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Ola posted:I'm pretty sure the V is the speed rating. You and I are in the same boat when it comes to tire choices, we need to get cross ply and they only come in one speed rating which is "good enough". I think I would've chosen the Sport Demon altough I haven't tried them. They're well regarded by the internet hive mind, but the BT45 is a bit more varied. I've stuck to Avon Roadriders so far, they're excellent. Yeah quite odd because the Clymer lists the tire as 54(I think, may be wrong number)H rated. And the rear isn't listed as a V, just as 110-90 18, H rated. FWIW, Wikipedia mentions nothing about the V in the tire specs. Dunno. I will check the price on the Avons. I just noticed that the BTs and Pirellis were pretty cheap.
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Mar 7, 2011 22:11
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It's mentioned here. http://www.dunntire.com/Learning_Center/Tire_Speed_Ratings It could also be that the V is shorthand for " Speed rating? v  v "
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Mar 7, 2011 22:50
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KozmoNaut posted:Haha "enriched", that's some marketing bullshit right there. Avoid if at all possible. You are half right here. At least when it comes to shell they claim their fuel is "enriched with nitrogen", which I have no idea what effect it has on an engine, be it positive or negative. However you are likely to find fuel that does have a certain percentage of ethanol in it, I think the approved percentage for all vehicles is 10%, and 15% for newer model vehicles.
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Mar 8, 2011 00:06
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Ola posted:It's mentioned here. http://www.dunntire.com/Learning_Center/Tire_Speed_Ratings I like your explanation the best.
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Mar 8, 2011 00:26
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Porkchop Express posted:However you are likely to find fuel that does have a certain percentage of ethanol in it, I think the approved percentage for all vehicles is 10%, and 15% for newer model vehicles. I know. Against all common sense, some countries mandate a set amount of ethanol in all gas, to the detriment of a lot of engines that were never designed for it.
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Mar 8, 2011 00:28
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Pvt. Public posted:I've got to get new tires for my 86 Interceptor 500, but the Clymer says it uses a 100-90V 16 front and I don't see any tires on Bike Bandit with a V in that size. I know it isn't a speed rating because these are H rated tires. What does that V signify?
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Mar 8, 2011 01:26
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-Inu- posted:Sport Demons. I hated the 45's when I had my 250. I wasn't a big fan of the Sport Demons. They take a while to heat up and were pretty average when I had them on my CBR250. I found the BT45s to be stickier than the Sport Demons (they're dual compound as well, which is nice). I tracked twice on them and they never skipped a beat.
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Mar 8, 2011 01:46
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-Inu- posted:Sport Demons. I hated the 45's when I had my 250. Can't say I've had any issues with 45s on my VTR. 15000+km, two rears and one front.
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Mar 8, 2011 04:47
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And there we go, mixed experiences. I only have the choice (last time I checked) between Roadriders and 45s. On my next change I'm doing both ends and will go with 45s simply for curiosity. Unless Sport Demons are available here. When choosing cross-ply rubber I think it's hard to go very wrong. They last 6-10K miles and you rarely demand performance from them that won't upset the chassis first. It's a bigger deal when you have a heavy, torquey sports tourer - poor wear characteristics will easily double your tire budget. And a bigger deal yet when racing of course, where it's a weekend consumable.
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Mar 8, 2011 12:59
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My ST1100 has kind of bastard size rubber (110/80V18 and 160/70V17). I was looking for pilot road 2s as recommended here, but they don't make them in the rear size from what I can see. I'm not against tweeking the size a bit, HOWEVER, the new Battle-ax BT-023 Sport Touring is made in my size exactly (and Z rated) and the reviews I've read seem pretty positive... even though the older battleax versions have reviews all over the map. Anyone here have experience with them yet?
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Mar 8, 2011 17:51
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slidebite posted:My ST1100 has kind of bastard size rubber (110/80V18 and 160/70V17). I was looking for pilot road 2s as recommended here, but they don't make them in the rear size from what I can see. I'm not against tweeking the size a bit, HOWEVER, the new Battle-ax BT-023 Sport Touring is made in my size exactly (and Z rated) and the reviews I've read seem pretty positive... even though the older battleax versions have reviews all over the map. I have BT-023s on my ST1300 (120/70R18; 170/60R17), and have been very happy with them. I've had them on for about 4500 miles now. Good wet weather traction, very low noise, and they have been wearing very well.
