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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Superbike-Desmosedici-RR-D16RR-/140581868372?pt=US_motorcycles&hash=item20bb551354 Perfect bike for a first time rider
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Jul 25, 2011 03:43
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Probably Hates You posted:Kawasaki of Burbank less than 2 miles from me has a black, non-ABS version in stock and I'm hoping I can get that dealer to match the others price save for the sliders. Haha... good luck with Kawasaki of Burbank. They are known for actually telling people to leave the showroom unless you're buying NOW. They also used to run ads on craigslist that said not to bother calling unless you were ready to come in and buy.
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Jul 25, 2011 06:07
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wilkenm posted:Haha... good luck with Kawasaki of Burbank. They are known for actually telling people to leave the showroom unless you're buying NOW. They also used to run ads on craigslist that said not to bother calling unless you were ready to come in and buy. They are a bag of assholes. I got nothing but blatant upselling tactics on every product when I was just starting out and looking for some actual advice on gloves, other gear, disc locks and other stuff. Hollywood Honda's been decent to me, though as soon as I find a place selling individual gaskets for less than $7 a pop I'm moving in next door.
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Jul 25, 2011 15:44
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Looks like I'm DEFINITELY going with Simi then. Z3n, thanks for the tips about the 750. I've never really considered that till now, and while I'm set on the zx10 and doing all the upgrade work myself I'll look around at 750s and start some pricing. I know where you're coming from and it would be stupid to dismiss that advice. I know of a couple people selling 750s around here so I'll go ahead and set up some talks. How much do you know about the Bazzaz TC systems?
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Jul 25, 2011 17:04
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If you're going to do trackdays/racing and you're comfortable backing the bike in and responding precisely to your every movement you won't like the Bazzaz. All of the fast WERA racers I know hate it because it does stuff you don't want it to do. Sometimes you want the rear end loose or whatnot. It's a pretty expensive system too -- everything I've heard says to stay away from it, but in the end it comes down to preference/comfort level on the bike.
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Jul 25, 2011 17:36
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Probably Hates You posted:Looks like I'm DEFINITELY going with Simi then. My thing with track riding is if you're going to the track, you're going to want to go fast, and you're actually going to go fastest on something like a GSX-R750 vs. a ZX10. The 750 is like an overgrown 600, but the literbikes are in a different league of stupid fast, and the problem with that is it's hard to learn good riding techniques when you're starting on a literbike, because you're going to have to take a solid amount of time of adjusting to using the power, let alone driving it off the corners as quickly as possible. This is why smaller bikes are recommended for track use. If you're gonna be using it on the street, too, a 750 is a good compromise. I'd look for something like this: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366687 That one has been sold but they're out there. Check WERA forums/etc. I haven't used the Bazzaz TC stuff personally but I know a few people who swear by it. You gotta tune it until it fits what YOU want though. I love tweaking setup on my bikes, so that's not a downside for me, and having the additional control over the system beyond just traction control level 1-5 or whatever is key. -Inu- posted:If you're going to do trackdays/racing and you're comfortable backing the bike in and responding precisely to your every movement you won't like the Bazzaz. All of the fast WERA racers I know hate it because it does stuff you don't want it to do. Sometimes you want the rear end loose or whatnot. It's a pretty expensive system too -- everything I've heard says to stay away from it, but in the end it comes down to preference/comfort level on the bike. I have a hard time believing this considering it's entirely customizable. If you want it to spin you can just dial it back until it lets you spin it at whatever speed you like. Maybe if you set it with just the street setup and never bothered to modify it. Not to mention that the Bazzaz is an ignition control system and is going to have nothing to do with backing it in. Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Jul 25, 2011 |
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Jul 25, 2011 17:51
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Z3n posted:I have a hard time believing this considering it's entirely customizable. If you want it to spin you can just dial it back until it lets you spin it at whatever speed you like. Maybe if you set it with just the street setup and never bothered to modify it. Not to mention that the Bazzaz is an ignition control system and is going to have nothing to do with backing it in.
