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Tactical Bonnet posted:Everything I've seen says step one is remove the knob so you can remove the center console and thus remove the part of the dash around the head unit and heater/AC controls. What I was asking was whether or not it was possible to do without completely removing the center console(since it's stuck with the shift knob), apparently it is possible. So it's this? http://www.miata.net/faq/mfield_files/image020.jpg Looks like your boned for getting it out.
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# ? Feb 20, 2011 20:34 |
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# ? May 24, 2024 17:35 |
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I'm buying my Miata today. Drove it yesterday, I'm happy. It's a 90. It's affordable. Edit, google is my friend. magnificent7 fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Feb 20, 2011 |
# ? Feb 20, 2011 20:49 |
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Hope this isnt a dumb suggestion, but are you sure the knib is glued on? My girl has a 2003 NB with that same shifter, and i think there is a hidden screw on it you need to remove before taking it off... Not glue.
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# ? Feb 20, 2011 21:27 |
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4000 Dollar Suit posted:So this at guy my work wants to outright trade his '01 Miata 1.8 with 140,000 miles on it for my '98 Integra LS 2Door with 85,000 (possibly rolled back by previous owner). That sounds like an amazing deal. Assuming he hasn't messed with the engine directly or suspension. The intake probably won't hurt anything and I bet you'd be able to trade the rice exhaust for stock with some other young kid. Make sure you check the top and back window. You probably won't see any of the rust that the NA's have to deal with, but is probably good to check around the rocker panels. I'd go for it.
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# ? Feb 20, 2011 22:45 |
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~FIN
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 00:40 |
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This is being delivered to my house on Friday. '99 garage kept miata with 118000 miles. $4500, http://imgur.com/a/uOLk3#k0IiE
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 00:51 |
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First Time Caller posted:This is being delivered to my house on Friday. '99 garage kept miata with 118000 miles. $4500,
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 01:07 |
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It's been like a hundred years, but a while back I asked what I should do about changing the head unit in my 95M and someone recommended Crutchfield. Earlier today I was able to not only call and talk immediately to a real-live american person(the call centoer I deal with at work is all people who speak english as a second/third language the it creates a pretty difficult barrier sometimes), but I was able to get a head unit with aux in, a USB in(iPod and also USB .mp3) for $99.99(I had set a budget of $100), and got the dash kit, wiring harness and some other little wire thing I apparently need all for free. The guy was also super helpful and the whole process took about ten minutes. With free shipping it will all arrive thursday, which is my next day off. As an aside, it is completely possible to remove the center console while the shift knob is still attached, and in finding out I also found out that the rubber shift boot is torn out. Does anyone have that parts list for just redoing the whole turret? I'm going to solve all of my problems at once by just removi9ng the entire shift level assembly so I can wrench the stuck knob off and if I destroy it just replacing the entire assembly.
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 01:28 |
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Any Mazdaspeed Miata owners here ? I am in the market for a car now and there is one at a dealer near me. 2004 with 28k for 13,980. I have never seen one in the wild, and that price doesn't seem too bad. I read they are really generous with the turbo though, but there are mods to smooth the power out when it kicks in. I want to have some fun, but I don't want to kill myself with it either. Is that a real thing or people just being too nitpicky ? Trying to decide between that, a mariner blue 90 with 74k miles for 5k, or an RX-8 we have at work. Both of them are going to need a roll bar, but the NA will likely need the timing belt changed and some other stuff too. Even after that it would still be cheapest though.
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 06:44 |
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This is what I had to say about the Mazdaspeed Miata last year (and late 2009):Phone posted:The fuel cutoff is at 6500rpm instead of 7000rpm, and the boost kicks in at 4000; there's only 2.5k of "go fast" in the car. The IC is the size of a navel orange, so there's massive heat soak issues. Apparently the head in the US MSMs have softer valve springs than the Japanese one (6.5k vs 7k). And in order to fix heat soak issues and to be able to be in boost for more than 1 second at 4k, you basically need to rip out and replace of the turbo parts. I'm going to make the same recommendation and suggest you look for an early NC instead. Like 4 less horsepower, but much more comfortable to drive. e: Looking locally, first page on CL shows me a decent amount of NCs with less than 45k on the clock and under $15k. e2: VVV - Not true, they both handle like a dream and are severely underpowered Phone fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Feb 21, 2011 |
# ? Feb 21, 2011 06:53 |
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The 90 sounds overpriced unless its absolutely mint. The rx8 vs mazdaspeed is pretty difficult, they are very different vehicles. You may be able to find a nice NC in that price range too.
