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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Had a rash of bikes recently at the shop, no pattern between them, which were all missing a special shim between the muffler and header. Who the hell knows how something like that gets lost. Just the other day one of the guys at the shop found this and it seemed to work real well, with some added scrap metal to take up the space. Yamaha has used wire mesh ones that could be reused, but in practice won't fit once you've used them once because even if they aren't damaged, they deform and become impossible to deal with. People probably remove the can and then either lose the shim/spacer in the garage, or it's something like this that just gets thrown away.
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Jun 9, 2011 07:05
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| # ? May 16, 2024 03:12 |
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My 2000 SV650's acting up again with the battery. I bought a new battery recently because I suspected the 3 year old battery was going bad. The bike was fine for a few days then yesterday the gf went out to the bike and it refused to start and output a "NNNN" noise. Just like it did with the old battery - fine for an approximate week, then dies. I remember the previous owner saying that he suspected the bike might need a new R/R. He got a GSXR R/R as a potential replacement and hasn't slapped it in there. He said he'd be able to mail it over to me. Is this a potential reason? I plan to get a multimeter to check if the battery itself is charging. Back on the battery tender the bike goes...
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Jun 9, 2011 16:10
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the walkin dude posted:My 2000 SV650's acting up again with the battery. I bought a new battery recently because I suspected the 3 year old battery was going bad. The bike was fine for a few days then yesterday the gf went out to the bike and it refused to start and output a "NNNN" noise. Just like it did with the old battery - fine for an approximate week, then dies. Definitely a charging issue. Check the charging system with a multimeter.
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Jun 9, 2011 16:32
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How long are your rides, generally? Are you sure you're getting the revs up enough to actually be charging it?
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Jun 9, 2011 19:02
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I rev it like a bitchslapped bastard, yeah. 
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Jun 9, 2011 19:09
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Maybe you're scaring it.
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Jun 9, 2011 19:37
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I have a 2007 DRZ 400 SM, the front breaks ate starting to squeel a bit on breaking. Approaching 6k mi. on the clock. Im guessing it's getting about that time to replace them. Anyone have a recommended pad? Are the stock ones crap? Do I have to replace the rotor at the same time ?
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Jun 9, 2011 20:57
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TheDon01 posted:I have a 2007 DRZ 400 SM, the front breaks ate starting to squeel a bit on breaking. Approaching 6k mi. on the clock. Im guessing it's getting about that time to replace them. Anyone have a recommended pad? Are the stock ones crap? Do I have to replace the rotor at the same time ? Pull off the caliper and have a look, if you have less than 2mm of pad material left, you should change them. Is the disc scored or is there a noticable lip on it? If not, you don't need to replace it yet. Stainless discs generally last upward of 4-5 sets of pads before you need to replace them. The stock pads are probably fine, have you been satisfied with them so far? I've got EBC HH pads on my Bandit and I think they're great, but loads of people disagree on them.
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Jun 9, 2011 21:09
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I'd just get stock pads; I went with EBC Sintered pads on the SMC this time and while they stop well they're a bit squeaky for my liking. I'll get the Brembo OEMs next time, I think.
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Jun 9, 2011 22:17
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ReelBigLizard posted:I'd just get stock pads; I went with EBC Sintered pads on the SMC this time and while they stop well they're a bit squeaky for my liking. I'll get the Brembo OEMs next time, I think. The Brembo OEMs seem the best. Galfers got eaten up in under 2k miles on my 690, while the OEMs lasted ~6k. I've got ~1k miles on the EBC ones so far and I'm pretty happy with them, although the bike needs another fluid bleed. Z3n fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jun 9, 2011 |
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Jun 9, 2011 22:19
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ReelBigLizard posted:I'd just get stock pads; I went with EBC Sintered pads on the SMC this time and while they stop well they're a bit squeaky for my liking. Odd, mine don't squeak at all, but they do drag a bit even when not applied, enough to be audible.
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Jun 9, 2011 22:22
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the walkin dude posted:My 2000 SV650's acting up again with the battery. I bought a new battery recently because I suspected the 3 year old battery was going bad. The bike was fine for a few days then yesterday the gf went out to the bike and it refused to start and output a "NNNN" noise. Just like it did with the old battery - fine for an approximate week, then dies. Check for a bad ground as well. My SV was having battery issues, went to pull the battery and one of the crimp connections for the battery was falling apart. Fixed that and haven't had any issues since.
