|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I'm nitpicking, but that says that any bike with two or less cylinders displacing equal to or less than 750cc would be an excellent beginner's bike. Can you imagine a beginner on a 690 SMC on "Race" fuel map? I could have sworn we had a member on here that could tell us more about what it feels like to ride such a friendly beginner bike a distance of...say...six inches? Oh it went really well. I love checking out the constellations. I really liked 4/20s story he posted about opening it up on his R6 and nearly killing himself. Well told and a great example of why 600s are poo poo starter bikes. Wonderful track bikes, poo poo motorcycles for most anything else.
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 05:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 22:45 |
|
|
Talk him down to a F4i if he is dead set on a 600 as his first bike. Someone told me the second you start thinking "It's just a 600" is about the time you're sliding down the road. It's such a true statement. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Apr 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 05:29
|
|
|
At least get one of the 90s 600 sportbikes CBR F2, F3, FZR600, way more manageable power, better ergonomics. That being said to play devil's advocate I started riding a 636 after about riding a year, maybe it's that year of experience but it wasn't really as intimidating to ride as a lot of people on forums make modern 600cc sportbikes to be. It's still overkill for the street but you can ride it at relatively lowspeeds without any drama, of course once you start using more than 1/4 throttle it's easy to get carried away  Still I would say AT LEAST ride a cheap ninja 250/500, Suzuki GS500 for just a month to get used to modulating brakes, leaning/accelerating through turns, throttle control, etc.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 06:37
|
|
|
My friend just bought an R6 as his first bike. It only has one mirror. He didn't get proper pants or boots. He got a free helmet from a friend ... that doesn't fit properly I spent a long time on Thursday night warning him to get better gear. I just think to myself that at least he is a gymnast, so if he falls or crashes or something, maybe he will be able to handle the impact better.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 06:40
|
|
|
He won't, man. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 06:46
|
|
|
Kommando posted:some bag of mouldy cocks stopped at a green arrow in front of me yesterday and i dropped the ER5 on its left side in surprise bending the left rear shock. The mechanic says they are rare and expensive. Is this bullshit? Is it easy to replace shocks yourself. I imagine it is. On a twinshock, very easy indeed. It has two bolts on it, top and bottom. Remove the bolts and slide shock off mounting posts. Push new shock on. Replace bolts. Done. As far as rare and expensive, no, that's horseshit. Aside from the ones from wrecked bikes, cheap aftermarket ones are easily available, e.g. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ER-5-ER500-A1-A4-97-01-new-rear-shocks-4m09-/280655334404?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item41585c8c04#ht_1072wt_1139 Nothing on ebay Oz that I can see, but I imagine your local pattern parts retailer can supply something similar. You could probably buy some that ARE rare and expensive and double the value of the bike...
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 07:14
|
|
|
Saga posted:On a twinshock, very easy indeed. It has two bolts on it, top and bottom. Remove the bolts and slide shock off mounting posts. Push new shock on. Replace bolts. Done.   I was quoted $400 AU for OEM Shocks today. the local wreckers only have the 300mm shocks not the 330mm i need for my '98 TO EBAY!
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 08:45
|
|
|
-Inu- posted:all 600cc inline four motorcycles have incredibly nonlinear powerbands. What does that mean? That means, the bike produces nearly no power until about 9,000rpm, and then ALL of the power comes at once. There are plenty of ~600cc inline four motorcycles with powerbands that aren't supersport-peaky. Bandit, GSX-F, FZ6, Hornet etc. But other than that, I agree 100%. Starting on a supersport is like doing your first skydive solo with a chute you've sewn and packed yourself. Not gonna end well.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 10:09
|
|
|
A lot of people get into motorcycling simply for cock waving. The idea of starting on a small bike doesn't make sense to them, because if you can't wave your cock with it, what's the point? Sportbike riders are exactly like Harley diehards in this sense. This classic video is a perfect example. Look at the cool guy who got hardcore branded leathers in matching colors and the "extra cock length" silver visor option! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKuW577t8Bg
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 10:54
|
|
|
A good answer to the "...well my friend X started on a litre bike and he's OK" argument; "...and everyone knows someone who has won on a lotto scratch card, it doesn't mean the odds are good". Saying that, I 'started' on a 690 SMC. I say 'started' because I had already taught myself to ride pootling around on a Yamaha DT125 when I lived in Uganda, and I had 10 years of urban cycle-commuting (even some in Kampala) which left me with good ingrained 'defensive' road manners. Even so, going from a 20hp (on a good day) two-stroke to a fuel-injected 650cc 65hp four-stroke bike of exactly the same weight led to a more hairy learning curve than was probably wise. Although, with the throttle map set to 'soft' the 690 is really quite docile... ...relatively.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 10:58
|
|
|
Which brings me to a question - how bad of an idea would it be to buy a 250 2t as a first dirtbike?  Is that a "Yeah, don't do that" idea, or is it "you're going to die" territory?
