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Piano posted:The safety standard since the mid 80s or whatever is the vehicle must support 1.5x it's own weight upside down without the A pillar deflecting more than 5 inches. Uuuuh. I don't think this applied to convertibles. Proof: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGHzyNJ3-kI Ziploc fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jun 15, 2011 |
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Jun 15, 2011 00:40
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Piano posted:The safety standard since the mid 80s or whatever is the vehicle must support 1.5x it's own weight upside down without the A pillar deflecting more than 5 inches. http://danotech.com/miata/rolled.html Have fun with that. Even if I didn't track the car I'd have a real bar in it.
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Jun 15, 2011 01:38
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^^^ It's cool I have a HCHCDDHTM2HCD2MHMR2TURBODDHT.Ziploc posted:Uuuuh. I don't think this applied to convertibles. Enhhhh that crash looked like 30mph(?) or so, which is welllllllll past 1.5 g forces, the a-pillar has to be absorbing something well past 10,000 ft-lbs of kinetic energy in that particular roll. I thought it was obvious that the situation I was describing would never really happen, I'm aware that the a-pillar won't stand up under any roll that isn't comically slow. Like, it would only take probably 10 mph to generate 3000 ft-lbs of kinetic energy. But if you lowered a miata onto the ground with a crane, would it support itself? Probably.
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Jun 15, 2011 01:55
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Piano posted:But if you lowered a miata onto the ground with a crane, would it support itself? Probably. I still don't think so.
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Jun 15, 2011 02:04
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Ziploc posted:I still don't think so. I've decided that I was wrong and you are right. There goes my weekend of gently flipping over my car  .
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Jun 15, 2011 02:10
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Moot argument really. Neither of us can prove our cases. We will just need to kiss and makeup. 
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Jun 15, 2011 02:16
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Ziploc posted:Moot argument really. Neither of us can prove our cases. We will just need to kiss and makeup. This is the miata thread after all. This kinda makes me want to get a roll bar.
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Jun 15, 2011 03:22
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Russian Bear posted:This kinda makes me want to get a roll bar. I would have one. Except I would need a race seat. Since with stock seats my head is right in front of the bar. If I get even the lightest tap from a car from behind in the city I would be plenty hurt. I asked myself what was more likely to happen, getting hit by someone else in the rear ( ) or rolling the car. And since I drive my car every day all year, I figured the former would happen first.
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Jun 15, 2011 03:43
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That and a rollbar in an accident without a harness and a helmet is going to gently caress your head up real good.
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Jun 15, 2011 04:19
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Suniikaa posted:That and a rollbar in an accident without a harness and a helmet is going to gently caress your head up real good. Don't worry, Volvos will protect the resulting soft spot just fine.
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Jun 15, 2011 07:16
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As someone who just wrecked a Miata with a rollbar in it, getting rollbar padding works wonders. I rear ended someone at 40mph or so, airbags deployed, and I walked away. Granted, I hit my head hard enough that I got knocked out and don't remember what happened, but I walked away and doctor pronounced me concussion-free. Pad your rollbars or get a race seat.
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Jun 15, 2011 09:40
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If you're buying the Hard dog, I would suggest getting other padding for it. The little strip they provide is tiny and insufficient in my opinion. I have race seats as well and am well below the bar but still wish I had better padding.
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Jun 15, 2011 23:05
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DreamOn13 posted:If you're buying the Hard dog, I would suggest getting other padding for it. The little strip they provide is tiny and insufficient in my opinion. I have race seats as well and am well below the bar but still wish I had better padding. It's the only way to sufficiently pad it if you have a hardtop.
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Jun 16, 2011 00:12
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I have a 95 miata with around 113000 miles on it. I replaced the slave cylinder about three weeks ago. However, a few days ago, the clutch pedal was getting softer and finally had no pressure at all. There was no fluid in the line. I bled the system again and the same thing happened three days later. People are telling me to replace the master slave cylinder now, but is there anywhere else it can be leaking? I'll check the lines for cracks too.
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Jun 16, 2011 01:19
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http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1990-Mazda-MX-5-Miata-Convertible-W0QQAdIdZ290365543 Haven't seen it yet, how much Miata could one get for $2500?
