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Endless Mike posted:My VFR has a fuel gauge which fluctuates by about a quarter of a tank which is not terribly useful. The Hornet features a pannier type tank, which means the gauge shows reserve when you start it on the sidestand, and shows you something like the true level after 2-3 minutes of riding. I just know my realistic range before refuelling is something like 130/135 miles on the trip.
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Mar 1, 2011 10:33
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| # ? May 16, 2024 04:52 |
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I finally got into the carbs on my bike! I tore them down, soaked them and rebuilt them without any major headaches or injuries. It's been at least 2 years since they had been cleaned (not by me), so I figured it was about time. The bike (74 Cb 550) was running rich (lots of carbon in the exhaust/on the plugs and poo poo gas mileage) and the carbs needed to be synched. I'll probably just make my own manometer rather than buy some fancy one, and any tips or suggestions on that front would be sweet. My main question is about the air/fuel mixture screws. The manual only says "1 +/-1/8" which i'm assuming means 1 and 1 1/8th turn? Is this from all the way in? Also they were not nearly as scary to work on as i thought, even though these were pretty clean and corrosion free to begin with, which was lovely.
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Mar 3, 2011 00:50
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You are correct, that's from all the way in, but DO NOT bottom them hard. Just turn them in until they bottom and stop, you do not want to deform the tip of the screw.
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Mar 3, 2011 01:59
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Still can't get the drat clutch in the YS/YZ125 to work right. It either won't disengage or won't grab depending on how it is adjusted. I am using the stock/OEM cable, perch and lever for a 96 yz125 engine. When we first tore into the clutch there was a wave spring in there. The rebuild kit didn't have one so we didn't put it in. I'm beginning to think the wave spring is the key to this thing working correctly. I can't see how adding the wave spring would fix it but at this point I'm willing to give it a try. Also no diagram shows the wave spring in the clutch pack. So dumb question...are wave springs directional? Also any other things that I might have missed putting this thing back together 15-20 times? NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Mar 3, 2011 |
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Mar 3, 2011 17:19
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Last night I laid my bike down during a slow corner in my apartment complex. Besides my incredibly bruised ego, my bike seems fine cosmetically. I haven't been able to get her to turn over yet, probably due to the engine being flooded from gas coming out of the top vent when she was on her side. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should do to make sure everything is fine and okay?
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Mar 3, 2011 18:07
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NitroSpazzz posted:Still can't get the drat clutch in the YS/YZ125 to work right. It either won't disengage or won't grab depending on how it is adjusted. I am using the stock/OEM cable, perch and lever for a 96 yz125 engine. Did you adjust the pushrod ? If you changed the friction disks you should adjust it or you'll either have a clutch that doesn't disengage completely or a clutch that won't fully engage.
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Mar 3, 2011 18:33
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It shouldn't take that long for a bike to recover from being flooded. After my drops, my bikes can usually start again in about 5 minutes. It helps to crank with the throttle wide open to help clear out the fuel. For extreme cases you may have to remove the spark plugs, dry them out, and crank while they're out to force gas out from the cylinders.
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Mar 3, 2011 18:34
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Primo Itch posted:Did you adjust the pushrod ? If you changed the friction disks you should adjust it or you'll either have a clutch that doesn't disengage completely or a clutch that won't fully engage. We didn't touch the push rod so that could be it but I'm not sure how I would adjust it. Sounds like the right symptoms though, would be great if that was it. Schematic - I'm guessing your talking about part #11 http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1996-yamaha-yz125h1/o/m8828#sch130730
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Mar 3, 2011 18:53
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Yes, that's what i'm talking about. The pushrod works like this : When you pull the clutch lever it presses the pushrod, which moves the pressure plate and allow the discs to spin. If your pushrod is pushed in too much the pressure plate won't have enough room to put full pressure on the friction plates and the clutch will spin. On the other hand, if the pushrod is out too much when you push the clutch it will take some lever movement just to get to the pushrod, so you won't be able to move the pushrod completely and the clutch will not disengage properly. I have a 2004 manual here, and according to bikebanditz the pushrod setup seens to be the same, so shoot me an email at hernando dot rosa dot poa at gmail and i'll send it to you. edit : It's a 2004 manual, but it all look quite close, so I believe it would at least be able to give you a better explanation about how the pushrod works than my crappy english can. Primo Itch fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Mar 3, 2011 |
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Mar 3, 2011 19:09
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NitroSpazzz posted:Still can't get the drat clutch in the YS/YZ125 to work right. It either won't disengage or won't grab depending on how it is adjusted. I am using the stock/OEM cable, perch and lever for a 96 yz125 engine.
