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AncientTV posted:Can someone who is adept in the ways of the carb hit me up on AIM? I'm following FactoryPro's instructions for rejetting, tuning from high to low RPM ranges, but I'm having a bitch of a time getting the idle and low-end situated enough to even ride the drat thing. AIM handle is my username. So... spill the beans, what did you do??! NitroSpazzz posted:The CRF I picked up last weekend won't stop leaking oil. It is leaking from the engine side oil drain screw. At first I thought it was from used crush washers so I changed the oil again and put a new set in...still leaks. I am torquing the bolt to the specified torque per the manual. If you've put a new washer in, that should seal it. Try taking it off again and check for any dirt or grit on the surfaces (with a new crush washer as well). Might be worth getting a new drain bolt, just in case.
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Mar 16, 2011 14:05
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Z3n posted:They have you remove the plug because it's easier to turn the engine over when you don't have to fight the compression. I rarely remove plugs during valve checks, but I'm particularly paranoid about dropping a shim into the head or something. A good strong Nd magnet is your friend; I lift out and set shims on my bike exclusively with the magnet that is fitted into the handle of my 'dentist' pick/probe.
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Mar 16, 2011 15:09
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ReelBigLizard posted:A good strong Nd magnet is your friend; I lift out and set shims on my bike exclusively with the magnet that is fitted into the handle of my 'dentist' pick/probe. I picked up the same thing the first time I did the valves. I got some poo poo from the employees for my "probe kit", but it made an easy job easier. NitroSpazzz posted:When I got the bike and drained the oil last Saturday the bolt was way over-torqued and I'm wondering if that messed up the threads on the bolt or in the case causing the leak. Is this possible? It could be. I don't know how soft the metal is on your bike, but on my Husky I ripped the threads out of the hole by hand tightening it with a socket screwdriver. The thing with these really low torque ratings (less than 15ft-lbs) is you might not even feel the "click" from the torque wrench and over-torque it anyway.
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Mar 16, 2011 17:11
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It is the easiest thing to test the torque wrench on a similarly sized bolt before you ruin integral engine components. I snapped a bolt in my clutch basket trying to figure out what 12 Nm was supposed to feel like and waiting for the click.
Ola fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Mar 16, 2011 |
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Mar 16, 2011 17:32
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Forty Two posted:So... spill the beans, what did you do??! I'm having to rejet the bike because the PO put an aftermarket pipe and pod filter on, and at idle/just off idle, they're making the bike run crazy lean. I was trying to remedy this with mixture screw and float level adjustments until z3n helped me realize that my Factory Pro jetkit came with richer pilot jets 
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Mar 16, 2011 17:49
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ReelBigLizard posted:A good strong Nd magnet is your friend; I lift out and set shims on my bike exclusively with the magnet that is fitted into the handle of my 'dentist' pick/probe. It's an unreasonable paranoia. I have a magnet that I use to pull valve buckets and shims out but I'm still paranoid. It's dumb but just how I am. I could also remove the spark plug and shove a rag down the plug tunnel but it's a combination of  and 
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Mar 16, 2011 18:34
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Z3n posted:I could also remove the spark plug and shove a rag down the plug tunnel I can't do this, the fear of shoving grit into the cylinder gives me cold sweats and double vision.
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Mar 16, 2011 18:36
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Ola posted:I can't do this, the fear of shoving grit into the cylinder gives me cold sweats and double vision. I have to wonder how many people who work on their own bikes have these odd random phobias.
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Mar 16, 2011 18:41
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When I pull the head cover off or do anything where the engine is exposed I cover it with saran wrap. Then again, I found a mouse nest under the gas tank so I think it's justified.
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Mar 16, 2011 18:46
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Z3n posted:I have to wonder how many people who work on their own bikes have these odd random phobias. It's funny that way. Person 1: Has a brand new GSXR1000. Noticed the oil level was below lower marker but bike ran fine so didn't bother with it until next dealer service. Person 2: Has a 1976 CB450, thought he saw a bee fly into the airbox, browsing eBay for a lathe that fits in the garage to fabricate own piston rings for preemptive rebuild.
