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Probably a bit of a stretch to call it a project, it took about half an hour to sort out. But, in the bedroom, I have set up 3 lamps with increasing wattage bulbs and on staggered timers. I've woken up of a morning felling much less grumpy, especially as it cost a fraction of the $100 for a proper sunrise alarm clock. Success. Edit: What a rubbish new page 
MeKeV fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 15:33
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MeKeV posted:Probably a bit of a stretch to call it a project, it took about half an hour to sort out. Haha, this is a loving great idea!
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Feb 8, 2011 16:31
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Panzerschwein posted:It's a T-shirt design from shirt.woot.com. You could buy the actual shirt, cut it out, and put it over the dream catcher. (If the shirt design is not too big.) I actually have this shirt and it turned out to be too small, so I would totally sell it at cost for a cool project (I bought it on the day at $10, it'd be $15 to buy one now)
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Feb 8, 2011 16:34
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MeKeV posted:Probably a bit of a stretch to call it a project, it took about half an hour to sort out. That's really, REALLY clever. 
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Feb 8, 2011 17:05
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The robots are built, tested and ready for combat. Weight is 29.675lbs, armor's still due for a quick coat of paint, but it's otherwise 100% ready. The weapon bar weighs 9.75lbs and spins up to somewhere near 2000rpm.  Weight is 11.89lbs, and it's fully ready.  Weight is 0.89lbs, and outside of some possible minor cosmetic stuff, it's ready. All three are competing at the NERC event next weekend during Motorama.
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Feb 12, 2011 03:30
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woops, never mind, moved to woodworking thread
Blake- fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Feb 14, 2011 |
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Feb 14, 2011 07:07
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Making a MAME console. We have a table sitting below a wall mounted TV, so we just needed a lectern sort of thing to house the controls and PC... Pine framework with 18mm marine ply for the base and 6mm hardwood ply for the top panel, and excessive use of my mates Festool domino joiner, those things are awesome.  We stayed fairly close to the initial plan:  Still to come are slots in the base panel, because the table is too close to the TV, the whole thing slides out to overhang the table edge, and is bolted in place with a couple of wingnuts, so its easy to slide back when not in use. I figured we can't make it too robust or too heavy, the thing already weighs 20kg without any parts inside.
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Feb 14, 2011 08:05
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monkey posted:We stayed fairly close to the initial plan: I know jack about design software. I only know CAD by name. What program did you use to do this? Is there a newbie-friendly software that people can design rooms or do sketches in?
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Feb 14, 2011 09:20
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Yeah, it's called sketchup and the free version does everything you need. Google owns it now. http://sketchup.google.com/
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Feb 14, 2011 09:31
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That is looking beautiful. Are you going to put a printed cover on it like an arcade cabinet or have the finished wood showing?
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Feb 15, 2011 03:08
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monkey posted:Yeah, it's called sketchup and the free version does everything you need. This is exactly what I need, thank you.
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Feb 15, 2011 04:51
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ludnix posted:That is looking beautiful. Are you going to put a printed cover on it like an arcade cabinet or have the finished wood showing? Thanks. The finish has been the subject of quite a lot of discussion here, we were going to stain it at one point, because the wood looked better than we anticipated, but there are a few puttied up gaps, so in the end we're just going to spraypaint it with 1 part epoxy, and maybe handpaint some trim around the edges.
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Feb 15, 2011 16:31
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I cut out the skate board I was working on.   Next step is to glue the couple spots the are void with epoxy and then coat the bottom in resin for strength.
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Feb 19, 2011 03:15
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the Mods, they knew!
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Currently started making an extension for my desk, it should just about double the total amount of space I have, which will be nice. I drew it all out but then I heard about Google SketchUp from this thread and decided to try and make it in there, 2 and a half hours later and I have a final project whose drawings look all fancy.
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Feb 24, 2011 06:59
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Are those all 4"X4"s ? Good god
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Feb 24, 2011 08:04
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Haha when in doubt build it stout. They're 2x4s drilled together because I dont have a saw and Lowe's wouldn't cut 4x4s. I just really did not like the way 2x4s would have gone together, and in all honesty the few bucks I would have saved by using just 2x4s isn't really a big deal because I want it, along with my current desk, to last a long rear end time. Plus I really loving hate putting together the furniture you can buy at Target and places like that.
