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How much does the weight of person influence a first bike purchase? I'm 6'0, 230lbs with a pretty wide frame. Will a Ninja 250 be awkward to handle? What kind of things should be taken into consideration, if anything?
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Feb 5, 2011 15:40
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House Party 4 posted:How much does the weight of person influence a first bike purchase? I'm 6'0, 230lbs with a pretty wide frame. Will a Ninja 250 be awkward to handle? What kind of things should be taken into consideration, if anything? Go sit on one and see. The primary consideration for your first bike should always be getting a motorcycle that lets you safely develop the basic skills needed for riding. You want something small, forgiving of rookie mistakes, and cheap in case of a tip over or accident. The thing about motorcycles is that every style of bike is very different. People will start on one type of bike because that's what they think they want, and then discover that there's something about another type of bike that they really love. Having a cheap beginner bike means you can sell that bike to another beginner, and buy what you now know you want. Your first bike is about building experience so you can figure out what you really want, and building the skills to move to a new bike safely. Z3n fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Feb 5, 2011 |
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Feb 5, 2011 16:12
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House Party 4 posted:How much does the weight of person influence a first bike purchase? I'm 6'0, 230lbs with a pretty wide frame. Will a Ninja 250 be awkward to handle? What kind of things should be taken into consideration, if anything? I knew a guy roughly the same height and weight who used a Ninja 250 as a training course bike, and he seemed to have no problems. If anything, the rest of us on our Super Sherpa put-puts were a little jealous. If you can try it out in a parking lot before purchasing, though, you should. (FWIW: I'm same height and 10 pounds heavier, and I ride an early-eighties sportbike. I have yet to hear any bear-on-a-tricycle type comments.)
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Feb 5, 2011 18:55
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Thank you guys. Interesting points Z3n, I appreciate the thought. Also, bear-on-a-tricycle is something I won't soon forget.
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Feb 5, 2011 20:32
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Anyone have any tips for starting a bike in cold weather? I finally got some interest in my KLR and the dude came by to look at it today but I couldn't get it started. The battery (which didn't have much charge to begin with) ran out of power cranking. He said he'd probably come by again sometime this week and it's supposed to be around -20 to -25 celcius. He said he would give a heads up before he came though so right now I'm thinking just charge the battery fully and a heater pointed at the engine.
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Feb 7, 2011 00:28
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This may be covered somewhere in the 9000 posts in the this thread, but is there an alternative to the first bike website there? That link no longer works.
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Feb 7, 2011 03:04
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DrCornelius posted:I've been looking around for a 1 piece suit for track days, and noticed the Frank Thomas XTi II 1 piece suit on sale for $200+tax. Anyone have any experience with this suit? Some of the new 2011 jackets that are CG exclusive (branded differently) are actually using Knox armour now, so the quality is on the rise. Personally, I wouldn't wear anything that currently holds a FT tag; nor would either of the other 2 guys I work with who do trackdays/race. Take that as you will.
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Feb 7, 2011 04:43
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What do you guys recommend for tires for an '88 Honda Hawk? My rear's cracking between the tread, and I don't trust it at all, so I've been looking around. I'm thinking about grabbing a pair of Diablo Rossos, but was curious if anyone had thoughts/recommendations.
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Feb 7, 2011 06:00
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-Inu- posted:Depends. If you truly can't afford a name-brand suit, and you're running novice pace, the FT would suffice I suppose. As far as critique specific to the suit itself, the only thing I've seen is one fall apart on the hanger (bad stitching) and we had 3-4 with the internal liners sewn wrong (couldn't put your leg through one side). I've seen one crash tested at Jennings where a shoulder panel completely blew out. The guy was running A pace though, and it did protect him. It's not a $600 suit though, and it doesn't have the quality of one. But, if it fits you, you should be okay. Just please replace the armour that it comes with -- the stuff that comes with it is just scary. The thing about any gear that isn't custom made/super heavy duty is that its only guaranteed to be good for one crash. Even then sometimes the heavy duty stuff will be done after one crash. I've seen the most expensive suits fail in one low speed crash, and seen 200$ suits last for multiple high speed crashes. The important thing is that the gear protects you for one crash, and I haven't seen a FT suit that fails in a crash situation such that it causes injury yet. As always, you should carefully inspect the stitching and panels on any gear you purchase, sometimes factories make mistakes.