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Mar 16, 2011 19:17
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Anyone here got any experience replacing EFI with a carburetor? I'm getting hosed off with injection.
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Mar 17, 2011 15:54
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ReelBigLizard posted:Anyone here got any experience replacing EFI with a carburetor? I'm getting hosed off with injection. Why do this to the 690? If its too brutal for you these days, grab a tuneboy and smooth it out. I know that the 990 adventure was a common case for switching to Carb over EFI, there may be some good info there, but I don't think I've ever seen it done on a 690.
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Mar 17, 2011 15:58
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ReelBigLizard posted:Anyone here got any experience replacing EFI with a carburetor? I'm getting hosed off with injection. I've helped with a few flatslide swaps on gen 2s. But I wouldn't do it on the 690. What issues are you having?
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Mar 17, 2011 18:26
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It it a total common newbie mistake to constantly forget to turn your turn signal off? I'm new to motorcycling after 3+ years of riding a scooter with a totally loud and obnoxious TICKTOCKTICKTOCK turn signal. The one on my new bike is near silent.
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Mar 17, 2011 21:14
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Bukanza posted:It it a total common newbie mistake to constantly forget to turn your turn signal off? Yes. Get into the habit of canceling turn signals every time you turn, even if you didn't use it. It's a problem because sometimes people will turn in front of you if they think you're going to slow down to make a turn.
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Mar 17, 2011 21:21
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It's pretty amazing how quickly it becomes second nature to cancel it though. I've only been riding like six months now, and I already do it without thinking about it, and even find myself manually turning it off in my car. The only problem is that when I have thick gloves on, I sometimes don't hit it hard enough or straight on, and don't notice for a bit that I didn't actually cancel it when I thought that I did.
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Mar 17, 2011 21:26
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Press that button every time you're not thinking about your turn signal. Mine has a different feel whether my turn signal is on or not that silently tells me that my bike's ashamed for me not paying enough attention. I'm sorry bike, I won't do it again, honest!  (My internal monologue is hilarious. Well, to me anyway. "poo poo I haven't checked my signal, I hope I don't feel that click... Phew, no click. Yeah I'm still a boss.")
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Mar 17, 2011 21:28
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It's such a ingrained thing to do I find myself hitting the turn signal button when the road just bends. I also mash on it for no good reason frequently. ...sometimes to do a little NASA style count down before a wheelie... Or to pretend its like a Nike shoe you pump up to make more awesome. 5 or 6 pumps before a good set of twisties I usually find is about right.
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Mar 17, 2011 21:29
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Spiffness posted:It's such a ingrained thing to do I find myself hitting the turn signal button when the road just bends. This explains so much about what went on when I was visiting in Seattle.
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Mar 17, 2011 21:38
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Z3n posted:It's a problem because sometimes people will turn in front of you if they think you're going to slow down to make a turn. This is why turn signal indicators are an important safety feature. They should be bright enough to give you a tan if left on. You might win in court if someone does turn in front of you...indicating does not mean giving up your right of way. But you'll be rolled victorious out of the courtroom in a wheelchair.
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Mar 17, 2011 22:28
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Spiffness posted:Why do this to the 690? I guess there is no overriding reason, just a lot of smaller frustrations. The FI locks you down to paying for re-maps by the dealership (and mine is poo poo now since they lost their good mechanic) or paying through the nose for things like tuneboy or vortex systems, neither of which give you any option to really dig into the workings of the ECU further than messing around with the fueling table. I'm a tinkerer, I don't feel like I own something until I've owned it. I have no qualms about cleaning/tuning/adjusting carbs. I'm a software developer by profession and an electronics enthusiast by hobby, this isn't some "hurr, technolgy is bad because I don't understant it" thing. In my opinion the ECU on the 690 is probably what lets it down the most. The other consideration is cost, if that wasn't an issue I'd probably be looking seriously at a replacement ECU. According to reviews the Vortex replacement is excellent but the Vortex is currently $1000 USD here in the UK, and more on top of that for the editing software. An FCR41 would run half that (maybe even less from eBay), be easier to fix on the road and make it easier to modify the bike; I'd like to experiment with removing the huge airbox and replacing the exhaust with something lighter, cooler and smaller. Spiffness posted:If its too brutal for you Them's fightin' words
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Mar 18, 2011 14:30
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ReelBigLizard posted:I guess there is no overriding reason, just a lot of smaller frustrations. The FI locks you down to paying for re-maps by the dealership (and mine is poo poo now since they lost their good mechanic) or paying through the nose for things like tuneboy or vortex systems, neither of which give you any option to really dig into the workings of the ECU further than messing around with the fueling table. Err, a Tuneboy lets you play around with pretty much everything in the ECU. That's the point of it over a Powercommander.