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Feb 24, 2011 09:05
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SpecialK2 posted:Haha when in doubt build it stout. They're 2x4s drilled together because I dont have a saw and Lowe's wouldn't cut 4x4s. I just really did not like the way 2x4s would have gone together, and in all honesty the few bucks I would have saved by using just 2x4s isn't really a big deal because I want it, along with my current desk, to last a long rear end time. Plus I really loving hate putting together the furniture you can buy at Target and places like that. You're going to want some sort of horizontal support or plywood in there somewhere, maybe halfway down the 4x4's. If you are just screwing through the table top into the end of the 4x4's you will get some wobble in the table. Also it is going to be heavy as all hell. Have you tried sketching it up with 2x4's and horizontal supports/plywood? It won't look as 'leggy' as you think once you put the horizontals in. And if you are worried about things lasting a long time, when it comes to a desk for a computer, a desk built out of 2x4's or 4x4's is going to last the same amount of time, all it's doing is holding up a monitor and a few peripherals. I built my computer desk out of 1/2" Birch Plywood and it's lasted 4 years and is sitting in storage waiting for more space to open up. Just my two cents. MarshallX fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Feb 24, 2011 |
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Feb 24, 2011 15:22
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You seriously will not need 4x4s. A 2x4 will be more than strong enough. 4x4s will look pretty ugly too. Actually, the plywood itself will be more than strong enough. Just build it right and it'll hold plenty.
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Feb 24, 2011 15:40
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To be honest, I don't think anything made out of the bulk lumber like 2"x4"s or 4"x4" is gonna be aesthetically pleasing... I hope I'm not destroying your dream right now man.
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Feb 24, 2011 16:53
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I'm not sure where the guy building a tiny "house" ended up but can I remind him of poo poo like this http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10708496 and perhaps this, depending on where you live http://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/queensland/cyclone-yasi-snapshot-20110203-1afbq.html sure your house may be cheap and dodge a few taxes/building codes, but aren't some of them there for a reason? I'm not against crazy save some money building, if you can circumvent bullshit taxes go for it, but if what you build may compromise safety, think about what it may mean is all I say
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Feb 24, 2011 17:49
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:You seriously will not need 4x4s. A 2x4 will be more than strong enough. 4x4s will look pretty ugly too. Maybe it's a platform for loving on. In which case, I say make it as strong as he wants. No harm in overkill.
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Feb 24, 2011 18:19
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MikeNCR posted:The robots are built, tested and ready for combat. These are loving sweet! Can you do a write up about them in the Robot Thread?
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Feb 24, 2011 20:56
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Slung Blade posted:Maybe it's a platform for loving on. In which case, I say make it as strong as he wants. I bet I could make a fine fuckin' platform out of plywood that could take any abuse thrown at it, and it would be built with nothing more than a skill saw and drill. 
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Feb 24, 2011 22:48
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standardtoaster posted:These are loving sweet! Can you do a write up about them in the Robot Thread? They're not really robots, and I'd rather avoid getting into an argument about it. Here's some video from the last event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoHERDQgZwo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpUIkBLSxhM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxjT9C_j0ZQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgXxwK_I3Zs
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Feb 25, 2011 01:23
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There will be plywood all around it, I had it way overbuilt before, like even more than now, but decided I didn't really need it if I was going to put plywood on all the sides. I really am not worried about aesthetically pleasing, and weight is not an issue. I live in a college house with five other dudes, nothing is aesthetically pleasing, except our beer pong table. I can only hope I end up loving on this desk.
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Feb 25, 2011 09:14
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Is it going to be ritually burned once you graduate?
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Feb 25, 2011 19:12
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It might do a lot to make it looks less like a piece of garage workshop furniture if you use veneer plywood though. Note I'm not trying to be a super pessimistic critic, making GBS threads all over your plan. Just trying to help. 
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Feb 25, 2011 23:28
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I think it will look bad rear end.
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Feb 26, 2011 07:20
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So I got a house and the previous tenants had not updated the house since the 70's they have hardwood floors throughout the entire top floor of this house, the bedrooms are exposed except for the living room which has this horrible yellow shag over top the hardwood. I am exposing all of it today and its incredible how good of shape its in. Any encouragement or tips would be helpful as I am not very handy, but since its mostly just ripping and pulling nails. The finishing is gonna be the tough part. Ok so I had pics but they weren't resizing, I am working on it. http://imgur.com/2PSk2 Flaggy fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Feb 26, 2011 |
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Feb 26, 2011 19:39
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That looks to be in remarkably good shape. The only advice I can give is to cover EVERYTHING while sanding if you're refinishing it. The dust gets everywhere. I only remember this because my Sega Genesis at the time was left uncovered in a completely different room and the dust killed it.
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Feb 26, 2011 20:27
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I honestly don't think I have to refinish the living room, its in great shape and looks amazing, I am going to be doing the two upstairs bedrooms though and will definitely cover everything. Here is a pic of the finished product if any one cares, it only took about four hours for tearing out the carpet, pulling the nails and staples and cleanup. Not too shabby. http://imgur.com/TXR9v
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Feb 27, 2011 00:02
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Why anyone would cover such nice floorboards is beyond me. Then again I'm not a fan of carpet. I would say it may be tough to match finishes between the different rooms if they flow into each other. You may want to sand and finish every room and the hall because of this anyway to make sure it everything flows together nicely. Maybe test a little area of one of the bedrooms you're refinishing near the doorway to see how good a match you can get before committing to the whole room.
