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Suniikaa posted:Have you tried cleaning it first? I tried squirting various dirt-killing fluids in any line i could pop off, is removing it a better option? Sorry im pretty clueless in this reguard, any help would be great. Its weird because the problem keeps changing, at first the car would suddenly drop to 0RPM and die, than i kept driving it (left foot braking to get to work :rawk:) and it started only dying when i turned on the lights or turned on the AC. Now it just idles a few hundred RPM low and turning on the AC will bump it back up. (200RPM is a scary thing to see). Miata.net is as confused as i am. They linked me to an article about the 1.6 one, which is completely different.
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Apr 25, 2011 02:41
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Xovaan posted:With gas on the rise from $4.50/gallon and my project car (Volvo 240 Turbo) nearing completion... You should do a spreadsheet of how much fuel savings you'll get compared to your initial investment (cost of Miata) and upkeep (insurance).
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Apr 25, 2011 02:42
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Xovaan posted:With gas on the rise from $4.50/gallon and my project car (Volvo 240 Turbo) nearing completion, I'm looking for cheaper transportation options while still being able to have some fun driving around. My friends are all automotive enthusiasts and recommend Miatas because they get pretty good mileage and are awesome to drive. I had a Volvo 240 for awhile. I don't think any car could be cheaper to maintain than it was. No oil, coolant, fan? No problem, doesn't need any. Smash into a tree at 40mph? No problem just back up. You'll definitely notice the lack of steel and heft the Volvo had. I never felt safer in any car than that one.
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Apr 25, 2011 04:15
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Xovaan posted:1. Being 6'2", I don't fit into many cars. Will I fit into a Miata? As someone who has owned both a 240 and a Miata, I think I can help  1. The Miata is definitely significantly tighter than the 240. I was comfortable (quite so) in my 240, but half of the reason I sold my Miata is because I'm 6'4" and got tired of cramming myself into it. Everyone fits in differently and there are certainly people near my height who fit great, but there's also people shorter than me that it just won't work for. The only way to know for sure is to get in one, and realize that different versions will fit differently. I don't know about any differences in NA seats but I know there were at least two versions of NB seats. 2. As long as you can find a sane seller. People are managing to get the truly awful (cosmetically) cars into Lemons without too much bribery, for $2k you should be able to find a car that's a bit high on miles and rough around the edge, but no major problems. 3. The big difference is what needed work. They both needed about the same work, but when I worked on the Volvo it was typically a major requirement - brakes, steering. The Miata was either maintenance or window regulators.
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Apr 25, 2011 05:48
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Thanks for the responses! My friends are all mechanics so we're trying to find that sweet spot: "mechanically sound, but even Hellen Keller could see how ugly this thing is" My friends and I all have the same philosophy on cars: "The radio doesn't work, but the tape deck does. Awesome. I'm not gonna fix this. On purpose." - In response to him buying a 130k mile 280zx with one owner and no rust for $1000 Basically if the top goes up when it's raining, the pedals all work, and the engine doesn't make any horrible cacophonous bellows when I floor it, the thing's in the ballgame. We're ultimately aiming to talk somebody down to $1000 for a shitmobile.
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Apr 25, 2011 21:26
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Any reason not to buy the cheapest plain old steel rotors sold at the auto parts store for my street-driven 95M? I drive it fairly hard, but it's not at all like it's getting tracked. Will I regret getting the rotors that cost less than $20/corner? And speaking of brakes, what's the default go-to brake pad for the street these days?
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Apr 26, 2011 02:57
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There is no reason not to buy the cheapest poo poo rotors even if you do track it. I have <$20 rotors on my track Miata.
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Apr 26, 2011 03:06
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Makes do make a lick of difference though.
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Apr 26, 2011 03:23
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Finally fixed my window switch. I have a bad habit of putting off easy repairs that take 5 minutes- putting them off for months and living with the annoyances  Pretty easy. Take out the switch, pop off the bottom, shoot some carb cleaner onto a paper towel and wipe away all the carbon, scuff up the contacts with a razor blade, reassemble. Easy peasy. There was a lot of carbon on the contacts. If anyone has both windows failing intermittently at about the same time, this is what you need to do.
