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What work does a manual cam chain tensioner require on my end? In terms of regular inspection and adjustment, what if anything do I need to do to it, and how often?
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May 15, 2011 19:28
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Backov posted:Ok, so I've had my Dnepr out a few times now, and of course it still has issues. Difficulty finding neutral, try tightening the clutch adjustment just a little bit. And as for the "rev limit", you say that Backov posted:It's almost like after it hits that RPM it shifts into neutral. Do you mean that it starts revving to the moon, because if so that sounds like its jumping out of gear, could be worn or bent shifter forks, or worn dogs or dog holes.
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May 16, 2011 00:30
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He's hitting an RPM ceiling, as he mentioned it might be a rev limiter on his carbs.
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May 16, 2011 00:35
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Synonamess Botch posted:What work does a manual cam chain tensioner require on my end? In terms of regular inspection and adjustment, what if anything do I need to do to it, and how often? If the cam chain starts rattling, turn the adjuster in till it stops.
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May 16, 2011 01:25
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2ndclasscitizen posted:If the cam chain starts rattling, turn the adjuster in till it stops. Wow I didn't think it was that simple. Never learn until you ask though. Thanks!
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May 16, 2011 01:51
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What would make a fuel injected bike run rich?
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May 16, 2011 02:59
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Dirty air filter most likely.
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May 16, 2011 03:17
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Difficulty finding neutral, try tightening the clutch adjustment just a little bit. It does feel a bit like that. Basically it loses power completely and iirc does rev like it's in neutral. The odd thing though is that clutching and shifting up puts me in the next highest gear, not 2nd. I had a bike that would occasionally just drop from 2nd to neutral, this isn't like that.
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May 16, 2011 05:18
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Has anybody got any tips for keeping the aluminium parts of a bike free of powdery corrosion? At the moment my bike is kept outside under a cover, but where I live gets a lot of rain and I guess the air becomes very humid after a lot of rain, meaning that even with a cover, the air under there is moist. Consequently I'm getting a bit of surface rust on my forks wherever stones etc. have made otherwise unnoticeable pits in the plating, and any unpainted aluminium on the engine etc. is powdery as hell. I plan to brush the aluminium bits with a copper bristled brush, but after that is there anything I can use to stop this happening in future which doesn't change the appearance of the metal?
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May 16, 2011 08:36
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Has anybody got any tips for keeping the aluminium parts of a bike free of powdery corrosion? At the moment my bike is kept outside under a cover, but where I live gets a lot of rain and I guess the air becomes very humid after a lot of rain, meaning that even with a cover, the air under there is moist. Consequently I'm getting a bit of surface rust on my forks wherever stones etc. have made otherwise unnoticeable pits in the plating, and any unpainted aluminium on the engine etc. is powdery as hell. You can try something like Scotoiler FS365. It helps, but basically your options are (i) be poo poo and ride only on bone-dry days in mid-summer for short periods, followed by hours of cleaning and investing in a climate-controlled garage, (ii) paint them (not the fork sliders obivously); or (iii) sell it and buy a bike without any polished or bare ally surfaces.
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May 16, 2011 11:30
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Ammanas posted:What would make a fuel injected bike run rich? Are you getting any error lights? As Uncle Ivan said; dirty air filter would be the first thing to check, could also be one of the following: leaky injector some sort of ECU fault (try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset) or even a hosed Lambda probe or other sensor. Injection is wonderful until it's not  Here4DaGangBang posted:Has anybody got any tips for keeping the aluminium parts of a bike free of powdery corrosion? There are anti-corrosion waxes for this very purpose, I've always preferred just leaving a layer of oily grime over everything though...