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Jun 16, 2011 01:43
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Haven't seen it yet, how much Miata could one get for $2500? quote:don't think it is a mx-5 but is a strait miata. not safetied, needs some work Sounds like this is either a really great deal, or a horrifically lovely one. Either way, it won't take long after seeing it to find out.
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Jun 16, 2011 01:54
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I posted in here asking about exhaust and I decided what I want to do, but I want to see what you guys think about it. I really like racing beat and I think they make a good product that sounds good, so I opted for the RB headers, racing midpipe and single powerpulse muffler. http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-1990-2005/Exhaust-Headers/56007.html http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-1990-2005/Exhaust-General/56439.html http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-1990-2005/Exhaust-General/56461.html The problem is that this midpipe doesn't have a cat, which I'm not really concerned with, since from what I understand you can just take the second O2 sensor and wire it somewhere hanging in your engine compartment or something. I also read about using an O2 sensor simulator to trick the second O2 sensor so CEL turns off. This car is going to be road registered and driven on PA roads, but I have a friend that will pass it anyway. Does this seem like a stupid idea and I should just get a midpipe with a cat?
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Jun 16, 2011 02:01
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Nm my original thought, but I say that, to me, it would be worth spending a little extra to avoid having to encourage corrupt testers. E: Might as well ask a question - if a '91 that I test drove had a clutch that only..poo poo I always get confused between "engage" and "disengage" with clutches..only allows the engine to make the car GO with the pedal almost all the way out, what would I likely want to check or replace? televiper fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Jun 16, 2011 |
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Jun 16, 2011 04:40
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BusinessWallet posted:I posted in here asking about exhaust and I decided what I want to do, but I want to see what you guys think about it. I really like racing beat and I think they make a good product that sounds good, so I opted for the RB headers, racing midpipe and single powerpulse muffler. This seems like an insane amount of money to spend on something that will not gain you much in the way of horsepower. If you want the sound, just get their muffler. Don't bother with doing a test pipe in a place where you have to pass emissions. What if your friend gets a new job? For your car you're probably looking at spending used turbo kit money almost for it.
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Jun 16, 2011 05:49
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n8r posted:This seems like an insane amount of money to spend on something that will not gain you much in the way of horsepower. If you want the sound, just get their muffler. Don't bother with doing a test pipe in a place where you have to pass emissions. What if your friend gets a new job? For your car you're probably looking at spending used turbo kit money almost for it. Yeah I realize it's a lot, but I don't have a lot of options. I have a 99 with a Cali emissions exhaust, which has the precat in the headers, and then the secondary cat, both are totally gone so I have to replace them, the precat and secondary cat cost ~$600, so I'm not really into replacing them, I don't live in cali so it's not really necessary. Basically I have to replace the midpipe and headers, I'm only buying the muffler because it seems silly to replace everything else with nice new stuff and have that 12 year old rusty stock muffler hanging off the back, it's probably full of everything that shot out of my cat when my engine misfired anyway. (it misfired because some idiot got water in my plug wells, my coil packs are fine) I realize I could get into turbo at this price, but I don't really think I have a lot of options. I've seen people buying 2001 OEM used exhuast systems from people who upgraded with good luck but those are really hard to find.
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Jun 16, 2011 13:00
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Don't forget that Raceland makes decent headers for half the price for your year (IIRC, I think 90-93 were the problem headers).
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Jun 16, 2011 14:38
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destructo posted:Don't forget that Raceland makes decent headers for half the price for your year (IIRC, I think 90-93 were the problem headers). Yeah I see they're under 200, maybe a better idea.
