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This poor, poor sucker. http://lexington.craigslist.org/mcy/2478714575.html quote:you are probably thinking 12,500 is kinda high but i bought all kinds of extra warranties which can be transfered over if purchased. I have the extended warranty which is valued at 800 dollars which is good to have. i also have gap insurance that comes with the bike so if u wreck u dont have to pay the bank back or if u cant pay then the gap insurance gives you money toward your loan which is valued at 600 dollars. I have a tire and wheel warranty so if u damage the tires or wheels then they fix them for free or replace them which is worth 400 dollars. i have roadside assistance that comes with the bike so if u break down they will pay for you a car and to get the bike fixed and give u a motel room until it is fixed. and last i have unlimited batteries for life that comes with the bike which is worth 300 dollars. All of these warrantys and insurances can be transfered over to the next owner and i have all the paper work that comes with it and it all is valued at 2,100 dollars.
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Jul 19, 2011 00:12
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frozenphil posted:This poor, poor sucker. There's one born every minute.
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Jul 19, 2011 03:27
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I think I already know the answer to this, but assuming that this bike is in good condition, good first bike? http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/mcy/2501524382.html
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Jul 19, 2011 05:40
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$1000 asking price? Hell ya.
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Jul 19, 2011 05:54
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HastyDeparture posted:I think I already know the answer to this, but assuming that this bike is in good condition, good first bike? Blarg pod filters but that's not the end of the world. Price means go for it.
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Jul 19, 2011 06:40
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Z3n posted:Blarg pod filters but that's not the end of the world. Price means go for it. That and the low price made me curious, but "assuming the bike is in good condition" yeah. Hell of a deal it looks like.
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Jul 19, 2011 06:48
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What's wrong with pod filters? If he rejetted it will run just fine, and I find them easier to deal with on my S2R.
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Jul 19, 2011 17:39
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A Duck! posted:What's wrong with pod filters? If he rejetted it will run just fine, and I find them easier to deal with on my S2R. Most modern airboxes are designed to take advantage of their size and shape to fill out holes in the midrange. If you lose that effect, then you can create massive holes in midrange that can't be filled with jetting changes. Sort of like losing midrange to boost top end from changing out an exhaust, except generally without a top end boost.
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Jul 19, 2011 18:43
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Z3n posted:Most modern airboxes are designed to take advantage of their size and shape to fill out holes in the midrange. If you lose that effect, then you can create massive holes in midrange that can't be filled with jetting changes. Sort of like losing midrange to boost top end from changing out an exhaust, except generally without a top end boost. This. My 07's midrange is completely gutless now. I'd swap the bike back to stock airbox/exhaust if I felt like spending that much money on it, but I'm probably going to sell it in a few months time anyways.
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Jul 20, 2011 00:22
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Z3n posted:Most modern airboxes are designed to take advantage of their size and shape to fill out holes in the midrange. If you lose that effect, then you can create massive holes in midrange that can't be filled with jetting changes. Sort of like losing midrange to boost top end from changing out an exhaust, except generally without a top end boost. Ah, I guess. On my FI S2R if anything it gave it a bit more low end, rest of the RPM range feels the same. I definitely had to change the ECU, it ran horrifically lean without it.
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Jul 21, 2011 02:19
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A Duck! posted:Ah, I guess. On my FI S2R if anything it gave it a bit more low end, rest of the RPM range feels the same. I definitely had to change the ECU, it ran horrifically lean without it. It varies from bike to bike as to how bad the effect is. On some, the airbox was designed to restrict intake sound and saps power as a result. On most though, you lose more than you gain. Also, if you remapped the bike with the airbox intact (ie, a stock tune), you might have seen large gains anyways from cleaning out the EPA lean spot, maybe even more than you saw from pod filters + remap. As a general rule of thumb, less restrictive intakes and exhausts boost top end at the cost of low end. You also have to find a dyno tuner who is capable of tuning for something besides big numbers. Most people don't care about low end/midrange, they just want a bigger number to compare to their friends.
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Jul 21, 2011 02:25
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Okay, after three or four cycles of window shopping for bikes and gear before chickening out I'm finally biting the bullet and taking the MSF class this weekend and buying a bike before summer ends. Right now I'm leaning toward a Triumph Bonneville. Aside from the fact that I'm going to hate myself for eventually dropping a new bike, is there anything damning about them? I really like the idea of having an upright riding position, saddlebags, and no carburetors to fuss with. This wouldn't be my DD, more of a way to enhance small errands and trips to friends' houses. Also, is it going to be able to haul my 6'3", 260lb goony rear end around? 
