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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Yeah, that struck me. Is there a particular specialised/recommended forum I should take such questions to. A cafe-racer forum, or a specific Honda forum?
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Mar 23, 2011 00:36
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What do you guys use to clean your rear sets and metal parts? I'm in coastal CA and the bike I picked up needs a good cleaning. It was really well taken care of but most of the fasteners and such have some corrosion. No rust, just needs to strip off the built up salt and scale. I'm thinking about just picking up a bunch of metric SS fasteners and changing them out.
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Mar 23, 2011 17:18
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I bought a can of S100 and used it on both of my bikes along with some WD-40 for the extra grimy stuff. It works really well just spraying it on and washing it off, probably twice as good if you have a powerwasher.
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Mar 23, 2011 17:30
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I use Simple Green for anything really grimey. It can be had for $5 at your local bicycle shop, and a can of it lasts a hell of a long time.
AncientTV fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Mar 23, 2011 |
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Mar 23, 2011 18:12
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Sometimes my bike dies when I stop. Not every time, but it seems if I pull in the clutch and hold it while I fully brake (as opposed to downshifting and engine braking) it will occasionally die. I've turned the idle up a little bit but it still seems to happen. I could perhaps turn it up a little more but I was wondering if anyone knows what this might be? It's a 1971 Honda CL450.
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Mar 23, 2011 18:23
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Air cooled engines can drop enough temperature when slowing from high speed without any RPM that they can die.
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Mar 23, 2011 18:40
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That makes sense, this thing has a huge aluminum head on it that changes temp pretty quickly.
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Mar 23, 2011 19:05
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What does the throttle position sensor do on my DRZ? It seems like it would have something to do with the ignition but does anybody know what specifically?
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Mar 23, 2011 21:40
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henne posted:What does the throttle position sensor do on my DRZ? It seems like it would have something to do with the ignition but does anybody know what specifically? It's part of the equation on how much fuel to squirt in. Throttle position + rpm + airmass/oxygen sensor = a well metered splash of fuel. Probably affects ignition as well. edit: gently caress, isn't the DRZ carbed? Then the TPS is for metering out exacted amounts of egg to my face.
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Mar 23, 2011 21:57
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Ola posted:It's part of the equation on how much fuel to squirt in. Throttle position + rpm + airmass/oxygen sensor = a well metered splash of fuel. Probably affects ignition as well. There are carbs that have TPSs built into them. I believe it changes ignition timing.
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Mar 23, 2011 22:39
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Ola posted:It's part of the equation on how much fuel to squirt in. Throttle position + rpm + airmass/oxygen sensor = a well metered splash of fuel. Probably affects ignition as well. The DRZ is indeed carberated. I've never been sure what the TPS does on those, because they're always disconnected due to carb swaps on my bike. I think they change the ignition timing at low RPM and throttle openings for emissions reasons. They don't have a measured effect at high RPM according to the dyno graphs I've seen.
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Mar 23, 2011 22:39
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The TPS on my carbed KTM 625 affects ignition timing but most people just disconnect it. Mine has been disconnected since I bought it so I'm not sure how it reacts differently with or without it. People disconnect it claiming that they get smoother and more instantaneous throttle response.
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Mar 23, 2011 22:52
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If that's the case I might try disconnecting it to see how it feels.
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Mar 24, 2011 02:11
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What kind of money can you get out of a new-ish supersport parting it out if you've got time (ie. not in a rush selling for bottom dollar)? Only damage on the whole bike is a few chips on the right fairing from a 'drop' with 20mi on it, you can't see them unless you're looking for them. I dropped it dicking around with the suspension drunk at 2am in the backyard  .I bought this bike a little over a year ago and I can afford it, but I'm tired of paying the payment and $100/mo insurance. Rather pay the loan off and buy a SV650 w/ gsxr front end and a nice rear shock in cash. I'm in school full time and my... lack of financial care lately is slowly catching up. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 25, 2011 01:18
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What's the bike?
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Mar 25, 2011 01:30
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09 ZX6R
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Mar 25, 2011 01:33
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Your ZX6R? Figure around 6-8k, depending on how long you hold out on certain parts. Expect for it to take 6 months+ to get everything gone and you'll probably end up dumping some parts in the long run. I'm looking at around 6k for my racebike, but I have a number of high value aftermarket items that really help that out.
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Mar 25, 2011 01:36
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If I could get close to 8k then I'm completely down for doing it. I could pay off the loan and buy a modded SV for that kind of money. Hmm, guess it's time to start making an Excel price list. I'm moving back to Tempe, Az in a couple months because it's cheaper than up here in Flagstaff, Az. Can't stand riding in full gear when it's 110* out anyway, gently caress it. Last time I went without a bike for 6mo I went a little crazy though. 