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Jul 25, 2011 18:11
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I'm currently reading up on the Bazzaz TC system and looking at classifieds for 750s. I definitely don't want an already built track bike so my search is much broader now. There certainly isn't a lack of 05/06 GSXR-705s in socal, that's for sure. Like I said I'm fairly set on the 10 despite the advice, but at the same time if I can find an 05+ 750 by the end of the week that I'm happy with and I can do a mock setup in my head of everything I'll need I'll jump at it. I like the thought of having something that is retardedly fast  but I also want to be the best rider I can be. And if there are lessons to be learned on a 750 that I would never pick up on the 10 if I start with it, it would be foolish to do so. Would you say this is the case or would it just take me longer to pick up on? Keep in mind that I'm very open-minded and your advice has a lot of clout as I've definitely come to respect it on these forums but the 10 is definitely the bike of my dreams and something I'd be happy with 5-6 years down the line. Which is more than I could probably say about the 750.It looks like Bazzaz makes a product that attaches to a handle bar that lets you dial in the TC on the fly so I'll probably end up picking one of those up if I can find a 750 I'm satisfied with. I'm pretty serious about building a very good track bike right now, how much would you estimate the cost of parts like exhaust, suspention, tuning, body work, ect. would run on something like a 750? While it would be much more financially responsible of me to buy a bike that's already race prepped I'm nerding out almost as hard about building the bike up as I am riding it.
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Jul 25, 2011 18:50
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quote:Like I said I'm fairly set on the 10 despite the advice, but at the same time if I can find an 05+ 750 by the end of the week that I'm happy with and I can do a mock setup in my head of everything I'll need I'll jump at it. I like the thought of having something that is retardedly fast Honestly, it's not that the lessons can't be learned, it's that they're going to be easier to learn on a slower bike. If you're willing to accept that you're going to be slower for a longer period of time because you're starting on the higher horsepower bike, that's the tradeoff. I can promise you that you will go slower on the 1000 or the 750 than you will on a 600. You can tell the literbike riders, even in the A group, because they drive out of the corner slower, pull a little bit down the middle 1/3rd of the straight, and then lose out heavily on the brakes when they shut off early. I rarely felt significantly down on power on my SV650, and I never felt down on power on my 600, because 90% of riders out there aren't capable of holding the throttle pinned down the entire front straight until they hit the braking zone. And that's not even a technique or a skill, it's just learning to open the throttle. Have you had a chance to do a trackday yet? The biggest thing about going from street to track is that the straights are a LOT shorter. Especially at a track like streets of willow, even a 600 is a handful there, a literbike is just insane. quote:It looks like Bazzaz makes a product that attaches to a handle bar that lets you dial in the TC on the fly so I'll probably end up picking one of those up if I can find a 750 I'm satisfied with. I'm pretty serious about building a very good track bike right now, how much would you estimate the cost of parts like exhaust, suspention, tuning, body work, ect. would run on something like a 750? While it would be much more financially responsible of me to buy a bike that's already race prepped I'm nerding out almost as hard about building the bike up as I am riding it. Why do you want to do all that stuff yourself? Find a bike with the work already done to it, because if you buy retail (and you will have to, for a 2011 ZX10), you're looking at 1500 in management stuff (bazzaz, EMPro, Dynojet, for a quickshifter/tuning setup/TC), 1500 in a full exhaust, 500 for track fairings + painting, 300 or so in tuning, another grand + in suspension revalve/respring, plus there's a dozen other things to spend money on, like lightweight subframes, race fairing stays, lap timer, clipons, rearsets, different sprockets, case savers, upgraded pads, upgraded master cylinder, quality brake fluid fluid, etc. On BARF right now you can pick up a nice 600, with ohlins front and rear (~3k for the set alone), track plastics, sliders, management software, rearsets, clipons, etc. etc. etc. for 5-6k. Literally turn key, go riding. That additional 8k you're saving could buy you a second bike and half a dozen trackdays, or a lot of quality instruction with a good coach, or a shitload of trackdays and tires. The other thing is: Once your bike is properly set up for the track and you start getting fast you're going to need to revalve and respring more aggressively. My SV650 was unrideable on the street because the valving and springs were so stiff for a track set up (2 spring rates higher than typical for my weight). So any bike you get fast enough on will eventually become useless on the street. If you want to learn to go fast, buy a proper, race prepped 600 that's a few years out of date, and spend your money on tracktime.
