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weld a nut to the broken bolt, and use that to get it out. On the exhaust gaskets I like to use a dentists pick on them.
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Apr 2, 2011 05:25
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obso posted:Need some carb tuning/diagnostic advice. What have you done to check for air leaks? Can you get it to act up in first gear at high RPM, or only at higher speeds? Also, I dont know what carb is on that bike, but jumping from a 130 main to 170 sounds like way too much. You could be jumping from a lean condition into a way to rich condition in one go.
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Apr 2, 2011 06:00
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There's only has one vacuum line that is about 4" long. It and its connection to the carb boot are secure. I didn't just jump from a 130 to a 170, I started off in increments of 5 but then 10 when it wasn't turning the plug black. And yes it is noticeable in lower gears as an artificial rev limiter, but you can shift and it pulls hard again until it reaches that specific rpm (doesn't have a tach).
obso fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Apr 2, 2011 |
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Apr 2, 2011 06:34
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Bugdrvr posted:I think it should be fine. I read somewhere that the paraffin in oil used to separate out when left in freezing temps but with newer oil, especially a synthetic, there shouldn't be any in there to separate. Considering that oil usually sits in below freezing temps in the oil pan with no ill effects, I can't see how storing it in the can under the same conditions would pose any problem. I've always kept a 1L can of oil in the trunk of my cars and never had any problems.
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Apr 2, 2011 18:06
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obso, that sounds somewhat like a bike a friend of mine inherited, especially with the backfiring at high RPM, which was later diagnosed as a failing CDI box.
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Apr 2, 2011 18:21
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So whats the best way to shorten a kickstand? Right now I'm thinking sawzall. Kickstand on the CRF is too long with the SM suspension. Thing sits almost vertical and wants to fall over.
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Apr 2, 2011 18:59
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If you need it just a little shorter heat it up with a torch and bend it outwards slightly. Keeps from having to deal with welding it if you cut it.
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Apr 2, 2011 19:04
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This may seem like a dumb question, but would there be any reason not to use bed liner on a UJM swing arm? The thing was covered in surface rust, cleaning it up has basically left it bare. Spray on bed liner is pretty easy to apply without messing it up.
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Apr 2, 2011 21:22
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PestiferousTrollop posted:This may seem like a dumb question, but would there be any reason not to use bed liner on a UJM swing arm? It will resist rock chipping better than paint but it has a tendency to lift and trap moisture underneath and cause rust that you can't see. As long as you are meticulous with your prep it shouldn't be a problem tho.
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Apr 2, 2011 22:08
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So, insurance totaled out my ninja 250. A lady hit me from behind, mostly fairing damage, but some front brake grinding and warp. If they offer me the option to buy it back, should I take it (assuming 10-30% of the value here)? I can have a shop appraise the damage...but not sure how involved getting a salvage title back to rebuilt is. Or if I can haggle them to keep a clear title. Anyone have any experience? Google has lots of opinions, but mostly on baaaadly damaged bikes.
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Apr 2, 2011 22:17
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Be sure the frame and front end are straight - then go for it if the price is next to nothing.
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Apr 2, 2011 23:15
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YMMV when re-titling a totaled bike as salvage. In Washington state it's very easy, you can find out by calling your local DMV/Licensing/etc/
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Apr 3, 2011 00:11
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As per last page, I'm getting my bike out of winter storage. I charged the battery for about 3 hours, half the full charge time of 6 hours. I added gas and stuck the battery in and it tried to start it, but it didn't go. The battery sounded sufficiently charged, but it didn't seem to be turning over. Is it possible the battery sounded good, but didn't have enough charge to get it turned over, or is there another likely culprit?
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Apr 3, 2011 00:24
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n8r posted:YMMV when re-titling a totaled bike as salvage. In Washington state it's very easy, you can find out by calling your local DMV/Licensing/etc/ I've done it with cars - it's very easy in Arizona too. 1. Vehicle gets crashed 2. Insurance company estimates damage 3. Insurance company declares the car not worth fixing, you negotiate the insurance payout and buyback price with the adjuster 4. Take title to DMV and have it branded salvaged, you have to surrender the plates on the spot - if you don't have them with you then you are informed that it's illegal to drive a salvage vehicle on the street ( I drove mine like this anyway since I did everything in three days and my 'commute' at the time was half a mile to work) 5. Take salvage title to insurance company, insurance cuts you a check upon verification of salvage designation 6. Repair vehicle or make sure it meets street legality laws 7. Take salvage title and car to DMV for inspection (they just check for the basic road legal stuff) 8. Upon successful inspection the title is changed to rebuilt 9. You can now register the car BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Apr 3, 2011 |
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Apr 3, 2011 00:40
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obso posted:Need some carb tuning/diagnostic advice. Found the culprit. During extended WOT it doesn't produce enough vacuum to keep fuel flowing threw the petcock. If you flip it over to prime the problem completely goes away. Anyway around this? other than leaving it on prime or changing it to a non-vacuum type petcock.
