|
Christoff posted:Yeah I think that's it. It rides perfectly fine otherwise I adjusted to the difference real quick. Oh yeah just loosen the top 4 bolts and slide it back over then. You should swing by at some point...we can do some sumo ride stuff.
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 07:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 04:36 |
|
|
Yeah I'll have a look. So I know this is more of a general question but how do bike loans work? I've never gotten a loan for anything. I need to build credit so why not get a bike loan? My bank is USAA. I have very little (but good) credit. I can probably throw down $2-3k without having to sell my bike first.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 07:32
|
|
|
Saga posted:Find an old TY175/250 twinshock. Or a Bultaco Sherpa. Stick road rubber on it. Hey presto! M.C. McMic Sherpa:  Some random bloke from GIS with a TY, showing OEM road kit and seat height:  Has the benefit that unlike a cruiser, these and similar trials machines come with gentle to moderate trail riding and as-hard-as-you-like (for a twinshock) trials capability. Simply setup suspension as required. The TY is quite well-behaved on the road. The seat is quite generous and is actually high by trials standards, and added bonus, if your legs get tired you can stand up all the way to your destination. This causes dopey loving car drivers to flash their lights at you and veer towards the curb in terror (I wish I was making the last bit up), but is handy for maximising airflow on warm days. The only problem is that even with tall gearing and a following wind, 55-60 has to be about the limit. OTOH, you ride a '71 CB350, so that shouldn't be a huge problem. Also, maintenance is easy (aircooled 2t!) and parts are fairly easy to source for the popular twinshocks.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 11:18
|
|
|
JP Money posted:What exactly is heating it up? Proximity to the pipe itself or is the actual exhaust gas hitting the bag? So if I tape something like this http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/productdetail/tapes-and-fasteners/thermaflect-tape/69/22 to the bottom of my bag it will keep it from getting hot? There is an inch of clearance which is what the specs say. That seems incredible to me that this would work (as you can tell I am not the mechanical master)
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 12:29
|
|
|
I'll make no claims as to the actual quality of that product as I have no idea but yes that sort of tape is able to reflect heat (obviously). I don't know how successful you'll be in getting that stuff to stick however as it looks like it's pretty thick stuff and not so flexible. Is the part of the bag overhanging the exhaust flat on the bottom? Maybe you could tape up a piece of aluminum or whatever that matches the bottom of the bag and then attach that somehow. That's bordering heavily in the "not worth it" territory though. You don't wrap the exhaust at the silencer portion, that's for the header. I guess if you don't mind it looking silly you could fab up a plate with the aforementioned tape on it that is mounted on the pipe as a sort of heatshield. You could simply get a piece of perforated metal strapping and bend it into shape around the pipe and affix the shield to that. Again, this may be in "silly" territory though. Look here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-743678.html for a little guidance.
