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Bugdrvr posted:A flat spotted lobe will definitely make a clacky noise when it hits the rocker. How did it get so squared off? High mileage or was the valve lash way way off? I was going to say, that's not a camshaft lobe, that's a valve-hammer.
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Apr 5, 2011 08:30
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Bugdrvr posted:A flat spotted lobe will definitely make a clacky noise when it hits the rocker. How did it get so squared off? High mileage or was the valve lash way way off? What valve lash? When I adjusted the valves, it was tight. As in, there was no clearance period. Should I be replacing the rocker arm too? Edit: Should I be replacing ALL the rocker arms with the ones from the used engine I have? MrZig fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Apr 5, 2011 |
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Apr 5, 2011 16:28
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Here4DaGangBang posted:I tried it again after the charger said the battery was fully charged and it fired up, despite the voltage reading back down in the 12s once the charger was removed - I guess the cranking amps available increase as the charge does? Sounds normal. A charged battery should read ~12.5 after it's been setting. How far does the voltage drop when you are revving it? If it's getting below 13.5 you have a stator/regulator problem, but as long as it stays somewhere between 13.5 and 14.5 threw the rpm range it's fine.
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Apr 5, 2011 17:30
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During my ride down the thruway, the bolt attaching my clutch lever rattled off, and I can't really ride without replacing it. I'm not crazy about spending $10 for it shipped from bikebandit, or waiting for it to get here. This is the part: http://www.bikebandit.com/search-products?q=722496&ch=0&sc=0 It's the Honda bolt, part 722496. Is there a way to find out exactly what it is so that I can just go to Autozone down the street and pick something up?
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Apr 5, 2011 18:24
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It's probably a M8x1.25... not that I can see it on that site but it's worth going to Ace to spend $0.05 on one and test. If not, try a M6x1.0
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Apr 5, 2011 18:33
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It's a shouldered brake pivot bolt. Gonna be difficult to find that. Try your local dealership, they might have it for you. Or you could make a sleeve that'd go around a normal bolt that could thread through.
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Apr 5, 2011 18:47
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Z3n posted:It's a shouldered brake pivot bolt. Gonna be difficult to find that. Try your local dealership, they might have it for you. Or you could make a sleeve that'd go around a normal bolt that could thread through. Bummer. Guess I'm paying $10 for a bolt.
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Apr 5, 2011 19:10
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Z3n posted:It's a shouldered brake pivot bolt. Gonna be difficult to find that. Try your local dealership, they might have it for you. Or you could make a sleeve that'd go around a normal bolt that could thread through. Is that the one that connects the lever to the master cylinder? I lost that in my old F4i, ended up just having to buy a new lever because of other damage. I actually did a trackday with the loving thing missing... no, that wasn't brake fade - it was the lever cracking and flexing. 
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Apr 5, 2011 19:32
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Bummer. Guess I'm paying $10 for a bolt. If it's the bolt I'm thinking of, the exact same thing happened on my Hornet. Honda quality. Apparently the words "loctite" or "lock washer" are not in their vocabulary. I just bought a long bolt and a wingnut from the hardware store across the street to ride home on, and kept it like that for a while. Like Z3n says, the problem is it has a shoulder to fit the inside of the pivot and then a thread on the end for the cap-head nut. So yeah, it's either pay $10 or do it the AI way and buy a lathe to make up a precisely sized collar.
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Apr 5, 2011 19:33
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Saga posted:If it's the bolt I'm thinking of, the exact same thing happened on my Hornet. Honda quality. Apparently the words "loctite" or "lock washer" are not in their vocabulary. If the bolt you're thinking of is the bolt I'm thinking of... doing what you did will crack the lever, sounds like you got lucky. I didn't.  BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Apr 5, 2011 |
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Apr 5, 2011 19:34
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This is obviously not exact, but it's pretty much it:
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Apr 5, 2011 19:55
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Yes, that one. I guess it will eventually damage the lever as a bolt without the right shoulder will rattle around in there, but it should be just fine until a new bolt can be sourced. Also some loctite!
