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destructo posted:Oem wheels should be cheap. Maybe $150-250 depending on which NB wheels they are (NA wheels fit, but would look funky). Strips are probably vinyl, not bad. I'd probably remove that dumb spoiler too. Hah, ya I kinda figured that would just be a couple bolts/plugs. I think the coworkers would never let me live it down if I showed up in a car with beige racing stripes.
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Jul 6, 2011 05:39
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Mat_Drinks posted:What would your suggestions be? I had been thinking about Koni Yellows and GC coilover's but the price on that doesn't seem great for what you're getting (an "ok" setup). People seem to love the FCM setup and the Xida's too, but those are triple the price of the VMAXX, which seems to be getting good reviews for an entry level CO. Quoting myself because Destructo left me hanging... you can't just say "don't by x suspension and y supercharger" without explaining it!
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Jul 6, 2011 06:09
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blugu64 posted:
I quoted some OEM wheels about 18 months ago when I bent two of mine having too much fun (shut up) and the Mazda house told me $300 each. You could probably find used ones in good shape for a bit less, but those wheels aren't cheap.
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Jul 6, 2011 10:03
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There are full sets on craigslist all the drat time around here for 200-250 bucks, why would you go to the dealer and buy new wheels? Do you hate money?
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Jul 6, 2011 14:06
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Piano posted:All of a sudden I am starting to dislike the stock NA seats a lot. I'm willing to get another cheap Corbeau or something but I can't legally disable the airbag I guess (to specifically have a quick release) so I don't know if I can even get into a seat with decent bolsters, without having a quick release. How tall are you? I'm fairly short and there is no way to get in/out of my car without taking off the wheel. I have a momo start side mounted so that the end of the seat is roughly where the seam is between the center trim piece and center console.
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Jul 6, 2011 14:33
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FatCow posted:How tall are you? I'm fairly short and there is no way to get in/out of my car without taking off the wheel. I have a momo start side mounted so that the end of the seat is roughly where the seam is between the center trim piece and center console. I'm around 6' or 6'1" and have a Sparco Sprint V (although bolted to the floor) and I have no problems getting in and out of the car with the stock wheel. But to the guy that is tired of the stock seats I would definitely suggest trying some seats out and seeing how you fit in them.
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Jul 6, 2011 17:52
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Anybody near the Philadelphia area have a turbocharged miata (FM2 or similar)? I'm looking at what my next fun thing should be and would like to see if it's as much fun as I imagine (more than double the power would seem so).
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Jul 6, 2011 17:54
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Hey guys, I hope this posting is OK - I am selling my '93 Miata in Jersey Shore, NJ area. See http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2400145&pagenumber=24#post393312196
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Jul 6, 2011 17:59
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If you're selling it with the hard top raise your price. The hard top alone is worth ~800-1200.
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Jul 7, 2011 02:04
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Today I was driving and my miata (96) started making a loud noise. It sounded like pinging or a grinding but it was really inconsistent. Long story short the temp shot up then the noise went away completely and my battery light went on. I assume this is the alternator?
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Jul 7, 2011 02:48
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Sounds like you should check your waterpump belt first.
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Jul 7, 2011 03:54
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Phone posted:Sounds like you should check your waterpump belt first. Would that explain the excessive heat and smoke coming from the lower engine block area?
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Jul 7, 2011 03:57
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You said that the battery light is on and that your temp gauge moved. Battery light: Battery isn't fully charged -> Bad alternator Temp gauge moving: Inadequate cooling/overheating Both of these happening at the same time points to the belt breaking that goes from the crank to the waterpump to the alternator. It's the most simple fix and easiest to check for.
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Jul 7, 2011 04:10
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Phone posted:You said that the battery light is on and that your temp gauge moved. Maybe my google foo is bad, but all the info I'm finding regarding a water pump or alternator belt seems to direct me to the timing belt (which was replaced less than 20k miles ago). I'm away from home for the summer, I think I can do a simple belt job but I'm not too confident in anything else due to lack of tools and willing friends.
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Jul 7, 2011 04:49
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Timing belt only connects cams and the crank, it's not like a honda or whatever where the water pump is run off the timing belt. Other 2 belts are water pump+crank+alternator and crank+power steering+a/c(if so equipped). Open the hood and play around with the belts, you won't hurt anything. Could also be one of the pulleys is seized, but I don't know if that really happens. edit: googling something just now led me to a guy who put a NB dash in a Fiero. Hah. This sorta owns.  This is the thread if anyone actually cares. Jean Eric Burn fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Jul 7, 2011 |
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Jul 7, 2011 05:19
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Argh, on the way to work this morning I got a CEL, followed by a blinking cel rather quickly. I limped it home fast and pulled the code... P0420. I'm familiar with replacing cats and o2 sensors, but I've never had it affect how a car runs this severely... after some digging it looks like I may have the dreaded coil pack failure (it does after all have 135k and I don't think the maintenance records I have show the coil pack as having ever been replaced). Quick question though... by the time I got the car home to pull the code, the CEL was solid, not blinking and only pulled the one code mentioned above. Does the engine misfire code that is indicative of coil pack failure only stay as long as the misfire is occurring? I'm hoping that by getting the car home fast I didn't kill the cat and o2 sensors. We'll see.