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Jun 9, 2011 23:17
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Uthor posted:The red stuff is probably RTV gasket sealant. Use sparingly as it gets everywhere and sticks good. Don't want any getting into your engine. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Had a rash of bikes recently at the shop, no pattern between them, which were all missing a special shim between the muffler and header. Who the hell knows how something like that gets lost. Just the other day one of the guys at the shop found this and it seemed to work real well, with some added scrap metal to take up the space.
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Jun 10, 2011 00:38
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To the guy who needs a place to store the bike. What about where you work? Is there like an office or something you can park it at/in?
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Jun 10, 2011 00:40
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I bought one of those gallon buckets of carb cleaner. Is this stuff something you can reuse a few times, or should I take it to be disposed? It's yellowish and cloudy now.
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Jun 10, 2011 03:51
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The Senator Giroux posted:I bought one of those gallon buckets of carb cleaner. Is this stuff something you can reuse a few times, or should I take it to be disposed? It's yellowish and cloudy now. Oh yeah, you can use that stuff for a pretty good while. Stuff starts coming out nastier than when it went in, time to change.
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Jun 10, 2011 08:21
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I'm going to give my chain a thorough scrubbing for the first time. I could't find a chain-cleaning brush, but I bought a 3 pack of standard brushes. The brush types are nylon, copper and steel. Does it matter what I scrub the chain with?
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Jun 10, 2011 21:41
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Hughmoris posted:I'm going to give my chain a thorough scrubbing for the first time. I could't find a chain-cleaning brush, but I bought a 3 pack of standard brushes. The brush types are nylon, copper and steel. Does it matter what I scrub the chain with? Nylon, don't wanna scuff it up or get tiny metal bristles into the rings! I just use a rag, then toss it once it's filthy.
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Jun 10, 2011 21:48
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SaNChEzZ posted:Nylon, don't wanna scuff it up or get tiny metal bristles into the rings! I just use a rag, then toss it once it's filthy. I do the same here. The chain is the dirtiest, most annoying part of my bike. On that note, I'm sure it's been covered, but are there any alternatives to spray on lube that are worth switching? It's a pain to find the regular spray kind here and I've never seen anything else. Even if I give it a ton of dry time, I still end up with lube all over the ground and wheel and bike.
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Jun 10, 2011 21:51
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Do you use the dupont teflon dry-to-wax stuff? I barely get any fling from it.
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Jun 10, 2011 21:56
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nsaP posted:I do the same here. The chain is the dirtiest, most annoying part of my bike. On that note, I'm sure it's been covered, but are there any alternatives to spray on lube that are worth switching? It's a pain to find the regular spray kind here and I've never seen anything else. Even if I give it a ton of dry time, I still end up with lube all over the ground and wheel and bike. Hold the rag behind it when you spray to catch it before the ground and bike do, wipe up the excess.
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Jun 10, 2011 21:56
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Your old t-shirts that were funny in 2004 can a) clothe the poor, but again out them as poor when they're seen with outdated t-shirt comedy or b) lay down their life for the greater good, ensuring the integrity of your drivetrain. Me, I care a lot about the poor and I would hate to see them mocked wearing pre-Facebook internet jokes and that whole pirate/ninja/zombie disaster so it's b) every time. The best thing would obviously be paying a poor person $2 to clean your chain with one of your old t-shirts. As for lube, we can't get the Dupont stuff in Norway, but I've used a shop branded PTFE (which is the chemical abbreviation of Teflon™) spray. I also got a Chinese non-branded chain for 1/2 the price of a branded one. It makes some noise when unlubed, it is slightly sticky in places and the lube does wear off quickly in the wet, but the lube costs 1/3 of motorcycle shop branded lubes, the chain has 15.000 miles on it and I still have half the adjustment range left so score two for the cheapskates.