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May 16, 2011 11:51
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Saga posted:You can try something like Scotoiler FS365. It helps, but basically your options are (i) be poo poo and ride only on bone-dry days in mid-summer for short periods, followed by hours of cleaning and investing in a climate-controlled garage, (ii) paint them (not the fork sliders obivously); or (iii) sell it and buy a bike without any polished or bare ally surfaces. I'm not expecting to keep the bike in showroom condition all the time or anything, it's just that the corrosion is really quite pronounced, every exposed aluminium part has a substantial dusting on it. I just wanted to get it all tidied up and hopefully just prolong its good looks as long as possible. I'll be moving in two weeks and will have an undercover garage space for it then, so hopefully after that it will cease to be an issue. The bike getting wet on a ride isn't an issue, I think the real problem comes when the bike is either in the rain for days at a time when parked uncovered, or when it's under the cover and the air is extremely humid anyway.
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May 16, 2011 14:55
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I noticed that starting in '06 most bikes dropped HP across the board. I presume that was because of tighter emissions requirements. Would removing the catalytic converter (if legal in your locality) restore the horsepower and fuel efficiency?
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May 17, 2011 03:08
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xd posted:I noticed that starting in '06 most bikes dropped HP across the board. I presume that was because of tighter emissions requirements. Would removing the catalytic converter (if legal in your locality) restore the horsepower and fuel efficiency? You need to fix the fueling as well, which requires dyno time and a proper tune, not just "oh the latest map off of the powercommander site" or whatever.
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May 17, 2011 03:41
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Isn't that around the time the government changed the way HP was calculated? I remember a lot of cars losing HP around the same time.
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May 17, 2011 06:51
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Uthor posted:Isn't that around the time the government changed the way HP was calculated? I remember a lot of cars losing HP around the same time. I think youre thinking mpg not hp.
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May 17, 2011 07:35
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Russian Bear posted:I think youre thinking mpg not hp. Hmm, maybe. For some reason I recall hearing about the Civic Si that came out in 2006 making slightly under 200 hp instead of slightly over because of some change in standard of how it was measured. Didn't see anything Googling to confirm, though "horsepower" and "calculation" just comes up HP calculators. EDIT: Found something! quote:An even 200 was the planned horsepower rating, but the new SAE ratings system cut that number back to 197 hp at 7,800 rpm. EDIT2: And this led to Wikipedia: https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Horsepower#SAE_certified_power Uthor fucked around with this message at 08:01 on May 17, 2011 |
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May 17, 2011 07:56
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Yeah, the manufacturers published specs changed around that time, but I also saw the change on dyno charts in independent magazine reviews as well. That was also around the same time that stock exhausts changed from the cylinder to that weird alien trumpet style you see now. I know this is a lot of speculation on my part, but you can check the government's mpg website and see fuel economy in the same model of car has dropped consistently in recent years beginning in '05.
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May 17, 2011 15:25
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Z3n posted:You need to fix the fueling as well, which requires dyno time and a proper tune, not just "oh the latest map off of the powercommander site" or whatever. On a street bike, if the engine is tuned real lean to meet EPA requirements, throwing more fuel at it with a canned map can go a long way when it comes to your butt-dyno. Of course, the butt-dyno doesn't deliver race-ready results.
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May 17, 2011 16:18
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clutchpuck posted:On a street bike, if the engine is tuned real lean to meet EPA requirements, throwing more fuel at it with a canned map can go a long way when it comes to your butt-dyno. Throwing some fuel at it is a good idea in many cases. The problem is that sometimes the canned maps are WAY off. The one for my GSX-R was so bad the bike wouldn't rev to redline, instead it'd bog like crazy. You're trusting your bike's mapping to god only knows who, and then you've got the differences between bikes there too...if you're going to do it, get it done right and get a map made for your bike. Trying to save money by not getting a proper tune is just going to end in worse gas mileage and potential super lean/rich conditions. Every bike, filter, exhaust, etc is a little different, and it looks like the map that I tried to use was made on a bike that had a HUGE air leak so they ran it stupid rich to try and compensate. Thankfully, it's easy to try and modify canned maps, and there are some cases where canned maps work out just fine...but I'd still really, really encourage getting a proper map made. This is the downside to FI...there's such fine control over the fueling that just throwing values into a map can cause some really, really weird behavior.
