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Any ideas on why my DRZ SM will crank for about a minute thirty (until the dying battery runs out of juice) with no luck starting but will bump start the first time every time? Its getting to the point where I just go straight to the bump start in the morning. Need a drat kick starter.
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May 20, 2011 06:51
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SykoFreak posted:I googled breaker bar. I wasn't really aware that such a tool existed. I'll go buy one. If you're saying the crash protectors have been damaged by impact, you may have a bent mounting bolt or engine mount. But yeah, a big-rear end breaker bar. Non-sarcastic query, do you own a torque wrench?
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May 20, 2011 09:06
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Z3n posted:LM-2.. ...TuneECU I had forgotten about TuneECU, looks like the 690 LC4 side of things has been expanded since I last looked. I'll add that to the list too, then. I was going to get a wide-band lambda and an LM-2 no matter what I did. EDIT: found this http://www.motopabst.eu/artikel.php?ad=14940 
ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:11 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 09:08
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henne posted:Any ideas on why my DRZ SM will crank for about a minute thirty (until the dying battery runs out of juice) with no luck starting but will bump start the first time every time? Its getting to the point where I just go straight to the bump start in the morning. Need a drat kick starter. Did it suddenly stop working or did starting get progressively harder? I'd go with a weak battery, tight or sticking valve(s) or a combination of two to start with.
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May 20, 2011 12:37
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Saga posted:If you're saying the crash protectors have been damaged by impact, you may have a bent mounting bolt or engine mount. I think the mounting bolt and engine mount are fine. It was a 10mph low side. What's a good way to tell though? I do not own a torque wrench.
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May 20, 2011 14:42
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ReelBigLizard posted:I had forgotten about TuneECU, looks like the 690 LC4 side of things has been expanded since I last looked. I'll add that to the list too, then. That kit is stupid expensive over here, why is it so cheap over there?  TuneECU looks like it could do everything that you needed, especially if you're already getting an LM2. It's not going to be as precise as a proper setup, but I like the idea of getting real world settings. My only question is going to be if you can somehow hook it up to get TPS readings, because if you can output TPS vs. RPM vs. A/F, there's no need for any other tuning. henne, seconding the need for a valve check. Mileage on the bike/last time they were checked?
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May 20, 2011 15:56
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Z3n posted:
Do I need to grab a multimeter for that?
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May 20, 2011 15:59
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SykoFreak posted:I think the mounting bolt and engine mount are fine. It was a 10mph low side. What's a good way to tell though? Well, it's going to come off anyway so it's not really worth worrying about. It was just a statement of the obvious really. Pay no attention! A torque wrench is quite useful for bikes. Lots of mission critical poo poo likes to vibrate off. One with an appropriate middling range of values (so, not for doing up fairing fasteners or your rear axle nut, but everything in between) is quite useful to avoid that, also helps to prevent stuff snapping off and tears before bedtime. I recommend getting one when you pick up that breaker bar.
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May 20, 2011 16:33
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quote:My only question is going to be if you can somehow hook it up to get TPS readings, because if you can output TPS vs. RPM vs. A/F, there's no need for any other tuning. LM-2 has fully programmable analog inputs, so that should be a piece of piss. Z3n posted:That kit is stupid expensive over here, why is it so cheap over there? I'll ship you cheap stuff if you ship me cheap stuff? the walkin dude posted:Do I need to grab a multimeter for that? Yes, you don't need a fancy one and they are essential for MC troubleshooting.
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May 20, 2011 16:41
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Whatever you do, don't use one of the bigger torque wrenches for bolts under 20ft/lbs. Basically the less ft/lbs the lighter the "click" will be that lets you know you've reached it. Past a certain point you won't feel anything and over-torque the poo poo out of a bolt you could have done better by hand. Ask me how I know.
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May 20, 2011 16:56
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Gnaghi posted:Whatever you do, don't use one of the bigger torque wrenches for bolts under 20ft/lbs. Basically the less ft/lbs the lighter the "click" will be that lets you know you've reached it. Past a certain point you won't feel anything and over-torque the poo poo out of a bolt you could have done better by hand. Ask me how I know. Seconding this so hard the advice snaps. 
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May 20, 2011 17:11
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Yeah poo poo sucks but there is hope.
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May 20, 2011 17:36
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You want to be in the middle range of your torque wrench, so that 5-80 pound is only really good from around 20-60 pounds. You want an inch pounds one for the small stuff, and then I use a beam type one for the big stuff.
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May 20, 2011 18:40
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Z3n posted:My only question is going to be if you can somehow hook it up to get TPS readings, because if you can output TPS vs. RPM vs. A/F, there's no need for any other tuning. This reminds me about this thing: http://www.fi2000r.com/page.php?section=28 What are the chances that this product is not complete bullshit? It claims that it auto-tunes in real-time based on crankshaft speed vs. throttle opening, and that's just how dynamometers work, so no 02 sensor needed.