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Jun 16, 2011 14:53
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I installed a raceland header on my 99. I went through the same thing..I wanted a header to replace the retarded front cat/manifold setup, and I couldn't find any 01+ manifolds for sale. I look at headers and balked as there were no headers under $400 except the Raceland, so I thought it can't be $300 worse than the others. It was very nice when I got in from Ebay--looks way nicer than the $100 price tag, good welds, nice stainless steel, looked perfect. Installing it was a pretty big pain in the rear end though. The EGR fitting was at a bad angle (I was able to bend the stock EGR pipe to fit), the header hits the transmission tunnel on acceleration and also rubs the transmission flange (I was able to bang out the tunnel a bit), but the worst was the rear flange bolt holes do not line up with the midpipe bolts, and you have to cobble a gasket setup that will fit (and it might leak). I was able to grind out the flange holes to fit, but that stainless is QUITE hard and it destroyed more than a few of my grinding bits. In the end I got it on and it works just as good as a $400 RB header and fits nearly as well, but you do need to do some work to get it to fit. So the question is if you can do that work and if it's worth $300 to you. If I was keeping the car, I wish I'd spent the money on the RB(or other) header, but since I'm selling it in a year or so I'm happy.
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Jun 16, 2011 18:51
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I'm not doing the bending and all that stuff myself, if I installed it I'd only really be able to do the basic install so I should probably just get the RB then? What did you do for a midpipe?
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Jun 16, 2011 19:21
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BusinessWallet posted:Yeah I realize it's a lot, but I don't have a lot of options. I have a 99 with a Cali emissions exhaust, which has the precat in the headers, and then the secondary cat, both are totally gone so I have to replace them, the precat and secondary cat cost ~$600, so I'm not really into replacing them, I don't live in cali so it's not really necessary. Basically I have to replace the midpipe and headers, I'm only buying the muffler because it seems silly to replace everything else with nice new stuff and have that 12 year old rusty stock muffler hanging off the back, it's probably full of everything that shot out of my cat when my engine misfired anyway. (it misfired because some idiot got water in my plug wells, my coil packs are fine) I realize I could get into turbo at this price, but I don't really think I have a lot of options. I've seen people buying 2001 OEM used exhuast systems from people who upgraded with good luck but those are really hard to find. Are you failing emissions now? What about going with some sort of just a generic weld in replacement cat? If the precat is blown out, is it affecting performance? I would think it'd be just fine. Have you checked with these guys for parts? http://www.planet-miata.com/index.php?section=31630995 I can almost guarantee even the RB stuff will be finicky to install. Exhaust poo poo is notorious for needing tweaks to work.
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Jun 16, 2011 19:59
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n8r posted:Are you failing emissions now? What about going with some sort of just a generic weld in replacement cat? If the precat is blown out, is it affecting performance? I would think it'd be just fine.
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Jun 16, 2011 20:19
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Do you have a check engine light? I think you're looking at the wrong places if you can't find someone that will weld in a generic cat for cheap. Indy muffler shops should be willing to do that for a very minimal amount of money. Have them just punch out the remainder of the cat that is in the manifold at the same time. I can't believe someone would charge you much more than $100 to do that.
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Jun 16, 2011 20:29
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n8r posted:Do you have a check engine light? I think you're looking at the wrong places if you can't find someone that will weld in a generic cat for cheap. Indy muffler shops should be willing to do that for a very minimal amount of money. Have them just punch out the remainder of the cat that is in the manifold at the same time. I can't believe someone would charge you much more than $100 to do that. They will do it for cheap, but I have to buy 2 catalytic converters since my car is Cali emissions, and they're expensive. My CEL will stay on if I replace the rear cat, because the precat is busted and if you're not familiar, it's not the type you can weld in, you have to buy a bolt in replacement because it's a proprietary shape. If I don't replace the precat the CEL will stay on because the rear O2 sensor will get a bad reading since it is right after the precat, before the second cat. Replacing the second cat without buying headers will be pointless, which is why I'm just considering replacing the whole exhaust.
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Jun 16, 2011 22:08
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Is there an o2 sensor eliminator you can wire in? I'm not real familiar with it.