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 11:03
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Which brings me to a question - how bad of an idea would it be to buy a 250 2t as a first dirtbike? Depends on how hairy the bike is tuned, if it's race tuned with a power curve like the alps, only 30hp but all of them getting delivered between 5000 and 5200? Probably not so easy to learn on. Kommando posted:
There are loads of generic shocks you could fit too, that's what I did on my BSA. You could even upgrade for probably less than the out of production OEMs will cost you. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Apr 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 12:20
|
|
|
I will always advocate starting on the weakest thing you can stand because enjoyment of motorcycling is strongly linked to how competent you are at operating the bike. It's going to be a slow and very un-entertaining process to learn to ride on a bike you are terrified of and can really surprise you in harsh ways. I sometimes wish I had started on a 250 instead.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 12:25
|
|
|
Ola posted:A lot of people get into motorcycling simply for cock waving.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 13:42
|
|
|
Ola posted:A lot of people get into motorcycling simply for cock waving. The idea of starting on a small bike doesn't make sense to them, because if you can't wave your cock with it, what's the point? EDIT - Oh, I misread you. Yes, you are right many new riders who insist on Sport Bikes are like that. Heh. Meh, we're not all like that. Here I am rocking my "Snow Suit" (Field Sheer Jacket and Overpants) I'm about as non-sportbikey/squidly as you can get. I mean, I don't do stoppies or wheelies at all! 
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 15:37
|
|
|
Ola posted:A lot of people get into motorcycling simply for cock waving. The idea of starting on a small bike doesn't make sense to them, because if you can't wave your cock with it, what's the point? Yeah, unfortunately, that's my friend. He just wants a bike so he can "be a badass". My only hope is that he's a university student with a part-time job so he probably won't be able to afford a 2006 or newer R6 any time soon, and may eventually lose interest.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 15:47
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Which brings me to a question - how bad of an idea would it be to buy a 250 2t as a first dirtbike? My first REAL dirtbike was a 2000 CR250 I got last summer. Growing up I put a lot of time in on little 80s and 100s but never had a true race dirtbike. ...250 2t are INSANE. ReelBigLizard has the right idea but the wrong numbers... a 250 2t with a race pipe is putting down close (or over) 40hp to the wheel, and they weigh ~220lbs wet, ready to ride. The powerband is very very peaky. As in it goes from making like 15hp to 40 in 1000rpm or less. They're NUTS. That said, I made it through just fine. If I didn't have a good amount of experience on streetbikes, and some experience on the dirt I probably would not have had as good of luck. I picked up a newer 450 4t late last year and even though it makes more power than the 250 2t it's much easier to ride due to the more linear powerband. Honestly I wish I would have gotten a 250 4t. Plenty of power, teaches you to commit and keep your speed up through corners. Basically, I'd suggest either a 125 2t or 250 4t. GET YOURSELF TO THE DIRT THREAD!!