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Feb 7, 2011 06:22
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Z3n posted:I just have to say...the pace you're running has very little to do with how fast you're going when you crash. I've seen newbs toss themselves off the track at insane speeds and experts crash in the slowest corner on the track. quote:The thing about any gear that isn't custom made/super heavy duty is that its only guaranteed to be good for one crash. Even then sometimes the heavy duty stuff will be done after one crash. I've seen the most expensive suits fail in one low speed crash, and seen 200$ suits last for multiple high speed crashes. The important thing is that the gear protects you for one crash, and I haven't seen a FT suit that fails in a crash situation such that it causes injury yet.  Every single one of those has a crack somewhere in the outer plastic providing ankle/heel protection. Deep enough so the piece is split into two. One of them has a leather panel in front that the stitching came out on. None of them have been crashed in. Most of them aren't even dirty. If Alpinestars made boots that consistently failed from light casual use, I would not wear their leathers either.
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Feb 7, 2011 07:10
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And haven't you said that their gloves are seemingly made from cardboard and gum as well? I dunno, I wouldn't trust their entire line of gear because of those two strikes.
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Feb 7, 2011 07:16
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I've got a Frankenstein project bike and am having clutch issues. The bike is a 1988 YSR50, the engine is a 1996 YZ 125. I don't have enough clutch travel right now...if I adjust it so it disengages completely the clutch slips like crazy. If I adjust it so I full engages the clutch won't disengage enough. So how do I get more travel out of a clutch lever/cable? I think the bike currently has the YSR clutch controls so maybe the easy answer is to pick up the perch/lever/cable for a 96 YZ and throw that on.
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Feb 7, 2011 14:26
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-Inu- posted:Oh no, definitely true that someone running N class could throw themselves off the bike at 130mph into a fence just as easily as someone running A. From what I've seen though, novices run at a snail's pace compared to I/A groups. I said that because in general I feel that the risk of a very high speed crash is lower than in higher groups. Not impossible, maybe not improbable, but a lower risk. I probably shouldn't have said that, though. The biggest issue with novices is trying to push too hard in the wrong places, sometimes ending up in accidents that experts wouldn't get involved in. quote:Sure. I've got a Dai one-piece sitting in back that went off once at Jennings that is completely mangled. I just have a hard time recommending FT gear to anyone after some of the stuff I've seen. Like I said I don't really have anything bad to say about their leathers specifically. I've seen unacceptable failures in their boots and gloves though. I only have experience with their leathers...that's good to know about their boots though. I can't find an online version of the test that I saw that ranked them over A* in seam strength. The other thing about today's world is that a company doesn't make it's gear in the same place anymore...different pieces of gear will end up at different factories. But I'm gonna look carefully over the wife's Venus suit when I have a chance and see if there's any obvious flaws in it, apparently we got one of the last ones in the states. Nitrospazz, I'd probably swap any fullsize clutch perch onto it and see if that fixes it...you probably have some spares floating around, yeah?
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Feb 7, 2011 18:21
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I hope one of you mechanically inclined goons can help me out here. I have a 2005 Ducati Monster 620. It has about 8000 miles on it, and I got the 6000 mile service done at about 7000 miles, so it hasn't been that long since the bike had a good one-over. All the mechanics that have looked at the bike have recommended to me that I warm the bike up before riding it, so I usually choke it up to 1500-2000 RPMs and let it sit for 5 or so minutes; until the temperature readout starts showing something other than 'LOW'. A few weeks ago, I run out, start her up, and run back in to brush my teeth before heading out to work. I come out a few minutes later to find the engine warm, but off. Kind of odd, since it started up without an issue, then ran for probably 7 or 8 minutes, then cut itself off. This with it being choked up a bit. I think "huh" then start it up (starts right up, no issues) then ride off to work without incident. On the way home, I'm in heavy traffic, and am clutching a lot when the engine dies on me. Still rolling, I hit the starter and it starts right up and I again, go home without incident. A week later, I start it up and sit with it while it warms up to see if it kills itself again, but it doesn't, so I ride off to work. After work if finally fails to start. The starter is turning the engine, but it won't catch. My dad, who is somewhat mechanically inclined said that it might be a clogged fuel filter since I have run it out of gas twice, once fairly recently. Do you think it could be the fuel filter? Are there any other suggestions on possible culprits? I'm happy to further describe my issue if that will help. Thanks! Edit: I guess should mention that while riding during this mysterious time prior to it refusing to start, I did feel like I wasn't getting as much power through the band as I usually do, like it was sluggish when being given gas.