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Jun 16, 2011 22:46
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n8r: my friend with a 2001 got a Racing Beat header in 2001 and installed it himself and has had no issues with the install or fitment for 10 years. This guy isn't very good at turning wrenches either. The RB header HAS changed since then, but I know for a fact that their old header fit great and even a noob could install it. If you have the money, it's not a bad purchase. I don't see the Raceland header on ebay anymore, I see an OBX header, i dont know if that's easier or harder to install. edit: I think you can get a simulator for the rear o2 sensor, but i'd have to check m.net to be sure about that BusinessWallet: I see your issues, I have the same exact setup. You have a few options.. Also, unless you get a new or used precat you're going to have to relocate your o2 sensors. You'll need the current front one to be in front of the main cat and the current rear one (that's now behind the precat and in front of the main cat) to move to the rear of the main cat. As for the manifold/header you can: Punch out your manfiold $0 Buy a used 01+ manifold $100? Raceland or OBX Header $150 - PITA modifications probably needed Racing Beat Header $420 Used 99-00 manifold (with precat) $100+? Used 99-00 manifold (49 state with no precat) $50? for the mid pipe: cut out dead cat, weld in new one ~$120 Racing Beat midpipe (no cat) $215 Flying Miata midpipe (cat) $325 (http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4503&parentid=0&stocknumber=06-58100) cat back you have a million choices.. What are your priorities? money? do you care about power? you going to race it? I went with Raceland header, stock midpipe (my main cat is fine) and 100$ ebay muffler I had fitment problems with the header and the muffler, but since I have a welder and grinders and stuff they weren't bad. If I had to do it again, I'd buy the RB header or a 01+ manifold. aventari fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jun 16, 2011 |
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Jun 16, 2011 22:59
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 Let's not forget that you can buy the header on the bottom for $1050. Maxim works 
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Jun 17, 2011 00:13
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I think I'm willing to spend 7-1000 on this whole setup. I was thinking about that RB midpipe, it's a bit cheaper, no cat, probably sounds cooler, but what about the secondary O2? Should I just buy an O2 simulator or do you think it wouldn't trigger CEL if I just left the O2 sensor tied somewhere out of the exhaust? I also saw the Roadster Sport midpipe, what makes the FM one different? Raceland sells their headers on their website for 159, which isn't too bad. I probably wouldn't buy the OBX but there's a thread on Miata.net about the Raceland and it looks pretty good. A few people ditched RB for it.
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Jun 17, 2011 00:59
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Welp, I'm officially no longer a member of the Miata Owners Club. Sold my 95M today to a local goon. I'm going to miss it, but I'm glad someone else will get to enjoy it as much as I did. Maybe someday I'll rejoin the ranks with a slightly more beatup Miata that I'll turn into a track rat. I'd have felt bad doing that to a good condition 95M.
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Jun 18, 2011 04:41
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For those of you not living in So Cal, be jealous. Very jealous. 150+ Miatas at the 5 year KINOD anniversary meet in Industry, CA.    Here's mah NA. (Don't tell her she needs her Racing Beat nose painted...) 
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Jun 18, 2011 09:37
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Looks like a sweet meet. So much low, hahaha. I keep seeing KINOD on CR all the time. I'm not jealous though. Us East Coast miata people have Miatas at the Gap 
First Time Caller fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Jun 19, 2011 |
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Jun 19, 2011 16:19
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Miatas at the Gap probably takes second to Minis at the Gap as to how horribly crowded it is. If you like slowboating at 10mph it's great, but if you want to get anywhere around the area during these events, it's impossible. Vvv- lol Phone fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Jun 19, 2011 |
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Jun 19, 2011 17:19
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If you want less crowds, go to Club Roadster at the gap instead. MatG is as much about driving as it is about getting drunk and relishing your youth praying to god you die before you get as old as the rest of the attendees.
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Jun 19, 2011 18:46
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Now that this thread has manned up, I feel the need to ask a stupid question: I DD a 95M, and I'm looking to put a little more pep in it's step. Can you achieve reasonable gains out of a NA with a CAI/header/exhaust combo or am I stuck going forced induction if I want something noticeable?
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Jun 19, 2011 22:13
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Is $15k a fair price for an '05 with 17k on the OD? Dealer claims its a six-speed with a LSD. Saw the car (dealer was closed at the time,) looks very clean, soft top is in good condition and paint is nearly flawless. Here it is on autotrader.
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Jun 19, 2011 22:34
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To get 160whp in a Miata you need: -decent exhaust (RB - $425) -decent intake (JDM/EDM squaretop or custom job - $500) -VVT engine and a way to control the VVT (2001+ motor & MS3 - $700 & $500ish) If you had a 99-00 motor, an exhaust is worth 10whp on it's own. 
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Jun 19, 2011 22:37
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