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 15:58
|
|
|
Didn't someone here own a 440cc 2t or something in that vein? That thing must have been absolutely insane.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 17:22
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:Didn't someone here own a 440cc 2t or something in that vein? That thing must have been absolutely insane. Well, the thing about 2 strokes is they're really tuning dependent. Most of them get tuned for top end power, but you can make torque monster 2 strokes if you want. But yeah, it was probably a monster.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 17:29
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBBoJQehzpA
Arcteryx Anarchist fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Apr 19, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 18:36
|
|
|
Kommando posted:some bag of mouldy cocks stopped at a green arrow in front of me yesterday and i dropped the ER5 on its left side in surprise bending the left rear shock. The mechanic says they are rare and expensive. Is this bullshit? Is it easy to replace shocks yourself. I imagine it is. Stop crashing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 19:40
|
|
|
2 strokes are my favorite in the dirt. The larger bores demand respect. When I was 13, 6'3" and 100 lbs soaking wet, I had a '73 Yamaha mx250. It weighed a ton and pushed crazy hp to the wheel. Every time I took it out the question was "how am I going to injure myself today?" Had it for about a month before I traded down to a Kawasaki ke175.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 20:03
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:Didn't someone here own a 440cc 2t or something in that vein? That thing must have been absolutely insane.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 21:47
|
|
|
Sounds like an awesome way to kill yourself extremely quickly. I pity the guy who ends up buying it from you.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 21:54
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:This seems like a significant fact of motorcycling that deserves emphasis. I think it would even describe the majority of motorcycling. I will say though that it was simultaneously the most fun and terrifying thing ever to ride around open roads without a helmet.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 23:32
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Yeah, me. 1995 KTM 440MXC with FMF pipe. I hate that thing now and it's for sale. Kickstarting it is an olympic event and when the engine is up in the powerband it's like totally uncontrollable. My first few times out with it I was doing accidental wheelies in third gear. Eventually I learned to ride it by just never going into the powerband, but it wasn't much fun. Dude, supermoto. Keep that thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 00:16
|
|
|
KARMA! posted:Stop crashing. Trying ReelBigLizard posted:There are loads of generic shocks you could fit too, that's what I did on my BSA. You could even upgrade for probably less than the out of production OEMs will cost you. Any suggestions for aftermarket shocks? I'm gonna try and chase this tecshox guy on ebay for some shocks because i cant afford $320 in charity.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 00:40
|
|
|
mutt2jeff posted:Dude, supermoto. Keep that thing. In one sense (only one) it was a great trail bike cause it had so much torque you could just pin it open from idle and go up any hill.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 02:37
|
|
|
Kommando posted:Any suggestions for aftermarket shocks? Hagon will probably do a set identical to the OEM shocks for not a whole lot of dollars. ^^^^^^^ Wouldn't porting the engine just make it worse?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 03:12
|
|
|
maybe a goon can shed some light on my situation. i noticed the front brake on my honda rebel (yeahyeah, cute, woman's bike, etc.) was getting spongy so I flushed the breaks. while I was at it, i put new pads in, and replaced the caliper because the piston on the old one was stuck. voila! still spongy. what the gently caress? it's not like it's a complicated system or something. but i am new at this.. i was reading that I could be losing hydraulic pressure due to degradation of the brake line causing it to expand. is this a likely culprit, or should i be looking elsewhere?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 03:21
|
|
|
I've heard huge 2 strokes like CR500's and such don't make good supermoto bikes. I'd assume them to be too peaky, and you can get almost the same amount of power out of a 450 4t with a much, much more useable powerband. Same for motocross - why use the 2t with peaky power output when you can ride a 4t that you can lug in 3rd all day long and never fall out of the powerband. That being said, I miss the poo poo out of my KX250 2t and am really looking at a DRZ to trade up to so I can relive my dirtbike shenanigans on the street.