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Jul 25, 2011 19:47
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Just passed the MSF course and found a 1981 Yamaha XS400 on craigslist for cheap. I know the Ninja 250 and SV650 are frequently touted as great beginner bikes. Aside from potential reliability issues of an older bike, are there any reasons not to look at the smaller displacement older bikes?
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Jul 25, 2011 20:27
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Lord Fizzlebottom posted:Just passed the MSF course and found a 1981 Yamaha XS400 on craigslist for cheap. I know the Ninja 250 and SV650 are frequently touted as great beginner bikes. Aside from potential reliability issues of an older bike, are there any reasons not to look at the smaller displacement older bikes? Nope. As beginner bikes, cheaper is better, because you're going to see less depreciation from age and if you drop it.
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Jul 25, 2011 21:11
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You make some very, very good points. I haven't had a chance to do a track day yet so what you're saying is very eye opening. Honestly I want to do all the work myself because I think it'll be an awesome project, and because I'm a sick masochist that loves the idea of putting sweat, blood, and time into finding, installing, and fine tuning everything starting from scratch. That being said I think what's driving me the most to drat the logic in buying a race-prepped 600/750 is what I said earlier. While I know a 600 or a 750 will be plenty fast now, and I'll learn quicker on them. The 10r is everything I want and more, and I know I'll be happy with it in a couple years. fake edit: I don't mean to imply my mind is already made up. It most definitely isn't. I'm looking at 750s as I type this and will probably go looking at used ones after work. DAMNIT. I feel like a kid in a candy shop.
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Jul 25, 2011 21:34
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Probably Hates You posted:You make some very, very good points. I haven't had a chance to do a track day yet so what you're saying is very eye opening. You need to get out to the track before you buy a trackbike. Seriously. Drop whatever else, and go ride a trackday before you buy a trackbike. Don't get me wrong, I'm not against putting work into a bike. I built my GSX-R, I regularly buy and sell bikes because I like working on them. But trust me when I say, just fixing the idiocy of the PO is going to be a handful. My GSX-R racebike only cost me about 3500$ all in, in production spec. I parted it out for over 4500 when it was all said and done. I put a lot of work into that bike, it was definitely my bike when it was all said and done, but I did it in such a way that I didn't have to spend a shitload of money on it, instead I spent my time. If it's that important to you to start from scratch, start with an older, stock bike with relatively low miles and you'll have all of the joys of pulling apart a new bike at half the cost. That half the cost can go into mods instead. If you really want something crazy fast with TC, I'd be buying a BMW S1000RR anyways. You can get a race prepped bike for around the OTD cost of a new ZX10, and have a better bike for the bargain. The only reason to buy a new bike is if you're going to try and put hundreds of thousands of miles on it. Otherwise, turning that key is 2k in depreciation immediately, not to mention the devaluation if you crash it, even if you don't do any damage. If you do damage to it, you're looking at thousands of dollars in replacement costs as there are no spares out there, rather than the hundreds of picking up some used parts off of ebay. Trackbikes aren't pretty or posing toys, they're functional bikes that are going to get crashed, beat up, and abused. You have to expect that sometime in your first year of track riding you're going to crash your bike. I did it twice at the very end of my first year, one minor lowside and one complete yard sale that destroyed 25% of the parts on my bike. On my SV650 that was annoying, but not horribly expensive. On a new ZX10, you may as well just buy a replacement one and start swapping your mods over, because finding used replacements for that stuff is going to be impossible. I won't track a Kawasaki unless I get a deal that comes with a complete set of spares, or ideally, a second bike. That 2 year revision cycle is cool but means you end up getting murdered pricewise on spares. Don't worry about having to put blood, sweat, and tears into tuning your bike, it's gonna happen if you buy something new or something used.
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Jul 25, 2011 22:16
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Just finished my MSF, going to get my M1 in a couple of weeks. What do you guys think of this as a starter bike? I know a lot of people love this bike but I was wondering about the mileage - does it seem high? What about the price? 2001 GS500, 23k miles, $1750 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/2512621644.html I'm also considering this: 1984 Honda Shadow VT 700 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/2511161373.html A friend (and the internet) recommended the GS. I am also throwing the cruiser in there because I think it would be more comfortable for a passenger. So if any passengers have ridden on either bike, I would be interested to hear your input also. numba1wonga fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jul 25, 2011 |
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Jul 25, 2011 23:23
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+1 on the GS, see if he'll take 1500$ I shop in the same area and have seen the same ad. Check the last time the valve adjustment was done, otherwise check the usual tires, chain and sprockets, brakes, etc.
