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TrueChaos posted:Well, I'm going to do a bunch of fluids this weekend - hopefully trans/diff/clutch/brake/oil, anyone have recommendations for trans & diff oil? Was just going to use standard 5 or 10w30 for the oil, and dot 3 for brake and clutch. I used Redline MTL for manual trans fluid, it's done well. Haven't changed my diff juice yet, so, got nothing for you there. Speaking of transmission stuff - does anyone else have issues going from 1st to 2nd if you're winding it out and don't rev match? Maybe my Redline recommendation is too hasty? 
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Jul 14, 2011 01:55
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I have an issue with my 99 It's got 80k miles and is sometimes having hesitation problems when cold, usually at part throttle and around 2000-4000rpm. I'm also getting a bit of black soot on the bumper above the exhaust, and an intermittent P0420 code. I'm thinking the coils may be going out. Is this the only test I can do for them? Anyone have any good spare coils they'd like to sell? 
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Jul 14, 2011 02:06
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televiper posted:I used Redline MTL for manual trans fluid, it's done well. Haven't changed my diff juice yet, so, got nothing for you there. I grind at high rev's in 2nd/3rd gear all the time. I'm hoping it'll go away when I change fluids (PO did last transmission fluid job). For diff fluid, just use some synthetic 75w90. I chose Mobil 1 as the price of Royal Purple seemed arbitrary to me.
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Jul 14, 2011 02:35
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aventari posted:I have an issue with my 99 Sounds like we're bad coilpack buddies. I finally just got my replacement in the mail today and hope to install it tomorrow.
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Jul 14, 2011 04:00
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Where'd you get it and how much??
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Jul 14, 2011 05:47
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televiper posted:I used Redline MTL for manual trans fluid, it's done well. Haven't changed my diff juice yet, so, got nothing for you there. I run MTL and it's been fine for coming up on 2 years... although I got a few grinds going from 3-2 today. Ugh 
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Jul 14, 2011 19:09
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Did this too my doors Same jank as everyone else. Think I should I keep it like this?
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Jul 15, 2011 02:37
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Yes, keep it. I think it looks amazing.
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Jul 15, 2011 02:42
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The padding on the top of my passenger side door is loose, are there any guides? I don't know where to start and don't want to waste much time.
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Jul 15, 2011 02:56
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destructo posted:The padding on the top of my passenger side door is loose, are there any guides? I don't know where to start and don't want to waste much time. Probably going to have to replace the entire card.
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Jul 15, 2011 03:42
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It's made of brittle as poo poo plastic. Just CA glue it in place.
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Jul 15, 2011 03:58
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Piano posted:Did this too my doors That's looks super sweet. Keep it.
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Jul 15, 2011 04:20
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FatCow posted:It's made of brittle as poo poo plastic. Just CA glue it in place. Yeah it's held on by 4 or 5 tiny screws, that connect to the really brittle pastic part of the upper door padding. Don't know the proper way to fix it, I reinforced it with JB weld mainly because, well, it's hidden and no one can tell anyway. edit:  I guess I shouldn't have kept passing on the $800/900 tops all year. Could have doubled my money! In before the spastic goon "  it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay " speech.
Jean Eric Burn fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jul 17, 2011 |
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Jul 15, 2011 04:38
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Piano, Those door panels look great. And regarding hard tops, there are still deals to be found, probably not on ebay though. I was on the Seattle CL the other day and there was an OEM non defrost HT in need of painting for $800. Not too bad. On my own Miata front, I finally got my new coil pack in yesterday (and changed my plugs while I was at it), got the car started up and while I wasn't getting a CEL, it did still chug. My code reader stated P303 pending. Blargh. So today my hope is to try cleaning the Cam Position Sensor to see if that helps, if it doesn't, I guess I'll order a new one, and maybe a crank position sensor as well.
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Jul 17, 2011 17:17
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Having never done a long distance car purchase before, I'm wondering if there is a guide I can look at regarding do's and don'ts. I've got a line on a 97 STO, but its about 6 hours away from me. Is there a single list of all the major items to look at before purchasing a NA?
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Jul 18, 2011 17:44
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I'm sure there's something on the miata.net forum if you look around. My opinion? Get a carfax. Have them take a ton of pics as well. Ask for pics of the metal under the car in front of the rear wheels (for rust) and the undercarriage. Most of the engine stuff is pretty trivial since these motors are fairly reliable. Wouldn't hurt to ask for a compression test though. If they're not willing take the time to do this stuff, I'd pass. These cars are a dime a dozen, I wouldn't travel that far unless it was a really good deal or it is the exact car you're looking for.