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May 20, 2011 18:58
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I was looking at that fi2000r tuner earlier, but then through google searching came across some discussions about backfiring and not being able to correct it with adjustments. Isn't it supposed to correct for that automatically?
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May 20, 2011 19:21
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After dealing with Ducati tuners I found it easier just to sell my PCIII/Nemesis and have a shop reflash stock ECUs. There's a great shop in Texas that will do turn around service for like $250, and every time I've used them I've had perfect maps. My S2R has a weird exhaust/intake setup and they still knew exactly what I was asking for, so all I had to do with the new ECU was have the TPS reset and I was good. I'm sure other manufacturers have shops that do the same.
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May 20, 2011 20:07
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The fi2000 comes in a couple variations; closed loop and open loop. The open loop model looks at the o2 sensor and on that one you aren't supposed to adjust the first pot [the one that adjusts the mixture while coasting off-throttle or partial throttle]; it's supposed to figure out the settings based on the o2 feedback. Problem is, that doesn't always work the best, and you can gain more tuning flexibility by either getting the closed loop model or unplugging the open loop from the o2 sensor so that it runs in closed loop mode, then you can adjust the first pot and tune out popping to a greater degree. The Vstar dudes often run the open loop model and use a resistor inline with the o2 sensor ground so it tricks the computer into thinking the bike is running lean when the computer is running in open loop, and gives it more fuel. i only run the resistor and it actually takes care of my decel popping for the most part, and eliminated low-speed throttle snatch. Cobra has a newer model of the fi2000 coming out soon that runs in closed loop only, looks at crank acceleration, and constantly attempts to remap fuel for best acceleration at a rate of 40hz. That is high on my list when they finally release it for my bike. edit: All but the last paragraph is applicable to the older non-crank-sensing fi2000 units because my reading comprehension sucks... but it may be handy info. Those older manual-tune units are like half the cost of the powrpro model.
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May 20, 2011 20:13
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chryst posted:This reminds me about this thing: http://www.fi2000r.com/page.php?section=28 Sorry, I don't really buy it. The fact that they argue that you only ever need to add fuel sets off a huge BS warning, considering that I watched the map for my GSX-R get made, watched the improvements in HP and AF, from leaning out multiple spots through the bottom, midrange, and top end. You can throw 10% more fuel across the board at something, but that's just throwing poo poo at a wall and hoping it sticks in the right places. I can see the potential for tuning based on crankshaft speed vs. throttle opening, but that seems to ignore a lot of other tuning issues. The KTM likes to run pretty rich because the fuel provides a cooling effect and without that it starts to run pretty hot, so I guess they're just trusting that their research with their preprogrammed maps will keep things safe. The LC4 is also really sensitive to proper tuning, getting it out of the proper A/F range makes the bike vibrate like crazy, and adjusting in very fine increments in certain areas is exactly why I want to do the tuning myself. Adding 10% might smooth things out in some areas but it's also going to end up running really rich in other areas where it would have been ok before you added additional fuel across the board. I wouldn't do it, personally...with the advent of the Power commander autotune, LM2s, and loads of other proper pieces of tuning equipment out there, my experience is that when you try to halfass it with tuning software, without some form of proper dyno tuning, you end up screwing yourself. The butt dyno isn't reliable enough to tell the difference between minorly lean and majorly lean. I've dumped a fair amount of money into my KTM, and if I'm gonna blow it up, I'm gonna do it right, by ignoring all the warning signs. I'll run the LM2, do some decent datalogging on it, and then adjust the maps accordingly and test again. Once it's all said and done, I'll get a proper dyno run done on it and see what it puts out.
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May 20, 2011 20:48
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ReelBigLizard posted:Did it suddenly stop working or did starting get progressively harder? Sort of sudden. Starts fine when its been ridden that day for a while. I'd be surprised if its valves as it only has 5k on it.
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May 21, 2011 03:45
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Two parter here. New bike owner and I'm having some trouble on stops/starts, especially into turns at an intersection. I just can't seem to get down the timing of clutch/brake/throttle. I feel like I need to give it a certain amount of throttle to keep it from stalling, but that makes me almost fly forward and usually end up weaving in the oncoming lane for a second before I can get back over. This is even with a minimal amount of throttle. I guess I don't know exactly how much brake I should be applying if any at the start of the turn to keep it under control. I've watched numerous videos and read a lot of online articles. Just hoping a goon could possibly give some advice that would make it click for me. Second, due in part to the previously mentioned issues and also coming to stop at a really bad spot, I dropped the bike today while turning from a dead stop. It happened so fast I can't really say what I did, but road conditions played a factor as well. Regardless, I now have a baseball sized dent in the front right corner of my fuel tank along with scratches around the edges. It's intact but I was wondering how much I'd be looking at to have it popped out and repainted. I found some replacement tanks online OEM already painted to match for about $550 but I'm assuming a repair would be cheaper even with the paint.