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Jul 26, 2011 00:06
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Z3n posted:Nope. As beginner bikes, cheaper is better, because you're going to see less depreciation from age and if you drop it. And the lower the value of the bike the cheaper it is to insure. I pay $19 a month on the old SV for full coverage and I'm a 22 year old male rider. Can't beat it.
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Jul 26, 2011 00:25
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Z3n posted:a kick in the nuts Welp, I'm sold. When it's put like that it's really hard to argue I have to admit. Plus, at that rate I'll be able to get a used DRZ for the street as well.
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Jul 26, 2011 01:28
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Probably Hates You posted:That being said I think what's driving me the most to drat the logic in buying a race-prepped 600/750 is what I said earlier. While I know a 600 or a 750 will be plenty fast now, and I'll learn quicker on them. The 10r is everything I want and more, and I know I'll be happy with it in a couple years. If you plan on doing a lot of track days I'll second what Z3n said and recommend buying a used, track-prepped bike. I'm probably the person you were referring to in regards to the streetable trackbike (unless someone else around here made a thread about it recently  ). I bought my R6 for $4000 as a street bike (it only had ASV levers, stainless lines, K&N filter, small things like that). I had to buy race bodywork, clipons, rearsets, rear spring, tank sliders, among other small things. In total I've probably spent an additional $2000 (not retail cost) on the bike to do everything that it has today. I've seen decked out R6's with full Ohlins floating around for $4500. It's a big loss to buy all of the parts and stuff yourself and you'll regret it in the future.
-Inu- fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jul 26, 2011 |
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Jul 26, 2011 01:45
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yeah, you were the one I was referring to about a streetable track bike. Thanks for reaffirming what Z3n said. If I had any doubt it was gone by the time I read your post. I'm checking out an 05 750 in about an hour with 12,000 miles on it and it's already race prepped. Guy is asking 5500 and just threw on new rubber after his last track day. I'll post the details after I get done but I've decided against the 10 all together. That being said I'm looking to do track days as often as possible for the foreseeable future. How much would you say you spend after a weekend at the track?
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Jul 26, 2011 01:54
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Probably Hates You posted:yeah, you were the one I was referring to about a streetable track bike. Thanks for reaffirming what Z3n said. If I had any doubt it was gone by the time I read your post. I'm checking out an 05 750 in about an hour with 12,000 miles on it and it's already race prepped. Guy is asking 5500 and just threw on new rubber after his last track day. I'll post the details after I get done but I've decided against the 10 all together. What sort of transport vehicle do you have? Gas + 2-400 in track fees, 400 in tires every few weekends. Bring your own food, spares, and gas, and you're looking at track fees and gas plus ~100 in assorted expenses a day. You should have about 80 of that left over a day, and every 5 days you'll blow that extra 80 on a set of tires. Probably Hates You posted:Welp, I'm sold. When it's put like that it's really hard to argue I have to admit. Sorry man. Just helping you live up to your screenname.  If you want to do a lot of trackdays, find a 600 because you'll be able to stretch tires/pads longer. But the cool thing is that the new pirelli trackday slicks are amazing and you can go for many days on a rear. Pair the trackday rear with a medium front and you can go at least 5 days on a single set of tires, no problem. I think the pairing of a trackbike and a good supermoto is the best combo you can get. Add a dirtbikes to taste and its pretty much riding nirvana. 
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Jul 26, 2011 02:15
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I have a truck that I can tie the bike down in that gets pretty good gas mileage so I'm not too worried about that. I just got back from looking at a 750(not going to waste any time searching.)Bike was alright but it just didn't really grab my attention. Still have a few more to cross off anyways so my search is far from over in that department. Despite the extra cost of tires and what-not I don't think I'll be grabbing a 600. As for the track day costs that's definitely within budget, especially now that I'm not dropping 14 large on a ZX10. Do you have a link or any info on those Pirelli tires? As for the username you'll have to do something far more extreme to warrant those kind of feelings. It's sort of an inside joke in my circle of friends because I love everyone. Is there a better site besides BARF or CL for a used DRZ? I'll admit that I haven't really searched BARF all that much(living in LA and all) but almost all the DRZ prices around here are more than is reasonable.