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Feb 7, 2011 20:08
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IF you're a size 44 or 46, motorcyclecloseouts are a good bet. http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/sport/leather+motorcycle+suits/fieldsheer_flex+1+piece+race+suit I thought about buying one but I never take my bike to the track.
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Feb 7, 2011 20:11
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Z3n posted:Nitrospazz, I'd probably swap any fullsize clutch perch onto it and see if that fixes it...you probably have some spares floating around, yeah? I think we have some spares that I might be able to make work. I'll give that a shot, really want to start messing around on this thing.
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Feb 7, 2011 20:18
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AhhYes posted:I hope one of you mechanically inclined goons can help me out here. If it were my bike, I'd dump some seafoam in the tank and run it hard. I'd also check and see if the battery is in good shape, because if it's low on battery power from not being ridden regularly, you could have issues with fuel delivery.
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Feb 7, 2011 20:29
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Z3n posted:If it were my bike, I'd dump some seafoam in the tank and run it hard. I'd also check and see if the battery is in good shape, because if it's low on battery power from not being ridden regularly, you could have issues with fuel delivery. I know for sure that the battery was in good shape. I ride it at minimum once per week, and typically 2-4 times per week. Can you explain the seafoam thing a bit? I've never heard of it. Edit: I did the sensible thing and read up on seafoam, but my question now is this: Will dumping seafoam into the tank help it start? I can't run it hard if I can't get it to start! AhhYes fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 20:34
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AhhYes posted:I know for sure that the battery was in good shape. I ride it at minimum once per week, and typically 2-4 times per week. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506289&CAWELAID=571979069 Dump the appropriate amount of this stuff in with a new tank of gas, and proceed to ride the bike like you stole it. edit: can be found at autoparts and hardware stores AncientTV fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 20:39
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AhhYes posted:I know for sure that the battery was in good shape. I ride it at minimum once per week, and typically 2-4 times per week. Have you tried giving it a bit of throttle as it starts? Playing with the choke adjustment? Also, you have a full tank of gas in it, correct?
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Feb 7, 2011 20:44
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Z3n posted:Have you tried giving it a bit of throttle as it starts? Playing with the choke adjustment? Also, you have a full tank of gas in it, correct? Yeah, I tried to give it gas when it was turning, and also tried to choke it up. When I'd press the starter, it tries and tries to catch, for a preset number of times then it stops until I press the starter again. Twisting the throttle and choking it up during that time had no effect. The tank isn't full, but I can hear it sloshing, so I know it has some in there. Edit: I initially thought it might be a bad tank of gas, since it would start fine but then give up, and since I was also feeling like it was sluggish at higher speeds. This is what gave rise to the fuel filter hypothesis. I'd love to try the seafoam thing, but if I can't get it started...
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Feb 7, 2011 20:47
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AhhYes posted:Yeah, I tried to give it gas when it was turning, and also tried to choke it up. When I'd press the starter, it tries and tries to catch, for a preset number of times then it stops until I press the starter again. Twisting the throttle and choking it up during that time had no effect. I've seen bikes that will slosh with gas in them but won't start because the fuel pools below the pickup. Usually you have difficulty getting the last bit of gas in. I'd add at least a gallon and see if it fires up then.