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Apr 5, 2011 20:03
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I failed inspection because I don't have a stupid white light for the license plate. I read the NC DOT manual and must have missed that. ugh really stupid question...I found the 2 wires for my license plate light and they have like a square female connector connected to them, but the lights I was looking at just have 2 wires. I guess this means I need the corresponding male square connector and to wire them in, right? Or do I need to find a license plate light with that connector already? I promise one day I will become a man and learn this stuff haha
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Apr 5, 2011 23:55
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Ribsauce posted:I failed inspection because I don't have a stupid white light for the license plate. I read the NC DOT manual and must have missed that. ugh You could just shove the 2 wire ends into the square female(s) and then heat shrink tube them so they're sealed?
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Apr 6, 2011 00:17
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Buy an LED light strip or a lightbulb or something and mount it real quick above the plate. Attach said lightstrip to a 9v battery before the test and you're done. After the test just take it off, I doubt anyone is gonna give you poo poo over having no light. Keep in mind this is the "not legal but will get you through" answer.
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Apr 6, 2011 00:20
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I'm not sure what you mean? Is this something I could get at Wal Mart? Do you have a picture or anything? That is a great idea.
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Apr 6, 2011 00:53
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JP Money posted:Buy an LED light strip or a lightbulb or something and mount it real quick above the plate. Attach said lightstrip to a 9v battery before the test and you're done. After the test just take it off, I doubt anyone is gonna give you poo poo over having no light. The lights have to go off when the bike is off. Just splice into the rear running light.
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Apr 6, 2011 01:01
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I found the license plate light cables, I just need to get the adapter. I am going to call the shop tomorrow and see if they have it.
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Apr 6, 2011 01:40
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MrZig posted:What valve lash? When I adjusted the valves, it was tight. As in, there was no clearance period. I would at least take a good look at all the rocker arms. And bearing surfaces related to the camshaft, just in case this problem was caused by oil starvation and not just bad rocker clearance. If the pads on the rockers look scored up or not smooth or discolored from overheating, yeah they need replacing. Also pay some attention to the shafts that the rockers pivot on. If the rockers have some play on those shafts (movement other than the normal rocking rotation) you'll need new ones of those too.
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Apr 6, 2011 01:58
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I would at least take a good look at all the rocker arms. And bearing surfaces related to the camshaft, just in case this problem was caused by oil starvation and not just bad rocker clearance. If the pads on the rockers look scored up or not smooth or discolored from overheating, yeah they need replacing. Also pay some attention to the shafts that the rockers pivot on. If the rockers have some play on those shafts (movement other than the normal rocking rotation) you'll need new ones of those too. I havn't taken it apart yet so I'll take a good look. Is the cam & rockers a matched set though? Basically what I'm asking. IE would the valvetrain destroy itself if I simply swapped cams even though the rockers looked fine?
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Apr 6, 2011 05:55
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MrZig posted:I havn't taken it apart yet so I'll take a good look. Is the cam & rockers a matched set though? Basically what I'm asking. IE would the valvetrain destroy itself if I simply swapped cams even though the rockers looked fine? No, they're not like gear sets or anything.
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Apr 6, 2011 13:38
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I hope people can handle some more newbie questions. Took the battery out of the GS500 to charge it since I don't have an outlet in the garage. Got it charged up at home no problem, but now when I hit the ignition on the bike, it immediately kills everything (instruments, neutral, oil- and headlight). Before charging the battery, it would make some feeble attempts to turn over the engine, but now nothing happens, which leads me to believe that I installed it wrong. But why would there be light in the instruments and headlight before hitting the ignition if I hosed it up?
