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Numinous posted:I'm looking for some ideas for a replacement gauge cluster for an er-6n. I'm going to replace the ugly as gently caress headlight with a Yamaha MT-03 headlight like the following article: Trailtech stuff is tried and true, that's what I'd go with.
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May 19, 2011 01:58
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I have a cargo net that I got for free that I have never used because though I have a couple spots for attachment it doesn't really fit the tail very well 
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May 19, 2011 02:52
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This Bandit 1200 is my daily driver now. I work construction, and park on construction sites. Where I'm working now has a lot of very sandy areas and lots of soft dirt. The bandit is not a dirt bike. It's not even a supermoto. It's got Z-rated grippy Pilots on it. Should I worry about roostertails? How scared should I be about dumping the thing? The pegs are pretty far back, so I can't get what I consider a decent riding-in-the-dirt stance, and the luggage full of tools on the tail doesn't help any. TL;DR: Suggestions for offroading Bandit 1200 with luggage?
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May 19, 2011 03:05
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:The bandit is not a dirt bike. It's not even a supermoto. It's got Z-rated grippy Pilots on it. Should I worry about roostertails? How scared should I be about dumping the thing? The pegs are pretty far back, so I can't get what I consider a decent riding-in-the-dirt stance, and the luggage full of tools on the tail doesn't help any. Just stand up on the pegs and keep the gas on. Be a bit anal about cleaning it to make sure sand doesn't get in where it shouldn't (particularly the chain).
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May 19, 2011 03:20
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:This Bandit 1200 is my daily driver now. I work construction, and park on construction sites. Where I'm working now has a lot of very sandy areas and lots of soft dirt. Stick with the rear brake and don't go quick enough to need to countersteer. That said, 3rd gear rolling burnouts are fun. 
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May 19, 2011 03:25
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Its a matter of finding the right speed, not so fast that you tank slap it off road, but not so slow that it just wallows and tips. Also as mentioned, stand up on the pegs. My bandit 12 has seen some time offroad and its totally manageable despite its size.
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May 19, 2011 03:45
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Ribsauce posted:Can anyone post a good picture or two of a heat shield they made for their exhaust? I am trying to find good examples for my DR350. I went by a welder today but he wasn't really sure the best way. I would like something I can use off road. I need to keep my bag off it. I am kicking around a couple of ideas but advice/help would be awesome. I use Oatey 9x12" fabric heat shields that are sold at Home Depot to protect against solder splatter. They're a little pricey, and a welding supply place may have carbon welding blanket that you can use, but YMMV. Put it under a side panel or directly on the exhaust using 3M spray glue and cover the exposed side with aluminum foil (again, use spray glue). It'll smoke as the glue roasts the first time you start it, but should keep things "warm" rather than "oh god my bags are on fire."
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May 19, 2011 06:01
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Numinous posted:I'm looking for some ideas for a replacement gauge cluster for an er-6n. I'm going to replace the ugly as gently caress headlight with a Yamaha MT-03 headlight like the following article: Not having the stock gauges is going to remove your odometer I'd guess? Good luck selling the bike with something that isn't the stock gauges. People will just think the bike has a million miles. Seems like a lot of cash to spend on such a superficial modification.
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May 19, 2011 06:40
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Ribsauce posted:Can anyone post a good picture or two of a heat shield they made for their exhaust? I am trying to find good examples for my DR350. I went by a welder today but he wasn't really sure the best way. I would like something I can use off road. I need to keep my bag off it. I am kicking around a couple of ideas but advice/help would be awesome. I did it myself out of some trash  more:http://imgur.com/a/jDz8K but it isn't really that great.
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May 19, 2011 10:44
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Would any of you proud, rugged, handsome mastodonic-penised Americans be willing to post some OEM KTM parts to me in the UK if I get it sent to you (and cover the shipping of course)? Your prices are nearly half what we pay in some cases, and baby wants a new flatslide...
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May 19, 2011 13:51
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KTM parts? At MY doorstep? Tell me more! (in PM)
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May 19, 2011 14:32
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Same. I know spiff is traveling the world right now but I'm a homebody with nothing better to do than reship poo poo and post on the internet.
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May 19, 2011 15:27
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I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this cover, a Dowco Guardian WeatherAll Plus, http://www.amazon.com/Dowco-50002-02-Guardian-WeatherAll-Motorcycle/dp/B0022UP9V6/ Any idea if a Medium or Large would be better for my Bonneville?