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May 21, 2011 04:55
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ChesterJT posted:Two parter here. New bike owner and I'm having some trouble on stops/starts, especially into turns at an intersection. I just can't seem to get down the timing of clutch/brake/throttle. I feel like I need to give it a certain amount of throttle to keep it from stalling, but that makes me almost fly forward and usually end up weaving in the oncoming lane for a second before I can get back over. This is even with a minimal amount of throttle. I guess I don't know exactly how much brake I should be applying if any at the start of the turn to keep it under control. I've watched numerous videos and read a lot of online articles. Just hoping a goon could possibly give some advice that would make it click for me. Have you taken the basic MSF course? That's exactly the sort of thing it covers.
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May 21, 2011 05:19
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ReelBigLizard posted:I had forgotten about TuneECU, looks like the 690 LC4 side of things has been expanded since I last looked. I'll add that to the list too, then. Why not just go for a TuneBoy and find a tuner with a DynoJet dyno? 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 05:34 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 05:31
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Saga posted:Well, it's going to come off anyway so it's not really worth worrying about. It was just a statement of the obvious really. Pay no attention! That bolt came off pretty easily with a 24" breaker bar. The wonders of leverage.  I didn't buy a torque wrench. Is this or this a good torque wrench?
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May 21, 2011 06:05
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Loucks posted:Have you taken the basic MSF course? That's exactly the sort of thing it covers. I'm signing up for the ABATE class here which is the same thing. But in the meantime...
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May 21, 2011 07:03
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ChesterJT posted:I'm signing up for the ABATE class here which is the same thing. But in the meantime... Don't want to sound like a dick but you should really practice this stuff in an empty parking lot. If you swerve into oncoming traffic every time you take turns, someone is going to get hurt. Most likely you. Or a pedestrian/cyclist. With that out of the way, what kind of bike do you own? I don't see how you can't control the acceleration unless you have a powerful ride. Now to get better, find an empty parking lot and practice accelerations from a standstill, in a straight line, using only your clutch lever. You'll get the feel for the friction point, which is the key to slow/smooth starts. Once that's good, start adding throttle until you get that down. Now you're ready to take turns from a standstill and here's the kicker : you don't need to brake in that particular situation. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, knowledgeable bike-goons, but I'm pretty sure this is the way I was taught. e: Looks like you already dropped it. 
internet inc fucked around with this message at 07:26 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 07:23
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internet inc posted:Don't want to sound like a dick but you should really practice this stuff in an empty parking lot. If you swerve into oncoming traffic every time you take turns, someone is going to get hurt. Most likely you. Or a pedestrian/cyclist. I was taught the same way, never used the brake in a standstill turn, just clutch control.
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May 21, 2011 07:31
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ChesterJT posted:Two parter here. New bike owner and I'm having some trouble on stops/starts, especially into turns at an intersection. I just can't seem to get down the timing of clutch/brake/throttle. I feel like I need to give it a certain amount of throttle to keep it from stalling, but that makes me almost fly forward and usually end up weaving in the oncoming lane for a second before I can get back over. This is even with a minimal amount of throttle. I guess I don't know exactly how much brake I should be applying if any at the start of the turn to keep it under control. I've watched numerous videos and read a lot of online articles. Just hoping a goon could possibly give some advice that would make it click for me. Don't repair the bike until you're done crashing it. Stop riding on the street until you're able to maintain a basic margin of safety. Even if you don't die, you'll make yourself and others miserable by continuing to fail. Find a parking lot and break up your ball of failure into distinct tasks that you can practice. Practice the clutch until you're comfortable with the friction point. You don't even need to give the bike throttle, just get it rolling off idle by gently engaging the clutch. Try again with 10% throttle. Try again modulating from 10% to 25% to accelerate from a stop. Then practice stopping in a straight line until you get a feel for braking force and tire traction. Then practice turning. Then practice accelerating while turning and turning while stopping (not really a common situation, rule is to get your stopping done in a straight line, but sometimes you need to scrub of speed so...). Also, buy a bicycle to work on your balance. Edit: Re-reading your post, are you actually saying you roll up to an intersection, stop, and then when it turns green you accelerate wildly then apply brake to make your turn? Seriously stop before you kill yourself.  Not to be an rear end, but not everything is supposed to come easy. I don't go out and try ballroom dancing before I can put one foot ahead of the other. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 07:42 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 07:35
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He's clearly training for a SMC 690.
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May 21, 2011 08:50
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1 day in a parking lot will teach you enough to put your feet on your pegs before the bike is moving and ride through any turn while staying in the clutch friction zone. Full lock turns can be tricky, I use the rear brake to balance things a bit. But weeks and weeks of traffic riding will not teach you that, on the contrary it will teach you the bad habits of whatever jerky riding you manage in dodging injury and damage to other people's property. Read about technique, practice in a place without traffic, do the course.