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Feb 7, 2011 21:08
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Z3n posted:I've seen bikes that will slosh with gas in them but won't start because the fuel pools below the pickup. Usually you have difficulty getting the last bit of gas in. I'd add at least a gallon and see if it fires up then. I'll give this a shot, of course. I just realized that I forgot what could be an important piece of info. The day I had to tow it away from work, it actually did start normally. Then while I was waiting for it to warm up, it died and wouldn't start again. The only reason I think that this isn't "you just don't have any gas moron" is that it did this same thing previously where it ran for awhile then died. Then there was the time it died on the road. That and its only been about 70 miles since I filled up and I regularly get over 100 per tank.
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Feb 7, 2011 21:32
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AhhYes posted:I'll give this a shot, of course. Putting a quarter of a tank of nice fresh guzzoline in there certainly wont hurt. Can you smell fuel at the exhausts after trying to start it? Have you checked to see if you're getting spark? I don't know the electrical configuration on your bike but Italian bikes aren't exactly known for outstanding electricals. Pull a plug and touch the thread to the cylinder head while you crank it and see if there is a good spark. Your bike is injection. The random stalling at low revs / stopped at lights isn't entirely uncommon to injected bikes. The injected KTMs are notorious for it. Some systems aren't happy if the battery is even the slightest bit weak, did they put in a new one when they did the 6k service? While doing a quick google for the user manual for your bike I saw a couple of posts that bemoaned the fuel line connections, apparently they can work loose. Ducati apparently make you take your bike in to the OFFICIAL DUCATI AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP for absolutely everything nowadays, including changing some bulbs. Couldn't find a service or user PDF  poor show, Ducati.
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Feb 7, 2011 22:00
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ReelBigLizard posted:Ducati apparently make you take your bike in to the OFFICIAL DUCATI AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP for absolutely everything nowadays, including changing some bulbs. Couldn't find a service or user PDF Man that sounds like the same thing we go through at work when working on trucks. "Ok let me just change this headlight switch here... Huh thats weird, it doesn't work, maybe I will try another one. Wow, that doesn't work either, how could I have two switches right out of the box bad?" *Phones dealer* "Yeah when you change a switch you have to bring it in, so we can turn the switch on in the trucks computer, it costs an hours labor." 
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Feb 7, 2011 22:48
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AhhYes posted:I have a 2005 Ducati Monster 620. Plugs. Don't let it idle for 6-8 minutes, that's absolutely bullshit. Also this: http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
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Feb 7, 2011 23:41
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Anyone tried the hyperlite kits for their brake lights? I was thinking it might be a good investment, it certainly seems attention grabbing from the videos they show. http://www.hyperlites.com/ Anyone have any experience with them?
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Feb 8, 2011 00:09
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Porkchop Express posted:Anyone tried the hyperlite kits for their brake lights? I was thinking it might be a good investment, it certainly seems attention grabbing from the videos they show. Jesus those are bright, I bet the running lights would even deter tailgaters. I had the backoff modulator on my VFR, which you can wire into your stock taillights for half the price if you think they are up to the job. It worked as it was supposed to and I never got hit, so meh. Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 00:34
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Gnaghi posted:Jesus those are bright, I bet the running lights would even deter tailgaters. That definitely looks like a cheaper way to go, but then again I wouldn't mind having some super bright LED tail lights.
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Feb 8, 2011 00:51
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Retsalb posted:Plugs. Don't let it idle for 6-8 minutes, that's absolutely bullshit. Really? Both mechanics said that riding the engine cold was bad for it, and to let it get to triple digits temp-wise. If I don't have to do that, then great. Replace the plugs eh? Another cheap and try-able solution. Thanks!
