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Yeah on the back of the head, the one with the plastic clip and four(?) wires that is bundled up into the injector/cas/etc wiring is the one that goes to the ecu. The other sensor on the back looks like a little spark plug and has 1 wire coming out is an analogue sensor that feeds to the gauge cluster (and is beyond worthless).
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Jul 1, 2011 01:06
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Tactical Bonnet posted:gently caress the rear calipers on a NA, by the way. Piston-retracting screws? really? gently caress you guys. With an allen-wrench socket? That poo poo's pretty convenient..
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Jul 1, 2011 03:14
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It's enough of a pain in the rear end to not make me want to swap out street/autox pads and HPDE pads, but it took me like 5 minutes to figure it out when I swapped out my rotors and rear pads 3 years ago.
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Jul 1, 2011 03:30
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revmoo posted:With an allen-wrench socket? It is until the callipers stick and you strip the bolt. I know they can be replaced quite easily but it's still a pain when they go.
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Jul 1, 2011 08:40
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The Mazdaspeed has sat for a week and I still have to mandhandle the new top to get it down. Normal or not?
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Jul 1, 2011 22:27
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Define manhandle. It will take a long time (on the order of months of regular use) for a new top, especially vinyl, to get fully broken in.
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Jul 1, 2011 22:45
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Not James Buchanan fucked around with this message at 03:05 on May 2, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2011 23:07
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If the top is otherwise in good shape you can always just put a new window in.
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Jul 1, 2011 23:17
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Guinness posted:Define manhandle. It will take a long time (on the order of months of regular use) for a new top, especially vinyl, to get fully broken in. The window does not fold automatically out of the way, I have to push the whole assembly down firmly to get the top to go down. It probably takes 15-20 pounds of force to get it to go down. It is a cloth top. It goes up just fine, and I adjusted the latches and it has zero trouble going up, but going down it gets real hung up on the window. I'm inclined to just take the car back and I probably would have except the loving shop bought a junkyard glovebox to replace the broken one and it's all oxidized and sun damaged to poo poo. It's an insurance job so I know they were just hoping to pocket the difference.
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Jul 2, 2011 00:09
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When I replaced the top on my NA with a glass-windowed vinyl top, it required an extra guiding hand to help the window overcome the friction of the top material when sliding into its little fold-pocket-thing for quite a while, and then I just got in the habit of doing it anyway to help alleviate stress on the stitching/glue around the window since it required almost zero extra effort (I was used to the PITA zipper window OEM top anyway, so it still was less effort than that). And I also had to push down on the top to get it to fold 100% away onto the rear deck due to the stiffness of the new top as well, but that gradually subsided over the course of several months as things stretched out and loosened up. A new top is going to require a lot of break-in before being as easy/loose/smooth as a 10+ year old top. Guinness fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jul 2, 2011 |
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Jul 2, 2011 00:16
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What kind of plugs are recommended for a 2003. Should I stick with OEM NGK's or has anyone else had luck running a different plug?
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Jul 2, 2011 00:22
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revmoo posted:With an allen-wrench socket? I love the rear caliper piston retractor on my NB. Compared to that stuff 'screw the piston in with a special tool' bullshit it's a dream.
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Jul 2, 2011 01:27
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Previa_fun posted:What kind of plugs are recommended for a 2003. Should I stick with OEM NGK's or has anyone else had luck running a different plug? I'm using NKG at the moment but I used whatever the walmart house brand ones are for a year or so with no problems. Probably order NKG if time isn't an issue but if you have to settle for buying some right away, most run of the mill brands should work.
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Jul 2, 2011 01:32
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Auto Zone and O'really's stock NGKs.
