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I'm on the fence about buying a used 2004 Mazda6 Sport. Manual, 93k miles - $8995 and in excellent condition. Push me over the edge please, I am fat. Anything in particular I should look for when I'm test driving it? Any notorious issues that crop up around the miles I'm at? First Time Caller fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Feb 18, 2011 |
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Feb 18, 2011 02:45
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^^^Not much that you would really see. The 2.3 engine has a timing chain, so there is no need to worry about a belt. It should have some of the more intermittent maintenance done like spark plugs, transmission fluid change, coolant flush, etc. A new set of shocks will be in the not too distant future for you as well. If the owner seems oblivious to any of those things, then I would be cautious. If it is from a dealer then check, because most will change the fluids on trade-ins. I would see if you could hold out and find one for fewer miles, or low-ball them. That price seems a little high considering what I have seen in my local market for that car. What trim level is it? Does it have the aero package, leather, Bose, sun roof? I spent the better part of my later afternoon at a friends house working on the MS6 today. I threw a P0401 EGR code last week, which is something like a "EGR Flow" problem. It was on for a day, and then went away the next morning when I started it up and hadn't come back. After some googling, I have found others have this code crop up at ~50K miles (Mine rolled over 50K last week  ). So pulling the EGR and cleaning it out was in order. The Mazda Forum or something had a how-to on a 1st gen MS3 EGR clean. It went well on the tear down, and holy poo poo the amount of carbon build up was incredible. I would say it was up to 1/16" thick in places. After buttoning it back up, we seafoamed it too (used Redline S1, about ~12oz). It was my first time doing it to a car, and seeing it done. If nothing else, it was pretty awesome to watch two entire houses disappear behind a plume of smoke. Whether it was the EGR clean or the seafoam, I have significant improvement of linear acceleration in both moderate driving and boost driving. Where before you could notice a small amount of "stutter" it is now boosting very clean. I am happy with the results! Has anyone else had this happen to their engine?
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Feb 20, 2011 05:08
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Well poo poo, I just got into my car yesterday and noticed that a panel on my dash no loner fits right. I don't remember doing anything to cause this. It's been pretty cold out but otherwise I think it was fine the day before. I tried to push it back in, anybody see this on a Mazda3 before (this is a 2010 Speed3). Sorry for the dust, been too cold to clean my car up.  After I get that sorted out, I was thinking of powdercoating the wheels black or dark grey (my car is black) but I'm not sure how it will look. I think it looks amazing on this white Speed3. I got the idea when I noticed how much I liked the wheels when they were caked in brake dust (but I guess black or grey rims aren't unheard of so whatev). 
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Feb 20, 2011 06:04
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Where before you could notice a small amount of "stutter" it is now boosting very clean. I am happy with the results! Has anyone else had this happen to their engine? I popped P401 a couple weeks ago. Haven't done anything to it other than clear the code, but I know a new throttle body, a thorough EGR cleaning, and a coolant change are in my car's future.
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Feb 20, 2011 08:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:I popped P401 a couple weeks ago. Haven't done anything to it other than clear the code, but I know a new throttle body, a thorough EGR cleaning, and a coolant change are in my car's future. Just curious. Do you guys have some sort of code reader/cable/software, or do you just have the codes cleared at the dealer or an Autozone?
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Feb 20, 2011 08:40
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MetaJew posted:Just curious. Do you guys have some sort of code reader/cable/software, or do you just have the codes cleared at the dealer or an Autozone? http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-OBD-II-Scan/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1298216079&sr=1-1 You can buy a code reader for dirt cheap. Autozone will pull codes but not clear them (technically), and good luck having the dealer pull codes without charging you a diagnostic fee, sometimes in excess of $100.
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Feb 20, 2011 16:36
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I'm almost to 33k now on my MS3. What kind of maintenance do you guys recommend? I'm assuming flushing the following: trans fluid, brake fluid (maybe?) and coolant(maybe?). Anything else I should keep a look at or change out?
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Feb 20, 2011 21:18
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I bought an ElmScan5 a few years ago to do code and sensor reading, these days I'd just buy one of the Chinese ripoffs from Dealextreme or eBay. Edit: At a tick over $20 I'm going to pick up a Bluetooth version, the one I bought was a serial one and I can only use it with my netbook with a USB-serial adapter.