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Jul 7, 2011 07:31
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What year? Also, look at the coilpack for obvious marks of charring. e: oh just saw that you got a 99, it's the coilpacks if you're missing all over the place. Phone fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Jul 7, 2011 |
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Jul 7, 2011 12:46
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For a while the other night my temp gauge started crawling to the right and my air bag light was blinking in a 2 4 pattern. It stopped after a while, but my father-in-law (who is a mechanic) says it was probably the thermostat. I can't find anything about an error code 24 online, and I haven't had time to dig out my shop manual. Anyone have any thoughts?
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Jul 7, 2011 14:53
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Same issue as compton rear end terry - your water pump and alt are driven by the same belt, which was slipping. Your water pump wasn't getting driven enough, causing temps to climb, and your alt wasn't getting driven enough, leading to odd voltage in the car and basically guaranteeing you can't trust a drat code you get until it's fixed.
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Jul 7, 2011 17:30
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Speaking of '99 coil packs, are there replacements that don't die like the OEM ones or do we have to just get used to replacing them every few years?
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Jul 7, 2011 17:48
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Lyesh posted:Speaking of '99 coil packs, are there replacements that don't die like the OEM ones or do we have to just get used to replacing them every few years? Turbo guys use whatever they like but I suppose you'd need spark control (megasquirt, etc), or at least i'd be surprised if you didn't. Lots of threads on miataturbo regarding that.
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Jul 7, 2011 20:52
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I investigated the engine bay today after work. The belt that goes from the engine to the alternator has popped off (still one piece). There did not appear to be any other missing belts. It's my understanding that the alternator and water pump use separate belts. If the alternator belt popped off, is it possible that it stopped the water pump belt from moving? Also, is there a way to change the belt without messing with the timing belt?
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Jul 8, 2011 00:27
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Once again, the crank & waterpump & alternator are on one belt and the crank & power steering & AC are on the other. edit: the timing belt is under the pulley for the waterpump, yes you can change the ONE belt without removing the timing belt
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Jul 8, 2011 00:39
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Phone posted:Once again, the crank & waterpump & alternator are on one belt and the crank & power steering & AC are on the other. Sorry for all the simple questions, I just want to make sure I understand the full scope of the project before i start. If you're facing under the hood, the alternator is on the left, the crank is the bottom, and the water pump is above the crank.. Is that correct? How likely is it that the belt simply popped off? Could the alternator have seized causing the belt to slip off?
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Jul 8, 2011 01:27
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compton rear end terry posted:Sorry for all the simple questions, I just want to make sure I understand the full scope of the project before i start. It's more likely your water pump seized. It's recommend to replace the pump when you do the timing belt, one of those "while you're in there" maintenance items since you have to remove it to get to the belt anyway.
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Jul 8, 2011 01:42
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Whelp. I'm 95% sure that it's my water pump after some googleing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvU74YGgWnM Is the exact same noise mine was making. Turned out to be a bad water pump for that guy.
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Jul 8, 2011 02:07
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Just for reference
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Jul 8, 2011 02:29
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Thanks for the advice on the plugs, I'll go pick up some new NGKs soon. Now I'm getting a grind going into 5th gear.  Doesn't do it in any other gear so I figure it's not the slave making GBS threads itself, I figure it's just time to switch to a better fluid.
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Jul 9, 2011 00:23
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drat no dice on that Miata. I got an email from the seller who told me that I should wait for another one, as this one had some rust in the drivers side rear well. Needless to say I was pretty impressed that a dealer would tell me that.
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Jul 9, 2011 00:29
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So, my soft top is in relatively good condition, except for one issue - the rear window has separated from the window seal along the top. I've gotten it back in, and with the top down it will stay together, but I'm guessing I need to glue/seal it back in there permanently. What should I use to seal it? Other than that... wow. Just wow. I love this car. It's pretty funny when the back of a sportbike is in the middle of the windshield, lol.
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Jul 9, 2011 15:43
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Previa_fun posted:Thanks for the advice on the plugs, I'll go pick up some new NGKs soon. Some good fluid will fix you right up. I've had good luck with redline mt-90, but any good synthetic that is real manual transmission fluid should work.
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Jul 10, 2011 00:23
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Not sure if this should go into the stupid questions thread or here, but I'm having AC issues. So once it got warm out my AC stopped blowing cold air. I figured it just needed a recharge. So I put one can of R134a into it and that brought the pressure up a little bit. I stupidly only bought one can so I figured I would just go get another one and put it in whenever. Now I can't get the AC compressor to cycle. The first time I put R134a in I had to jump the low pressure sensor to get it to open up. Now that doesn't even work. The fans are running and the relays click open but the AC compressor doesn't engage. Did I manage to gently caress it up and if so how hard is it to swap out? My car is a 96 if that helps.