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Jul 2, 2011 06:03
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Gembolah posted:Soft top question: If you read back a few pages there is quite a bit of discussion on replacement tops. I think the general consensus is that it can be a pain to install tops, but if you're patient it's definitely doable and can save you a lot of money. That said, $900 seems really high, even for a pro install on a Robbins top. I'm in the Seattle area and I see ads on CL all of the time advertising the same thing for $500. If the zipper assembly wasn't at issue, you could buy a cutout/glue in window replacement from eMiata for pretty cheap. I did that on my last miata and it came out "ok". The main lesson learned was to make sure not to use too much glue and to be careful as heck with it since it is impossible to clean up.
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Jul 2, 2011 07:11
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Gembolah posted:Soft top question: I just installed my own. I'm a professional mechanic so I wasn't scared of it or anything but it was kind of a pain. If you don't have a rollbar and you remove the seats first it'd be as easy as it could be. I got the Robbins budget/streamline 1 seam vinyl top with glass for just over $300. If you have tools and at least some kind of mechanical aptitude you should be able to do it over a weekend.
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Jul 2, 2011 22:06
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Not James Buchanan fucked around with this message at 03:06 on May 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2011 23:26
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I was under the impression that the soft top could be installed onto the frame, away from the car, and then bolted in afterwards. Could be a candidate for a dining room table project?
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Jul 2, 2011 23:47
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Piano posted:I was under the impression that the soft top could be installed onto the frame, away from the car, and then bolted in afterwards. This is correct.
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Jul 3, 2011 02:37
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Dunno how useful this could actually be, but here's a video of Edd China changing the top on their NA: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTLedcD06lY&feature=player_detailpage#t=203s
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Jul 3, 2011 09:46
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Test drove a miata today - I'm trying to figure out if it has the LSD or not. It was a '97 green, cloth seats, 5 spoke wheels, no power windows, no ac. From what I can tell, this means it was an "M" edition, which would have the LSD. Am I right?
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Jul 4, 2011 03:50
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TrueChaos posted:Test drove a miata today - I'm trying to figure out if it has the LSD or not. It was a '97 green, cloth seats, 5 spoke wheels, no power windows, no ac. From what I can tell, this means it was an "M" edition, which would have the LSD. Am I right? Was it dark-blue-green or just green with the gold flake? Refer to this page. The M edition was the green with gold flake, but if it's the dark blue/green, the paint isn't really any indication. edit: things are completely different outside of America for that chart, afaik. Jean Eric Burn fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jul 4, 2011 |
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Jul 4, 2011 03:57
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M edition means it has everything. Power windows, power mirrors, power steering, AC, leather seats, etc.
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Jul 4, 2011 04:02
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Welp. It's the dark blue/green, and the seller is claiming it has the LSD, seemingly without any other options. Guess the best course of action is probably to get the vin and call mazda customer service.
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Jul 4, 2011 04:23
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Adding to the top discussion: I got mine, frame and all, from a fellow in NH who strips cars to make 'em into track day vehicles. $600. I got my hardtop for $600 too, though, so I might just be very lucky.
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Jul 4, 2011 13:22
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Ok, finally going to share my most recent change up. Sold my 95 two weeks ago... I've been wanting a 99+ and managed to find a really good price on one locally despite the "it's sunny out" tax everyone is adding to convertibles on CL. It's a 99 in white with 135k, most services records, an OEM hard top, torsen rear end, etc. These pictures are before detailing.   The outside needed to be clay barred and waxed desperately, and came out pretty nicely. Considering how old the paint is, I'm reasonably happy with it. The interior is still pending a detail, which it needs because it's stinkyyyy. The nasty rear end seat covers are happily gone though. I'm probably going to sell the HT locally since I got a deal on a CF one and the OEM units seem to have inflated values thanks to the Spec guys and I can use the difference in cash on other parts. Plans right now are to replace the original radiator with an aluminum unit since it's turning brown, then sort out the suspension (likely going to try VMAXX coils and a racing beat hollow front bar), install a roll bar (likely Boss Frog unfinished), then wheels and tires, which I picked up a set of rpf1s that need refinishing/powdercoating on CL. Long term I might supercharge... I don't know. It looks like the cheaper Jackson Racing kit (MP45 I think?) isn't being sold and the only option is the $3k MP62 or spending even more for a cold side or something... I guess I could look at turboing, but after dealing with turbo lag on my last few cars I'm not sure that I want to.