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Jul 26, 2011 04:30
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Probably Hates You posted:yeah, you were the one I was referring to about a streetable track bike. Thanks for reaffirming what Z3n said. If I had any doubt it was gone by the time I read your post. I'm checking out an 05 750 in about an hour with 12,000 miles on it and it's already race prepped. Guy is asking 5500 and just threw on new rubber after his last track day. I'll post the details after I get done but I've decided against the 10 all together. Good deal .I am the dork -Inu- referenced... Had a decent amount of street experience on oldass UJMs and decided it was time to get a modern bike I wasn't afraid of electronics randomly making GBS threads on me during a ride. After a loving huge waste of time and money on a Buell 1125r when they firesaled everything, I ended up with a 2008 CBR1000RR. The CBR was an absolutely glorious machine and everything I wanted in a motorcycle. Reliable to a fault. Blindingly fast. Amazing fuel economy for the power it put down. Stupid power. Retardedly quick. Outstanding brakes (with a few minor tweaks). loving BRUTALLY, SHOCKINGLY, DECEIVINGLY FAST. Did I mention it was fast? Because it was fast. fasssssssstttttttttttttt There really isn't much out there that can prepare you for a modern literbike. They truly are amazing machines capable of amazing things in the right hands... Not mine . It was a fantastic motorcycle and I loving loved the thing. But, many of the things that -Inu- and Z3n have mentioned are completely true. A literbike does NOT make a good trackday newbie bike by any means. I worked around it and ended up as a decent (not good by any stretch of the imagination) trackday junkie, but I would have progressed far more quickly on something slower. Funny how that works... I had a legitimate, healthy respect of the throttle. As such, I rarely used it  . I was always scared to get on the gas on corner exits because I didn't want to highside myself into oblivion. I rarely pinned the thing on straights because of the insane amount of speed it developed (and more importantly the rate it developed said speed) even with tall stock gearing. Once my skills as a rider progressed and I started going faster, the CBR actually made even less sense. I started spitting out respectable lap times but never was totally comfortable on the thing. I always found myself over braking after straights, never having the corner entry speed I should. Not to mention your consumables budget will go through the roof with a big bike. I was destroying a rear tire every two trackdays, and a front every 3-4. The extra speed you're carrying down straights has to go somewhere for you to make that next corner... it goes into brake pads and fluid. The chain and sprockets were about toast when I sold it, after less than a full season of trackdays + street riding. After all that negativity let me conclude by saying I do not regret owning that crazy motherfucker of a bike one bit. There are many days I still miss it, in fact . As a retarded streetbike you might take to the track every once in awhile I don't see anything wrong with one. If you want to develop good riding skills as quickly as possible, stay the hell away from it. If you want to scare the poo poo out of yourself, by all means try one out. YOU TOO can poo poo your pants at a trackday! Experience the FUN! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvHtChodNk0 I will say this. The bike I replaced the CBR with has ONE THIRD the horsepower, ONE QUARTER the amount of cylinders, THREE TIMES the suspension travel, still trackable, and is easily ten times as fun on the street or track. Or dirt. Or sidewalks. Enter - The Supermoto.  looks from corner workers are an added bonus!  condensed. Listen to Z3n (you can bust out the "I loving TOLD YOU SO" again if you want, you smug bastard!). Don't make my mistakes, just buy a drat track prepped 600.
needknees fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jul 26, 2011 |
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Jul 26, 2011 04:31
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Holy poo poo, I've hit the loving goldmine on advice. You guys are amazing. Needknees, I always enjoy reading your posts, now more than ever. Post more you glorious bastard. That was everything I needed to hear. You've officially got me questioning if I want a 600 instead of a 750. And that's saying a LOT. I'm stubborn as hell but over the course of ONE DAY I've decided I don't want what I've wanted for 2 years. I guess that says volumes doesn't it? Oh god, oh god that video. I had forgotten where I saw it and didn't remember it was you but every time I've wanted to remember what a tank slapper is like I'd watch that clip.