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Jul 10, 2011 04:16
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Going to be diagnosing my 94's non working A/C soon too, and recharging with some UV dye stuff after checking the pressure and such. I don't know poo poo about what I'm going to be doing just yet, so I'm interested to hear responses to your questions as well.
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Jul 11, 2011 03:27
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Enhh my car is dumb and doesn't understand that if it lets me save up money, I buy nice things for it. Battery died today, I guess. Got a jump and drove for 30-40 mins and it wouldn't start again after I parked. Voltage was around 14 +/- 1 while driving, pretty consistent. Ran fine. Only showing like 7 volts now with the key in the on position. For sure it's a dying battery, right?, or am I forgetting something else to check? Gonna go put it on the trickle charger, but I don't have high hopes.
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Jul 11, 2011 06:12
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8th-samurai posted:Not sure if this should go into the stupid questions thread or here, but I'm having AC issues. So once it got warm out my AC stopped blowing cold air. I figured it just needed a recharge. So I put one can of R134a into it and that brought the pressure up a little bit. I stupidly only bought one can so I figured I would just go get another one and put it in whenever. Now I can't get the AC compressor to cycle. You put too much liquid refrigerant in. The compressor cant compress liquid. Find someone with a proper set of gauges to help you.
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Jul 11, 2011 06:36
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I did this recently too. Luckily, I was able to vent enough refrigerant out before damage was done. I bought myself a cheap high/low pressure manifold gauge set and got my pressures right looking at that. Here's a scan of the pressure graph from my 2001 Workshop Manual:  REFRIGERANT PRESSURE CHECK: 1. Install the manifold gauge set. (See 07-10-2 Manifold Gauge Set Installation.) 2. Open the hood. · 3. Close all the doors and all the windows. 4. Warm up the engine and run it at a constant 1 ,500 rpm . 5. Turn the'A/C switch on. 6. Set the fan switch to 4th speed. 7. Set the REC/FRESH lever to REC. 8. Set the mode dial to VENT. 9. Set the temperature control dial to MAX COLD. 10. Measure the high- and low-pressure side readings of the manifold gauge. • If the high- and low-pressure side readings are in the shaded zones as shown in the figure, the refrigerant system is normal. • If the high- and low-pressure side readings are not as specified, troubleshoot the refrigerant system.
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Jul 11, 2011 07:50
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Sadi posted:So im looking to pick up a miata as a second car for autocross and weekend duity. not really looking to spend much. Are there any red flags here (other than dumb wheels, he does not have the stock wheels). The plan is to eventually turbo it. The guy says he "has a box of turbo stuff that used to be on it before he bought it". But the FM suspension sounds pretty nice to me. So the miata is in rough shape. The previous owner had a wing on the back, had a cheap stereo put in, and had what appears to have been an "JDM" Turbo kit (probably just ebay kit). The suspension was quite nice but the interior and roof were painted black. The painting wasn't well done. Also all the carpet has been striped and the battery was replaced with a full size battery. Paint pealing over the old turbo. Positive: -Low Miles -Nice suspension -Well taken care of by current owner -Has extra set of not huge wheels -Has old turbo hardware and other parts (including stock tail lamps and replacement parts) -Roof is in good shape Negative: -No carpet -Wiring doesn't seem like a pro job (wire going to the ECU seemed to be run through a PVC pipe on the passengers right hand side) -Have no idea what the old turbo kit could have done to the engine (or if any of the parts would be useful for properly doing a turbo later) -Has loud fart can exhaust Wasn't too interested but the current owner said he could do $2600. Its pretty much going to be my first autocross car and a toy to tool around with (plan to eventually run MS+Turbo). Would you guys just walk away from this? My thought was to wait for a higher mile cheaper miata that's stock that I could learn to autocross on before I started changing classes/changing the car to project status. The idea of getting low miles with the LSD and oil pressure gauge are appealing though.
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Jul 12, 2011 16:01
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I would walk away. If you're new to autocross, the additional power will make learning a lot harder, and from the sound of it you'll also be chasing down mechanical issues at the same time. One of the biggest benefits of the Miata as an autocross / track car is that while it handles very well, it doesn't have enough power to mask poor driving - you can't make up time lost due to missing an apex by mashing the gas more.
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Jul 12, 2011 16:37
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I'd walk too, but mostly because it sounds like you could be walking into a hornets nest full of problems and it's not like that car is a screaming deal or anything. You're better off waiting and getting something nicer or something cheaper.
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Jul 13, 2011 08:18
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Ziploc posted:Nice! That's about the same mileage mine had when I bought it. I did the belt then too. Well, I'm going to do a bunch of fluids this weekend - hopefully trans/diff/clutch/brake/oil, anyone have recommendations for trans & diff oil? Was just going to use standard 5 or 10w30 for the oil, and dot 3 for brake and clutch.
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Jul 14, 2011 01:40
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