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Jul 18, 2011 22:40
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The STO is nothing to write home about, to be quite honest. It's a huge risk to drive out all the way there, just for it to be a pile of poo poo. Ask for a ton of photos.
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Jul 18, 2011 23:00
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After getting the VIN and build info from mazda, I'm in agreement here. I was working off of the http://www.miata.net/faq/america/1997.html info on the STO, and misread it a bit. From Mazda its essentially the base model with special paint and a shift knob. No LSD available, no Popular Equipment pack... welp. I think I'll pass and keep digging for an 97 M edition. As an aside, how in the hell can I search for that on Craigslist? I've tried every nested quote I can think of, but it keeps excluding the "M" in "M Edition". Any thoughts?
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Jul 19, 2011 18:21
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Perhaps try "95M" or "97M" or anything like that?
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Jul 19, 2011 18:31
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E: Blah nevermind. Craigslist doesn't support regular expressions or metacharacters for poo poo.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jul 19, 2011 |
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Jul 19, 2011 18:43
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I've tried both of those ideas - "M%20Edition" still results in: The following common or short search term was skipped: m as for 96M or 97M, that tends to pull more BMWs than I'm looking for. I just want a 96 or 97 M edition, I didn't think it'd be this much work to set up a search for them.
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Jul 19, 2011 19:26
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You realize you can specifically exclude BMWs right? You could try... miata (96M|97M|96|97) -bmw That type of thing. There's an explanation here... http://www.craigslist.org/about/help/search
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Jul 19, 2011 20:44
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I have a stupid Miata question, just how big / small is the boot? Looking at photos it doesn't look too tiny but I can't really judge it. I might be going to look at one tomorrow but if somebody could fill me in in the meantime that would be great.
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Jul 21, 2011 22:48
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5 cubic feet.
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Jul 21, 2011 22:51
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jammyozzy posted:I have a stupid Miata question, just how big / small is the boot? Looking at photos it doesn't look too tiny but I can't really judge it. I might be going to look at one tomorrow but if somebody could fill me in in the meantime that would be great. Big enough. Just take the spare out.
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Jul 21, 2011 23:07
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Blaise posted:Big enough. Just take the spare out. Get a NB which has the spare mounted down below the trunk space the way it should be. 
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Jul 21, 2011 23:10
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I'm now on official "looking for a grey or orange '05 Mazdaspeed with leather seats" watch, on the off chance that anyone actually knows of one for sale. I'm looking to trade up from my '01, since five years of being a work car has left the interior kind of beat up.
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Jul 21, 2011 23:13
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God I miss my Miata! I had one for about 10 years and had to sell my most recent one last year. I had a 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata that was red with cloth top and black interior. This was in April of last year near Colorado.  This is my favorite picture of the car, taken a few days after I waxed it:   If anyone is interested I have the original rotors from the car, and the mazdaspeed mirror. I changed the rotors when the car was nearly brand new because I was planing to drive the car on the track in Oklahoma, plus I don't like how the stock rotors rust up so fast. If I were going to reuse them myself, I'd paint the non-braking surface with high-temp paint like my new rotors had.  And a voodoo aluminum shifter knob  I also have a set of inexpensive 15" alloy wheels I used for winter tires. Still has 3 Nokian Hakkapeliitta tires on it, but I lost one on the way home from BC last year and had to replace it with an all-season tire so I could get home. My previous Miata was a 2002 SE Gunmetal grey, had the regular tan interior but had these beautiful saddle brown leather seats. I don't know if I still have any pictures of it. As much as I hated the tan interior of these miatas, I sure missed it during the summer with my Miataspeed. One thing I learned several years ago that's essential for driving any car, but especially the miata with the top up, is the proper set-up of your interior and side mirrors. Here's a good page that explains it better than I could: http://pages.cs.wisc.edu/~gdguo/driving/BlindSpot.htm Basically, the inside mirror is for looking straigh behind you, and the side mirrors should be pointed at your blind spots, which are huge on the Miata. That's probably why I hardly ever do shoulder blindspot checks, because I couldn't in the Miata with the top up generally, at least not without sticking my head out the window... rocket fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Jul 25, 2011 |
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Jul 23, 2011 02:11
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rocket posted:One thing I learned several years ago that's essential for driving any car, It should be noted that it is practically impossible to back into a parking spot with the mirrors configured this way. I finally got fed up with having to adjust my mirrors to backup and grabbed a set of those fish eye mirrors instead.
