dumb question. If you have insurance, and registration, in the state of CA, you are legal able to ride it for up to 10 days. You will need proof of registration (from the PO) and proof of ownership (the title) though. In CA the plates go with the bike.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 19:12 |
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Z3n posted:If you have insurance, and registration, in the state of CA, you are legal able to ride it for up to 10 days. You will need proof of registration (from the PO) and proof of ownership (the title) though. PO? Previous owner? How do I get proof of reg from him? Ask him to bring his reg? I didnt actually buy my first bike, a friend did and rode it up from LA for me so Im a little confused as to how everything works exactly.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 19:19 |
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jdonz posted:Does California have temporary plates? In Arizona we can go online and print out a temporary plate for $1 and its good for three days. I have no idea if you can do it with a motorcycle but I'd imagine you can. Not only this, but you can get a 30 day permit. They used to not put a limit on how many you could get per year - I ended up driving my old SR20DET 240SX around on temporary tags for about a year. edit: These passes work for motorcycles too.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 19:21 |
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Saga posted:They wouldn't, which confirmed my opinion that they suck. That sucks. I'll inspect mine for any flaws and hopefully avoid any issues in the future. BlueBayou posted:PO? Previous owner? Honestly, you don't really need it. They can look it up, but it's good to have if you're a goody 2 shoes like me. He should have the registration paper and give it to you with the title. Really, if you have the title, if it's all legit, and you're under 10 days, chances are the cops will let you skate.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 19:32 |
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BlueBayou posted:Ok I have a dumb question.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 19:33 |
In Iowa and Nebraska, the seller keeps the old plates and the buyer has 30 or 90 days (I can't remember which, but I think it may actually be 90) after purchasing a bike to ride it without any plates whatsoever. However, you must have the title and a bill of sale on hand in the event of being pulled over. On the other hand, in Alaska the plates stay with the vehicle after the purchase, so the buyer gets them. Of course, the titles there have a little tear-off tab that is supposed to be signed by both the buyer and seller, stating that the ownership has been transferred. The seller drops that off at the DMV and is thereby cleared of responsibility if the vehicle gets impounded, etc.
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# ? Feb 2, 2011 23:17 |
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I just got my first bike, and on the fuel petcock there are three settings. There is On, Pri, and Reserve. Which one should I leave it on when the bike is off? We went over this in my MSF course, but none of the bikes had a Prime option on them, just on, off, and reserve. Edit: Its an 07 Suzuki DR-Z400 SM Porkchop Express fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Feb 3, 2011 |
# ? Feb 3, 2011 04:49 |
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Leave it on ON, when it runs out of gas, move it to RES. If you drain the carb, start it on PRI and move it to ON.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 05:45 |
I'd just leave it on ON, unless you notice flooding in the mornings when you go to ride it. Are you sure there isn't a 4th OFF position? Or maybe you can stick it between ON and PRI and that'll be off? In any case, you could stick another inline on/off petcock if it really bothers you.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 05:49 |
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Do any of you guys have a trick for unfreezing a motorcycle ignition? I was toying with the idea of slightly heating my key up with a lighter, but I figured I would ask here before I started torching anything.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 06:01 |
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JP Money posted:I'd just leave it on ON, unless you notice flooding in the mornings when you go to ride it. Are you sure there isn't a 4th OFF position? Or maybe you can stick it between ON and PRI and that'll be off? It doesn't bother me, I just wasn't 100% sure where to leave it at.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 06:24 |
Porkchop Express posted:It doesn't bother me, I just wasn't 100% sure where to leave it at. Well if you leave it at on and it doesn't flood then don't fix what isn't broken. You should be fine.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 06:32 |
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TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:Do any of you guys have a trick for unfreezing a motorcycle ignition? I was toying with the idea of slightly heating my key up with a lighter, but I figured I would ask here before I started torching anything. There are ready-made lock de-icers available in most Walmart type stores. You could also try regular de-icer followed by tri-flow. Also, a blowdryer to the ignition. I would avoid superheating the key itself, haha.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 06:32 |
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JP Money posted:I'd just leave it on ON, unless you notice flooding in the mornings when you go to ride it. Are you sure there isn't a 4th OFF position? Or maybe you can stick it between ON and PRI and that'll be off? Congrats on the bike, Porkchop!
