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How much do bike prices drop in the fall? What month is typically best time to buy? (assuming 4 season weather)
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May 12, 2011 00:09
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| # ? May 17, 2024 00:13 |
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In my experience, it's best to buy in the winter, right before major holidays as people are trying to pay bills/get money for gifts and stuff. The month or so leading up to Christmas is great for getting killer deals if you're willing to move on stuff when it comes up. Figure a 10-30% drop in prices from summer to winter, depending on bike and your local market.
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May 12, 2011 00:12
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Russian Bear posted:How much do bike prices drop in the fall? What month is typically best time to buy? (assuming 4 season weather) Late fall when the weather turns to rear end and it sucks to ride without waterproof gear. At least around here. Sort of depends on your local seasonal weather. I'm more in favor of having a budget and a preference and buying the right one for the right price, regardless of timeframe. I got a wicked deal on my vstar on the hottest day of the year.
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May 12, 2011 00:15
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I bought a pair of Oggy Knobs for my bike, and the instructions say they need to be tightened up to 75nm using a torque wrench. Do you need a torque wrench? This will be about the only application I would have for one, and I dont really feel like forking out ~80 dollars for one...
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May 12, 2011 00:18
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I guess it would depend on what you're tightening them up to and what kind of bolts are involved. 75 N-m while not a ton is still a pretty fair amount and it might be good to Just Do Things Right. It's not like it's the only use you'll ever have for the tool anyway, or you can just see if you could borrow one from a friend.
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May 12, 2011 00:21
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Don Music posted:I bought a pair of Oggy Knobs for my bike, and the instructions say they need to be tightened up to 75nm using a torque wrench. If you have a bike, a torque wrench is an essential investment.
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May 12, 2011 00:26
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Don Music posted:I bought a pair of Oggy Knobs for my bike, and the instructions say they need to be tightened up to 75nm using a torque wrench. 55 foot pounds is quite a bit of torque, a beam type will do you just fine for that, should be available for pretty cheap ($10-20)
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May 12, 2011 00:52
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Right, so I was having some strange behaviour from the Zuk last year. Time for some nice old carburettor cleaning, I thought. First problem (only as of now, but I'm sure there will be more): the pilot screws on the two inner carb are stuck. Seized like someone dipped them good in super glue before putting them in. The outer two where just like they should be, and did not give me any trouble whatsoever, but these two... The heads are starting to strip and they just will not budge. Suggestions? The two that didn't give me any trouble where 1,25 turns out. According to the manual, they're supposed to be 1,8 to 1,9 turns out.
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May 12, 2011 02:44
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Don Music posted:I bought a pair of Oggy Knobs for my bike, and the instructions say they need to be tightened up to 75nm using a torque wrench. If this is for your VTR, the knobs re-use the front engine mount bolts on the frame. Up to you.  You'll also need a torque wrench if you want to adjust the chain, so you might as well get one.
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May 12, 2011 06:46
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Same Great Paste posted:Are there any minimally useable hand/foot-only air pumps that are capable of filling a motorcycle tire (to 38psi)? I do not have easy access to a car's cigarette lighter or a wall outlet, but would prefer owning a solution rather than bringing quarters over to the gas station periodically. Any track pump from your local bicycle shop. E.g. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cycle/floor-pumps/ Also works on bicycles!
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May 12, 2011 10:07
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edit: question does not equal chat
Ola fucked around with this message at 12:38 on May 12, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 11:51
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Welp, my HJC CL-Max is broken. There's a little black retention lever thingy on the visor baseplates, and the pin running through this lever apparently broke and sent the spring into low orbit. Time to take it back to the shop and hope for a refund.  Haven't even rode in it yet. I was just wearing it and getting used to raising and lowering the shield, not the chin bar. What a piece of poo poo. 
Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 14:46 on May 12, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 12:11
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I've got a stuck caliper piston. Long soaks in WD40 and chemdip followed by not so gentle persuasion with a hammer didn't get me anywhere. Next step was gonna be hooking it up to my air compressor, but I've heard a grease gun may work? Anyone here have any success with that?
ReidRansom fucked around with this message at 20:00 on May 12, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 19:50
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Just Passed my safety course and got a licence. Never ridden before. Should I buy this? Seems like a short window of opportunity. http://rochester.craigslist.org/mcy/2377129263.html
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May 12, 2011 19:57
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I prefer the air compressor method because you dont have to clean grease out afterwards, but be careful, the piston will basically fly out of the caliper, be ready so it doesnt hit t.he ground and get messed up
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May 12, 2011 19:57
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Anyone ever heard of or tried this stuff? http://www.getg.com/products/products.php?CategoryID=2&ProductID=10 As a two stroker I'm acutely aware that two stroke bikes piss the vast majority of the general public off. I'd rather minimize that as much as I can, plus a clean burning usa-sourced oil is just cool.
