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-Inu- posted:If it's anything like georgia, you'll be given questions such as this one, which has always been one of my favourites: So which is the correct answer? I think in my fully-geared up state I could take a dog on no prob.
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Mar 19, 2011 21:55
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If memory serves from my MSF, I seem to recall it being D. You want to slow down so the dog sets a particular vector of approach, and then speed up briskly to throw off it's momentum in your direction.
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Mar 19, 2011 21:57
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Gnaghi posted:So which is the correct answer? I think in my fully-geared up state I could take a dog on no prob. I'm almost certain that its "B" according to the MSF. Personally, depending on the circumstances, I would stop, sidestand the bike, get off and chase off whatever animal was harassing me (or you know, in the case of a bear/cougar/etc just gun it the gently caress out of there in whichever direction contains the least amount of bear/cougar/etc).
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Mar 19, 2011 22:50
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The funny thing is bears, cougars, mountain lions, etc. are supposed to be avoidant of humans even off a bike, yet dogs will chase after them regularly. drat domestication.
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Mar 19, 2011 23:54
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-Inu- posted:If it's anything like georgia, you'll be given questions such as this one, which has always been one of my favourites:  This is actually one of the questions on the PA op manual practice test, word for word. On the subject of used bikes, I can't seem to find anything worthwhile (i.e. clean title, light if any body damage, all parts intact, running, not obviously stolen) under $2500, and very very few Ninja 250s.  I don't wanna wait until Fall for the right deal but I might have to.
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Mar 20, 2011 00:10
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I live in chicago so I would like to ride in the summer time
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Mar 20, 2011 18:37
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Gnaghi posted:The funny thing is bears, cougars, mountain lions, etc. are supposed to be avoidant of humans even off a bike, yet dogs will chase after them regularly. drat domestication. And yeah, the answer to that is D. Its too hard for the dog to process the differentiation in speed, so it just gets confused.
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Mar 20, 2011 18:52
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Yeah, my MSF class actually taught us that one, although I don't think it was on the test. Apparently dogs are smart enough to detect your speed, and set a trajectory towards you so that they'll meet you at a point ahead. If you slow down when you see the dog, it will start on a path towards that point, but if you speed up halfway through it won't have time to recalculate (it is just a dog after all), and you'll pass it safely. Sure, you could kick it, but what if it just wanted to be friends?
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Mar 20, 2011 20:34
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A friend of mine just showed me this site http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/StoreFront.bok Is it a good place to order from? I need new gloves and pants. Plus the have Rossi replica helmets...
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Mar 20, 2011 21:11
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STG is a great place to order from. They do GREAT videos of almost all their major stuff so you can get a better look at it before buying.
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Mar 20, 2011 21:18
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-Inu- posted:If you are chased by a dog: Where's the "Flick Killswitch off for a second then on again" option
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Mar 20, 2011 23:38
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Gnaghi posted:I think in my fully-geared up state I could take a dog on no prob. This raises a whole new question though, I mean which animals could you take on in full moto gear? I reckon I could lay the boot in on a Badger.
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Mar 21, 2011 15:24
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I want to see a full-on power ranger take on a bear.
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Mar 21, 2011 16:18
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Well, which animals could get through leather and hard armor? A lot of jackets these days have additional hard armor in the chest and back (think A* upgradable bioarmor). I think a pitbull or something might be able to get through, though they might have a harder time getting a hold and the teeth wouldn't puncture as deep if it was on an armored area (the upper thigh or calf would be vulnerable areas). Dogs and animals that go for the neck like wolves would have a hard time cause just looking down would basically cover you from the front, giving you the chance to punch or kick it with armored gloves and boots. I think a dog, especially a regular dog, wouldn't be as much threat as a linx or some middleweight cat. A linx would tend to use its claws and might be able to cut through leather. However since cats tend to go for the face and also the hands when you hit them, I think you'd be fairly protected. Maybe I could take a linx too. Birds would be no problem, even crazy birds like falcons and eagles wouldn't be able to get at my eyes or face and even if my legs or arms got a little sliced up I'd smack it down as it swooped in. Yes Falcons fly really really fast, but superspeed divebombs are geared towards small animals like rabbits. When they attack humans they tend to slow down and hover while using their claws. When they do divebomb it's going to be at the head/helmet. Obviously big things like bears and tigers will rip you apart no matter what, they're unfathomably strong. Leather is a non-issue for primates in general, since they can just break bones with their crazy strength; a gorilla might even crack a helmet. I mentioned a wolf, but I was mainly talking about a single one, a pack a wolves would probably mean the end for me, since wolves tend to not give up like a lot of other animals will after a hit or two and I wouldn't be able to cover my neck from all sides. Even a one-on-one fight would basically mean I'd have to really injure or kill the wolf for the fight to end. For additional information, please see Wild Animal Fight Club. Maybe I should email them and ask them to add ATGATT Motorcyclist to the list.