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Feb 20, 2011 21:51
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Shoota_McG posted:After I get that sorted out, I was thinking of powdercoating the wheels black or dark grey (my car is black) but I'm not sure how it will look. I think it looks amazing on this white Speed3. I got the idea when I noticed how much I liked the wheels when they were caked in brake dust (but I guess black or grey rims aren't unheard of so whatev). I may be wrong, but those wheels actually look like they are the forged aluminum wheels off of the RX8 in R2 trim. They are some of the sexiest wheels I have ever seen. When comparing them to the 2010+ Speed3 wheels they seem to have the rotary triangle a little more pronounced. I would love to have a set of them for my MS6, but they would cost a fortune. They are pretty much the only thing I would consider putting on my car from the stock wheels, since I can't see anything else looking good on it.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. IOwnCalculus posted:I popped P401 a couple weeks ago. Haven't done anything to it other than clear the code, but I know a new throttle body, a thorough EGR cleaning, and a coolant change are in my car's future. How many miles is your Speed3 up to? I did not think to look at replacing the throttle body. What is your expected cost on that, and the benefits? I am relatively new to the whole maintenance of a higher performance car, tuning, etc. I lack the sunny 365 day Arizona weather, so I skipped on the coolant change/spark plug change while I was at it yesterday but plan on it when the weather warms up. MetaJew: I just drive to Autozone or Checker, they have scanners and will run out to the parking lot and pull the code for you. Autozone will go a step further and print out a little receipt with the possible scenarios as to what it could be which is pretty cool.
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Feb 21, 2011 02:20
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The throttle body is due to an unrelated code I keep setting once in a while on the first drive of the day when it's cold and/or wet out; early '07s have an old revision of the drive-by-wire throttle body that doesn't like these conditions when combined with a short trip.
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Feb 21, 2011 03:45
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Okay, now is the time for you guys to start trying to convince me not to go for a MS6. I pretty much have the money and now I'm just waiting for the season to change before I bite the bullet. Come on guys, talk me out of it.
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Feb 25, 2011 07:21
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I really like the look of the MS6, minus the taillights. Get one.  Tonight I learned that if I'm putting along in second gear and then floor it I can spin the front tires once I hit boost. I'm worried that I'm going to have to get new tires soon if I keep doing this. :/
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Feb 25, 2011 10:08
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Rhyno posted:Okay, now is the time for you guys to start trying to convince me not to go for a MS6. I pretty much have the money and now I'm just waiting for the season to change before I bite the bullet. Come on guys, talk me out of it. Every single MS6 I know has had horrible problems and at least $1000 of shop bills this year.
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Feb 25, 2011 15:39
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Rhyno posted:Okay, now is the time for you guys to start trying to convince me not to go for a MS6. I pretty much have the money and now I'm just waiting for the season to change before I bite the bullet. Come on guys, talk me out of it. Rhyno, get a mazdaspeed3 instead, I'm picking up a 2011 tomorrow and we could be Fort Wayne mazdaspeed buddies
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Feb 25, 2011 16:29
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MetaJew posted:I really like the look of the MS6, minus the taillights. Get one. If you have the DSC off you can spin the fronts in third even.
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Feb 25, 2011 16:38
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Brain Issues posted:Rhyno, get a mazdaspeed3 instead, I'm picking up a 2011 tomorrow and we could be Fort Wayne mazdaspeed buddies I don't like the current styling at all man. But we can still be Mazdaspeed buddies if I get a 6!
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Feb 25, 2011 20:09
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Rhyno posted:I don't like the current styling at all man. But we can still be Mazdaspeed buddies if I get a 6! Yeahh, seems like people either really like the new styling or really hate it. I love ittt. Get the speed6!! Definitely inspect the poo poo out of one before you get it though.
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Feb 25, 2011 23:37
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Rhyno posted:I don't like the current styling at all man. But we can still be Mazdaspeed buddies if I get a 6! If you're willing to fly out to Dallas and drive the car back, I can point you to a couple guys that are selling their 1st gen MS3's. I believe one might have less than 30k miles. e: here's one: http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/2212671069.html
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Feb 26, 2011 02:15
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I'm looking to buy a post 2008 refresh mazdaspeed3, are there any specific issues I should be looking for when inspecting the car?
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Feb 26, 2011 15:51
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air- posted:If you're willing to fly out to Dallas and drive the car back, I can point you to a couple guys that are selling their 1st gen MS3's. I believe one might have less than 30k miles. 17.5k for a 2007 Speed3 is waaaay too much.