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 06:54 |
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The Mazdaspeed is a good car. All the small things add up, like the like body kit, seats, engine stuff, spoiler, pedals, mirror, Bilsteins and frame stiffening stuff. There are plenty of valid complaints about it, but Mazda has not made another better Miata since. Plus you get the rarity of a special edition car. You can buy a lot of off-the-shelf and inexpensive parts to rectify most of the problems with it, anyway.
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 14:08 |
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Phone posted:This is what I had to say about the Mazdaspeed Miata last year (and late 2009): Couldn't agree with you more. I just test drove a 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata on saturday and absolutely loved the car in every way except for the power delivery. You're spot on when you say the car feels like it only has 2500rpm of "go fast". The 6-speed that they used in the Mazdaspeed Miata, however, was the best feeling gearbox I've ever used. It almost made me forget about the power delivery. The suspension also felt a lot better, even though it was stiffer, it soaked up the bumps more smoothly than my 2000 LS Miata did. The power delivery/torque curve just sucks though.
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 14:56 |
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revmoo posted:You can buy a lot of off-the-shelf and inexpensive parts to rectify most of the problems with it, anyway. To rectify the comically small turbo issue, you're looking at about $3-4k in parts.
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 15:14 |
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Okay: Getting frustrated now. My '92 doesn't shift too well and I'm almost certain it's due to clutch drag (you can notice a small drop in revs when its in gear with the clutch in). I have a new slave cylinder, new master cylinder, whole system is bled, I even adjusted the pedal to engage way further out so I could push the clutch in 'further'. Same problem. Any ideas?
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 15:58 |
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beatdown posted:The 90 sounds overpriced unless its absolutely mint. The rx8 vs mazdaspeed is pretty difficult, they are very different vehicles. You may be able to find a nice NC in that price range too. Generally speaking, how much is it worth ? Also I think they sold the RX-8 over the weekend too, oh well
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 17:44 |
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Brain Issues posted:Couldn't agree with you more. I just test drove a 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata on saturday and absolutely loved the car in every way except for the power delivery. You're spot on when you say the car feels like it only has 2500rpm of "go fast". The 6-speed that they used in the Mazdaspeed Miata, however, was the best feeling gearbox I've ever used. It almost made me forget about the power delivery. The suspension also felt a lot better, even though it was stiffer, it soaked up the bumps more smoothly than my 2000 LS Miata did. The power delivery/torque curve just sucks though. Yeah, it really is a fun car to drive, and it comes in some of Mazda's best colors ever to boot (Velocity Red, mmmm). The flip side is that if you want a turbo NB, you could pretty easily pick up a regular / early NB for $4-5k and spend the remaining budget on one hell of an overall package that would utterly shame the MSM.