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Jul 21, 2011 03:56
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Seriously do not buy new for a first bike. You're going to drop it eventually and if you've got a sense of adventure, you're liable to crash as well.
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Jul 21, 2011 04:36
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Best thing you could do is at least buy a used Bonneville.
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Jul 21, 2011 04:53
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Any bike will pull you around, you aren't that big and 250 ninja's would pull you around. I'm not as elegant as z3n here, but I'll try to be quick. Your first bike is not about image, or riding hard, or looking cool. It's about learning the ins and outs of piloting a motorcycle, and surviving in traffic with cars. There are many things about a motorcycle that are counter intuitive, and you have to spend time learning these things, and retraining the reflexes that you have naturally and from driving a car. Not only are you wrestling with all of that, but there are loving nutters on the street trying to kill you! Crazy drivers and hazards, along with a lack of confidence and inexperience, lead to wrecked bikes and hurt/dead/never again riders. If you want to ride, and do it safely, buy a cheap but reliable starter bike that will give you little trouble. One that will be easy on you when you make a mistake, and won't break your wallet when you tip it over. In a year, if you are a clever buyer, you can likely sell the bike for what you paid for it, and move onto a beautiful Bonnie confident and experienced.
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Jul 21, 2011 05:34
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Take the msf, and put $3k toward two bikes: a ninja 250 and 500. Both bikes, being different and nicely contrastive, will help you inhere the gloriousness of motorcycling. Then sell both for the exact same price next spring, and upgrade.
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Jul 21, 2011 05:48
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I will honestly say, for most cases lol there's my hubris, since I started on a 600 standard, I should say everyone the small bike is the best choice to learn how to ride. I've been riding a ninja 250 we got for my sister the past couple of weeks, and when I got back on my FZ6 it was way harder to ride. The throttle was much more sensitive, even at low revs. Low speed maneuvers were more difficult. The bike is not a great amount bigger compared to a large bike, but it is definitely heavier, and I had to work it into turns a lot more. Of course, I love all the benefits of it, but I must say: I was wrong. Even a 600 standard, while you can start on one without dying, is the wrong bike to get if you want to learn how to ride easily and smoothly. Get something easy to ride and forgiving, and have a long time of riding motorcycles well.
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Jul 21, 2011 05:56
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How is the Suzuki Tu250? It kinda looks like the triumph if I squint but it's a 250cc and 2/3 the weight. I'm not really interested in a sportbike because 1) I would probably kill myself on one (by wanting to pilot it like a sportbike) 2) Riding position I can see myself owning a ninja 250 as a second bike, though. BaronW fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Jul 21, 2011 |
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Jul 21, 2011 06:26
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A good starter, potentially in the Suzuki, get on one to check it. Don't let the image of a ninja fool you either, a ninja 250 looks like a sport bike but rides like a standard. It isn't the only option, either. There are other 250s, and bikes like the Suzuki GS500 that are more naked. It will be small, the suzuki, get on one for sure because the bars may touch your knees. The point is, don't get your ideal bike as a first bike. For your size there are plenty of cruisers or standards that are in the 500(inline and vtwin, they make power differently)-650(for vtwins and older I4s) range that will fit the criteria of "leaner bike". Not too powerful, and a big enough size that you aren't huge on it. VVVVVVVV While cool, and I'm totally down for that style, I think it's awful advice for a new rider. That, and I have a new gen, they aren't as pretty without plastics. VVVVVVVV nsaP fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jul 21, 2011 |
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Jul 21, 2011 06:31
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BaronW posted:How is the Suzuki Tu250? It kinda looks like the triumph if I squint but it's a 250cc and 2/3 the weight. I'm not really interested in a sportbike because Get a ninja250 for your first bike, seriously. Take the fairings off, stick a big ol' headlamp on there and throw on some paint and  boom you have a new bike
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Jul 21, 2011 06:36
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http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/DIY_Fairing_Removal Here's a new gen, with some black plastics still, but you get the idea. Not so pretty, the old ones win that battle. Maybe a belly pan could help out. 
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Jul 21, 2011 06:47
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Going to go against the CA hivemind here as I am wont to do and say DO NOT get a Ninja 250. Yes its cheap, but it will get painfully slow in a hurry and you will get bored of it fast unless you're just a boring person. If you want a Triumph modern classic, then get one. Just get a used one, you'll hate yourself if you do something stupid and drop your shiny new bike cause you have no experience.