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Mar 21, 2011 16:21
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And yet a single bee hitting in just the right gap in the leathers can still take us down ...
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Mar 21, 2011 16:40
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Gnaghi posted:Leather is a non-issue for primates in general, since they can just break bones with their crazy strength; a gorilla might even crack a helmet. Gorillas would probably be able to get a good hold on the helmet which would give them extra leverage to snap your neck... 'reckon I could kick the poo poo out of a medium sized Baboon, but that's as big as I would dare go primate wise. Those fuckers are cunning. Edit: how about aquatic animals, like crocs or small sharks?
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Mar 21, 2011 18:08
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ReelBigLizard posted:Gorillas would probably be able to get a good hold on the helmet which would give them extra leverage to snap your neck... Even the small baboons are ludicrously strong. I'd say that primates are where I'd draw the line. I think that you could handle most small sharks, crocs would be pushing it, and single dogs you'd be able to put the hurt on before they could take you down. I wouldn't want to try and take on packs of dogs.
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Mar 21, 2011 18:19
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I'd just like to point out that this is the best bit of conversation in 245 pages of this thread. And if you're in the kind of place that wild animals are going to attack you in your motorcycle gear, you're probably wearing a textile adventure suit. I think then even a large eagle could mortally wound you.
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Mar 21, 2011 18:58
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republic posted:If memory serves from my MSF, I seem to recall it being D. You want to slow down so the dog sets a particular vector of approach, and then speed up briskly to throw off it's momentum in your direction. *calculating dog vectors* *reticulating splines*
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Mar 21, 2011 19:19
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I am having issues with my decomp cable for my 2006 KTM 625 SMC. First off, I have it fully slacked out at both ends (lever and at the engine) and I have very little slack on the cable. When the arm is on the metal stop, I have no slack with the lever - any pull on the lever will take the arm off the stop. Also, whenever I do full lock right, the cable snags on something (maybe coolant hose?) and it kills the engine, so I'm suspecting the cable is routed incorrectly. Lastly, and most puzzling to me, on cold mornings (when the overnight temp is around freezing), I find that the arm is stuck about a cm above the metal stop and refuses to back down and touch it, regardless of what I do with the lever. I'm suspecting that this is why my bike is sometimes a bitch to start in the cold - the decomp lever is holding the valves partially open. After riding it for a bit, the arm seems to drop back down to the stop. I need to know how this cable is supposed to be routed and what kind of slack I need. The manual calls for 10mm, it looks like, but is that 10mm of lever pull before the arm is lifted off the stop, or before I feel pulsations in the lever? I did a Google search for cable routing and came up with zip. Maybe another 625 owner like needknees can help me out?
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Mar 21, 2011 19:56
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A buddy of mine is selling a Bitubo steering dampener for pretty cheap ($250 instead of $550 new), and I'm thinking of picking it up for my monster. I never had one on my M900 or 998, so I'm curious if it would be worth it? My new bike doesn't have much head shake, but I guess safer the better?
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Mar 21, 2011 23:33
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I'd go with a Scotts rotary type damper if you're going to go with a steering damper. The liner type are ok, but they can only respond one way to input, as they don't have multiple damping circuits. You can only increase the resistance at the bars which only gives you a gain in stability at the cost of seriously slowing down your steering. The good rotary types (Scotts in the US, Ohlins overseas) let you adjust for both normal steering input and the quick hits that will cause a tankslapper, giving you resistance when you need it and normal steering when you don't. Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Mar 21, 2011 |
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Mar 21, 2011 23:41
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Are EBC and Galfer brake pads just OEM replacements, or are they actually upgrades? I think the Bandit still has the OEM pads on it and its time for them to go. I'd like to upgrade the pads while I'm at it, but I'm not sure whats actually an upgrade, performance-wise, and whats just an OEM equivalent. Also, sintered, organic, carbon compound, what does everyone recommend? I'm thinking organic because I hear sintered tears up your rotors, is there any truth to that? Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Mar 22, 2011 |
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Mar 22, 2011 01:09
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Phat_Albert posted:Are EBC and Galfer brake pads just OEM replacements, or are they actually upgrades? I think the Bandit still has the OEM pads on it and its time for them to go. They've got different types of pads. You can figure that OEM pads are going to be equivalent to the organic pads, the sintered stuff is more performance oriented, and then in the EBC line you've got the extreme pros which are the crazy race pads. So basically...it depends. What pads are you looking at? I've always run sintered stuff, and haven't had a problem with it tearing up rotors, but you're stopping a bigger bike and a lot of that is going to depend on your riding style.