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Apr 3, 2011 00:51
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I need to move a motorcycle 300 miles from Ohio to Virginia. The beater truck I have isn't up to the task of a 600 mile drive and the BMW with a tow-hitch  isn't road legal. Cost-wise, Uhaul would be ~400 dollars and car rental trucks would be about the same due to leaving their accepted states for unlimited miles, and neither of those are considering gas. I know some good 'ol boys that would probably lend a truck or hitched vehicle, but should I go with a long bed truck and place it in the back, use a generic open trailer, or rent a proper motorcycle trailer? I'm a bit worried about using a trailer as the roads coming back go up to 70 miles an hour and can be fairly rough.
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Apr 3, 2011 01:02
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Why not ride it if it's only 300 miles? But tied down in the back of a truck is fine, just ratchet strap it down and go. It's way easier than having to deal with pulling a trailer.
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Apr 3, 2011 01:12
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The Wonder Weapon posted:As per last page, I'm getting my bike out of winter storage. I charged the battery for about 3 hours, half the full charge time of 6 hours. I added gas and stuck the battery in and it tried to start it, but it didn't go. The battery sounded sufficiently charged, but it didn't seem to be turning over. Is it possible the battery sounded good, but didn't have enough charge to get it turned over, or is there another likely culprit? What do you mean by "the battery sounded sufficiently charged"? What sound were you hearing?
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Apr 3, 2011 01:14
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obso posted:Why not ride it if it's only 300 miles? I still don't have my proper license  and they actually have cops in civilized areas.
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Apr 3, 2011 01:17
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Clank posted:What do you mean by "the battery sounded sufficiently charged"? What sound were you hearing? I guess the best way to describe it is that the battery sounded normal, the engine just didnt turn over.
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Apr 3, 2011 01:46
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You measure voltage on a battery, it shouldn't make any sounds. How are you determining your battery is charged? edit: oh, did you mean the motor cranked over but never actually started?
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Apr 3, 2011 01:55
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obso posted:Found the culprit. During extended WOT it doesn't produce enough vacuum to keep fuel flowing threw the petcock. If you flip it over to prime the problem completely goes away. Anyway around this? other than leaving it on prime or changing it to a non-vacuum type petcock. Pull the petcock, make sure all the vacuum lines are good (not cracked/kinked/stretched/etc etc.), then go over the petcock itself and rebuild/replace if necessary.
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Apr 3, 2011 01:58
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obso posted:You measure voltage on a battery, it shouldn't make any sounds. How are you determining your battery is charged? Yea, that's what I mean. Sorry for the rather vague terms. I hold down the starter button and it starts trying to start - 'neeneeneenee' - but never actually goes vroom. Does that make sense?
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Apr 3, 2011 05:41
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Yeah that's better. (not being pedantic, I was confused too). Since it's been setting a while it would probably be a good idea to drain the carb bowls and let some new fuel get in there. Also a little spurt of ether might help wake it up and get the old stuff burned out.
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Apr 3, 2011 06:12
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obso posted:It will resist rock chipping better than paint but it has a tendency to lift and trap moisture underneath and cause rust that you can't see. As long as you are meticulous with your prep it shouldn't be a problem tho. The shop near my work has a CRF450X with the swingarm covered in bed liner. It's quite cool looking actually and tough as all buggery, but I'd also worry about moisture getting under it. Surely powder coating isn't particularly expensive (once the arm's off the bike)?
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Apr 3, 2011 07:37
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I just did my first two days of riding at Q-Ride (my state's mandatory MSF course before you get your license), and got my license, but counterbalancing in low speeds is a bitch for me, and i was running wide in turns, how can I solve this? My brain just doesn't believe in the bike when it comes to counterbalancing, and I think it will drop every time I try...any way to beat this?
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Apr 3, 2011 08:17
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Are you talking about countersteering or actually counter-leaning? At low speeds countersteering won't work. If you're worried about counterleaning then drag the clutch when you do it and don't be afraid to get your rear end all the way to the opposite side of the seat that you're turning. For me I usually put my knee out in the direction of the turn to let the bike lean down a little more in that direction while I slide to the side of the seat and turn. I also drag the rear brake sometimes as I find it helps make the rear suspension a little more solid and it can help. Don't do that though if you aren't comfortable with the bike or you're liable to lock up the wheel and drop it.
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Apr 3, 2011 08:52
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obso posted:Yeah that's better. (not being pedantic, I was confused too). Well I tried to drain the carb bowls. I pulled off the the fairings and took a look,then realized I can't find the screws needed to drain them. Hrmph. I have a manual for the bike (98 cbr600) but it's 2 hours away. I'm not sure what else to do, aside from somehow drag it to a shop tomorrow and call in sick. Anyone near Syracuse, NY? lol
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Apr 3, 2011 16:46
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Well I tried to drain the carb bowls. I pulled off the the fairings and took a look,then realized I can't find the screws needed to drain them. Hrmph. I have a manual for the bike (98 cbr600) but it's 2 hours away. I'm not sure what else to do, aside from somehow drag it to a shop tomorrow and call in sick. http://hawkworks.net/F3-fiche/carburetor_components.html What's the thing on the bottom right of the diagram? If you can't find a drain, pull the bank of carbs and carefully remove the float bowl (the big housing on the bottom of each carb).