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Jul 21, 2011 07:46
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On that post I want to clarify that I was just pointing out the benefits on the ninjette in relation to other people's posts. It's a fine first bike, lacking on the highway in crazy areas(in my opinion ffs), but like I said above you could find a nice standard around 500 or a vtwin 535-650 and be fine as a starter. Listen to the second sentence of redscare's, not the first. Have a beautiful Bonneville in a year.
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Jul 21, 2011 07:49
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Thank you very much for your useful feedback. I'm seeing the exact same thing that happens in TFR - it's way better to start on a .22lr and move up once you've mastered the fundamentals. Everyone who's ignored that advice and purchased a .22 later (yo) always wishes it had been their first. So for now I'm looking at honda shadows, the TU250 (EFI!), and cheap supermotos. And yes, I'll give the Ninja a shot. It looks like the secondhand Bonneville market is limited and too close to $new.
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Jul 21, 2011 08:38
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redscare posted:Going to go against the CA hivemind here as I am wont to do and say DO NOT get a Ninja 250. Yes its cheap, but it will get painfully slow in a hurry and you will get bored of it fast unless you're just a boring person. If you can only have fun on a >250cc bike you should probably just hand your license back.
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Jul 21, 2011 09:39
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Shouting Melon posted:If you can only have fun on a >250cc bike you should probably just hand your license back. Why? Is it a violation of unwritten motorcycle law to enjoy bigger bikes? Go spend a day on a 250cc cruiser and tell me how much fun you had, relative to whatever you are riding now. That said, don't buy a new Bonneville as a first bike -- besides being expensive, having just test ridden one there are a lot better bikes out there for the money IMO.
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Jul 21, 2011 11:36
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redscare posted:Going to go against the CA hivemind here as I am wont to do and say DO NOT get a Ninja 250. Yes its cheap, but it will get painfully slow in a hurry and you will get bored of it fast unless you're just a boring person.  Maybe we have different ideas of "slow" and "boring", though.
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Jul 21, 2011 14:28
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nm that's not a motogp photo is it
King Nothing fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Jul 21, 2011 |
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Jul 21, 2011 14:58
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A Ninja 250 has like 28 horsepower, which makes it about even with a Subaru WRX in an 0-60 race. A 250R with proper tires (they usually don't get outfitted with those by P.O.'s, sadly) is unholy fun.
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Jul 21, 2011 15:22
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the walkin dude posted:A 250R with proper tires (they usually don't get outfitted with those by P.O.'s, sadly) is unholy fun. This is really key. The difference between the stock tires and even Pirelli Sport Demons is massive. Where the stock tires would slide and skip through corners, the Pirellis stay planted. Only down side to that is now you can feel the inadequacies in the suspension. :/
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Jul 21, 2011 16:06
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Anything wrong with 636's, that I should look out for? 
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Jul 21, 2011 16:10
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the walkin dude posted:Anything wrong with 636's, that I should look out for?  Nooooooooo.......the hivemind...........
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Jul 21, 2011 18:40
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the walkin dude posted:Anything wrong with 636's, that I should look out for? No! They're perfect, buy one. just the usual poo poo, tires,brakes,chain/sprockets.
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Jul 21, 2011 18:45
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nsaP posted:
I'm already part of the SV hivemind, may as well join another 
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Jul 21, 2011 18:56
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Z3n posted:It varies from bike to bike as to how bad the effect is. On some, the airbox was designed to restrict intake sound and saps power as a result. On most though, you lose more than you gain. Also, if you remapped the bike with the airbox intact (ie, a stock tune), you might have seen large gains anyways from cleaning out the EPA lean spot, maybe even more than you saw from pod filters + remap. As a general rule of thumb, less restrictive intakes and exhausts boost top end at the cost of low end. You also have to find a dyno tuner who is capable of tuning for something besides big numbers. Most people don't care about low end/midrange, they just want a bigger number to compare to their friends. Yeah, definitely. Mine flat out runs better with the pods than the stock monster airbox, it has some sort of billet venturis that came with the pod kit, that I guess help give it the restriction it needs or what not. I had it tuned before and after I put in my big bore kit, and the same with the pods, and it really opened up the low end. Although honestly I'll admit the whole reason for it was less performance and to clean up the ugly monster airbox cluttering up the front end of the bike. And chock me in with one of those people who say not to buy a Ninja 250 as your first bike, you'll outgrow it fast. That being said, I kind of want an older one to rip the fairings off and dong around in, something I don't mind thrashing.