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Mar 22, 2011 01:12
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Hmm, Carbonne Lorraine has their XBK5 pads for the front of the Bandit and the RX3 for the rear. I've never heard anything bad about CL, and their the same price as the sintered EBC and Galfer brakes from BikeBandit. Is there a reason I shouldnt do the CL's?
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Mar 22, 2011 01:23
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Phat_Albert posted:Is there a reason I shouldnt do the CL's? Nope, pads are a pretty personal thing. I went through affairs with half a dozen pads till I finally settled on the EBC Extreme Pros on the racebike, each pad will have a different initial bite and characteristics depending on a bunch of factors so I vote go for it and post up what you think. I've never heard anything bad about CL either, FWIW. You can also contact speed addict cycles and see if they can hook you up on a better price on the EBC stuff: schad@speedaddictcycles.com, if you feel so inclined. Let him know Conan recommended you to get the additional discount.
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Mar 22, 2011 01:55
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Phat_Albert posted:Is there a reason I shouldnt do the CL's? Swedish Motorrad tested pads in 2008, and the only exceptional thing about CL was that they gave much higher wear on the disc than the other brands in the test. Otherwise they where average in every aspect. Brembo and Lucas where the test winners, which really wasn't a surprise, but the surprise was that they weren't any more expensive than the rest.
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Mar 22, 2011 02:09
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I went out and bought my first bike this weekend. It's an 81 Honda CX500, and it was in beautiful shape and ran flawlessly. My buddy drove it about fifteen miles without trouble. My girlfriend and I don't have a garage at our apartment, but her dad's house is only about a mile away and he does have a garage that is only housing one car. So my friend parked it in there, and her step-mom was out of town so I didn't think it would be a big deal as I was planning to go back the next morning to play around with it. We got a call the next morning asking me to move it since it was "too close to the center line" even though there was plenty of room for her to park her little hybrid SUV. I went and moved it and then tried to start it. It wouldn't start. I knew the gas tank was just about empty so I went and got a gallon and put it in. Still won't start. Then we're having dinner tonight with the family and my girlfriend's step-mom mentions that they tried to move it and it fell over. Awesome. Oh, and by "they" I mean my girlfriend's 100 pound 16 year old step-sister tried to move it while her mom sat in the car. Now you would assume that this is something they would have shared when they asked me to come over and move it yesterday afternoon and I did and they thanked me. Not a mention that it fell over. So after learning that tonight I went over to look it over, and I can see that the tank cover has cracks in it that certainly were not there when I picked it up on Saturday. Also it won't start. Where do I even begin to look for problems? Could something have leaked out? Would a stationary fall cause internal damage? I'm so loving pissed right now. I know that there's a chance it was possibly an issue that existed before I even got the bike, but it ran perfectly fine before she dropped it and now it doesn't and I don't know who has the lack of common sense to ask a tiny teenage girl who has never touched a motorcycle to try to move a 500 pound bike. What's the best place to start and what's a good all-purpose tool set I can buy for current/future work? I know someone posted a $100 Crafstman set that had just about everything you need but I can't remember what thread it was in to go find it. mr. mephistopheles fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Mar 22, 2011 |
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Mar 22, 2011 04:05
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The bike probably won't start because when it fell over, gas flooded the engine. Just crank it with the throttle wide open for a few seconds and then crank it with no throttle and it should start up. It just falling on its side wouldn't really cause any internal damage to it, typically stuff like levers and signals get damaged when a bike tips over. For tools, get a metric socket set, large and small phillips and flathead screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, metric allen wrenches, metric open-ended wrenches, a large adjustable wrench (or a large socket that fits your axle nuts and front sprocket bolt), and a MANUAL IMPACT DRIVER. You'll thank me when you strip the gently caress out of a screw.
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Mar 22, 2011 04:12
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:The bike probably won't start because when it fell over, gas flooded the engine. Just crank it with the throttle wide open for a few seconds and then crank it with no throttle and it should start up. It just falling on its side wouldn't really cause any internal damage to it, typically stuff like levers and signals get damaged when a bike tips over. That's a loving relief. Thanks a lot! Also for the tool advice.