|
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 13:07
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:No, the F4i is just incredibly relaxed compared to modern sportbikes. You just need to change the way you ride - I hold myself up by locking my thighs against the tank with my feet and relying on core strength. I can ride 8-10 hour days like this just fine, and I have pretty bad back issues. Raised rearsets and tank grips helped a lot. The Kawi and Yamaha have more 'dedicated' riding positions than the GSXR and CBR though, in my opinion. Thanks for the feedback. I've read most of the popular "technique" sportbike books, so I understand the importance of keeping the weight off your hands. It just felt like more of a challenge to me on the Yamaha. Now that I've thought about it some more, I wonder if adjusting the controls (like rotating the clutch/brake) would have helped as well. I think you've mentioned a few times in CA that you used to have a F4i. What do you ride now?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 13:12
|
|
|
Christoff posted:I'm pretty set on it regardless. I'm going to come by and visit one of these days.... Loosen the triple clamps a tiny bit and push the wheel up against a wall, that worked for my dr.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 13:26
|
|
|
xd posted:Thanks for the feedback. I've read most of the popular "technique" sportbike books, so I understand the importance of keeping the weight off your hands. It just felt like more of a challenge to me on the Yamaha. Now that I've thought about it some more, I wonder if adjusting the controls (like rotating the clutch/brake) would have helped as well. Core exercises and leg exercises help a lot. In fact, my first serious workouts started as an attempt to remedy my flagging stamina at the end of long track days. Squats, crunches, hyperextensions, and good mornings will all help strengthen the important parts. Another tip that has helped me is to keep your elbows loose. If you can waggle your arms like a duck, you're good. If not, you've probably got too much weight on your arms, or you're holding the handlebars too tight.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 13:32
|
|
|
Pagan posted:Core exercises and leg exercises help a lot. In fact, my first serious workouts started as an attempt to remedy my flagging stamina at the end of long track days. Squats, crunches, hyperextensions, and good mornings will all help strengthen the important parts. Stomp grips. Or are those not cool any more? Regardless, they will help keep your weight off your hands by letting you transfer braking forces through your thigh.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 14:29
|
|
|
Saga posted:The only problem is that even with tall gearing and a following wind, 55-60 has to be about the limit. OTOH, you ride a '71 CB350, so that shouldn't be a huge problem. Also, maintenance is easy (aircooled 2t!) and parts are fairly easy to source for the popular twinshocks. Looks like a neat little bike, but I'm actually looking to upgrade my own ride to something like a SV650 or something similar in the not *too* distant future. I feel like I still have some learning to do on the UJM first. However, my girlfriend would need to at least be able to take the bike on the freeway, I think. Really, that's my only issue with my CB350. I love the bike to death. It was my friend's (he passed away) bike and holds a great deal of sentimental value. I'll never sell it. However, I can't exactly take it out on the highway with great frequency or rely on it should I ever want to ride it to work or whatever. With the throttle pinned in top gear, it probably goes 70 to 75mph. So, I may make the Honda a weekend warrior that I tinker with in my spare time to get a bit more familiar with working on motorcycles. I'll maintain and slowly upgrade stuff. Ultimately, I'd like something larger that I don't have to maintain to such a large degree.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 15:29
|
|
|
Saga posted:Stomp grips. Or are those not cool any more? Regardless, they will help keep your weight off your hands by letting you transfer braking forces through your thigh. I've never heard of those, but they look quite useful. My street bike, the 599, has a glossy leather seat. Looks great, and when it's me by myself, it's fine. But when I have a passenger, they always end up sliding forward and pushing me up against the tank. I know they kinda can't help it, since they don't have anything to hold on to besides me. I'm considering just laying a strip of skateboard grip tape down the center of the seat.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 16:26
|
|
|
Pagan posted:Another tip that has helped me is to keep your elbows loose. If you can waggle your arms like a duck, you're good. If not, you've probably got too much weight on your arms, or you're holding the handlebars too tight. Discovering this is one of the biggest "holy crap" moments I've had in learning how to ride. I discovered that I'd been keeping my arms very rigid, particularly in tense moments like tight turns, and actually fighting myself when trying to steer. As soon as I made a deliberate effort to keep my elbows loose, my control of the bike entered an entirely new level.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 16:39
|
|
|
Pagan posted:I've never heard of those, but they look quite useful. Tell them to brace themselves with their hands on the tank.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 16:58
|
|
|
Pagan posted:I've never heard of those, but they look quite useful. If their arms are too short to take n8r's suggestion, Givi luggage racks make great hand holds for passengers.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 17:06
|
|
|
n8r posted:Tell them to brace themselves with their hands on the tank. Yeah, my last GF was 5'2", so she couldn't reach the tank even when I pushed all the way forward. My new girl is 5'11" so she might have an easier time of it.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 17:13
|
|
|
What does 520 and 530 mean when talking about chains and sprockets? All the sprockets I look at say 520 and I think my chain is 530. Does that mean I have to change my chain?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 19:56
|
|
|
Pagan posted:Yeah, my last GF was 5'2", so she couldn't reach the tank even when I pushed all the way forward. My new girl is 5'11" so she might have an easier time of it. What's the ride and handling like on the new model? 