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May 17, 2011 18:14
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So, I just got my first bike. A 2006 ninja 500. I like it a lot but for some reason I just absolutely hate the look of the seat. I cannot find a seat cowl or cover anywhere but from Airtech, and i would have to paint it i think and its pretty expensive. Id be happy with just a slip on cover that is colored or something to cover the back passenger side of the seat.
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May 17, 2011 20:05
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Save the money for buying a 2nd bike that you like the looks of. A Ninja 500 is a turd that cannot be polished.
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May 17, 2011 20:23
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n8r posted:Save the money for buying a 2nd bike that you like the looks of. A Ninja 500 is a turd that cannot be polished. yeah thats what i figured  hoping i could roll it in glitter i guess.
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May 17, 2011 20:35
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Don Of The Dead posted:So, I just got my first bike. A 2006 ninja 500. I like it a lot but for some reason I just absolutely hate the look of the seat. I cannot find a seat cowl or cover anywhere but from Airtech, and i would have to paint it i think and its pretty expensive. Id be happy with just a slip on cover that is colored or something to cover the back passenger side of the seat. If you want a comfortable seat Corbin is the only choice. I think they only make the 2 person one though. The 500 is great for commuting, but it is the bare essentials a bike can be. Pretty good learners bike, as they come dirt cheap. Oh gently caress that, roll it in glitter and put flames or something on it.
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May 17, 2011 20:54
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yessss
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May 17, 2011 21:35
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Any advice for reviving a bike from storage? I've come into a 2004 Suzuki VS1400 that hasn't had the key turned in 3 years, I think. I changed the oil for the owner in '08 before it was put away. I've got it in my garage (mine now) and coming up on a decent chunk of free time where I'd like to have it running soon. I live in Minnesota so we only get like 3 weeks before the snow drifts exceed saddle height. Cosmetically it is in good shape. It did not have a cover on it in the storage bin, but it really just looks dusty/dirty, not much rust. Tires: pressure is low but not flat; tread looks ok. I sort of recall brakes on the Intruders being loud and needing frequent pad replacement. I bought a new battery today and figured I would change the oil asap, but I am used to running an engine a short while before jumping into a change. I don't know if it is cool to just try and start it, burn all the old gas out, or what. I am NOT a gear-head. The bike came with a Clymer's so that's my bible for the next few days, I'd guess.
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May 17, 2011 22:18
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You can change the oil without running the engine. Fill it to the top fill line when you change it through, to make sure you have enough once the oil circulates through the engine again. I'd probably run a flush change with cheap oil first, and then use the higher quality stuff. You're going to need to clean the carbs as well. I'd also flush out the brake fluid. Figure a replacement chain, and new tires too, age is going to have taken it's toll, especially if it's an unheated storage unit. Do not run the bike without draining the tank and putting in a full tank of fresh gas. Drain the float bowls and the fuel lines if you can, as well, and you might get lucky and it'll fire right up after you dump the old gas. I'd probably also pull and replace the spark plugs, or at the very least, check them to make sure the cylinders haven't filled with gas. If you turned the fuel off and ran it until it stalled before it went into storage, you might be able to get away with just fresh gas, oil, and a battery to get it running. Edit: Oh yeah, take it slow and ask lots of questions if you have them. Better to ask questions then to end up with a snapped bolt or breaking something because you didn't know what you were doing. Make a thread when you start tearing into it with any questions 
Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:00 on May 17, 2011 |
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May 17, 2011 22:41
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Drain the float bowls if that didn't happen before it went into storage. Manual should tell you how. Replace fuel. Inflate tires. New hydraulic fluid. Inspect periodic maintenance items. Manual should cover all of this. Definitely change the oil. Starting it with the old oil probably won't make it explode but just run it till its warm and change it asap. It would be a good idea to change out the coolant, too, if its liquid cooled. The only thing that would really worry me based on your description are the tires. Dry, brittle, old tires can be unsafe, regardless of tread status. Battery may be weak as well if it's been hooked up to the bike in storage for 3 years. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 22:49 on May 17, 2011 |
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May 17, 2011 22:46
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Thanks! I bought new plugs today when I got the battery. Figured that was a cheap and easy fix. Electrical systems are fun for me... hydraulics have always been like voodoo (like plumbing. Forget plumbing). Sounds like I need to put more time into this than a casual evening. I am leaving town for a couple of weeks but back in early June when I have several days to tear into it. I'll start a thread then. But here's a stupid question: Closest place I can get bike maintenance or tires is about a 15 minute drive away. I don't own a truck. I don't know anybody with a truck. Any advice for getting new tires w/o riding it to a shop? Just do everything I can, then ride it granny-slow, hope I don't have a rear blow-out, and tell them to check out everything I've done while they're putting new tires on?