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Apr 26, 2011 06:36
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Well, I got my rotors and pads from Flyin' Miata, see http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2651683&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=156#post388356726 I notice a big difference between stock but of course I had the original 11 year old rotors and pads on. Still, I don't remember my miata being able to stop so well even 7 years ago when I got it. You can get away with using $20 rotors though. I just don't think they will last as long or look as good.
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Apr 26, 2011 06:37
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Guinness posted:Any reason not to buy the cheapest plain old steel rotors sold at the auto parts store for my street-driven 95M? I drive it fairly hard, but it's not at all like it's getting tracked. Will I regret getting the rotors that cost less than $20/corner? My (cheap) NAPA rotors and Hawk HP+ pads feel pretty drat amazing in AutoX on my 95M. On the street the pads are noisy, and need a tiny bit of a heat to bite hard, but are perfectly safe even cold -- I wouldn't recommend them, however, if their purpose is strictly for the streets. King-Kong fucked around with this message at 11:59 on Apr 26, 2011 |
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Apr 26, 2011 11:57
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Guinness posted:Definitely get glass no matter what you get. I thought glass was a pain bc its not compatible with most roll bars?
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Apr 26, 2011 21:08
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Blaise posted:I thought glass was a pain bc its not compatible with most roll bars? Ah, that may be true. I don't have a rollbar, nor do I intend to get one. If you do or are planning on it, you'll need to do some extra research to find a compatible combination of top and bar.
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Apr 26, 2011 21:38
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Well, that and that I'm either driving the car top down or I'm not driving it at all. On rainy days I can either run the hard top or drive the WRX... Nice to have choices 
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Apr 26, 2011 22:09
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Xovaan posted:1. Being 6'2", I don't fit into many cars. Will I fit into a Miata? I'm 6'3" and I just got back into my old NA after 1 year of being away from it and 4 months of driving a mustang. It now feels uncomfortably tight. I CAN drive it, but I wouldn't wanna do it for more than an hour at a time.
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Apr 26, 2011 22:28
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Blaise posted:I thought glass was a pain bc its not compatible with most roll bars? Hmmm... poo poo. Guess I need to pick, buy and install a rollbar before I get a new top?
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Apr 27, 2011 02:54
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You just can't really have a harness bar and a glass window. The glass will (most likely) lay on top of the bar if so, which is still functional, just depends on how ocd you are about it looking sort of weird and scrunched up. Any Hard Dog bar for the NB (labeled as M2) will work on the NA as well and allow the glass window. For instance, the Hard Dog Hardcore double diagonal for the NB will fit in a NA just fine.
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Apr 27, 2011 03:07
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I hate to say it, but every time home improvement money takes on Miata money, the Miata loses  That said, is there a cheaper way to buy a remote fob for a 2001 than going to the dealer?
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Apr 27, 2011 04:35
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GD_American posted:Hmmm... poo poo. Guess I need to pick, buy and install a rollbar before I get a new top? Depends. As stated above, it's the harness bar that's in the way. If you're not gonna run a harness (I am), then an M2 bar should be fine.
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Apr 27, 2011 17:43
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Any recommendations on aftermarket steering wheels? I have a lot of trouble with heel and toe since my knees brush under my wheel and its almost impossibly difficult. I'm thinking a slightly smaller than stock wheel with a 1/2" spacer will solve the issue. That and the FM pedal extension.
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Apr 28, 2011 01:13
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First Time Caller posted:Any recommendations on aftermarket steering wheels? I have a lot of trouble with heel and toe since my knees brush under my wheel and its almost impossibly difficult. I'm going to hop on this train and possibly hijack it. I've got the same issue. The problem is, I'd like to keep running in STS where they don't allow you to remove the airbag. Is it possible to space out the stock wheel a bit? Does anyone think there'd be a safety issue with putting the airbag closer to me? Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Apr 28, 2011 |
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Apr 28, 2011 02:16
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Have either of you done foamectomies?