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Mar 25, 2011 01:37
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BlackMK4 posted:If I could get close to 8k then I'm completely down for doing it. I could pay off the loan and buy a modded SV for that kind of money. Hmm, guess it's time to start making an Excel price list. If you'd like, drop me a line when you have the excel spreadsheet made and I'll take a quick look. 
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Mar 25, 2011 01:43
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If I were to buy a Ninja 250 Gen 1, what kind of insurance should I carry for it? Do I need collision/comprehensive? What are everyone's medical coverage on your policies? Is it like a car where after a certain point it's not worth carrying full coverage anymore and if so when is that point?
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Mar 25, 2011 01:57
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Two quick visor questions for you guys. I bought a scooter not too long ago that came with a full faced helmet . It didn't come with a visor and I'd like to fix that. Are visors universal or will I have to buy one specific to my helmet? It is a Medium Gmax helmet. I'm not seeing any other numbers besides DOT and Snell codes. Also, do you guys have any special visors for when it is bright out for for night riding?
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Mar 25, 2011 02:25
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odinson posted:Two quick visor questions for you guys. Manufacturers typically have their own visor mounting system, so if you can't find a Gmax visor, then you're probably SOL. As for the night/day differences, having 1 clear visor for nighttime and one tinted one for the day is sufficient. The tinted isn't even a necessity, it's just a lot easier on the eyes. edit: Here ya go. Make sure you order visors for the correct model of Gmax. I've made the mistake of not double checking that before 
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Mar 25, 2011 02:29
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Thanks man. Now the war between my mouth/eyes and the fireflies can finally come to an end.
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Mar 25, 2011 04:01
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A Duck! posted:What do you guys use to clean your rear sets and metal parts? Autosol.
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Mar 25, 2011 12:00
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Saga posted:Autosol. That stuff sounds awesome. I think I'll pick some up this weekend.
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Mar 25, 2011 18:26
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The bolts keep seizing and snapping while I'm trying to put the engine's cylinder head on (only one cyl.). What's my best course of action? Anti-seize? Shorter bolts? Witchery?
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Mar 26, 2011 08:29
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Jr. posted:The bolts keep seizing and snapping while I'm trying to put the engine's cylinder head on (only one cyl.). What's my best course of action? Anti-seize? Shorter bolts? Witchery? First thing I'd do is carefully clean up all the threads (on the bolts and in the block) with a tap and die set.
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Mar 26, 2011 10:15
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Question about gearing. I'm thinking about replacing my chain (PO lived a block from the beach, and while he kept it properly lubed and took really good care of the bike it just looks gnarly), and thinking about changing the teeth on the sprockets at the same time. I'm thinking -1 at least to try to fix some of the grabby-ness of my Monster in traffic. A buddy of mine is also suggesting +2 on the rear. I don't do a lot of freeway riding now, just transit to and from fun roads and home mostly, or four miles to home when the PCH is busy after work. I'm taking a cross country trip this summer so I think I'll probably need to keep 6th decent so I don't run at high revs for 5k miles/burn excess fuel. So any advice for -1, +2?
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Mar 28, 2011 16:35
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A Duck! posted:Question about gearing. The rear sprocket's always easy to do (and un-do), as you just have to drop the rear wheel. Not sure how easy the front is to get out on a Monster. A larger rear also gives you more chain wrap, though I'm sure a tooth down on the front wouldn't really matter. 2 teeth up in the back will lower the final drive gearing to give you a little more thrust in exchange for a slight reduction in top speed, but it's not going to make a massive difference to your cruising RPM on the highway. Since you don't really ride on freeways, the answer is likely to be that you want to go a tooth down at the front or (if it were me) 2-4 teeth up on the back. But you have to look at how your particular model was geared and decide which way/how far you want to go.
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Mar 28, 2011 16:52
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The S2R 1000 was 15T, 42T stock. I was thinking about 14T, 44T. The front sprocket is far easier to change than the rear, it's just two or three bolts on the sprocket cover then the sprocket is in the open. I'm never at the extreme top end of things, I just want it a little smoother in traffic.