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 19:59
|
|
|
Yeah. You can think of the number as the "width" of the chain wrt the distance between "pins". 520 is lighter (in every case I've seen) and is usually paired with lighter sprockets or different ratios to add some power to the bike by reducing the weight of the drive system. It's recommended you replace the whole set of sprockets and chain together to prevent funky wearing. I'd recommend steel sprockets as they wear down incredibly slow and are fairly cheap. Aluminum just isn't worth it imo as you'll be dropping 150++ dollars a year on putting on a new set + chain.
|
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 20:03
|
|
|
Forty Two posted:What's the ride and handling like on the new model? One is high performance but high maintenance. The other one, although sporty and incredibly reliable, just doesn't have the same thrilling level of performance. So I decided to go with the Aprilia over the Honda.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 20:58
|
|
|
Pagan posted:One is high performance but high maintenance. The other one, although sporty and incredibly reliable, just doesn't have the same thrilling level of performance. So I decided to go with the Aprilia over the Honda. Enjoy the more frequent tear downs and rebuilds.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 21:10
|
|
|
Ola posted:Enjoy the more frequent tear downs and rebuilds. Unlike real bikes, I can't keep both. I would if I could, but neither one will tolerate the other sharing the same garage.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 22:11
|
|
|
Clank posted:What does 520 and 530 mean when talking about chains and sprockets? All the sprockets I look at say 520 and I think my chain is 530. Does that mean I have to change my chain? It has something to do with roller diameter/pitch/zalgo-, and according to this article a 530 is fine on a 520 sprocket. http://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.HTM
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 22:23
|
|
|
Bondematt posted:It has something to do with roller diameter/pitch/zalgo-, and according to this article a 530 is fine on a 520 sprocket. I wouldn't recommend that. You're going to have a lot of side to side slop in the chain that's going to do weird poo poo to the sprockets.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 22:34
|
|
|
Pagan posted:Unlike real bikes, I can't keep both. I would if I could, but neither one will tolerate the other sharing the same garage. That's why you store the track day bike at the track.  No I'm sorry, I've stretched the analogy past the breaking point.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 22:42
|
|
|
Ola posted:That's why you store the track day bike at the track. Ha! I think my bike (real bike, not my metaphorical one) and the weather are somehow intertwined. When the bike is decommissioned, such as for winter storage, the weather is amazing. But once I get it all up and running, new tires and brakes, everything working perfectly... in rolls rain and clouds. I went for a ride anyway, even though it was 45 and raining. Dammit new england, the riding season is short enough as it is.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2011 22:45
|
|
|
Don Music posted:Hi guys,
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 00:05
|
|
) realised that it was pretty much connected to the U shaped bracket.
|
Don Music posted:Hi guys, Try spinning the top nut loose to unlock it the whole deal, then spin the lower nut while the top one is still loose. My reading comprehension is too poor to figure out of you've tried that combination of spinning nuts, but that looks like an adjuster on the bottom and a lock nut on top, or vice-versa. Whether or not that works, remember to tighten stuff back up before you ride it.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 00:28
|
|
|
Just took my VL250 to the garage & got a loaner GZ250. Do not like it at all because when I change gears upwards, it lurches forwards and when I twist the throttle off, it maintains speed instead of decelerating. It also vibrates a hell of a lot more when idle. Is this normal for single cylinder bikes or is it just me not being used to the new bike?