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Jul 4, 2011 18:24
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Welp I'm joining the club. Bought a black '99 with hardtop, tan leather interior, power everything, incredible paint, absolutely pristine condition. I'm incredibly excited. 125,000km, so its probably due for a timing belt in the next 5k or so, but thats doable. 
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Jul 5, 2011 01:05
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Nice! That's about the same mileage mine had when I bought it. I did the belt then too. Do the trans/diff fluids while your at it as well.
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Jul 5, 2011 05:05
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Mat_Drinks posted:Plans right now are to replace the original radiator with an aluminum unit since it's turning brown, Mat_Drinks posted:then sort out the suspension (likely going to try VMAXX coils and a racing beat hollow front bar), Mat_Drinks posted:Long term I might supercharge... I don't know. It looks like the cheaper Jackson Racing kit (MP45 I think?) isn't being sold and the only option is the $3k MP62 or spending even more for a cold side or something... I guess I could look at turboing, but after dealing with turbo lag on my last few cars I'm not sure that I want to. destructo fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Jul 5, 2011 |
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Jul 5, 2011 06:50
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destructo posted:Waste of money, get an OEM replacement off ebay for $70. I think Aeon is the brand. destructo posted:RB tubular is a good idea, if you're going to spend VMAXX money you may as well spent a little more and buy something else. destructo posted:The only good supercharger kit is the Rotrex, and that's coming from a guy with an M45 sitting in the basement. 
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Jul 5, 2011 08:58
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So im looking to pick up a miata as a second car for autocross and weekend duity. not really looking to spend much. Are there any red flags here (other than dumb wheels, he does not have the stock wheels). The plan is to eventually turbo it. The guy says he "has a box of turbo stuff that used to be on it before he bought it". But the FM suspension sounds pretty nice to me. http://i56.tinypic.com/oktkyc.jpg
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Jul 5, 2011 12:40
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If you're interested, go now. It's probably already sold. Everyone looks out for M-editions, and with some nice suspension upgrades, this will sell really fast.
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Jul 5, 2011 12:54
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:If you're interested, go now. It's probably already sold. Everyone looks out for M-editions, and with some nice suspension upgrades, this will sell really fast. Im first on the list to look at it. Wanted to make sure the price wasnt outlandish.
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Jul 5, 2011 13:23
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Sadi posted:Im first on the list to look at it. Wanted to make sure the price wasnt outlandish. I don't think it is... The stats for the price seem good, especially considering the time of the year. Check the plastic window to make sure it's not cracked, but even those are replaceable.
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Jul 5, 2011 17:19
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Sadi posted:Im first on the list to look at it. Wanted to make sure the price wasnt outlandish.
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Jul 5, 2011 17:29
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destructo posted:The owner is probably retarded seeing as he put 15x8 0-offset wheels on the thing. Heh, I hadn't even noticed how far those things are sticking out in the back... Who needs wheel bearings? Also, the style bar has got to go.
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Jul 5, 2011 18:03
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How much does it suck to replace the top yourself? They have good ones for around $300 on ebay. Mine is real ratty and needs to be replaced, but if I have to pay someone to do it I'll probably just get a hardtop.
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Jul 6, 2011 01:45
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All of a sudden I am starting to dislike the stock NA seats a lot. I'm willing to get another cheap Corbeau or something but I can't legally disable the airbag I guess (to specifically have a quick release) so I don't know if I can even get into a seat with decent bolsters, without having a quick release. Also seat companies are a bunch of dumb babbys for putting their logo on everything.
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Jul 6, 2011 04:45
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 I'm looking at it on Saturday. Just had the 60k service (timing belt, etc), 87k miles. How much do OEM wheels cost? How much of a bitch will it be to remove those stripes?
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Jul 6, 2011 05:04
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blugu64 posted:
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Jul 6, 2011 05:34
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