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Apr 3, 2011 18:04
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While changing the plugs on my SV650 I removed the radiator thermo switch to angle the rad forward and get at the front plug. Changed the plug no problem, but when I went to screw the switch back in I totally hosed it up and screwed it in on an angle. Realizing my mistake I backed it off and tried to correct but each attempt made it worse and the aluminum threads quickly got stripped. I managed to finally get it to seat correctly and wrapped the poo poo out of it with teflon tape but the damage was done and now there's a steady dripping leak after I ride for a while and the rad gets up to pressure. In hindsight I probably didn't need to take the switch out but that's beside the point. My question is are there any good products or tools to rethread a screw cap? I was going to buy a new switch and then try to re-tap the threads on the rad, but my buddy mentioned that products exist that let you put a new "surface" on the inside thread that you can then cut into. Anyone have experience with this? And yes I'm an idiot for shredding it in the first place, we all have our fuckups.
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Apr 3, 2011 23:19
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http://www.emhart.com/brands/heli-coil
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Apr 3, 2011 23:38
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I ended up going outside and just laying on the starter with 0 choke and I got it up and running. Thanks for all the help guys; much appreciated!
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Apr 3, 2011 23:45
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Question - would this knackered cam lobe (on my 89 GSXR 750) make my engine sound like it has rod knock? I get a very loud tapping sound from the engine, and if I used a stethoscope on header #3 (exactly where this exhaust cam lobe is) I hear it plain as day.
MrZig fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 06:22
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Under what threshold would you expect the starter not to even attempt to start the bike? I've had my bike sitting with the lights on but without the engine running a bit recently (probably 10 minutes total at the absolute most) while working on an LED tail light conversion for it. I had it on the trickle charger a couple of weeks ago while working on it though, and I'm pretty sure when I stopped work on it then it was fully charged. Today I went to start it to check something and when I thumb the starter the headlight goes out but nothing else happens. I triple checked that it was in neutral and that the kill switch was set to run, but there is not a peep from the starter. The battery voltage was low 12s when I checked it, and I have it on the trickle charger again now. Last attempt to start was at 13.00V and nothing happened then either. I have done nothing to the bike's electrics other than cut off one of my rear indicators, and I can't think of any reason why that would be causing it, as if that were the case, the bike wouldn't start with a blown globe. Just to be sure, I touched the two wires together and tried again but still nothing.
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Apr 4, 2011 08:19
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Check the fuses and starter relay. Can you bump start it?
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Apr 4, 2011 08:24
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Check the fuses and starter relay. Can you bump start it? Not sure yet, wasn't looking forward to having to get it back up the driveway if it didn't start. Will check that tomorrow though. I can't say I heard a click coming from the starter relay now that I think of it. Nevermind, I tried it again after the charger said the battery was fully charged and it fired up, despite the voltage reading back down in the 12s once the charger was removed - I guess the cranking amps available increase as the charge does? One more question arising from this: I put the meter on the battery while the bike was running, and at idle it charges at about 14.7V, and decreases as throttle is applied. I didn't rev it much to see what it does when the bike is well up in to its operating rev range, but does that sound normal so far? Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 08:35
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Anyone have a recommendation for a cigarette lighter adapter? I'm installing a mount for my phone that I will use as a GPS, but it will kill the battery so I would like to be able to plug it in during the ride.
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Apr 4, 2011 11:39
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"[panic posted:"] A good quality weatherproof toggle switch could just be put in line with the socket, would save wear on the socket and a dangling connector when you don't want to charge? Marine suppliers usually stock all sorts of switches that are perfect for a bike. EDIT: thinking about it, marine suppliers also stock some weatherproof 12v sockets that would also be suited to a bike. A search such as this turns up plenty of good options. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 12:15
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MrZig posted:Question - would this knackered cam lobe (on my 89 GSXR 750) make my engine sound like it has rod knock? I get a very loud tapping sound from the engine, and if I used a stethoscope on header #3 (exactly where this exhaust cam lobe is) I hear it plain as day. "[panic posted:"] I used a car lighter socket from harbor freight recently and spliced it into the accessory power line on my old bike to run a car-garmin off of. Fairly easy, works good. Powerlet makes a lot of fancier (waterproof?) stuff you can use too. http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-product/power-cables/PWRCBL
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Apr 4, 2011 14:13
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| # ? May 16, 2024 11:54 |
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MrZig posted:Question - would this knackered cam lobe (on my 89 GSXR 750) make my engine sound like it has rod knock? I get a very loud tapping sound from the engine, and if I used a stethoscope on header #3 (exactly where this exhaust cam lobe is) I hear it plain as day. A flat spotted lobe will definitely make a clacky noise when it hits the rocker. How did it get so squared off? High mileage or was the valve lash way way off?
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Apr 5, 2011 07:23
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