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Mar 18, 2011 14:40
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Err, a Tuneboy lets you play around with pretty much everything in the ECU. That's the point of it over a Powercommander. Hmm, I must admit it's been a while since I had looked at their site (it used to be a godawful, contradictory mess). It's still unclear on how much of that is supported for my particular bike though; "and will soon support the new 690 SuperMoto." This also gets my hackles up: "Note: A TuneEdit key is for a single ECU, this cannot be transferred." and also: "A PC running Windows 95,98,ME,XP,NT4 or 2000" I don't currently own any machines running 10+ year old OS's, yes I can probably sort one out but it will take up space I don't have and likely cost me more money too.
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Mar 18, 2011 15:01
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I get it, id like to do a cone filter and proper tune too Tuneboy will work on newer systems, and you can always virtualize.
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Mar 18, 2011 16:34
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ReelBigLizard posted:An FCR41 would run half that (maybe even less from eBay), be easier to fix on the road and make it easier to modify the bike; I'd like to experiment with removing the huge airbox and replacing the exhaust with something lighter, cooler and smaller. If you've got access to a dyno, hell yeah. Post a thread when you do it.
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Mar 18, 2011 17:19
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ReelBigLizard posted:Hmm, I must admit it's been a while since I had looked at their site (it used to be a godawful, contradictory mess). It's still unclear on how much of that is supported for my particular bike though; I dunno if it's transferrable.. but I have a tuneboy on my crashed 675 that I'm trying to offload. Also, look into OpenECU, which is what I'm going to be using this time around as it's free.99
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Mar 18, 2011 17:39
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Spiffness posted:and you can always virtualize. I was under the impression that flashing embedded systems with virtual machines was troublesome at best and catastrophic at worst. The fear of bricking my ECU has prevented me from even considering that avenue but things may have changed. I already virtualise for CAD work on my Mac. One other benefit of going down the carb route, at least over the Vortex, if it doesn't work out I can easily offload a generic FCR on eBay and just re-fit the injection system. One other reason I failed to mention in my previous post: I'm really loving curious about just how hard it is to do, I love a challenge. Lastly; I hadn't even considered converting to carb as an option until I found the Rallye parts fiche. Turns out that the KTM Rallye team had ditched EFI in favour of an FCR 41. I still have the fiche and I have some very useful part numbers.
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Mar 18, 2011 18:24
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Q: Help Cycle Asylum, I'm running a java injection/ignition app in XP compatibility mode on Windows 7 on VMWare on an Unbuntu install on my ECU and it idles rough. A: Clean out /etc/carbs/
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Mar 18, 2011 18:34
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Ola posted:Q: Help Cycle Asylum, I'm running a java injection/ignition app in XP compatibility mode on Windows 7 on VMWare on an Unbuntu install on my ECU and it idles rough. Team Ola. RBL, go for it. I knew the rally team preferred carb over efi. You'll probably see some gains just having the ability to do what you want with the intake cycle.
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Mar 18, 2011 20:37
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Spiffness posted:Team Ola. Team Ola indeed. Honestly, the FI on the 690, while amazing for track use is a little uncompromising for general riding. The flattie on the DRZ I have in the garage right now (and the GSX-R, properly mapped), have reminded me that sometimes it's about usability, not instant response. Of course, READY TO RACE.
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Mar 18, 2011 21:09
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I was planning to do some electrolysis this weekend to finish cleaning a gas tank out so I can repaint, but the tank has a huge patch of bondo on one side. Will electrolysis remove this bondo as well or just the rust? The inside of the tank has a pretty solid film of rust and I don't know of any other particularly easy way to get to it.