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Jun 10, 2011 22:08
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Personally, I use a litre of 75-90 gear oil thanks to Z3n's recommendation. I paid about $5 for it and have lubed my chain 6 or so times and can't even tell that any of it is missing. T-shirt goes under the chain, apply gear oil, rotate wheel a bit, rinse and repeat. Then once I'm done I spin it a few times while wiping off excess so it doesn't get flung all over the place.
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Jun 10, 2011 22:15
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A question. I was putting rear-set controls on my Bonnie, and in doing so removed the side cover for the front sprocket. I was surprised by the amount of grease and grit that had built up in there. Would it be a good idea to periodically remove this cover and clean out what's behind it? 
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Jun 10, 2011 22:17
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Definitely can't hurt. Better to have clean crevices than dirty ones.
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Jun 10, 2011 22:20
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Yes, can't hurt at all. It also gives you some touch-time and a look-see on the condition of your front sprocket.
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Jun 11, 2011 00:49
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KozmoNaut posted:Odd, mine don't squeak at all, but they do drag a bit even when not applied, enough to be audible. Just checked with a friend. No, not you, a real friend  . They seem to be almost 2mm oversize for your calibers and rotors. Anyway, just wear them down a bit, and we'll change your rotors next time. It's a 1 hour job, and you already got the rotors. I'm pretty sure those pads will make your bike stop moving though - they seem alright to me. It's your rear brake that drags a bit, right? No problem with the front? Call me this weekend and we'll fix it. Edit: just don't blind me with those fine and dandy hoses again. LO Technology fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jun 11, 2011 |
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Jun 11, 2011 04:52
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Would someone mind doing a run down comparing the current crop of 600 super sports? I'm interested in making the SS leap and I'd like to know what's out there.
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Jun 11, 2011 06:52
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frozenphil posted:Would someone mind doing a run down comparing the current crop of 600 super sports? I'm interested in making the SS leap and I'd like to know what's out there. I'd avoid the 06-07 R6, because they are really weak on the midrange. Besides that pick the R6 if you want a trackbike, otherwise pick whichever one you like the most.
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Jun 11, 2011 06:57
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RoadRacingWorld just did a comparison of the 2011 GSXR vs ZX6R vs R6. I don't know if it's against the rules for me to screenshot the PDF and upload it though. Edit: Here are my heavily biased and totally retarded opinions You're short? Buy the GSXR - lowest seat height and very narrow. You want to make the most power? ZX6R You want a track weapon? R6 or GSXR You don't like slipper clutches or love undertail exhausts? CBR600RR I own an 09 ZX6R - I love the bike but the setup knowledge is non-existant for them and it kind of pisses me off. I wouldn't trade it for another 600 i4 but if I started over I'd probably buy an R6 or GSXR. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Jun 11, 2011 |
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Jun 11, 2011 06:58
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There are Red ones, and blue and white ones, and blue ones, and green ones, and then oddball ones that are yellow or black. Some of them have tribal stickers, others have colored lines. As far as styling, some look like they started life as a gelatinous plastic which was put in a wind tunnel, others are real swooshy. Really what you're paying for is the letters. R's and X's.
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Jun 11, 2011 06:58
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That being said, avoid the doucher stereotype and don't buy anything with GSXR in the name. R6's are usually a safe bet if you wanna do some trackdays. Kawasaki has been "leading" the 600's the last few years I believe but that's not saying a whole lot. 675's are sexy rear end bikes that often get overlooked. Be aware that they are tall as gently caress and have a pretty aggressive stance - it won't feel like a touring bike or anything when commuting. I really hate that the only "deals" I've been seeing on craigslist in my search for a new bike have been gixxer's with stretched swingarms and "custom" paint jobs. I really hate looking at bikes for sale in any temperature where squids feel comfortable. Especially when they think they can sell their clapped out '03 600's for 6500 dollars with a stretched swingarm and tires that are rock hard with 5 inch chicken strips.