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Apr 28, 2011 03:00
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First Time Caller posted:Any recommendations on aftermarket steering wheels? I have a lot of trouble with heel and toe since my knees brush under my wheel and its almost impossibly difficult. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Apr 28, 2011 |
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Apr 28, 2011 03:15
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GD_American posted:I hate to say it, but every time home improvement money takes on Miata money, the Miata loses You can order them at autozone for what usually amounts to slightly less than dealer pricing.
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Apr 28, 2011 06:58
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Krakkles posted:How are you performing your heel-toe? My knee does not move in any significant manner. Mine does. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qf9FnUigU-w#t=5m4s (5m04s for reference) I actually use my heel. Ziploc fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Apr 28, 2011 |
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Apr 28, 2011 14:02
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Hur double post
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Apr 28, 2011 14:03
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Krakkles posted:How are you performing your heel-toe? My knee does not move in any significant manner. My right leg needs to come towards my left leg in order to get any leverage on the throttle. It has to "bend in" if that makes sense. Foamectomy as ziploc suggested might be the way to go. Certainly cheaper. I do occasionally go on 4 hour + excursions and I dont want to sacrifice my butts comfort.
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Apr 28, 2011 14:15
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VIS hardtops- cheap junk? (699 buy it now on Ebay)
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May 1, 2011 04:17
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Buy a real one on CL for 800.
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May 1, 2011 05:29
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Check engine light comes on with my NC when the tank is more then half full. Once it's less then about half full, the light goes away. Odd.
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May 1, 2011 20:44
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dema posted:Check engine light comes on with my NC when the tank is more then half full. Once it's less then about half full, the light goes away. Odd. Maybe something with the vapor return system. I think it's just your car telling you it's too heavy with a full tank of fuel
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May 1, 2011 21:33
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Phone posted:Buy a real one on CL for 800. yeah, that doesn't happen in my area. by real one, what brands?
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May 2, 2011 02:10
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Mazda.
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May 2, 2011 02:47
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Phone posted:Mazda. oh. No aftermarket ones worth getting?
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May 2, 2011 02:58
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SnugTops are decent fit and finish wise but have a small rear window that makes the whole thing look terribly goofy, and I've only seen two or three for sale ever. And they must be out of business by now(?). VIS and Chaser tops both need lexan windows with rivets, I've yet to see anyone make the trim around a lexan window look nice. Also they both require like $40+$40+$60 in extra hardware, and then whatever you end up paying for the lexan and seals, you're gonna be a few hundred over the initial cost. So if you can get one for less than like $400, sure, go for it, but otherwise, just get a used OEM. Autokonexion fastback is like $1800 if you are friends with the guy, and is supremely awesome.
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May 2, 2011 03:06
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dema posted:Check engine light comes on with my NC when the tank is more then half full. Once it's less then about half full, the light goes away. Odd. This usually has to do with the vapor return being clogged up causing wonky pressure readings.
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May 2, 2011 03:09
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GD_American posted:oh. Outside of the Autokonexion, not really. They all have weird fitment issues and I know that the Autokonexion used the OEM top as a base when they were prototyping.
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May 2, 2011 03:40
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Phone posted:Outside of the Autokonexion, not really. They all have weird fitment issues and I know that the Autokonexion used the OEM top as a base when they were prototyping. . But yeah, no point in dealing with a Lexan window/finding hardware/seals if you can stand to wait to find an OEM top.
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May 2, 2011 05:21
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destructo posted:Clearly none of the obvious OEM clones used the OEM top for a mold Autokonexion actually used an OEM hardtop in their prototypes.
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May 2, 2011 05:29
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After about 3 years of wanting one, I finally got one (worth buying). The cars around here (northern alberta) are usually junk, 300,000+ km, or bashed to hell, or salvage titles... So I ended up with a 1990 with 112,000km (70,000mile) car, decent shape, hard top, soft top is good condition. There is some body work needed on the left rear. It probably needs a timing belt and such but hey, it was only $2500. Some photos.. http://sb911.imgur.com/1990_miata#7OCoP
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May 3, 2011 05:59
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