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# ? Feb 21, 2011 18:07 |
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Nodoze posted:Any Mazdaspeed Miata owners here ? I am in the market for a car now and there is one at a dealer near me. 2004 with 28k for 13,980. I have never seen one in the wild, and that price doesn't seem too bad. I read they are really generous with the turbo though, but there are mods to smooth the power out when it kicks in. I want to have some fun, but I don't want to kill myself with it either. Is that a real thing or people just being too nitpicky ? I actually JUST bought a 2004 with 14k miles on it a few months ago. Overall, I'm totally in love with the car. It's so much faster than a normal Miata, it corners better (keep in mind while I'm not an auto expert I've owned 2 prior to this, a 1990 with standard trim and a 2000 LS). It looks better, sounds better, and overall brings lots of smiles. With that said.. The shifting is too short in the lower gears. The first couple of weeks I had it I constantly hit the rev limiter in first because the gearing is way to short. It's a little annoying on a daily drive (this is my second car though, my primary is an Xterra) The gearing can be changed, however. What everyone says about the power delivery is accurate, you don't really see it until later on in the RPM range. Mine hits it a lot sooner though as I have the FM intake upgrade, FM exhaust and cat.. the power delivery is much smoother and honestly the car is noticeably faster. Mine came with the older intake kit though that has the VTA BOV, which I may replace with their new BOV. It also has a hard dog rollbar, FM intercooler (which I added) and they shortened the shift a little (sometimes it doesn't want to go into reverse and the reverse lights never come on.... I actually don't like this modification at all and if I can figure out how to reverse it I will). Overall I am very pleased with the car. I think the only downside is that it's much easier to get in trouble with this car than a standard Miata. Edit: the tip on the FM exhaust is 3"... which is dangerously close to looking like a fart can funny thing is the piping is only 2.5" Old car (2000LS): http://www.nerocom.us/temp/car/car1.jpg New Car (2004MSM): http://www.nerocom.us/temp/car/miata2.jpg (pre FM Exhaust) Packet Loss fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Feb 22, 2011 |
# ? Feb 22, 2011 08:26 |
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Wouldn't the turbo only kicking in at higher RPM be better for gas mileage or is that largely irrelevant because it gets good gas mileage anyway
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# ? Feb 22, 2011 21:40 |
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Nodoze posted:Wouldn't the turbo only kicking in at higher RPM be better for gas mileage or is that largely irrelevant because it gets good gas mileage anyway Miata getting good gas mileage
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# ? Feb 22, 2011 22:08 |
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Nodoze posted:Wouldn't the turbo only kicking in at higher RPM be better for gas mileage or is that largely irrelevant because it gets good gas mileage anyway I don't get that great of gas mileage on the Mazdaspeed. If I'm on the highway, it's about on par with every other Miata I own, but in town, it sucks pretty bad, but that's also because I like the boost.
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# ? Feb 22, 2011 22:32 |
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Nodoze posted:or is that largely irrelevant because it gets good gas mileage anyway I get such bad gas mileage in my NA. Not SUV bad, but not nearly as good as you would think such a small car should get. Usually low-mid 20s in mixed driving. Can sometimes get high 20s on long interstate trips doing 75-80 with the top up. I might drive a bit more aggressively than average, but the car is geared to feel best when cruising around 3k RPMs give or take, accelerating practically demands wringing it out to past 5k RPMs to get the best shift points within the measly power band, and the car has the aerodynamics of a brick, especially with the top down. It's not as high-strung as something like an S2000, but it definitely requires some deliberate use of the gas pedal if you don't want to be lugging and chugging around town and getting passed by minivans all the time. And that's what makes it so goddamn fun. Guinness fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Feb 22, 2011 |
# ? Feb 22, 2011 22:59 |
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Mark Larson posted:Miata getting good gas mileage My mother in law is driving my NB until I get time to do the master cylinder on her '98 V6 Camry. She's madly in love with it now because it gets so much better mileage. I think the Camry has the original spark plugs still.
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# ? Feb 22, 2011 23:50 |
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Nodoze posted:Generally speaking, how much is it worth ?
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 02:27 |
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beatdown posted:Without any issues, in the midwest where I'm at, probably 3-3.5k tops for a 90. You have to look, but you'll find a better deal than that. I'm also about to pay $3700 for a 2002 with 47k miles, so figure that
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 03:59 |
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Isn't 140,000 kind of high though? I can deal with the o2 sensor but with my lovely job I can't really afford for the car to start loving up on me. what kinds of things are scheduled to break on a 140,000 mile '01 Miata? let's pretend the previous owner only ever changed the oil. PS I am not great with cars. runaway dog fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Feb 23, 2011 |
# ? Feb 23, 2011 07:54 |
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Don't trade cars. I don't loving get this bullshit about "trading cars", it screams scaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam from the rooftops. The personal best I've gotten out of the Miata was 34mpg going 80mph on the freeway. The stipulation was that I had found a gas station that sells 100% gasoline (no ethanol).