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Mar 3, 2011 19:30
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So I kind of want a gopro so I can be like everyone else and upload lovely videos to youtube. They're pretty expensive, though. How often do you guys use it for other stuff aside from helmet cam? I see it's waterproof so using it at the beach would be cool. I really want to use it on my motorcycle road trip and have it set to do intervals. Would be awesome. Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Mar 3, 2011 |
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Mar 3, 2011 19:44
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Z3n posted:When you say wave spring do you mean what looks looks Iike a skinny, warped washer? If so, yes, you need that, and yes, it's directional. The manual will specify direction. Christoff posted:They're pretty expensive, though. How often do you guys use it for other stuff aside from helmet cam? I see it's waterproof so using it at the beach would be cool. I really want to use it on my motorcycle road trip and have it set to do intervals. Would be awesome. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Mar 3, 2011 |
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Mar 3, 2011 20:08
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Vilkata posted:Last night I laid my bike down during a slow corner in my apartment complex. Besides my incredibly bruised ego, my bike seems fine cosmetically. I haven't been able to get her to turn over yet, probably due to the engine being flooded from gas coming out of the top vent when she was on her side. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should do to make sure everything is fine and okay? Nothing really. Just start it up again and ride it.
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Mar 3, 2011 21:01
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Christoff posted:So I kind of want a gopro so I can be like everyone else and upload lovely videos to youtube. Cheaper options, according to my French moto mag, include a Bullet HD720P (clues in the name?) and Drift innovation X170...
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Mar 3, 2011 21:07
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Christoff posted:So I kind of want a gopro so I can be like everyone else and upload lovely videos to youtube. I've used a fair number of the other ones. Splash out for the GoPro, it's the best. Rider's discount on the wera forums can hook you up with one for about 30% off retail.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:05
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Yeah I see they just came out with an LCD screen. Which I assumed it already had one. How many models are there, etc? I want a waterproof one so I can take it to the beach, bro.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:07
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I wanted some type of small camera as well, and decided to really slum it and went with this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-DV-DVR-Sports-Video-Camera-Camcorder-MD80-720x480-/270708590909?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f077d493d Lets not make any mistake, this is by no means a high quality camera of any kind. But for $12 bucks it looks decent enough, particularly since I am still building up my skills and don't plan on taking any long trips for a while, it doesn't make sense to drop the scratch for a good camera.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:10
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Haha $12? Really? I want to see the video quality.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:11
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Christoff posted:Haha $12? Really? I want to see the video quality. It's pretty well known that cheapy little cameras like that can get decent enough quality. It's not like 1080p but it's not 1993 RCA camcorder quality either. EDIT - I should've mentioned I'm interested in footage too, convince me to spend money!
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Mar 3, 2011 22:13
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JP Money posted:It's pretty well known that cheapy little cameras like that can get decent enough quality. It's not like 1080p but it's not 1993 RCA camcorder quality either. The problem with small cameras is that they get massive amounts of shutter wobble. They're ok for surveillance and stuff, but when you're trying to record stuff moving at speed you kinda get screwed.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:14
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http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/sportbike-videos-reviews/436954-10-keychain-camera-gopro-move-aside.html They all do ok. That's what convinced me really.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:16
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Not bad for $12 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vpuyVwDrSA&feature=player_embedded
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Mar 3, 2011 22:26
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Sweet, I was in the market for a new helmet camera, but didn't want to spend freakin' $200+. Ordered a $15 MD-80 on eBay (shipping included) and a generic wide-angle lens designed for cell phones.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:47
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Sorry I would have posted an accompanying video, but I am at work and can't get on to Youtube at all. From the videos I had seen on Youtube I was sold, I mean for $12 how can you REALLY go wrong? I haven't got to mess with mine yet, but I will try and set it up this weekend and ride around for a few minutes, and post the results.
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Mar 3, 2011 23:08
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Sweet, I was in the market for a new helmet camera, but didn't want to spend freakin' $200+. Ordered a $15 MD-80 on eBay (shipping included) and a generic wide-angle lens designed for cell phones. Just bought one as well. 12.99 shipped 
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Mar 3, 2011 23:49
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YSR125 runs and the clutch works now. Neighbors aren't happy but holy poo poo that thing pulls. Need to look at re-gearing though.