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 06:35 |
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:There are ready-made lock de-icers available in most Walmart type stores. You could also try regular de-icer followed by tri-flow. Also, a blowdryer to the ignition. I would avoid superheating the key itself, haha. In an emergency, boiling water from a kettle over the lock barrel.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 08:08 |
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Saga posted:In an emergency, boiling water from a kettle over the lock barrel. A few weeks ago I was in a gas station, a young guy next to me had his passenger door all frozen up. He had a real smug look on his face when he came out of the gas station with a large pot of hot water the attendant provided. It probably unfroze his door quite fast, but guess what happens ten minutes after driving away, with a soaking wet door in ten degrees below freezing...
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 13:08 |
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TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:Do any of you guys have a trick for unfreezing a motorcycle ignition? I was toying with the idea of slightly heating my key up with a lighter, but I figured I would ask here before I started torching anything. I've had to do this a few times, but don't redden the key, heat it up till its just slightly too hot to touch, pop it in, leave it for a few seconds, take it out, heat it again, do this a few times before you try to turn it. Its a last resort though, you can buy small cans of aerosol de-icer specifically for defrosting locks and keep it in your backpack.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 14:04 |
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Ola posted:A few weeks ago I was in a gas station, a young guy next to me had his passenger door all frozen up. He had a real smug look on his face when he came out of the gas station with a large pot of hot water the attendant provided. It probably unfroze his door quite fast, but guess what happens ten minutes after driving away, with a soaking wet door in ten degrees below freezing... I'd be more concerned about thermal expansion issues.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 14:40 |
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Ola posted:A few weeks ago I was in a gas station, a young guy next to me had his passenger door all frozen up. He had a real smug look on his face when he came out of the gas station with a large pot of hot water the attendant provided. It probably unfroze his door quite fast, but guess what happens ten minutes after driving away, with a soaking wet door in ten degrees below freezing... I've done it a few times with my car and had no problems, but then we don't have winters as cold as yours. Having the heater on for a 30-40 minute commute keeps it from icing up again.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 15:37 |
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There's too many options for rear shocks and I can't find the suspension thread. What are folks' opinions on: Ohlins Works Performance Hagon YSS Penske Racetech Progressive Ikon
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 17:06 |
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For what? Ohlins, WP and Penske make nice fancy shocks (see also Nitron, Bitubo). Hagon makes rebuildable replacement items and can do monoshocks sprung to suit (see also EMC). Racetech and Progressive Suspension sell springs and rebuild kits(?)
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 17:42 |
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Z3n posted:Congrats on the bike, Porkchop! Thanks! Say does anyone have any advice for someone who has never worked on a motorcycle before? I consider myself pretty handy for someone who has never had any sort of formal training. I have replaced standard stuff like alternators and starters on cars, and other minor stuff here and there, but never anything like adjusting a clutch or anything like that. So I guess my question is how can I prepare myself for the tasks that will be ahead to maintain my bike? I am generally not one to jump right in to something without some type of reading, so are there any books I should read that might give me a little better understanding and prepare me for bike maintenance?
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 17:46 |
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Saga posted:For what? My '08 Triumph Scrambler needs some aftermarket shocks, but I'm looking for comparisons in general. I know Ohlins is usually considered top of the heap, with Penske a close second, but not many folks have experience with Racetech shocks. In the States Hagons are kind of rare, Works are also rare for some reason, YSS is the new kid on the block for good shocks, Progressive and Ikon are the cheap bastards. Porkchop Express posted:Thanks! Ignore the JESUS OUR SAVIOR stuff and poke around here. Skier fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Feb 3, 2011 |
# ? Feb 3, 2011 17:52 |
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Skier posted:Ignore the JESUS OUR SAVIOR stuff and poke around here. Hey thanks, that looks like it will be pretty handy! (Except the Bible quotes, I don't need those!)