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Mar 8, 2011 18:47
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KozmoNaut posted:I know. Against all common sense, some countries mandate a set amount of ethanol in all gas, to the detriment of a lot of engines that were never designed for it. Yep, I live in Arlington, VA, and there is a 10% ethanol mandate. Impossible to find gas without it.
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Mar 8, 2011 19:00
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slidebite posted:My ST1100 has kind of bastard size rubber (110/80V18 and 160/70V17). I was looking for pilot road 2s as recommended here, but they don't make them in the rear size from what I can see. I'm not against tweeking the size a bit, HOWEVER, the new Battle-ax BT-023 Sport Touring is made in my size exactly (and Z rated) and the reviews I've read seem pretty positive... even though the older battleax versions have reviews all over the map. Just finished a set of BT-023's on my SV (120/60|160/60), I went 9500 miles before hitting the wear bars on them. Did mountain runs, highway miles, long distance trips, everythhing you can think of, tires were absolutely great and I'd definitely recommend them.
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Mar 8, 2011 19:50
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Raven457 posted:I have BT-023s on my ST1300 (120/70R18; 170/60R17), and have been very happy with them. I've had them on for about 4500 miles now. Good wet weather traction, very low noise, and they have been wearing very well. NipplesTheCat posted:Just finished a set of BT-023's on my SV (120/60|160/60), I went 9500 miles before hitting the wear bars on them. Did mountain runs, highway miles, long distance trips, everythhing you can think of, tires were absolutely great and I'd definitely recommend them. Sold. Ordered the set up. Thanks for the info guys.
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Mar 8, 2011 21:48
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I am about to start working on getting the carbs on my terrible 82 GS450 running, and since the previous owner was using these: And since he seems to have hosed up a couple of the original airbox mounts, I was wondering what my best options were. I assume to get the carbs running without rejetting and extensive tuning, I just need the stock air system. But, before I go and get a used airbox, and struggle to get it mounted, I was wondering if there are any options for air intake systems that might be relatively easy work-arounds. I had a set of K&N pods given to me as a gift, but my understanding is that those are going to require incredible amounts of effort(read: punching things in anger) without much hope of success or gain, so I figure they're off the table. I can have some simple stuff fabricated through handy work and a CNC machine, but I can't re-weld mounts or do any serious metal work myself. I considered fabricating an airbox or filter housing of some sort attached to velocity stacks or tubing, but I'm assuming that would give me all the same problems with air pressure at the carb throat as pods, just less turbulence. Is getting the pressure at the carb throat right more a function of proper volume, shape, or intake resistance? Or is it all three and thats why you just run the damned airbox the well paid engineers built?
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Mar 8, 2011 22:51
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Have a really stupid, quick, slapping myself in head question: I deep discharged a brand-new battery HARD. Is it dead? It doesn't want to hold a charge anymore, and won't even start up the next morning unless it's been on a tender. Did I kill a $40 battery completely? Oh well, I should probably get a XTA12A-BS instead of the cheapo 9-BS anyway.
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Mar 10, 2011 03:30
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Does replenishing the cells with distilled water help?
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Mar 10, 2011 03:41
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Synonamess Botch posted:Does replenishing the cells with distilled water help? Will give that a try. I was a little worried, I've been warned not to open a battery that has just been under a ton of stress like this one. Do AGM batteries really need water refills? I thought they were different for some reason. It's charging, it just doesn't keep the charge. It takes 4 hours on a trickle charger to reach voltage, but then will discharge itself over the next 20-ish. I'll try opening it up and refilling cells with distilled water before I buy a replacement. Thanks. Edit: It's a YUASA AGM battery, by the way. I'm pretty sure these things are "maintenance free" and you're not supposed to dick with the electrolyte. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Mar 10, 2011 |
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Mar 10, 2011 04:49
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Hopefully someone with a DRZ can help me. What size is the bolt that attaches the coolant overflow bottle to the frame? The PO of my bike took it off and I am putting a new one on, but there is no bolt there now, and I wanted to snag one from work to take home and do it tonight.
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Mar 10, 2011 19:29
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does anybody else accidentally leave their key in the ignition and walk away? Or am I just a massive idiot? actually, probably best if you don't answer that.