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Jun 11, 2011 07:08
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Ola posted:Your old t-shirts that were funny in 2004 can a) clothe the poor, but again out them as poor when they're seen with outdated t-shirt comedy or b) lay down their life for the greater good, ensuring the integrity of your drivetrain. The best thing is to fly you and your motorcycle to a disaster-stricken third world country at great expense, clean the chain yourself and then post a self-congratulatory thread about innocence lost and wisdom catastrophically gained by the age of 19. Remember, it's the thought that counts.[/GBS] I find cheap PTFE spray is second only to Castrol chain cleaner for just removing poo poo from chains. Castrol is amazing, but it's hugely expensive and the cans don't last at all. The theory as I understand it with not using penetrating and displacing sprays like WD40, or the PTFE versions like GT85, is that if you have a damaged ring (!), it will drive out the grease and leave you with no effective lubrication, since it is at best a light duty lube. I guess if you don't, it can be very effective. And clearly on a non-oring chain it could work well at least as a cleaner. e: Japanese 600 supersport bikes. Buy the one that's incredibly unfashionable. You will be able to get it at a significant discount because the Dainese-and-CNC-machined-titanium-tyre-warmers brigade wouldn't be caught dead on one. Even if it loses 1/2 a second around the Streets of Searsadega Motosports Park, it will still be a very good bike. When you re-sell it in 4 or 5 years, it will only be a tiny bit cheaper than the rest of them because fashion will have moved on. I don't know which bike this is, because to me a sports 600 for 9000 pounds sterling is unjustifiably expensive. Go back far enough and the TT600 is this bike. Stops and handles amazingly, slightly down on power when it was released, looks like a dowdy CBR600 F4. Saga fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Jun 11, 2011 |
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Jun 11, 2011 07:12
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frozenphil posted:Would someone mind doing a run down comparing the current crop of 600 super sports? I'm interested in making the SS leap and I'd like to know what's out there. I don't mean to be a dick, but is there really a reason to move to a SS on the street for riding purposes? I'm on a 600 standard now ( ) and I'm nailing corners on the street and drat near 2X the posted speed limit and still leaving a nice line of chicken strip on the tire. What is the point? I'm looking to a sumo myself.I mean, nothing has the curb and sex appeal of a hot super sport, but...boring. I'd track one for sure tho. To finally feel banging thru that powerband...3rd-6th gear 10-14k pinned...
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Jun 11, 2011 09:20
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LO Technology posted:Just checked with a friend. No, not you, a real friend The fronts drag a little bit, but no more than they did with the old, worn-out pads. The rear still drags a fair amount, I can make the wheel rotate maybe 1/4 of a turn if I give it a good flick. The disc doesn't get hot enough to sizzle water if I ride without using the rear brake anymore, though. And stopping power is gooooood 
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Jun 11, 2011 09:54
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frozenphil posted:Would someone mind doing a run down comparing the current crop of 600 super sports? I'm interested in making the SS leap and I'd like to know what's out there. What do you plan to use it for? Track or street?
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Jun 11, 2011 10:03
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KozmoNaut posted:The fronts drag a little bit, but no more than they did with the old, worn-out pads. Fine. If it doesn't settle by itself drop by Sunday or Monday and we'll fix it. Give me a call before you step on my loving lawn (pavement) this time, punk
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Jun 11, 2011 10:08
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LO Technology posted:Fine. If it doesn't settle by itself drop by Sunday or Monday and we'll fix it. Give me a call before you step on my loving lawn (pavement) this time, punk I just checked, the wheel will turn about a ½ turn by itself given a good flick and the new discs are the same width as the old ones, 5mm in front, 5,5mm in back. The small bit of drag really doesn't affect riding, I only notice it when stopped at the lights. If something blows up or bursts into fire, I'll be sure to stop by, though And get one of your drat bikes over here, already!
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Jun 11, 2011 10:17
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KozmoNaut posted:And get one of your drat bikes over here, already! Will happen last week this month. Prepare to be two-smoked by roughly 115Hp vintage GT750.
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Jun 11, 2011 10:28
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| # ? May 16, 2024 03:12 |
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the walkin dude posted:My 2000 SV650's acting up again with the battery. I bought a new battery recently because I suspected the 3 year old battery was going bad. The bike was fine for a few days then yesterday the gf went out to the bike and it refused to start and output a "NNNN" noise. Just like it did with the old battery - fine for an approximate week, then dies. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf If you cant get the gsxr one from that guy (it wont be any better than the stock one, just newer) get a Mosfet one, this guy sells nice kits with good connectors and all the wire you'll need http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm
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Jun 11, 2011 11:42
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