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Mar 18, 2011 23:40
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I'm gonna start studying the PA MC Operator's Manual a little more seriously than I have been and I plan to take the permit test within the next week. Anything I should focus on? I'm bad at studying.
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Mar 19, 2011 07:02
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PestiferousTrollop posted:I was planning to do some electrolysis this weekend to finish cleaning a gas tank out so I can repaint, but the tank has a huge patch of bondo on one side. Will electrolysis remove this bondo as well or just the rust? The inside of the tank has a pretty solid film of rust and I don't know of any other particularly easy way to get to it. I assume that bondo is some form of resin type compound? Electrolysis won't touch that.
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Mar 19, 2011 09:03
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Fifty Three posted:I'm gonna start studying the PA MC Operator's Manual a little more seriously than I have been and I plan to take the permit test within the next week. Anything I should focus on? I'm bad at studying. If it's anything like the FL test, it'll be hilariously easy. As long as your memory is any better than a brain-dead mosquito's, you should be ok with reading the manual through a couple times. The test was largely common sense.
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Mar 19, 2011 16:50
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Fifty Three posted:I'm gonna start studying the PA MC Operator's Manual a little more seriously than I have been and I plan to take the permit test within the next week. Anything I should focus on? I'm bad at studying. All I did was read through it, print out the practice test and took that, then went and took the test and got all the questions right. It's pretty easy.
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Mar 19, 2011 17:45
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Hey guys. I got a new job and I want to get a motorcycle since I won't be riding on the highways and just local roads to work. I'm thinking a ninja250 just cause I don't want something that's gonna send me flying off my bike. How much should I expect to pay for a used ninja250R? Also, can someome tell me all the questions I need to ask when going in to buy a used bike? I know can probably haggle in a free helmet or something. And lastly, how about financing. I can put down $1000, but would like to finance the other 2-3 grand. What should I be aware of predatory lending wise?
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Mar 19, 2011 18:33
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Newt Gingrich posted:Hey guys. I got a new job and I want to get a motorcycle since I won't be riding on the highways and just local roads to work. I'm thinking a ninja250 just cause I don't want something that's gonna send me flying off my bike. Look around this wiki and just get familiar with the bike: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/New_Riders I can't think of any common problems with it to look out for but I'm sure there's some info there somewhere. Easiest way to haggle is to look at wear items - chain, sprockets, tires. If they look worn out you can haggle down. Price is going to vary a lot with condition and location and which generation you want (I assume you want the pre08 model). I can find near perfect condition ones 07 and earlier for about 2000 all day where I live. Also, don't wear a used helmet. It's gross and there's no way to tell if the foam inside has been crushed already. It's also important to get one that actually fits you. My only experience financing is with cars and from what I know it's going to be difficult to finance such a small amount. If you finance through a dealership, never negotiate monthly payments, only the final price. Be sure to know any interest rate penalties or fees.
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Mar 19, 2011 19:51
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Fifty Three posted:I'm gonna start studying the PA MC Operator's Manual a little more seriously than I have been and I plan to take the permit test within the next week. Anything I should focus on? I'm bad at studying. If you are chased by a dog: A. Kick it away. B. Stop until the animal loses interest. C. Swerve around the animal. D. Approach the animal slowly, then speed up. I love to kick dogs while I'm on my motorcycle.
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Mar 19, 2011 19:51
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Don't finance a motorcycle. You can get a decent bike under $1500 on Craigslist, although you might want to wait until Fall.
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Mar 19, 2011 20:50
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Newt Gingrich posted:Hey guys. I got a new job and I want to get a motorcycle since I won't be riding on the highways and just local roads to work. I'm thinking a ninja250 just cause I don't want something that's gonna send me flying off my bike. In addendum to the other posts, this is a very thorough guide to what to look for on used bikes: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html It'd be a good idea to bring someone along that's knowledgeable on bikes for their experienced pair of eyes. Plus, they'd be able to test ride it to determine any major issues (bent frame, running poor, doesn't track straight, etc.).
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Mar 19, 2011 21:47
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