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Mar 10, 2011 19:44
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Linedance posted:does anybody else accidentally leave their key in the ignition and walk away? Or am I just a massive idiot? trunk opener thingy, luckily one of the dudes that parks in our motolot saw it chillin and attached it to my disc lock for me 
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Mar 10, 2011 19:53
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Linedance posted:does anybody else accidentally leave their key in the ignition and walk away? Or am I just a massive idiot? Done this multiple times. Porkchop Express posted:Hopefully someone with a DRZ can help me. What size is the bolt that attaches the coolant overflow bottle to the frame? The PO of my bike took it off and I am putting a new one on, but there is no bolt there now, and I wanted to snag one from work to take home and do it tonight. I'd just grab an assortment. I don't have a DRZ frame that I could check anymore.
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Mar 10, 2011 19:55
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Linedance posted:does anybody else accidentally leave their key in the ignition and walk away? Or am I just a massive idiot? No, you're definitely not an idiot. I've actually seen this a couple of times. Twice I've waited by the bike to make sure the actual owner came for it. Luckily for them they came back to the bike within 5 minutes of me waiting. Any more and I probably would have just left; and once a neighbor did it. I pulled the keys out of his bike which was still running and knocked on his door. He had no idea what he had done.
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Mar 10, 2011 20:19
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Probably Hates You posted:No, you're definitely not an idiot. I've actually seen this a couple of times. Twice I've waited by the bike to make sure the actual owner came for it. Luckily for them they came back to the bike within 5 minutes of me waiting. Any more and I probably would have just left; and once a neighbor did it. I pulled the keys out of his bike which was still running and knocked on his door. He had no idea what he had done. I have had this done to me, bike parked outside the house for a couple of hours, someone knocks on the door with my keys in their hand. I've left them in the seat lock and gone for a walk (seat lock always gets me). Usually when I leave them in the ignition I realize within a couple hundred yards... usually. I need a string run through my jacket to the keys like a kid with his mittens.
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Mar 10, 2011 20:23
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When it is raining really hard, my bike is hard to start (even w/ choke) and sputters and spats at low revs. My guess is that my sparkplugs get a bit wet. What can I do to remedy this?
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Mar 10, 2011 20:31
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Linedance posted:does anybody else accidentally leave their key in the ignition and walk away? Or am I just a massive idiot? I've never done this, but that's only because I have the key to my disc lock attached to it, so I have to pull the key out of the ignition to put the disc lock on. What I have amazingly done a couple times now though, is when I'm chaining my bike to a lamp post for the night, I'll actually lock the two ends of the chain together but forget to pass the chain through the rear wheel, so it's just chilling there keeping the lamp-post safe.
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Mar 10, 2011 20:51
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KARMA! posted:When it is raining really hard, my bike is hard to start (even w/ choke) and sputters and spats at low revs. My guess is that my sparkplugs get a bit wet. What can I do to remedy this? Is it an SV650 / some other small V-twin? On SV650s, the front spark plug gets wet and it runs on a single cylinder. The solution to this is to clean out the drain around the front spark plug, which usually gets clogged up by some crap. I've had to do this after I got tired of running on 1 cylinder in the rain.
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Mar 10, 2011 21:07
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KARMA! posted:When it is raining really hard, my bike is hard to start (even w/ choke) and sputters and spats at low revs. My guess is that my sparkplugs get a bit wet. What can I do to remedy this? Check the spark plug caps. Mine were not only cracked but all the rubber parts were rotted through. Some WD40 or other water displacing agent probably wouldn't hurt either.
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Mar 10, 2011 21:27
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Linedance posted:I have had this done to me, bike parked outside the house for a couple of hours, someone knocks on the door with my keys in their hand. I've left them in the seat lock and gone for a walk (seat lock always gets me). Usually when I leave them in the ignition I realize within a couple hundred yards... usually. I 'lost' the key to my bike in the passenger seat lock for two weeks. Yeah. 
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Mar 10, 2011 21:42
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My VF750S keeps eating batteries. I replaced the voltage regulator and the battery at the same time and now that battery won't charge either. What else should I be trying to fix?