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Jul 23, 2011 02:43
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Tire wear question - while my tires are garbage (and I doubt they were ever really rotated) they've got pretty severe wear along the inside edge of the rear tires. Looks kinda like this, except the rest of the tread is worn much farther down. What does this indicate, other than the previous owner really should have rotated their tires? I'm guessing excessive negative camber, I'm just not sure if thats how a miata is supposed to be aligned
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Jul 23, 2011 04:45
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What suspension do you have? Stock? FM? Ground Control sleeves, etc?
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Jul 23, 2011 05:13
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Phone posted:What suspension do you have? Stock, with ~125000km
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Jul 23, 2011 05:25
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Replace your shocks with Koni yellows, maybe get new tophats. Camber in the front: as much as possible (but equal on both sides) Camber in the rear: .5 offset from the front Toe in front: 0 Toe in rear: 1/16" in Caster: 4-5 degrees The loved Lanny alignment is kinda aggressive, but it doesn't eat tires (-1.2 front, -1.7 rear, toe is zeroed, caster 5 degrees). Just make sure that there is half a degree difference between the rear and front.
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Jul 23, 2011 05:32
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Phone posted:Replace your shocks with Koni yellows, maybe get new tophats. Cool, thanks. Will put it on the list of things for next summer. I'm guessing the wear is due to mostly dead shocks? Would there be any way to confirm, other than the tire wear? Also, the fronts are evenly worn - would it be stupid to rotate the tires, in light of the uneven wear on the back?
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Jul 23, 2011 07:20
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I'd suspect incorrect toe, but it's almost impossible to say over the internet. There's an old fashioned way to measure toe with lengths of string but it's almost not even worth taking the time, alignments are relatively cheap.
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Jul 23, 2011 09:03
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Last time i got an alignment that i specified they charged me extra for what they called "Exotic alignment". In hindsight i feel like that is for exotic cars that are a pain in the rear end to work on, and i got ripped off It shouldnt really be any more work than doing a factory alignment, right?
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Jul 23, 2011 11:44
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Piano posted:I'd suspect incorrect toe, but it's almost impossible to say over the internet. Hmm. Well, at this point I'm probably not going to worry about it until I replace the tires, but thanks! From everything I've read, koni yellows + GC's seem to be a favorite for a lot of people, but are relatively expensive. I'm looking for a setup that'd be good for autox - would yellows + stock springs --> Upgraded springs when I can afford them be better than FM Vmaxx's?
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Jul 24, 2011 22:51
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Last time i got an alignment that i specified they charged me extra for what they called "Exotic alignment". In hindsight i feel like that is for exotic cars that are a pain in the rear end to work on, and i got ripped off In my experience, places can be retarded and scammy about alignments pretty often. I've seen them do stuff like try to charge for a "Four wheel" alignment when the only thing adjustable is front toe, claim they can't adjust suspension settings that they can, getting the steering wheel angle off because they didn't even check, and they always seem to try to zero everything regardless of specs. You didn't say how much extra they charged, but I would think that's a pretty lovely charge unless they can and do adjust every possible thing (as in camber, caster, and toe on every corner) and actually get you set up right.
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Jul 24, 2011 23:14
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TrueChaos posted:Hmm. Well, at this point I'm probably not going to worry about it until I replace the tires, but thanks! Vmaxx is trash If you're going to be there and are looking to do do any autox in CSP, it's worth trying to set up your own GC package. If you do GC sleeves + Konis and NB tophats, you'll be able to set decent times at autox and not break the bank. There's a lot of poo poo out there.
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Jul 24, 2011 23:31
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Phone posted:Vmaxx is trash Basically all I'm looking for is decent times without breaking the bank, so it sounds like GC sleeves + konis are the way to go. Is it an okay idea to get the konis w/ stock springs, and then grab the GC sleeves when I can afford them, or would it be better to wait until I can get it done in one go? I've got an NB, I'm guessing the NB tophats bit is for a conversion from NA?
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Jul 24, 2011 23:47
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