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Feb 26, 2011 17:38
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Bovine Delight posted:17.5k for a 2007 Speed3 is waaaay too much. Hell, I got my 2010 new for 19k.
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Feb 26, 2011 17:44
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Lowball posted:I'm looking to buy a post 2008 refresh mazdaspeed3, are there any specific issues I should be looking for when inspecting the car? Ask the owner what TSB's have been done on the car. And for the '07 MS3, that's an asking price, so I doubt he'll end up actually selling the car for that much.
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Feb 26, 2011 19:37
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 Joined the MZR family on Monday 
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Mar 3, 2011 05:18
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Funding Achieved. Car search commencing.
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Mar 8, 2011 02:09
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Rhyno posted:Funding Achieved. I hope you can find a good example of a Speed6, they are AWESOME. So is the speed3, good god I'm loving mine so far
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Mar 8, 2011 02:15
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Brain Issues posted:HELL YES! Not looking good so far. There's one that meets my requirements in Florida but I don't know if it's worth flying 900 miles to buy a car.
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Mar 8, 2011 02:20
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Flying out isn't worth it. The amazing road trip back, however, is.
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Mar 8, 2011 02:46
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After only 75k miles, my girlfriend's 2006 Mazda 3's motor popped. It developed a knock out of nowhere a few nights ago and within a day the engine blew on I91 trying to get it home to the mechanic. Huge hole in the shortblock now. Mechanic says he can find a used longblock with about 25k on it and replace it for the same price as rebuilding the bottom end would be (about $5k labor included). If she still owes $5k on the car, do you think it would be better to fix it and keep driving, or just try to sell it as a roller (for like $3k I'm hoping), cut our loses, and find a new car? Have any of you had to do an engine replacement before on an MZR? Other than some random small issues this car has been wonderful. Really surprised us how catastrophic the engine failure was. Gas Break Dip fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Mar 10, 2011 |
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Mar 10, 2011 19:30
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Gas Break Dip posted:If she still owes $5k on the car, do you think it would be better to fix it and keep driving, or just try to sell it as a roller (for like $3k I'm hoping), cut our loses, and find a new car? Have any of you had to do an engine replacement before on an MZR? I think you repair it if you think you can get some money later on as a trade-in or selling it. I would think the blue book value is like 5k-7k if it was in great condtion. So you owe 5k and need to put 5k in on a (at best) 7k car, I'd just cut my losses.
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Mar 11, 2011 00:57
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Anyone know of a good ODBII monitor like the dashhawk? I was about to get one when I discovered they were discontinued so I'd never be able to get another cable, etc. if it broke.
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Mar 12, 2011 19:49
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Summer tires/wheels finally back on. No more steelies and squirmy blizzaks, my car is fun to drive again! I haven't washed it since before winter but it poured the past couple days so it looks surprisingly clean.
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Mar 12, 2011 22:32
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Rhyno posted:Okay, now is the time for you guys to start trying to convince me not to go for a MS6. I pretty much have the money and now I'm just waiting for the season to change before I bite the bullet. Come on guys, talk me out of it. I know that you have posted a few times since this, but I thought I would reply. As an owner of a 2006 MS6 as of late December, I thought I would share my thoughts on a few things: Really put on paper what you want to find in your MS6. For me, I did not want Black (had a Black 6S before). It needed to have 50K> miles, and ZERO modifications, and be priced at $15K>. I didn't really want the leather seats, since I had them on my old 6, and I frankly am not a big enough/fat enough goon to fit in them. I slid all over. The sunroof I was okay either having or not having, same with the SatNav system. I found one that fit my list and bought it. There are a few things that were cosmetically wrong with it, it has a fair amount of paintless dent removal work to be done (waiting for warmer weather) and rock chips to get fixed. What I did not know however was that the transmission was having some issues. I unfortunately didn't really flog the car when I test drove it, and as a result did not know that the second gear was having some problems. It would take some time before it would go into gear. Also at slower speeds in parking lots, or residential streets, it would pull itself out of second. The manufacturer warranty was up, and I did opt to buy into an aftermarket extended warranty, since it was a refundable one if I decided later I didn't want it. It also upped my payments ten bucks a month, so I figured why not. Thank goodness I did! I bought the car from a non-Mazda dealership, and the warranty would have no deductible when work was done from the place I bought it, but a $100 deductible would be charged to have a Mazda dealership work on it. I took it to Bountiful Mazda because I decided I wanted to have them do the work. They were able to do the work under warranty, and it cost me the $100 bucks (which Mazda charges for a diagnostic fee anyways) to get the 2nd gear replaced, syncro, clutch hub, and a couple other things. They also noticed a leak on the transfer case, so they sealed that up. With labor and parts, it rang up to about ~$2900. Long story short - bank on every single 2006 you see out of the factory warranty, and on 2007's being just about, if not out of warranty. Powertrain on the '07 was to 60K miles compared to the 50K on the '06. Buy an extended warranty that is worth a crap. You will be hard pressed to find one that is perfect. I have found that it is a car for someone that really loves the car for what it is. A Subaru Legacy GT, or a WRX is probably a better car. You just have to know that there will be problems, and if you are willing to fix it you will be rewarded with a very awesome, very unique car. I absolutely love mine! That probably has a lot to do with me dreaming about them for a couple of years. People that know what they are respect them, and for me it is about being somewhat obtuse in my choice of car. If you have any other questions let me know!