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Mar 28, 2011 17:08
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I carry a tire plug kit and a small electric air pump in a bag when I go on a long distance trip. In the name of saving space, I'd like to switch the pump to CO2 cylinders like i use on my mountain bikes. Any idea how many cylinders I'll need to carry? I'm guessing one isn't enough to fill a tire. Also, anyone have experience with this Turn & Go thing as an emergency patch kind of deal? http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/cargol-turn-go/
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Mar 28, 2011 17:14
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A Duck! posted:The S2R 1000 was 15T, 42T stock. I was thinking about 14T, 44T. Are you talking about surging when you crack open the throttle? I'm pretty sure making the gearing shorter is only going to increase that sensation. You are also talking about a significant change to the gear going -1/+2. I would think making the gearing taller is a better recipe for what you are looking for. In general rear sprockets are much easier to change. Sometimes front sprockets require an impact drive and some serious force to loosen them. The issue that you are looking to resolve is generally better addressed by messing with the fueling. If this is a common complaint with the s2r I'm sure there are all sorts of fixes out there for it. chryst: I just carry a small hand pump, you can get a bike tire up to pressure no problem, it just takes a while. They're simple/small/packable.
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Mar 28, 2011 17:46
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chryst posted:I carry a tire plug kit and a small electric air pump in a bag when I go on a long distance trip. In the name of saving space, I'd like to switch the pump to CO2 cylinders like i use on my mountain bikes. That turn and go thing looks really awesome. However, I'd caution that while it's probably going to patch the majority of leaks, I have once bailed out a guy who had run over a razor or blade of some sort and had a 1 inch long slash in his tire, and it took 3 of the rubber string type patches to fill it. He made it home but had to stop. I'd probably carry both just because it's so small there's no reason not to.
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Mar 28, 2011 17:52
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Carry the pump. The cylinders are a one shot deal, and if you plug the tire, use the cylinders, and then find out it's still leaking and has to be replugged, you'll have no way to refill the tire. Being stuck 50 miles from anywhere because you didn't have your compressor would really suck. For the record, I carry the Stop and Go kit, a small compressor, and the string type tire plugs
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Mar 28, 2011 20:20
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n8r posted:The issue that you are looking to resolve is generally better addressed by messing with the fueling. If this is a common complaint with the s2r I'm sure there are all sorts of fixes out there for it. Yeah it's a common thing with Monsters I guess. The most common suggestion is going down a tooth on the front and changing to a more mild cam in the throttle. Basically I want to be able to use more of the low rpm range when I'm in the city. I'll happily sacrifice some top end as I'm very very rarely at WOT. quote:chryst: My Monster seat has a spot for the tool kit, and I was able to fit in one of those tire repair kits with the CO2 cartridges, some wire and electrical tape wrapped around a pencil, and a spare spark plug no problem.
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Mar 28, 2011 21:25
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Shortening the gearing is only going to increase any surging you have when opening the throttle. I could see a different throttle tube helping quite a bit. The first thing you want to do is make sure you have no slack in your throttle cable. Slack in the cable can make that initial opening more harsh.
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Mar 28, 2011 22:53
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What is a good site to buy cables from? Any sites/brands to avoid? Decompression lever and throttle cables for my '92 DR350, specifically.
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Mar 28, 2011 23:08
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Anyone know of a good bike shop in the Chicagoland area? Just need some new tires mounted/balanced and a tune up.
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Mar 29, 2011 05:32
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n8r posted:Shortening the gearing is only going to increase any surging you have when opening the throttle. I could see a different throttle tube helping quite a bit. The first thing you want to do is make sure you have no slack in your throttle cable. Slack in the cable can make that initial opening more harsh. It depends on what your power curve is like, my 690 is (relatively) mild up until about 4krpm. As a result by bike surges a lot around 20mph in first, and second only really kicks in at 22mph, unfortunately the traffic in my area moves, for a lot of the time at pretty much 21mph. I'm considering shortening the gearing slightly to shift the surging down so that second gear is more usable in traffic.
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Mar 29, 2011 09:42
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A Duck! posted:The S2R 1000 was 15T, 42T stock. I was thinking about 14T, 44T. Ah, ok. Just go one tooth down on the front. More wheelies ahoy! If the bike surges on a steady throttle, it's a jetting issue. Surely a dynojet kit (or PCIII/V, but I thought the S2R was carby) would be the cure? e: As far as what the gearing change will do, IMO dropping 1 on the front or going 2 or 3 up on the back isn't a massive gearing change. It's noticeable and will give you a bit more flexibility, but it's not like you're going to be revving out at 100. You just have to do the math to see it's not a huge change in the final drive ratio. 44/14 = 3.14; 44/13 = 3.38. I haven't done the math for this bit, but that's what, 6% or something? That would be maybe 5mph off top speed if the S2R can pull redline in top. If they've gone the overdrive route and geared it for 180mph or something crazy in top, you won't even lose that. Saga fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Mar 29, 2011 |
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Mar 29, 2011 09:47
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