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Feb 27, 2011 00:42
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I have no idea either why someone would cover up this beautiful floor. I think the plan is to go darker though on the stain so I might end up doing all of it at once in a mad strip, sand, varnish weekend. Sleep in the kitchen or something.
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Feb 27, 2011 00:52
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Flaggy posted:I have no idea either why someone would cover up this beautiful floor. I think the plan is to go darker though on the stain so I might end up doing all of it at once in a mad strip, sand, varnish weekend. Sleep in the kitchen or something. You might want to consider a hotel. I lived in a basement apartment and my landlady did the strip/sand/stain on the apartment upstairs all in one weekend, and the fumes from whatever the hell she used made everyone in my apartment nauseated and headachey. Though I think she left the windows shut. 
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Feb 27, 2011 16:58
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On a house that old you generally have to add a 'strip' process to the refinishing because those hardwood floors used to be maintained via a wax and oil varnish which has now turned into a gum deep in the grain. You DO need to do this with windows open or you are going to get out of your mind/possible do damage to yourself from your fumes. You can purchase floor stripper cheaply enough, you spread it on with a paint brush or paint roller, wait ten minutes and then get to scraping it off with plastic scrapers. The stripper is so strong it will DISSOLVE the plastic scraper, but if you use metal it may marr the floor. After it has been stripped, wait 20 minutes, then using rollers apply a single layer of polyurethane, after that has dried (basically one full day), apply one more layer of polyurethane to get that 'mirror shine' finish. If you want to do it in one application AND have an even more durable top coat you can use marine epoxy, but it is VERY important to have how you are going to apply it thought out before you begin because the epoxy is two part and starts curing the instant the two parts are mixed (Rather then polyurethane which is air dry, and dries in relation to exposed surface area- so will not harden in the can). As for why these floors were pulled out- it was considered lower maintenance to simply vacuum carpet then it was to strip wax once a year with bleach, and apply wax weekly with a mop. Without doing those steps the floor tended to look kind of blackish, and was vulnerable to water damage.
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Feb 27, 2011 17:35
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I did some floor work and everything I read said to use a natural bristle brush and go only one direction. This worked out great for me, but I've honestly never tried a roller.
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Feb 28, 2011 02:12
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I've always used a lambswool applicator to apply urethane to floors. I would think a roller would leave bubbles.
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Mar 2, 2011 13:33
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Richard Noggin posted:I've always used a lambswool applicator to apply urethane to floors. I would think a roller would leave bubbles. Humm, it has been more then 5 years since I did it, and I forgot to open the windows before I started- so I may have warped memory of the incident...I am pretty sure I used SOMETHING on the end of a broom-pole to apply it, but perhaps it was a more purpose-built applicator rather then a standard paint roller. I also remember putting it on VERY thick, probably more then 1mm of actual material laid down, making sure the floor was actually level was actually a consideration. Edit: I keep my house at ~15C during the winter, which is when I did it. I had the vent plugged up in that room; so temperatures could have been below 10C; I may have used a roller but the set time was so long, so much material applied, and my floor so level anyway that it self-levelled to a nice finish Linux Assassin fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 2, 2011 |
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Mar 2, 2011 22:06
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Got a shipment of parts in yesterday, so here's the final breadboard prototype of my ammunition counter. Click for massive More boring details: The top breadboard is mostly the same. I added a bunch of pull-up and pull-down resistors after temporarily forgetting that you need them. The two CD4511BE BCD to 7 segment decoders were glitching out because they are only good down to 3 volts (which is where the battery pack starts at) so they were replaced with updated CD74HC4511E versions. On the lower breadboard the decrement button has been replaced with a Hall Effect sensor. The reset and load buttons are the same, and then we have a M74HC4078B1R 8-input NOR / OR gate which is used to stop the count when it reaches zero. In theory a small neodymium magnet (like the one attached to that screwdriver) would be attached to some reciprocating part of the firearm (bolt / slide) and the Hall sensor would sense it moving back and forth and decrement the counter. I did some rough testing with the magnet-screwdriver and I'm very pleased with the result; waving it around in front of the sensor results in the counter decrementing smoothly and stopping at zero without any issues. Next up: Now I just have to mount this whole mess onto a piece of perfboard and it will be ready to test on an airsoft pistol. I would also like to read through all the datasheets and find the slowest component in order to calculate how fast this thing can count. DethMarine21 fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Mar 12, 2011 |
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Mar 12, 2011 01:39
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Big fun for me and the kids this weekend! We decided that we need a catapult so I cut the wood the kids glued and screwed the wood together then I wound the rope. The thing got a lot of oomph.
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Mar 12, 2011 06:51
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