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Jul 21, 2011 19:23
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You don't outgrow bikes! Arghhhh
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Jul 21, 2011 19:33
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Contacted a guy who's selling a silver 636, with 12k miles. He says he's the 3rd owner and got it from someone who had it sitting for a couple years, 2 months ago. He says that along with an oil change he replaced the coolant fluids, spark plugs, and the valve head gasket. That rose a eyebrow for me... it was leaking? Yep. He's a mechanic working at a local Midas so he's at least more knowledgeable than the average joe. Is that, the formerly leaky gasket, something to be afraid of? it's this one: http://rochester.craigslist.org/mcy/2505624083.html nevertheless, I'll be testriding it tomorrow morning...
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Jul 21, 2011 19:41
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A Duck! posted:And chock me in with one of those people who say not to buy a Ninja 250 as your first bike, you'll outgrow it fast. That being said, I kind of want an older one to rip the fairings off and dong around in, something I don't mind thrashing. Disagree on the whole outgrow thing. But I'd love to strip down a Ninjette down to the basics or make one of those Suzuki Savage-based Ryca cafe racers or whatever. Something low-powered that you can ride pretty much balls-out everywhere without getting into too much trouble.
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Jul 21, 2011 19:48
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I started out on a GS500 which I think would be a better idea to start out on. Even a Ninja 500 would be a better idea. However even with my GS500 being forgiving on the throttle and all I didn't start to build up confidence in cornering and all that until I got my SV650 with the better suspension. Going back to my older brother's GS500 I realize just how much those bikes feel like they "fall over" in a turn where as on my SV650 its a much more deliberate action that I feel I have more control over. I think one of the first things I want to do to my brother's bike is to fit a wider rear wheel and see what effect that has on the handling.
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Jul 21, 2011 21:20
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Coredump posted:I started out on a GS500 which I think would be a better idea to start out on. Even a Ninja 500 would be a better idea. However even with my GS500 being forgiving on the throttle and all I didn't start to build up confidence in cornering and all that until I got my SV650 with the better suspension. Going back to my older brother's GS500 I realize just how much those bikes feel like they "fall over" in a turn where as on my SV650 its a much more deliberate action that I feel I have more control over. I think one of the first things I want to do to my brother's bike is to fit a wider rear wheel and see what effect that has on the handling. Fix the suspension and check the tires first. You might prefer a more rounded profile tire to the more angular ones. If you don't like quick/responsive steering, then tires like the Pilot Powers are not for you. That "fall over" is usually as a result of flat spotted tires. You have to force it over as the tire climbs the edge and then a sudden "Oh poo poo!" as it climbs the peak of the flattened rubber and you lose some contact patch and it steers real fast all of the sudden. A wider rear wheel is going to slow down steering but the correct thing to do is sort out the basics first...make sure everything is at stock ride height, get the springs swapped for something that doesn't sag like hell the second anyone with real weight sits on the bike, etc. the walkin dude posted:Contacted a guy who's selling a silver 636, with 12k miles. He says he's the 3rd owner and got it from someone who had it sitting for a couple years, 2 months ago. He says that along with an oil change he replaced the coolant fluids, spark plugs, and the valve head gasket. That rose a eyebrow for me... it was leaking? Yep. He's a mechanic working at a local Midas so he's at least more knowledgeable than the average joe. Depends on why it was leaking. I've never had to replace a valve cover gasket. I have had one fold over a leak a bit when I didn't seat it properly though, but it didn't require replacement. If he's talking about the head gasket/base gasket leaking, I'd walk. I don't want anyone inside of an engine but the factory before I get to it. Too many idiots out there. I'd probably offer 4k. KARMA! posted:You don't outgrow bikes! Arghhhh Yeah but you do get bored with them. I don't agree with the outgrowing, but I do agree with replacing a bike when you get bored with it, as long as you understand what you're getting yourself into. Anyone who rides long enough will start to understand the appeal of the small bikes after awhile, it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow. If you're willing to sacrifice your progression as a rider, moving up quickly isn't really the end of the world. The things that get people into trouble usually aren't the brakes or gas once you're past the newb phase, it's riding like a dong.
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Jul 21, 2011 21:58
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