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Apr 6, 2011 16:16
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Icept posted:I hope people can handle some more newbie questions. You can't have installed it wrongly if you have the positive and negative terminals firmly connected to the correct cables. Most likely and least painful possibility is that your battery is old and hosed. Did you charge it using an appropriate charger and settings? If yes to both, buy a new m/c battery with the same form factor - it doesn't have to be a Yuasa or whatever Suzuki used, anything sealed and the correct designation (YB10L-A2 according to Yuasa, but check your manual) is fine. Fill, seal and charge according to instructions. Install and cross fingers. That will probably fix the problem.
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Apr 6, 2011 16:42
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Thanks, it's pretty recent though. I'll fiddle with it some more and if nothing works, I'll probably just buy a new battery.
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Apr 6, 2011 16:50
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Icept posted:Thanks, it's pretty recent though. I'll fiddle with it some more and if nothing works, I'll probably just buy a new battery. So when you hit the starter what happens? Any noises? Have you checked fuses?
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Apr 6, 2011 17:13
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Was this battery just sitting all winter, not on a tender? If was outside you probably killed it.
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Apr 6, 2011 17:44
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Saga posted:So when you hit the starter what happens? Any noises? Have you checked fuses? Just a click... Haven't checked anything, but I'm going back down now to mess with it. It's been sitting all winter but not outside. As I mentioned, it would feebly try to fire up the engine before I charged it so I wouldn't think it's dead outright but sure it's a possibility. Edit: Yes, it turns out I'm retarded. The fastening nut on the negative terminal had fallen out of the battery compartment and the screw was not properly hooking the connector up to the battery. However, now it will attempt to turn over the engine but it's not happening, leaving me at square one. It sounded like it was close a couple of times though. I tried running it to life but every time I released the clutch in 2nd gear (which those YouTube videos suggested) it immediately ground the bike to a halt. Do I just need to pick up more speed? I don't want to harm the bike more than I've already done 
Icept fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Apr 6, 2011 |
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Apr 6, 2011 17:53
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Icept posted:Edit: Yes, it turns out I'm retarded. The fastening nut on the negative terminal had fallen out of the battery compartment and the screw was not properly hooking the connector up to the battery. However, now it will attempt to turn over the engine but it's not happening, leaving me at square one. It sounded like it was close a couple of times though. I tried running it to life but every time I released the clutch in 2nd gear (which those YouTube videos suggested) it immediately ground the bike to a halt. Do I just need to pick up more speed? I don't want to harm the bike more than I've already done You need about 10mph or so to bump it. Think of it as getting up to around the minimum point you'd shift into 2nd, since you'll be starting off in 2nd directly. You can also try bumping in 1st if you don't have a hill or anything, but some bikes just won't do it.
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Apr 6, 2011 18:40
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We have liftoff! Bump starting not necessary, but apparently the choke needs to be correctly applied at around half, full on or full off wouldn't do it 
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Apr 6, 2011 18:52
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Icept posted:We have liftoff! Bump starting not necessary, but apparently the choke needs to be correctly applied at around half, full on or full off wouldn't do it Odd. No matter how hot it is, I can always start my bike with the choke full on. It'll rev like a mofo by itself until I reign it in, but it always starts.
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Apr 6, 2011 19:38
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I'm trying to get my exhaust completely cleaned up with a finishing wheel, and while I've gotten just about the entire thing cleared of any rust, I can still see tiny bits around welds and a few tight spaces, and I still have some pitting as well. Is there a particularly effective way to get those tiny spaces cleaned up? I'm hoping to paint this thing rather than let it rust again, but I also don't want to paint it if there is anywhere the paints just going to cover up rusting problems. Also, how do you determine what smaller valve shim size you need? I have three valves that are in spec and one that doesn't have enough clearance for a .04mm feeler gauge(smallest blade). Do I just buy a few that are smaller and keep putting them in until I get it into spec? Fluffs McCloud fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Apr 7, 2011 |
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Apr 6, 2011 20:20
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(Bike is a 2004 SV650) I went out to ride this morning and the bike was dead (zero electricals), I tried to bump start it but I was unable to get enough weight on the rear tire to not just have it slide. When i got home, I tried to jump it with my car, although I left the car off. With the car battery hooked up, the lights turn on, and the fuel pump starts. The starter turns the engine over, but it won't start up, even after letting it sit for a couple minutes before trying it. I took the battery to autozone and had it tested, they took it in back and then said it was still good. However, how can it be good if I get no electricals with it, but DO get electricals when I'm hooked up to my car. Any idea on the general area that I should be looking in for a solution? At this point my limited knowledge leads me to believe that it's either a battery issue, loose wire, or defective part. I don't believe the starter is bad because it will turn over, and as far as I know a bad starter wouldn't stop the electronics of the rest of the bike. Help! 