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Mar 14, 2011 00:34
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Blackstone report back on Pennzoil Euro 5w40 on a ~9300 interval. In a nutshell, looks like there's no feasible way to get to a 10k OCI on this engine: I'm running the 5w40 again now but given the cost difference, I'll go back to 5w30 for half the cost and run it at 7000 mile intervals.
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Mar 16, 2011 01:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Blackstone report back on Pennzoil Euro 5w40 on a ~9300 interval. In a nutshell, looks like there's no feasible way to get to a 10k OCI on this engine: Are 8k+ oil changes really what people are doing these days? Over how much time are you putting on that many miles? I'm about to change the oil in my MS3 for the first time, and I was planning on going with 5W40 Rotella at ~3k mile intervals. Maybe that interval is relatively short these days, but 8-10k miles seems really high to me. (I can't make any comments on the UOA. That's all moon language to me at the moment.) MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Mar 16, 2011 |
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Mar 16, 2011 01:41
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I rack up on the order of 25k miles a year. I started off doing 4000 mile intervals due to all of the concern with fuel dilution and was changing my oil every other month. Based on the UOA results I've been ramping it up closer to Mazda's 'non heavy duty' schedule, and based on the last one it seemed like a 9-10k mile interval would be within reach; obviously not. I'm not surprised, I saw quite a bit more 'color' to the inside of the filter housing this time around.
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Mar 16, 2011 01:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:I rack up on the order of 25k miles a year. I started off doing 4000 mile intervals due to all of the concern with fuel dilution and was changing my oil every other month. Based on the UOA results I've been ramping it up closer to Mazda's 'non heavy duty' schedule, and based on the last one it seemed like a 9-10k mile interval would be within reach; obviously not. Going off your UOA does fuel dilution appear to be a problem? I assume the most recent one, "TR" means trace, or not measurable?
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Mar 16, 2011 02:23
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Yeah, you can see my historical ones in the same image - 0, 0, and some unmeasurable trace. I do drive the car almost exclusively on long drives (vast majority of the miles are put on 25 miles at a time on my commute) so if you do a lot of short trips, you may well have the fuel dilution issues other people have reported that will result in shorter oil life.
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Mar 16, 2011 03:16
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Guys, I've got the mod bug but I'm not sure which direction to go now. It's my daily driver with 33,7xx on it and a Cobb SRI and TIP. Input and suggestions? Downpipe, fuel pump, AP (w/ cold plugs), RMM..? If I did a test pipe instead of a dp, would the gains still be significant or is it best to just spend the extra cash and go dp?
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Mar 19, 2011 23:27
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Sublime Process posted:Guys, I've got the mod bug but I'm not sure which direction to go now. It's my daily driver with 33,7xx on it and a Cobb SRI and TIP. Rear motor mount is one of the best mods for a daily driver, along with Cobb's/CPE's shifter weight. Just really prefer the more solid mount, plus shifting feels smoother.
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Mar 19, 2011 23:33
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air- posted:Rear motor mount is one of the best mods for a daily driver, along with Cobb's/CPE's shifter weight. What exactly makes the shifter weight worth it? I'm kind of ignorant on that part. Edit: I quit being lazy and read Cobb's page: Improved shift feel and stays in gear during driving. Is gear pop that common for people? It never happens to me unless I just gently caress up shifting. Sublime Process fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Mar 19, 2011 |
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Mar 19, 2011 23:34
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