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May 12, 2011 20:04
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Phat_Albert posted:Anyone ever heard of or tried this stuff? http://www.getg.com/products/products.php?CategoryID=2&ProductID=10 I'd love to try that if I had a two stroke, but I would perhaps require the seller give me an EcoStroke (or similar) sticker so I could flag my greenness to the world.
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May 12, 2011 21:27
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I would probably try this stuff: http://www.getg.com/products/products.php?CategoryID=3&ProductID=11
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May 12, 2011 21:37
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ReidRansom posted:I've got a stuck caliper piston. Long soaks in WD40 and chemdip followed by not so gentle persuasion with a hammer didn't get me anywhere. Next step was gonna be hooking it up to my air compressor, but I've heard a grease gun may work? Anyone here have any success with that?
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May 12, 2011 21:51
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Ola posted:I'd love to try that if I had a two stroke, but I would perhaps require the seller give me an EcoStroke (or similar) sticker so I could flag my greenness to the world. Its not really a "look at me IM GREEEN" thing, its just me trying not to piss everyone off. I love two strokes as much as anyone (probably more than most), but there are so so many guys who run the smokiest oil they can find, jet their bikes really rich, run their oil pumps at higher rates, and all sorts of other retarded poo poo to be as obnoxious as they can as sort of a finger to the EPA, "treehuggers" and other people that they dont like. Thats a dead end road. Two strokes have already been killed by emissions requirements, and it wont take much more than the right person getting pissed to ban them outright. I'm trying not to add fuel to the fire. Sorry for my momentary step up onto the soapbox.
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May 12, 2011 23:13
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My friend's RD350 is jetted so cleanly at this point that it doesn't even really smoke. It's pretty impressive. It's nice and (relatively) quiet, no smoke, super smooth...I love that thing. I don't know what oil he uses (I know it's expensive), but his is drat near perfect. 10k on it since the last rebuild, still runs great and starts first kick.
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May 12, 2011 23:17
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My RV90 is like that. Other than the sound, you wouldn't know its not a 4-stroke. My Kawasaki F11 is smokier, and really smoky when its cold.
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May 12, 2011 23:29
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Is there a big difference between a modern Ninja 500 and one from say, 1997? I've been looking to pick up a used Ninja and in order to get something from 2007+ I'm looking at paying about $2000 more. The style really hasn't changed much from what I can tell, beyond the awful paint jobs on the older bikes. Do they perform roughly the same? As an example, would this be a bad bike to purchase? http://www.nlclassifieds.com/classifieds/RecreationVehicles/Motorcycles/Kawasaki/617937
Ducks fucked around with this message at 06:32 on May 13, 2011 |
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May 13, 2011 04:23
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There is no difference in Ninja 500s after 1994 other than minor tweaks. It's a pretty good bike, I love it for commuting. The only downside in the twisties is it's bare essentials suspension. I can get up to 60 mpg, or if I'm flogging her like she owes me money it drops to 50. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 06:18 on May 13, 2011 |
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May 13, 2011 06:11
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I think this could be a fun project bike to play around with, assuming the frame is straight. Can bikes with lost titles be titled? What does "due to an accident" mean? Is something like this worth bothering with? The $550 tag seems like an attractive entry price. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/mcy/2378684196.html
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May 13, 2011 23:53
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chryst posted:I think this could be a fun project bike to play around with, assuming the frame is straight. Can bikes with lost titles be titled? What does "due to an accident" mean? Is something like this worth bothering with? The $550 tag seems like an attractive entry price. Written off title, because of the accident. Might be fixible, might not...depends on the laws of your state.
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May 14, 2011 00:00
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Z3n posted:Written off title, because of the accident. Might be fixible, might not...depends on the laws of your state.
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May 14, 2011 00:57
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Someone should buy this and turn it into a track bike http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/2379229246.html
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May 14, 2011 02:23
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ReidRansom posted:I've got a stuck caliper piston. Long soaks in WD40 and chemdip followed by not so gentle persuasion with a hammer didn't get me anywhere. Next step was gonna be hooking it up to my air compressor, but I've heard a grease gun may work? Anyone here have any success with that? I've tried compressed air but never had any luck on getting them out with it. I pretty much always just hook them up to the master cyl and pump the lever until the piston pops out. No messing with grease or whatever then. Just make sure you put a bucket under to catch the piston and the glop of nasty fluid that comes out behind it.