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May 19, 2011 15:43
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ReelBigLizard posted:Would any of you proud, rugged, handsome mastodonic-penised Americans be willing to post some OEM KTM parts to me in the UK if I get it sent to you (and cover the shipping of course)? Have you checked with bikebandit.com? They sell OEM parts and ship worldwide. Don't know if the pricing will still be in your favour, but worth checking.
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May 19, 2011 16:42
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Carb question. Bike is a DRZ400. Carb on the right is supposedly stock. Carb on the left is the one that came with the motor in the bike. Not pictured is the carb on the bike. What a nightmare. Am I right that what I have circled in red is a fuel line? What for? Consequently what will be effected if I block off that line like on the stock carb (as my petcock only has one fuel line coming out of it)? Alternatively.. I don't know what the alternative would be. I can give more backstory but it really is just incredibly stupid. p.s. I drew a dick 
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May 19, 2011 21:10
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ChiTownEddie posted:I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this cover, a Dowco Guardian WeatherAll Plus, http://www.amazon.com/Dowco-50002-02-Guardian-WeatherAll-Motorcycle/dp/B0022UP9V6/ Walmart sells a cheap cover that is decidedly "good enough" and solves the sizing issue.
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May 19, 2011 21:27
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Synonamess Botch posted:Carb question. Bike is a DRZ400. Carb on the right is supposedly stock. Carb on the left is the one that came with the motor in the bike. Not pictured is the carb on the bike. What a nightmare. I'll answer this because, yaknow, dicks. Anyways. The line there is a vacuum line to actuate the vacuum petcock that comes stock on the DRZ. You can block it off if you're not running a vacuum petcock or you want to run it on prime all the time. Fuel goes into the 90 degree tubing on the lower right hand side of the carb in the pictures. I can just about guarantee that the carb on the right was run with an aftermarket tank with no vacuum petcock, by the blocked petcock port and the shaved down choke plunger for clearance on the bigger tank. Z3n fucked around with this message at 21:33 on May 19, 2011 |
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May 19, 2011 21:31
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OK, that explains a lot. I never had a stock petcock hence my confusion. Once again I appreciate it. You may be happy to know the bike is back together and running, but bogging down on WOT. I'm going to try this other carb here and fix a couple other niggles and I should be back on the road yaaay
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May 19, 2011 21:40
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Synonamess Botch posted:OK, that explains a lot. I never had a stock petcock hence my confusion. Once again I appreciate it. You may be happy to know the bike is back together and running, but bogging down on WOT. I'm going to try this other carb here and fix a couple other niggles and I should be back on the road yaaay Cool! I'd bet that the slide diaphragm on the carb is ripped or seated incorrectly, if everything is pretty much stock on the bike. The new carb might sort it out, if it doesn't, I'd be looking at fuel delivery issues.
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May 19, 2011 21:46
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MotoMind posted:Walmart sells a cheap cover that is decidedly "good enough" and solves the sizing issue. Touche good sir. I guess that means I can buy tons of useless things with my amazon credit, huzzah.
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May 19, 2011 22:09
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I took my bike in to my mechanic for some the fork seals to be replaced and had the oil changed (I'm a scrub  ) about a month ago and today I noticed that on the bottom side of the engine it is dripping a little bit of oil. If I let it sit for 1-2 minutes it only drips about 2-3 drops or so. Does anyone know what this might be? The bike is an '86 Honda CB450SC.
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May 19, 2011 22:13
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You need to figure out the source of your oil leak before you can do anything about it. Follow it to its origin.
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May 19, 2011 22:20
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Agrias120 posted:I took my bike in to my mechanic for some the fork seals to be replaced and had the oil changed (I'm a scrub Probably the drain plug, either not torqued properly or reused a non-reusable crush washer. Just crawl under and have a look.
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May 19, 2011 22:39
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Well now what the gently caress? I put the bike away last winter without issue. Took it for a couple sprints around the block this spring but nothing at all special. Today it idles rough unless I adjust the idle-knob. Play with it for a few minutes, take it for a ride to the gas station, feathering it all the way. Fill it up, come back, big pool of gas where I'd been tinkering with it, notice a small drip from dead center under the frame. I haven't had a chance to even look at it yet, but what the hell? Gas line loose? Engine leaking gas for no reason? Who knows. The joy of ownership. edit: And now it's sat for about 35 minutes after its ride and there's not a loving drop of gasoline under it in the garage. There's still a big puddle out where I was loving with the throttle and idle-knob. Way more than there should be, but it's not leaking. Cool. Now I get to guess how much gas it can leak when fully choked as opposed to ... I don't know what. Smug Guy fucked around with this message at 23:47 on May 19, 2011 |
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May 19, 2011 23:40
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I would immediately suspect a leak from one of the carburetors, possibly a stuck float. Firmly tap the float bowls with the blunt end of a screw driver and see if it will un-stick and stop leaking. Did you drain or run the float bowls dry before you stopped riding for the season? It can be pretty common for them to get gummed with varnish if you did not.