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May 21, 2011 09:10
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ChesterJT posted:I'm signing up for the ABATE class here which is the same thing. But in the meantime... If you can manage it try just walking in without signing up. I did the ABATE class in Indy that way on the first try.
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May 21, 2011 14:55
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I guess I should have clarified that I'm not out in traffic doing this. I live in a quiet subdivision in a very small town. I'm always wary of traffic and never attempt a turn unless both lanes are clear. My bike is a honda shadow, and thanks to everyone for the tips.
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May 21, 2011 15:32
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ChesterJT posted:Two parter here. New bike owner and I'm having some trouble on stops/starts, especially into turns at an intersection. I just can't seem to get down the timing of clutch/brake/throttle. I feel like I need to give it a certain amount of throttle to keep it from stalling, but that makes me almost fly forward and usually end up weaving in the oncoming lane for a second before I can get back over. This is even with a minimal amount of throttle. I guess I don't know exactly how much brake I should be applying if any at the start of the turn to keep it under control. I've watched numerous videos and read a lot of online articles. Just hoping a goon could possibly give some advice that would make it click for me. Are you just using your intuition to determine the right way to do things or did someone teach you how to ride? Go take the class and then read Proficient Motorcycling
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May 21, 2011 15:46
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ChesterJT posted:... I live in a quiet subdivision in a very small town. I'm always wary of traffic and never attempt a turn unless both lanes are clear... At this point you probably need to practice clutch control at speeds where you can walk the bike along. Your bike has a lubed clutch, that means you can slip it as much as you want all day long and you wont hurt it; its not like a car clutch in that regard. So use it a lot. The latter bit there about not turning if both lanes are clear is a bad habit to get yourself into and can make you a hazard on the road. Skill for riding in traffic is a large part of motorcycling. You really need to take the course ASAP because they go over a lot of stuff you need to have in your head before you get hurt.
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May 21, 2011 16:21
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Ola posted:Seconding this so hard the advice snaps. One piece of advice about Torque wrenches... make sure you note and pay attention to the difference between In/Lbs and Ft/lbs. Or, if you've got a metric bike, get in the habit of using Newton/Meters. Grab-it's and EZ-Outs work, and if they don't, a left handed titanium drill bit does. Ask me how I know.
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May 21, 2011 16:47
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ChesterJT posted:Two parter here. New bike owner and I'm having some trouble on stops/starts, especially into turns at an intersection. I just can't seem to get down the timing of clutch/brake/throttle. I feel like I need to give it a certain amount of throttle to keep it from stalling, but that makes me almost fly forward and usually end up weaving in the oncoming lane for a second before I can get back over. This is even with a minimal amount of throttle. I guess I don't know exactly how much brake I should be applying if any at the start of the turn to keep it under control. I've watched numerous videos and read a lot of online articles. Just hoping a goon could possibly give some advice that would make it click for me. You really, really, really need to take a class. Not because you're hopeless at riding or anything, and you shouldn't get discouraged over this, but you really need a set of experienced eyes to watch you and address the problems that you are having. We can't do much over the internet, and for your safety, you should hold off on riding the bike until you have gone to the class and had the basics of riding addressed. Have you driven a manual car at any point?
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May 21, 2011 17:25
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Got a flat this morning on my Vulcan 500. Found a rather nice screw in the front tire. I was able to plug it and took it to a scooter repair shop by my house who told me the plug was fine and I wouldnt need a new tire. Is it safe to ride with a plug in the front tire, or should I bite the bullet and just have it replaced. Most of my riding is around town stuff, under 60. Hoping I didnt screw up the front wheel. It looks ok, but I think I rode on it for about a mile while it was flat trying to find a safe place to pull over
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May 21, 2011 18:15
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crazyivan45 posted:It looks ok, but I think I rode on it for about a mile while it was flat trying to find a safe place to pull over I would replace it if it were me but that's really your call. When I had a blowout several months ago I replaced the tire even though it looked fine and I just lost the tube. Riding on a flat can damage a tire for sure, but you could also be fine. Ask yourself, how much is your peace of mind worth?
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May 21, 2011 18:24
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Actually answered my own question. Went outside to check on the tire and its flat again.
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May 21, 2011 18:30
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Oh, it's probably fine then, I wouldn't worry about it.
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May 21, 2011 18:35
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I was looking at getting some luggage for my fz6, specifically Givi V35 cases, and I have to say I was somewhat shocked at the $800 price tag for two bags and the mounting hardware. Does anyone have any good recommendations for cheaper luggage, or do I just have to suck it up and shell out the dough?
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May 21, 2011 18:36
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