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Apr 7, 2011 00:47
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What's the best way to build a quick connect for a battery tender? I have one with round hoops and it's annoying to have to unscrew the battery screws to attach them.
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Apr 7, 2011 00:48
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bladesamurai posted:(Bike is a 2004 SV650) When was it running last? TLG, your battery tender hookup should have a quick release connector about halfway down it, a rectangular looking thing. You leave the loops around the battery permanently, and install the tender via the hookup.
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Apr 7, 2011 00:55
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Z3n posted:When was it running last? Sadly not, probably because it was not just made for motorcycles. I bought it so I could charge my car on deployments. http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SE-1-12S-Automatic-Onboard-Battery/dp/B0000AXTUY That's the one I have.
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Apr 7, 2011 01:07
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TLG James posted:Sadly not, probably because it was not just made for motorcycles. I bought it so I could charge my car on deployments. You'd want something like this to match it then: http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-94030008-Connector-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B003WDDLTO/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_c You could wire in any quick disconnect fitting, really...I don't know if that one will match up directly with your setup, but it might considering that they're from the same company.
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Apr 7, 2011 01:11
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Z3n posted:When was it running last? Bike was last ridden on sunday, and I had no issues with it. Bike has an almost full tank of gas, too. Didn't notice any issues with the starter or a brighter light at higher rpm.
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Apr 7, 2011 02:49
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I was having trouble figuring out how to move a supersport that I had no intentions of riding (wrecking) 300 miles, and you lot were little help. But after a week of looking around I finally got an answer! Most rental places are really restrictive with what you can do with their vehicles. U-haul/Penske are a little better, but for a 600 mile trip it would be nearly 400$ BEFORE gas costs, and that's simply too much. Car rental places do rent trucks, but if you leave their accepted states (usually those bordering the state of rental), they charge ~0.30$ per mile for each mile over ~150 freebie miles. This came out again to nearly 400 dollars pre-gas. I was about to call in some favors (and owing friends favors loving sucks) when I called Enterprise and inquired about unlimited miles to move a motorcycle. The guy, being an awesome motorcycle rider, informed me that they do offer an unadvertised unlimited miles package at many places, and that he'd give me one even though theirs did not usually. Without that package my total trip would have been upwards of 400 dollars just for the rental, but with it, only $100 dollars including tax and multiple driver costs. So, if you ever need to move a cycle, call the rental places and try to make a deal because their websites are shite.
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Apr 7, 2011 08:24
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bladesamurai posted:Bike was last ridden on sunday, and I had no issues with it. Bike has an almost full tank of gas, too. Didn't notice any issues with the starter or a brighter light at higher rpm. Obligatory dumbass comment suggesting you check the killswitch, because seriously I've forgotten that bastard so many times
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Apr 7, 2011 10:39
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KozmoNaut posted:Obligatory dumbass comment suggesting you check the killswitch, because seriously I've forgotten that bastard so many times Nah, the bike seems completely dead unless I hook it up to my car, the second I hook up my car, the lights turn on, all of the warning lights do their thing, the tach does its sweep, and the fuel pump turns on. Doesn't seem like enough juice to really get the starter going fast enough, it's pretty sluggish. Gonna stop by wal-mart today and check prices on batteries and trickle chargers.
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Apr 7, 2011 12:21
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