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 13:35 |
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Phone posted:The personal best I've gotten out of the Miata was 34mpg going 80mph on the freeway. The stipulation was that I had found a gas station that sells 100% gasoline (no ethanol). Sounds believable. I haven't figured it out, but it seems my Miata is affected more by ethanol blends than any other car I've owned.
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 14:47 |
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code:
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 18:33 |
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Soft top care tips for the winter? I don't have a garage, and while I'll probably get a hardtop is it possible to run the soft top in winter? I'm in Virginia so its cold as poo poo in the winter and hot as gently caress in the summer. I'm guessing I'd need to cover the car every night to keep ice from breaking the cloth.
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 18:56 |
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Phone posted:Don't trade cars. I don't loving get this bullshit about "trading cars", it screams scaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam from the rooftops. I haven't found gas without ethanol in years around here. Everything about it is so stupid.
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 18:57 |
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I typically get between 30-32 MPG in my NA of mostly country/town driving, though that's all warm weather driving. WHERE ARE YOU WARM WEATHER, YOU WHORE?
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 19:14 |
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First Time Caller posted:Soft top care tips for the winter? I don't have a garage, and while I'll probably get a hardtop is it possible to run the soft top in winter? If you have the original vinyl top, it'll do fine. I've let mine sit under snow that melted and refroze into ice, and the vinyl is watertight enough that nothing seeps into it. Once it's ice, you can put your hand under the top and tent the ice up and then push it all off in one go. Just don't put it down and risk cracking it, of course.
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 19:28 |
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kimbo305 posted:Just don't put it down and risk cracking it, of course. Yeah, the vinyl itself on any of the OEM or high quality aftermarket tops (e.g., Robbins) will survive the cold, snow, and ice just fine as long as you don't attempt to flex it to any significant degree. If your top has a plastic window, be EXCEPTIONALLY careful when it is cold out. If you whack it hard enough, it will crack very easily. A glass-windowed top, on the other hand, will be pretty much worry-free. And somewhat relatedly, speaking of tops, for any of you NA/NB guys that haven't upgraded to a glass-windowed top, it's the best decision I ever made for my NA, especially since I don't have a hardtop.
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 19:39 |
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First Time Caller posted:Soft top care tips for the winter? I don't have a garage, and while I'll probably get a hardtop is it possible to run the soft top in winter? In in NoVA and use this to cover my NC pretty much every day. I've had it a bit over a year, and it's starting to rip and will need replacing soon, but at $40 I can't really complain. The fit is a little tight, but it stows nicely in the truck. Or, a similar product for other generations.
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 20:02 |
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First Time Caller posted:Soft top care tips for the winter? I don't have a garage, and while I'll probably get a hardtop is it possible to run the soft top in winter? This is what I did - covered the car every night. It's a pain, but better than ruining the top.
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# ? Feb 23, 2011 20:03 |
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Guinness posted:And somewhat relatedly, speaking of tops, for any of you NA/NB guys that haven't upgraded to a glass-windowed top, it's the best decision I ever made for my NA, especially since I don't have a hardtop. NBs come with glass The manual says, if I remember correctly, not to raise or lower the top in temperatures under either 45 degrees or 50 degrees.
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# ? Feb 24, 2011 01:10 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:NBs come with glass Shows what I know about NBs. I thought the 99/00 NBs still had plastic. God I hate plastic windows so much.
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# ? Feb 24, 2011 01:21 |
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Guinness posted:God I hate plastic windows so much. While I hate that mine is cracked and discolored, I love the fact that I can unzip the plastic window and have awesome airflow without going completely topless.
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# ? Feb 24, 2011 01:28 |
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# ? May 24, 2024 17:35 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:NBs come with glass I put mine down basically any day it's not raining/snowing, I'll report on when it fails.
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# ? Feb 24, 2011 01:31 |