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 18:17 |
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Skier posted:There's too many options for rear shocks and I can't find the suspension thread. What are folks' opinions on: I have tracked bikes with any of the bold shocks. They were all great. The most important thing with shocks is getting the correct spring rates and the correct setup. The beauty of an aftermarket shock is that it should be set up right for you, your weight, and your bike. Any of the bolded ones should last you effectively forever and be completely rebuildable. I'd go with the cheapest or the one that has the most experience with your bike, especially if you can find one that knows about how to set up sidecar configured bikes correctly, as I'd imagine that does odd things to the bike.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 18:37 |
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I've been looking around for a 1 piece suit for track days, and noticed the Frank Thomas XTi II 1 piece suit on sale for $200+tax. Anyone have any experience with this suit? Was reading that it's pretty good for the price which is normally a $600~ suit, but I'm a little leery because of the huge sale. Looking for more hands on usage stories.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 20:37 |
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DrCornelius posted:I've been looking around for a 1 piece suit for track days, and noticed the Frank Thomas XTi II 1 piece suit on sale for $200+tax. Anyone have any experience with this suit? We bought the Venus version of that suit for the wife, it's quite nice. I've always been a big fan of FT gear, it's excellent gear without the price of the more well known stuff. I'd probably replace the internal armor, either with a compression armor suit, or forcefield stuff, but I'd buy one for traackdays, if they fit me.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 21:33 |
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Skier posted:My '08 Triumph Scrambler needs some aftermarket shocks, but I'm looking for comparisons in general. Obviously Ohlins do good stuff, but I'm not sure about the non-adjustable (OK, preload only or something) items they make for the Bonne, which presumably they do for your scrambler... On the plus side, cheap Ohlins. On the downside, it's a lot of money for something you can't set up for changing surface, temperatures etc. I've had a couple Ohlins. My current one's a bit weird - it's super-sensitive to damping adjustments (had to turn it up for summer and then turn it down for winter and the wrong settings make it way harsh), whereas my TRX shock, despite being the same design, seemed to just have a range of good settings. Hagon aren't really a performance shock - they're a solid OEM replacement which is rebuildable and comes sprung for your weight, which is great when the OEM shock dies. E.g. the OEM shock on my Hornet is non-rebuildable junk from the 1980s (no, really, they are actually from Showa's NC 29 parts bin). EMC are similar. Nitron's sport shocks are supposed to be excellent value for money, at least where I am, and look bitchin. Don't know if they do a twinshock for the Triumph twins.
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# ? Feb 3, 2011 23:30 |
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Saga posted:I've had a couple Ohlins. My current one's a bit weird - it's super-sensitive to damping adjustments (had to turn it up for summer and then turn it down for winter and the wrong settings make it way harsh), whereas my TRX shock, despite being the same design, seemed to just have a range of good settings. What's the rebuild status on your current one? Sounds like the shim stack is set to allow too wide a range of potential settings for your needs. Seems like that gets done when people want to run both track and street on the same shock.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 00:25 |
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I had a weird idea tonight. We all know that bikes counter steer, and that at higher speeds, it's more difficult to turn a bike in to a corner, right? Now ignore for a moment the final drive of a motorcycle - what if the rear wheel could also pivot laterally, like the front end, to help with turn in/handling? Think hub-steering but connecting the back to the front as well, so in effect you're turning both wheels to lean. What would the effects of this be like on handling? Being the rear tire, would it even help it lean, or would it just rotate the whole bike? I'm not sure on the physics, my thought-experiment for it isn't really working. Obviously it wouldn't move that much, just like front ends dont much *that* much at speed, and I'm only talking for counter-steering princibles, ignoring low speed manuvering. I think it would be interesting to try.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 04:00 |
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I can't imagine the chain would like that too much.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 04:08 |
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blugu64 posted:I can't imagine the chain would like that too much. I SAID IGNORE THE FINAL DRIVE!!! I mean... I'm sure that could be fixed with a rigid support beam and a crazy CV-joint of some sort It's more of a "what-if and deal with the engineering later" kind of question.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 04:16 |
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This would probably be a good start: Two wheel steering. Also a three wheel drive 'busa hack demonstrating a CV joint for a steering wheel also being driven: here and here. Actually that hack has two wheel steering as well, but it's two out of three so whatever. Thanks for the shocktalk guys. I have an Ohlins on my 599 but it's been too snowy and icy and rainy out to take the solo bike, so I can't see if it was worth the bucks. It's gotta beat my busted stocker after the miles and abuse I put on it. Skier fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Feb 4, 2011 |
# ? Feb 4, 2011 06:28 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 17:41 |
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Skier posted:This would probably be a good start: On mine, the factory-recommended settings seem to be right for winter use, probably because they were developed in the blazing heat of a Scandinavian spring. I found I had to go a click or two up on the damping for hot weather - the bike starts to wallow once you get above 20c.
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# ? Feb 4, 2011 09:52 |