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Mar 10, 2011 22:00
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I think I can 1UP everyone with my level of stupidity. I rode my bike home, after just having bought it from the PO, with the documents and some other stuff in the bike's top box. When I got back home, I took the stuff out from the top box and merrily rode around the city for an hour or two. Afterwards I realised I was one key short and I'd left the key in the top box lock, with the spare key for the box and the bike on the same keyring, while I rode around completely oblivious. I walked around in the freezing cold for about 2 hours retracing my route on the off chance that I might find them on the side of the road somewhere, never did though.
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Mar 10, 2011 22:07
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Heh, as long as we're on the subject, just the other day I took my seat off to put a charged battery in, and had to unhook may cargo net to do so, leaving it just dangling down the side. About half way to work, I felt a slight tug and heard sort of a thack sounds, but thought I had just run over a plastic bottle or something. I then suddenly realized I'd forgotten to put the cargo net back on, which had probably just snagged on the rear wheel and launched at 200mph, decapitating a pedestrian. Or it just fell off because I was only going 20 at the time anyways, but I'm drat lucky it didn't get tangled in my chain or something.
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Mar 10, 2011 22:16
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Weinertron posted:Is it an SV650 / some other small V-twin? On SV650s, the front spark plug gets wet and it runs on a single cylinder. The solution to this is to clean out the drain around the front spark plug, which usually gets clogged up by some crap. I've had to do this after I got tired of running on 1 cylinder in the rain. Yeah, but parallel twin. The drain holes are the size of a pencil, so it would be hard to clog 'em up though! makka-setan posted:Check the spark plug caps. Mine were not only cracked but all the rubber parts were rotted through. Some WD40 or other water displacing agent probably wouldn't hurt either. Alright, I'll hunt further. Thanks to both for telling me I'm looking in the right direction!
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Mar 10, 2011 22:26
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WickedSKS posted:My VF750S keeps eating batteries. I replaced the voltage regulator and the battery at the same time and now that battery won't charge either. What else should I be trying to fix? Sounds like your stator or stator wiring is shot. Check it. If you need more instructions, post up and we'll sort you out
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Mar 10, 2011 22:29
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Stupid question, clutchless upshifting? Is this a common way of shifting a some what moderen motorcycle or is it just a sport bike or certin type of transmission thing. I have always pulled the clutch on up and down shifting.
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Mar 10, 2011 22:57
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Yeah, using the clutch is the standard way, but if you match the rpms to the speed of the wheel then there is no force on the tranny so you can nudge it a gear up. If you matched it well then it goes really smoothly without any force needed at all. If you have to kick it you're doing it wrong. Obviously the change in gear ratio leads to rpm and speed not being matched anymore after the change in gear so you have to then account for that. When I upshift without clutch I will go up to pretty high rpms then get off the gas and let them drop a bit and nudge the shifter up. Inverse for shifting down, but I can't get it to shift down as smoothly as up. You can do the same basically in a manual car, although the gears go through the neutral zone in between them so it's a bit different. Edit: http://www.sportrider.com/ride/146_0704_clutchless_upshifting/index.html niethan fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Mar 10, 2011 |
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Mar 10, 2011 23:10
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Z3n posted:Sounds like your stator or stator wiring is shot. Check it. If you need more instructions, post up and we'll sort you out I will check that out! Thanks.
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Mar 10, 2011 23:15
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I know this is very broad, but I am currently in the process of researching a trip from California to Chile. I am at the very early stages of planning (about 1 1/2 years early) so take my questions with a grain of salt. What kind of bike should I be looking at? (Would a SV650 do the trick? or a Sumo? I want to keep the bike budget around $4,000). Has anyone done a trip like this that made a travel blog that I could check out or know of one? Thanks!
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Mar 10, 2011 23:50
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GZA Genius posted:I know this is very broad, but I am currently in the process of researching a trip from California to Chile. I am at the very early stages of planning (about 1 1/2 years early) so take my questions with a grain of salt. Check out PlasticSun's thread here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3346057 ADVrider.com is also a good resource if you can get through the signal to noise ratio. Personally, I'd take a sumo on a trip like that for a number of reasons, probably a DRZ400SM, but that's just one man's opinion, and it really depends on what kind of riding you'd like to do.
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Mar 11, 2011 00:01
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Its that time for my bike. Im close to needing a new chain and need some maintenance done. I can do it myself I'm sure with a manuel. Is there any reason I can't do this?
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Mar 11, 2011 01:38
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