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Mar 22, 2011 04:17
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Newt Gingrich posted:I live in chicago so I would like to ride in the summer time If it makes you feel better there is no good time to buy (in Chicago at least). I've been watching CL since spring of last year and the bike market is hosed up. No one budged over winter, because, if they held out for now, they could tack on another $300-$1000. Also, there just aren't many used sub 600cc bikes here, because "you'll outgrow it too quickly; so get GIXXXER, brah". If you can; expand your search to Rockford, downstate, Indiana or Wisconsin and try looking for EX500's/GS500's too. Commodore 64 fucked around with this message at 12:51 on Mar 22, 2011 |
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Mar 22, 2011 04:23
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Anyone have any suggestions on ways to make a modern (2001) Honda CB250 Nighthawk look a little more old-school, vaguely cafe-ish? I kind of want to get bar-ends, since just getting those huge dog-ear mirrors off would look nice. I'd rather not compromise safety just for the sake of looks, so planning to shop around for bar-end mirrors that still give a decent field of view. Adding gaiters would be cool, and slightly make up for how skinny the front end looks. The main "too modern" issue I have with the Nighthawk is that the seat looks too swoopy. Is there any way to get a flatter seat, more the bench-like seats of late-70s/early-80s UJMs? Similar question for replacing the swoopy plastic panels. Getting it to look more like these (not sold in the US) Honda variants would be cool:  
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Mar 22, 2011 06:15
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Phat_Albert posted:Also, sintered, organic, carbon compound, what does everyone recommend? I'm thinking organic because I hear sintered tears up your rotors, is there any truth to that? Organic in the rear is good because its less grippy so you're less likely to lock up the rear wheel. I've always ran sintered pads and have never had any issues with my rotors or the like.
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Mar 22, 2011 14:11
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Gnaghi posted:Birds would be no problem, even crazy birds like falcons and eagles wouldn't be able to get at my eyes or face and even if my legs or arms got a little sliced up I'd smack it down as it swooped in. Yes Falcons fly really really fast, but superspeed divebombs are geared towards small animals like rabbits. When they attack humans they tend to slow down and hover while using their claws. When they do divebomb it's going to be at the head/helmet.
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Mar 22, 2011 14:53
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Anyone have any suggestions on ways to make a modern (2001) Honda CB250 Nighthawk look a little more old-school, vaguely cafe-ish? There's a bunch of stuff you could do. Put lower handlebars, clubman handlebars, or clip-ons attached to the fork tubes (depending on how aggressively you want to go). Lower the headlight appropriately for the lower bars/clip-ons. Attach bar-ends to whatever you end up buying. The seat will be trickier. The best way would be to lose the current seat and side covers/rear cowl and get a new flat seat pan fabricated which would fit on your rear subframe, and attach a seat to that. If you google cafe racer, you'll find that a popular style is a solo flat seat with a hump-style cowl behind the rider. You could also see if you could fit an older CB tank on your bike - I'm sure somebody with your bike has attempted it before. Lastly, if you're running low bars/clip-ons, you'll want to put on some rearset pegs so that the riding posture isn't something akin to sitting in a barrel.
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Mar 22, 2011 15:32
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Brembo and Lucas where the test winners, which really wasn't a surprise, but the surprise was that they weren't any more expensive than the rest. Does brembo even make pads for other calipers? I figured they just made them for their own brakes.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:05
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Anyone have any suggestions on ways to make a modern (2001) Honda CB250 Nighthawk look a little more old-school, vaguely cafe-ish? Unless you do something about the bodywork it's going to look really strange. The bodywork gives the bike a fairly modern look. Make the seat/plastics look more old school first.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:36
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Z3n posted:I'd go with a Scotts rotary type damper if you're going to go with a steering damper. The liner type are ok, but they can only respond one way to input, as they don't have multiple damping circuits. You can only increase the resistance at the bars which only gives you a gain in stability at the cost of seriously slowing down your steering. Thanks. I only see a side mounted linear Ohlins listed for my S2R, I'll look for a Scotts later. If I can't find one for a decent price I might still jump on that Bitubo, it's like half off and brand new.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:51
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A Duck! posted:Thanks. I only see a side mounted linear Ohlins listed for my S2R, I'll look for a Scotts later. If I can't find one for a decent price I might still jump on that Bitubo, it's like half off and brand new. Doesn't look like scotts makes a damper for the S2R, should have checked that. If the bike steers really slow after you get the damper, dial the resistance on it back, I've seen so many people complaining about poor handling after installing dampers because they have the resistance cranked up. None of my dampers have ever been over the lowest setting once suspension is set up correctly.
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Mar 22, 2011 17:30
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n8r posted:Unless you do something about the bodywork it's going to look really strange. The bodywork gives the bike a fairly modern look. Make the seat/plastics look more old school first. Yeah, that struck me. Is there a particular specialised/recommended forum I should take such questions to. A cafe-racer forum, or a specific Honda forum? Although I do reckon I could at least add bar-ends without the bike looking too strange. I take it I just Google up the Honda handlebar diametre and find a brand of mirrors that fits that size? quote:Lastly, if you're running low bars/clip-ons, you'll want to put on some rearset pegs so that the riding posture isn't something akin to sitting in a barrel. Yeah, I'm looking to maintain at least somewhat of a more upright style, so not quite going for as racer-y as a cafe bike, but vaguely in that direction. So I might try bars that are slightly lower and feel those out.
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Mar 23, 2011 00:24
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