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Feb 8, 2011 01:17
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I think pretty much every modern engine is fine with pulling away cold. On my carbed bike, I let it run until it settles. There are some very definitive stages of mechanical noise that take a few seconds to smooth out. Pull away as soon as throttle response is crisp, choke off once I'm riding. Fouled plugs should clean up by themselves at normal running temperatures and some frisky throttle use, if it won't start you can just take them out and clean them - although new ones are cheap and new plugs makes you feel all fresh like you've got new socks on. Ola fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 01:33
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I would have the battery tested at your local *zone or whatever. Batteries that are on the edge of being good can cause a bike to act very funny. If a lot of your ride is in traffic and at low RPMs you could be slowly draining your battery due to a lack of RPMs necessary to really charge the battery. Did you get the thing started again? Have you charged the battery? Weird intermittent stuff like that is almost always an indication of a battery issue in my experience. I think the reason you're being told to warm the bike up is because your bike is aircooled and Italian. In my experience aircooled bikes performance is a bit worse when ridden cold. Some bikes really act lovely when ridden cold. Carefully warming up an engine is from what I have been told the best way to do it. I always carefully warm up my yz250 and my rd350 because they have aftermarket pistons that don't warm up nearly as quickly as stock pistons. If your Ducati doesn't act up when ridden cold, I'd just start it and ride it choked.
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Feb 8, 2011 02:46
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Got another query for the CA patients: I want a vintage Japanese standard to tool around on and today in San Diego, three were posted! If you buy any of these yourself before I have got one, terrible karma shall rain down upon you. Basically, which one of these is the best deal, considering I have minimal mechanic experience (I can do brakes, oil, and coolant but am willing to learn more) and minimal money ($2800 is the absolute max, the lower the better by far). http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/2202542596.html A 1971 CB350... http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/2202524654.html A 1977 CB550 beauty, and... http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/2202496054.html a 1983 CB1000 best. I'm kinda leaning towards the CB350 since it looks OK and the price is right, but are these other bikes WAY better buys? edit: Or what about this Zook: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/2201128256.html Radbot fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 02:52
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Is this your first bike? Get the 350 or 550. My dad has a 900 and a 1000 and the shaft jacking is really bad on those bikes. When you goose the throttle the bike raises up like 2 inches. I really don't like it, but my dad has about 100lbs on me so he doesn't notice it as much.
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Feb 8, 2011 05:20
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I owned an old CB350 for a short period of time. It vibrated so much at highway speeds it was miserable. You would want to stick to surface streets if you got that. It seems to me that old Japanese bikes have jumped in price recently which kinda sucks if you're in the market. I would think the 550 would have the same vibration issues, but I've never ridden one.
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Feb 8, 2011 06:55
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If you're not a big fan of those types of bikes, what do you recommend in the $2200 more or less range, considering i'm in san diego?
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Feb 8, 2011 07:17
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AhhYes posted:I hope one of you mechanically inclined goons can help me out here. When's the last time it had a valve adjustment? Out of spec valves can cause random stalls as well as an extremely hard-to-start motor, hot or cold. My CBR was acting lovely for the longest time and I tried everything from cleaning the carbs to replacing the air filter to rejetting...nope, just needed a valve adjustment.
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Feb 8, 2011 08:23
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:When's the last time it had a valve adjustment? Out of spec valves can cause random stalls as well as an extremely hard-to-start motor, hot or cold. My CBR was acting lovely for the longest time and I tried everything from cleaning the carbs to replacing the air filter to rejetting...nope, just needed a valve adjustment. Belts on his bike wouldn't be due until 12k I think, but I don't know if the desmo adjustment is at 6k or 12k. It could be they're hosed it up, but it's so much more likely to be an electrical problem than fuel or a misadjusted valve.
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Feb 8, 2011 10:25
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:When's the last time it had a valve adjustment? Out of spec valves can cause random stalls as well as an extremely hard-to-start motor, hot or cold. My CBR was acting lovely for the longest time and I tried everything from cleaning the carbs to replacing the air filter to rejetting...nope, just needed a valve adjustment. I got the valves adjusted just over 1k miles ago, so I'm almost positive it isn't that. I shouldn't need that again for another 4500 miles or so.
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Feb 8, 2011 14:07
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I just finished rebuilding my carburetors on an '83 Honda cb650sc and was left with two springs that for the life of me I can't seem to find where they go.  I know that they are spring #8 but the schematic is difficult for me to understand. Anyone familiar with these carbs that may be able to tell me I would greatly appreciate it.
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Feb 8, 2011 20:43
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