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May 14, 2011 02:44
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What do you guys use to deep clean the fins on the engine? I dont think degreaser and spraying water will work too great and my fingers cant get in there.
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May 14, 2011 16:49
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titanium posted:What do you guys use to deep clean the fins on the engine? I dont think degreaser and spraying water will work too great and my fingers cant get in there. S100 is good for cleaning those hard to get places, even better if you have a power washer to rinse it off or some of these.
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May 14, 2011 18:00
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Went with the grease gun since it threaded right on to the hole for the banjo bolt and since I didn't have a fitting that would work for the air compressor. Worked like a charm. Pump pump pump pop.
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May 14, 2011 20:59
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Does anyone know if the AGV GP Tech and the K3 helmets have significant safety differences? I need a new lid and gloves and am getting a present from my girlfriend. I want to know whether to ask for a K3 and gloves or a GP tech and get the gloves on my own. I like my head.
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May 15, 2011 00:58
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KidDynamite posted:Does anyone know if the AGV GP Tech and the K3 helmets have significant safety differences? I need a new lid and gloves and am getting a present from my girlfriend. I want to know whether to ask for a K3 and gloves or a GP tech and get the gloves on my own. I like my head. They don't. Buy what fits better.
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May 15, 2011 01:19
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Z3n posted:They don't. Buy what fits better. I think it's going to be the K3 and gloves because they have the Rossi replica I like the best. It's between this one and this one. The donkey and the chicken one would be fun too.
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May 15, 2011 02:10
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Can you write up a quick review of the K3 when you buy it? I was looking at it too.
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May 15, 2011 04:18
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KidDynamite posted:Does anyone know if the AGV GP Tech and the K3 helmets have significant safety differences? I need a new lid and gloves and am getting a present from my girlfriend. I want to know whether to ask for a K3 and gloves or a GP tech and get the gloves on my own. I like my head. Are they on the SHARP helmet ratings? That at least gives you some indication. http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testhelmetlist?sharp-make=All&sharp-model=&sharp-type=2&sharp-rating=5&discontinued=1 ne: Yes they are: http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/agv-gp-tech http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/agv-k-3 GP Tech gets 5 stars, K-3 gets 4. So SHARP at least was able to find some qualitative difference in the performance of the shell.
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May 15, 2011 11:06
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Ok, so I've had my Dnepr out a few times now, and of course it still has issues. Russian technology and all. So a few questions for the more mechanically inclined. First: What is happening in carbs/an engine when after the bike is warmed up it will no longer idle without stalling? Some sort of leak? If I end up keeping this bike I am replacing the carbs, but for now I'd like to know what's happening. Second: When the bike is running and stopped, it won't shift into neutral. Period. It just skips right over it. Engine off, no problem. It will occasionally go into neutral while running and moving, I think. Quite annoying. Third: When I'm in 2nd or 3rd gear and giving it gas, I get this nice smooth power curve up to a certain RPM (no idea what, no tach) - and then it just stops. It's almost like after it hits that RPM it shifts into neutral. I have to shift up if I want to keep accelerating. WTF is that?
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May 15, 2011 12:51
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Backov posted:Ok, so I've had my Dnepr out a few times now, and of course it still has issues. Russian technology and all. So a few questions for the more mechanically inclined. First: Sounds like it's running rich Second: That sucks Third: How high is the RPM(IE slow, fast, I can hear my valves flapping)? I've had a bike running one cylinder feel exactly like this.
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May 15, 2011 13:40
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| # ? May 17, 2024 00:13 |
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Bondematt posted:First: Sounds like it's running rich Hmm. Ok. I really need to learn about the basics of how carbs, timing etc work on bikes of this vintage. The mechanic had to adjust the fuel/air mixture to get the bike to idle when cold, but now the the drat thing won't idle while warmed up.  quote:Third: How high is the RPM(IE slow, fast, I can hear my valves flapping)? I've had a bike running one cylinder feel exactly like this. It's quite high - it's near where I would normally shift up (but not quite), which makes me think this might be some sort of weird engineering "feature" like disengaging the transmission after a certain rev limit. This thing did have a sidecar once upon a time, and does have a reverse gear. EDIT: the internets tell me that the carbs on my bike (k65s) came from the factory with a rev limiter. Apparently it was there to help the new owner respect the engine break in period. I wonder if it's still in my 37 year old bikes carbs.
Backov fucked around with this message at 14:52 on May 15, 2011 |
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May 15, 2011 14:23
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