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May 19, 2011 23:46
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The girlfriend's SV650 seems to have an issue with the battery. It's apparently too weak to start up the bike. This first happened 2 weeks ago - the bike started attempting a a couple cycles without success and then the bike started start emitting a nnnnnnnnn noise as the oil/neutral/etc lights flickered madly. I then put it on a tender and charged it fully. It started up perfectly after that. Then yesterday, after around 4 days of not riding it, it does the same poo poo. Does this indicate a dying battery?
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May 19, 2011 23:47
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clutchpuck posted:I would immediately suspect a leak from one of the carburetors, possibly a stuck float. Firmly tap the float bowls with the blunt end of a screw driver and see if it will un-stick and stop leaking. That would make a lot of sense. I hate to sound like an idiot here, but can I get out of this without manually cleaning the carbs? If I can dump some seafoam in there or just run it until it's clean will that suffice, or do I need to bust it down?
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May 19, 2011 23:50
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clutchpuck posted:I would immediately suspect a leak from one of the carburetors, possibly a stuck float. Firmly tap the float bowls with the blunt end of a screw driver and see if it will un-stick and stop leaking. Another thing that worked for me with a stuck float was turning the petcock off and then letting it run at medium rpms till it dies, I'm not sure how or why this would work but it did, i dont even know where on the internet I read about this "method"  I didn'clean the carb after that and the problem never came back.
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May 19, 2011 23:51
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Ola posted:Have you checked with bikebandit.com? They sell OEM parts and ship worldwide. Don't know if the pricing will still be in your favour, but worth checking. The parts I want are KTM dealer 'Special Order'. Like, Cyril-Despres-uses-it Special Edit: Well gently caress me sideways they stock the special bits too... pricing isn't fantastic but I'll keep them in mind. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 00:08 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 00:02
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niethan posted:Another thing that worked for me with a stuck float was turning the petcock off and then letting it run at medium rpms till it dies, I'm not sure how or why this would work but it did, i dont even know where on the internet I read about this "method" It works because when you completely drain the floats, the additional movement of the floats (because the floats aren't floating on the gas anymore) can get grime or dirt out of the float valves. Smug Guy posted:I did not, and while I treated the gas before storage, I suspect it was too late. So... You could, potentially. Try sea foam and a LOT of full throttle, the more gas you can get rolling through there the better the seafoam can work. I've seen it work before. I'd also try and get as much fresh gas in there as possible, fresh gas can be the difference between running like crap and running great. the walkin dude posted:The girlfriend's SV650 seems to have an issue with the battery. It's apparently too weak to start up the bike. This first happened 2 weeks ago - the bike started attempting a a couple cycles without success and then the bike started start emitting a nnnnnnnnn noise as the oil/neutral/etc lights flickered madly. I then put it on a tender and charged it fully. It started up perfectly after that. Then yesterday, after around 4 days of not riding it, it does the same poo poo. It does sound like a dying battery, the real question is why is the battery dying? Age is one possibility, the other is a problem with the charging system. Get the battery tested, charge it fully if it's still good, and then check that you're getting ~14v at the battery terminals with the bike reved to about 5k. Battery MUST be verified to be in good condition before you can do this test, otherwise the results are useless. ReelBigLizard posted:The parts I want are KTM dealer 'Special Order'. What are you planning, come on 
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May 20, 2011 00:19
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Z3n posted:What are you planning, come on I've had enough with the 690 EFI and the nuclear furnace that is the catalytic exhaust. I'm not sure what route I'm going to take yet but I know I want to fit the black SC Project can and preferably remove the air box for a pod filter. Possible solutions: Cheapest/easiest: Exhaust, pod filter, memjet piggyback unit and maybe the G2 throttle tube. Pro: will have money to spare for other things, like my money-hole of a boat, which is also my money-hole of a home now. Con: may not improve things dramatically, don't like the idea of piggyback units, would rather fix it right the first time. Cost: less than £500 Very hard, more expensive: Exhaust, pod filter, Keihin FCR, fuel pump and CDI unit from the factory Dakar 690 Pro: Dependability, easier to tweak and modify, much smoother delivery at low speeds (a big plus where I live) Con: A shitload of work, another thing to add to the maint schedule, a small step down in performance from the EFI £700-850ish Not as Hard, more expensive still: Exhaust, pod filter, Vortex replacement ECU @ around 700AUD. Pro: all the benefits of the EFI, none of the shortcomings, job done properly Con: any other mods and tweaks and I need to re-flash the replacement ECU, manufacturer in Aus, reflash kit/software is another 700+AUD Cost: £550-1200ish
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May 20, 2011 00:41
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Ola posted:Have you checked with bikebandit.com? They sell OEM parts and ship worldwide. Don't know if the pricing will still be in your favour, but worth checking. Their shipping prices are ridiculous. They wanted over $100 to send a chain + sprocket kit to Australia.