|
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 03:41
|
|
|
JP Money posted:I've heard huge 2 strokes like CR500's and such don't make good supermoto bikes. I'd assume them to be too peaky, and you can get almost the same amount of power out of a 450 4t with a much, much more useable powerband. Same for motocross - why use the 2t with peaky power output when you can ride a 4t that you can lug in 3rd all day long and never fall out of the powerband. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Apr 19, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 05:09
|
|
|
sixdeadpandas posted:maybe a goon can shed some light on my situation. i noticed the front brake on my honda rebel (yeahyeah, cute, woman's bike, etc.) was getting spongy so I flushed the breaks. while I was at it, i put new pads in, and replaced the caliper because the piston on the old one was stuck. voila! still spongy. what the gently caress? it's not like it's a complicated system or something. but i am new at this.. Define spongy. You can get some loss of initial bite as the lines flex, but it's not a major component. My bet is you still have air in the lines, if the lever is not firm, or you need to rebuild the master cylinder, if it's consistent but bad.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 05:11
|
|
|
Shouting Melon posted:Hagon will probably do a set identical to the OEM shocks for not a whole lot of dollars. Ok, well i understand the reason behind better offroad shocks but what would the benefit of aftermarket shocks be for road use? better ground contact? wouldnt tyres make more of a difference?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 07:09
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:There are plenty of ~600cc inline four motorcycles with powerbands that aren't supersport-peaky.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 07:42
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Define spongy. You can get some loss of initial bite as the lines flex, but it's not a major component. My bet is you still have air in the lines, if the lever is not firm, or you need to rebuild the master cylinder, if it's consistent but bad. it just feels soft. i can pull the lever all the way down and the front tire won't lock up. the gasket and everything on the master cylinder look well sealed, but then again i'm no professional. i'll bleed the brakes again tomorrow. i have been doing it manually, hopefully that is not an impediment to perfectly clear lines. thanks
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 09:00
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Which brings me to a question - how bad of an idea would it be to buy a 250 2t as a first dirtbike? Yeah, it depends on the setup. A CRM250 geared fairly high and in stock trim (ie untuned), for example, would make a nice first trail bike. A 250 MX bike OTOH (and especially an "old school" one) is geared for about 50-60mph and delivers its power like a sledgehammer hitting you in the small of your back. As a beginner, you won't even get close to being able to handle the power put down by an uncorked modern 4t MX bike (e.g. any reasonably modern YZ250F). The 2t versions have an even less civilised powerband. You can't really get an idea of what they're like on dirt just sitting on one or riding around the street, where all dirt bikes will feel like fish out of water. Ideally, see if you can borrow or rent one (schools or try out days) so you're able to get some idea of what they're like. Riding on the road doesn't really give you much of an idea what 30-40hp on dirt feels like. With all that said, starting on a 2t has the significant advantage that they're mechanically simple. Buying an old 4t, especially a competition engined bike, is asking for a very expensive top-end explosion. Until you have to split the cases at least, keeping an old 2t running will be so much cheaper. If you're buying something older, the 2t's weight advantage is also significant. So you can get a sweet handling bike that's cheaper to run and less fatiguing to ride. The trade off is having to deal with the power band instead of paying attention to other aspects of the ride. If you have money to burn however, a modern injected 250 4t in trail or enduro trim (e.g. WR250F or WR250R) is significantly easier to ride. Uncorked, they have more than enough power up top. But when you're in the training wheels stage, you can just lug them and still keep moving in a forwards direction. e: so basically, what needknees said +1. And like he said, a smaller 2t would reduce the arrgghhhhfuuuuuckI'mgonnadie factor a bit. KTM 125EXC, or maybe even a 200EXC (although I gather those are sort of like a 250 with less top end, so not necessarily more novice friendly.)Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester, I've seen something scarier than your 440 this weekend - an old school Maico 500. I wanted to hide in a corner in case it saw me and attacked. Saga fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Apr 19, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 09:17
|
|
|
sixdeadpandas posted:it just feels soft. i can pull the lever all the way down and the front tire won't lock up. the gasket and everything on the master cylinder look well sealed, but then again i'm no professional. i'll bleed the brakes again tomorrow. i have been doing it manually, hopefully that is not an impediment to perfectly clear lines. It's not an impediment, but it is tricky. Sometimes it can help to take the caliper off, put something between the pads (so the lever doesn't bottom) and lift the caliper above the master cylinder. Google all you can on how to bleed motorcycle brakes, there are many tutorials and forum stories. If you have archives, I posted some pics of mounting steel braided hoses and bleeding here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3279096&pagenumber=3
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 10:17
|
|
|
Ola posted:It's not an impediment, but it is tricky. Sometimes it can help to take the caliper off, put something between the pads (so the lever doesn't bottom) and lift the caliper above the master cylinder. Google all you can on how to bleed motorcycle brakes, there are many tutorials and forum stories. If you have archives, I posted some pics of mounting steel braided hoses and bleeding here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3279096&pagenumber=3 thanks for the link and response. i'll bleed them once more, and it that doesn't work i'll try the trick with raising the caliper.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 22:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 22:45 |
|
|
Try bleeding the banjo bolts too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 23:22
|
|