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Mar 4, 2011 01:13
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Can we just make a gopro or helmet cam thread? With all the different ones you can get? And also people can post their pics/videos there.
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Mar 4, 2011 01:15
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Christoff posted:Can we just make a gopro or helmet cam thread? With all the different ones you can get? And also people can post their pics/videos there. I dunno if you're being sarcastic or not but we do have such a thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3223561
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Mar 4, 2011 01:31
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That's what I get for never leaving my bookmarked threads
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Mar 4, 2011 01:35
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How much stock should I put into SHARP testing of helmets? Looks from the website like the testing is pretty darn thorough.
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Mar 4, 2011 03:41
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I may be buying a Honda CB250 in a town about 3 hours from home. I've owned this model before (which is why I'm buying it again), and from the description/pics its claimed to be in good shape and regularly maintained. If I stick to the quieter rural highways between Hershey PA and Washington DC, is there any reason it would be a terrible idea to ride this bike 150mi at a stretch? I wasn't looking to keep it at 70mph (I think 78mph is the fastest I ever got on one) at a stretch, but is there any concern holding it at 55mph or so for that far?
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Mar 4, 2011 08:25
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Russian Bear posted:How much stock should I put into SHARP testing of helmets? Looks from the website like the testing is pretty darn thorough. It's a perfectly legitimate testing regime. Certain helmet companies and (their?) experts disagree with the testing methodologies used, but as long as you aren't relying solely on one standard or the other, I don't see how you can go far wrong. One of the reasons (aside from the amazing finish, high quality peripherals and low price) that I've stuck with the Shark RSX (after smacking up my first one) is the five-star SHARP rating. The RSX was more highly rated than similarly positioned Sharks, Shark's top-end stuff and the Shoei/Arai competition. TTFA - no reason not to at all, if it's been properly maintained. It was designed for it back when that was a much more common capacity choice.
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Mar 4, 2011 11:15
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I may be buying a Honda CB250 in a town about 3 hours from home. I've owned this model before (which is why I'm buying it again), and from the description/pics its claimed to be in good shape and regularly maintained.
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Mar 4, 2011 15:10
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Is it standard operating procedure for an insurance company to not include motorcycles when applying a multivehicle discount? Is there an insurance company anyone uses in Massachusetts that understands that some people use a motorcycle as a primary vehicle, not a toy?
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Mar 4, 2011 16:46
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bladesamurai posted:Is it standard operating procedure for an insurance company to not include motorcycles when applying a multivehicle discount? Is there an insurance company anyone uses in Massachusetts that understands that some people use a motorcycle as a primary vehicle, not a toy? Most insurance companies actually have an entirely separate division that handles motorcycles, so it's not considered the same policy. Some of them do give you a discount if you already have you car insurance with them though.
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Mar 4, 2011 16:54
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bladesamurai posted:Is it standard operating procedure for an insurance company to not include motorcycles when applying a multivehicle discount? Is there an insurance company anyone uses in Massachusetts that understands that some people use a motorcycle as a primary vehicle, not a toy? I think it's pretty much universal that cars and bikes are kept separate. When I had two bikes insured through Progressive and then went to add a car, not only was I told it was a separate policy but my rate was sky high because I "had a gap in my auto insurance" despite having bike insurance with them for years. It's the same with banks...you'll never get as good a loan on a bike as you will car because it's not considered transportation. The upside though is insurance is cheap.
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Mar 4, 2011 16:57
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Yeah, it bugs me too how they always advertise them lumped in with RVs and boats and such. Statistically speaking though, most people use them as more of a toy than a mode of transport, and if there's one thing an insurance company has to pay attention to, it's statistics.
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Mar 4, 2011 17:21
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Ok, thanks for the quick responses. I guess the best I can hope for is a company that gives a discount for multiple bikes on a single policy, with the car policy separate.
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Mar 4, 2011 17:23
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I think Geico offered me a discount for also having my car insurance through them, but their rates completely sucked so I went with Progressive instead.
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Mar 4, 2011 17:27
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| # ? May 16, 2024 04:52 |
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If you have good health insurance you could get the minimum vehicle insurance on the bikes. Mine is $250 a year for two of the most insane "toys" I've ever owned.
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Mar 4, 2011 17:29
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