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May 20, 2011 00:48
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I've been heavily researching this sort of thing recently, mainly because I want to boost the low and midrange of the bike. I'm leaning towards picking up an LM-2 Tuning/Datalogging kit, and pairing that with the TuneECU software to tune the stock ECU. Then I'll slap it on a dyno and make sure everything has come out ok. Then I just get to waste a bunch of time dicking around! Either way, looking forward to seeing what you decide to end up doing
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May 20, 2011 00:49
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BlackMK4 posted:Stick with the rear brake and don't go quick enough to need to countersteer. That said, 3rd gear rolling burnouts are fun. This. Phat_Albert posted:Its a matter of finding the right speed, not so fast that you tank slap it off road, but not so slow that it just wallows and tips. Also as mentioned, stand up on the pegs. My bandit 12 has seen some time offroad and its totally manageable despite its size. Meant fun times at work, good roostertail, and not worrying about laying the thing down. I like keeping the throttle steady and using the back brake to control wheel speed. 3rd gear out of the power band makes it possible.
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May 20, 2011 00:56
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Z3n posted:You could, potentially. Try sea foam and a LOT of full throttle, the more gas you can get rolling through there the better the seafoam can work. I've seen it work before. I'd also try and get as much fresh gas in there as possible, fresh gas can be the difference between running like crap and running great. Dammit, I hope that's the case. She was clean as a whistle prior to this last winter and ran perfectly. I put Stabil in the tank but I don't think I ran it long enough to get it into the carbs. In my "ran it to the gas station" description, I held it pretty wide open and refilled the tank with high-octane and kept it going to feed the fresh stuff as long as I could. Hopefully that'll help. I'll feed it some sea foam and regular gas and see what happens I guess. I hate to hear that the carbs might just be plugged though.
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May 20, 2011 02:39
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I need to replace the now-damaged frame sliders that were put on by a previous owner. The problem is they seem to have been torqued by the hand of God. I stuck my socket and ratchet on there and stood on the handle with my foot. I tried stomping on the handle. I weigh about 170lbs. The bolt wouldn't budge. Should I go buy a long metal pipe to use as a lever arm? Am I going to break my ratchet?
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May 20, 2011 03:27
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SykoFreak posted:I need to replace the now-damaged frame sliders that were put on by a previous owner. The problem is they seem to have been torqued by the hand of God. I stuck my socket and ratchet on there and stood on the handle with my foot. I tried stomping on the handle. I weigh about 170lbs. The bolt wouldn't budge. Should I go buy a long metal pipe to use as a lever arm? Am I going to break my ratchet? Impact driver?
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May 20, 2011 04:44
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SykoFreak posted:I need to replace the now-damaged frame sliders that were put on by a previous owner. The problem is they seem to have been torqued by the hand of God. I stuck my socket and ratchet on there and stood on the handle with my foot. I tried stomping on the handle. I weigh about 170lbs. The bolt wouldn't budge. Should I go buy a long metal pipe to use as a lever arm? Am I going to break my ratchet? I don't think so. I've broken one but I was smacking the hell out of it with a sledge. You should really have a breaker bar for this sort of thing regardless. Also if you have a floor jack, the handles on them will save you a trip to buy pipe.
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May 20, 2011 05:09
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Buy a breaker bar or you'll break your wrench.
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May 20, 2011 05:49
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I googled breaker bar. I wasn't really aware that such a tool existed. I'll go buy one.
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May 20, 2011 05:51
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