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 00:33
|
|
|
The only possible thing I think can happen with it, is dismantling the entire thing, getting a smaller bolt in somehow, or hacksawing the bolt to make it shorter, and re-assembling everything. Looking on the Ninja 250 wiki, they have a similar setup with the U bracket, but I think mine is at the max adjustment with this bolt.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 00:39
|
|
|
Hi guys. The indicator has snapped off my bike (XR125) and I have no idea how to go about sorting it out. This is the damage (apologies for grainy webcam shots): The support broke which caused the stalk to dangle off, when I had a closer look the wiring snapped. The support:  What it should look like:  The rest of it is stuck on the bike and I cannot get it off. The nut is stuck fast and I can't get enough leverage on it. I've sprayed it with WD40 but that just causes the wrench to slip off.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 00:56
|
|
|
Odette posted:Is this normal for single cylinder bikes or is it just me not being used to the new bike? Oh yea, a single is going to have considerable vibration if you're used to a twin. It also probably has a heavier crank to smooth out some of the thumper vibes, which will help produce more of the throttle-off coasting you're experiencing.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 00:59
|
|
|
JP Money posted:What exactly is heating it up? Proximity to the pipe itself or is the actual exhaust gas hitting the bag? I think I need to fab something for the pipe, I googled some but am unsure the best way to do this? find a local welder maybe?
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 03:24
|
|
|
Just use some hose clamps and get a piece of not too thick aluminum that's cut into a rectangle. Bend the aluminum to have about the same curve of the pipe and then attach it through whatever way you want to the hose clamps. Seems like the simplest / cheapest way to me. You can cover the part of the shield that faces the bike with some of the heat reflecting tape if it still doesn't do a good enough job of stopping the heat. Personally unless you absolutely, positively know you won't be changing pipes I'd go with the more universal cheapie route so that you can take it off if need be and re-do it or put it on another pipe.
|
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 03:47
|
|
|
Ribsauce posted:I think I need to fab something for the pipe, I googled some but am unsure the best way to do this? find a local welder maybe? I found a piece of metal and bent it by hand. You can go to any major construction supply store and get pieces of aluminum flashing. Easy enough to bend by hand, or over a curb. I had to do the same thing, I have my luggage strapped around my muffler right now. It's a carbon slipon; it never gets hotter than "pretty warm to the touch." I just made a shield with some of that aluminum tape around the front where one of the buckles gets close to a metal piece of the exhaust pipe.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 03:52
|
|
|
Unless the bag is getting close to melting I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just don't carry your milk or cold beer on that side.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 06:28
|
|
|
Frankston posted:The rest of it is stuck on the bike and I cannot get it off. The nut is stuck fast and I can't get enough leverage on it. I've sprayed it with WD40 but that just causes the wrench to slip off. I'd probably be cutting a slot in the nut with the Dremel at this point, you don't often need to cut the whole thing off, just a slot in one side of the nut and then pry it open with a flat blade driver or similar.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 13:51
|
|
|
Are there any minimally useable hand/foot-only air pumps that are capable of filling a motorcycle tire (to 38psi)? I do not have easy access to a car's cigarette lighter or a wall outlet, but would prefer owning a solution rather than bringing quarters over to the gas station periodically.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 21:55
|
|
|
Same Great Paste posted:Are there any minimally useable hand/foot-only air pumps that are capable of filling a motorcycle tire (to 38psi)? I do not have easy access to a car's cigarette lighter or a wall outlet, but would prefer owning a solution rather than bringing quarters over to the gas station periodically. I was curious about this myself. This one http://www.rei.com/product/686215/topeak-road-master-blaster-frame-fit-pump says it can do 120 psi with ease...didn't expect that. It would be nice with a gauge on it.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 22:00
|
|
|
I'd say you're better off with a good strong pump and a separate gauge. From my own experience the gauges that are built in to most stirrup pumps aren't usually that great, but if you have an accurate dedicated gauge you can always overfill it with the pump and then measure and let air out slowly to the desired pressure. Luckily, most of the garages where I live have free air, I usually just check it every few fill-ups.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 22:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 04:36 |
|
|
Floor pumps work fine for pumping up motorcycle tires: http://www.rei.com/product/799193/serfas-fp-55-floor-pump something like that
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2011 22:26
|
|