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May 17, 2011 23:35
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I have a lift for my bike, so I jack it up, take the wheels off, and bring them to the shop. Saves me about $100 per pair that way, too.
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May 18, 2011 00:22
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clutchpuck posted:I have a lift for my bike, so I jack it up, take the wheels off, and bring them to the shop. Saves me about $100 per pair that way, too. This, also when I was younger and didn't have a lift I just put my bike on whatever I had laying around... bricks, books, speakers, you name it.
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May 18, 2011 01:05
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The throttle on my 2005 F4i is taking it's sweet time snapping back to closed. The service manual says "lube the cable, unless it's nylon-lined" and now I'm kinda confused. Also, some friends said that you can use some chain lubes for cables?! That seems like it wouldn't end well, but then again, I have no idea. Where should I start to figure out whether it's a cable binding, or the bar end, or something else?
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May 18, 2011 03:45
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I thought white lithium grease was used to lube cables. It can also be used for chains, but most people use a chain specific lube.
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May 18, 2011 04:05
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Can anyone post a good picture or two of a heat shield they made for their exhaust? I am trying to find good examples for my DR350. I went by a welder today but he wasn't really sure the best way. I would like something I can use off road. I need to keep my bag off it. I am kicking around a couple of ideas but advice/help would be awesome.
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May 18, 2011 04:22
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Frances B Cat posted:The throttle on my 2005 F4i is taking it's sweet time snapping back to closed. The service manual says "lube the cable, unless it's nylon-lined" and now I'm kinda confused. Also, some friends said that you can use some chain lubes for cables?! That seems like it wouldn't end well, but then again, I have no idea. My manual calls for lithium grease or motor oil. I use 10w40 and it works a-ok.
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May 18, 2011 17:00
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I've just used cable lube. Seems to work great.
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May 18, 2011 18:56
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Don Of The Dead posted:So, I just got my first bike. A 2006 ninja 500. I like it a lot but for some reason I just absolutely hate the look of the seat. I cannot find a seat cowl or cover anywhere but from Airtech, and i would have to paint it i think and its pretty expensive. Id be happy with just a slip on cover that is colored or something to cover the back passenger side of the seat. I put a bungee cargo net on mine, over the passenger seat and attached to the cargo net points of the bike. I think it improved the looks of the 500R, you should try it.
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May 18, 2011 18:59
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I was gonna post exactly that but I thought it came off too smarmy The cargo net is the best accessory I think I've bought for the vstar.
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May 18, 2011 19:17
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I'm looking for some ideas for a replacement gauge cluster for an er-6n. I'm going to replace the ugly as gently caress headlight with a Yamaha MT-03 headlight like the following article: http://www.thebikergene.com/custom-bikes/lsl-goes-all-supermoto-style-on-the-kawasaki-er-6n/ But I don't want to keep the factory gauge cluster. I found a couple of third parties that make clusters that seem like they would work: http://trailtech.net/indicator_dashboards.html http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/ Specifically the DB-01R SPEEDOMETER when it's available. I want something small to try to fit between the handlebars and the light. Maybe even another bikes gauge cluster? Thoughts?
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May 19, 2011 01:26
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clutchpuck posted:I was gonna post exactly that but I thought it came off too smarmy How have I never seen this before? Brilliant, and less than 10 bucks. I'm going to get one just for the convenience.
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May 19, 2011 01:45
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