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Jul 26, 2011 05:05
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Honestly, the liter sounds amazing on paper. You look at the stats, you read the lastest article where journals spin poetic (or pathetic) verbal contortions to describe the way the latest literbike causes the earth to pee a bit when you roll on the throttle. And it all seems to come together so well. You look at the guys racing them and they seem so smooth and collected and they just rocket out of the corners and you think "that is what I must have!". The truth is different. The first time I rode a literbike, a control rider friend conned me into taking out his gsxr 1k instead of my SV. It was at Buttonwillow, a track I knew well, so he told me to run in the C group for that session (from A) and just pass on the power. In true rockstar fashion, I stall the bike leaving the pits, not used to the throttle and the clutch of the 4 cylinder. I leave pit lane and roll into the throttle and the bike shoots forward. I upshift, content to roll around the track for a lap to warm the tires, the bike, and adjust to things. I exit turn 2, roll on the throttle, and while I'm trying to come to terms with the acceleration, the front end is already lifting over a rise in the track on the approach to turn 3. Im making GBS threads myself, as the wheelie distracted me long enough to make me way overshoot my braking marker and the bike hasn't even gotten close to redline yet, plus I'm coming in way hotter than I ever expected possible. I creep around waiting for the front straight, as there's no other place for me to even consider pinning the throttle, and plus there's a bunch of newbs in front of me who I didn't want to strafe. We exit the last corner, I hammer it. Wheelie in second isn't surprising. Neither is the wheelie in 3rd. Kick it into 4th, on approach to passing a couple of people, and the bike catches a seam that was completely irrelevant in my SV and begins wiggling, slow at first and then faster. I'm passing a guy and the bars are oscelating faster and faster, I look down and the speedo is rolling past 156mph. First thought is "gently caress, I hope I don't freak this guy out as I pass", second thought as the bars start to shake more is "oh gently caress I hope I don't crash!", and finally as it goes in to full on tank slapper I just think "oh gently caress this is bad". So that is pretty much how I feel about literbikes. I'm sure that situation was made worse by the wrong suspension setup, but they're not fun to ride when the corners come so fast. They're work. My SV was fun to ride, my 600 was fun to ride, my sumo is fun to ride. I can relax, and enjoy the faster corners and the flow of the track. On the liter, I was making GBS threads myself on corner entry, bored midcorner, and terrified on exit. Worse, the bike is always out of sorts because you're never pushing it in the right places. One day, when I'm done trying to race, I'll trackday hero on a GSXR 750 or 848. Those are the fastest bikes for us mere mortals, once you develop some skill. Read "Song of the Sausage Creature", it describes the feeling perfectly. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jul 26, 2011 |
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Jul 26, 2011 06:36
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To chime in on 1000cc vs 600cc bikes from a crazy kid like me who happens to have both: Riding around on a GSX-R 1000 has certainly opened up my eyes a bit, the performance is quite insane if you even poke it a bit, however it's certainly streetable and usable performance. It's already pretty insane the speeds it can get to on the street and through the turns. Of course if you're talking track performance, I have yet to do any track days, but all I know is that things happen very fast on a literbike even compared to a 600cc sport bike, it kind of made me realize how much more I could push the 600cc bike closer to it's limit while barely using the liter bike potential.
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Jul 26, 2011 09:41
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I know my opinion constitutes that of a utter noob with no track day experience yet, but have you tried the 636? Last night I took out my new 636 on the local desolate & small beltway (Inner Loop of Rochester) and it was fun as hell to blast around it. The description of the cbr1000rr made my chest hair pull themselves out further. I love descriptions like that and that's why I love the world of motorcycling. You just can't speak the same level of veneration when you're in the world of cars.
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Jul 26, 2011 15:06
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Okay as a cruiser rider who has never had this "tank slapper" thing happen... how the gently caress does that happen?
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Jul 26, 2011 15:45
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Okay as a cruiser rider who has never had this "tank slapper" thing happen... how the gently caress does that happen? There's a pretty good list of events I think caused the tankslapper in the video description but it really comes down to a couple things. A light front wheel and extraneous inputs, be it from the rider or road surface. If your suspension setup is way the gently caress off it can cause instability that may turn into a tankslapper as well. Or setting a wheelie down crossed up.
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Jul 26, 2011 16:26
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the walkin dude posted:I know my opinion constitutes that of a utter noob with no track day experience yet, but have you tried the 636? Last night I took out my new 636 on the local desolate & small beltway (Inner Loop of Rochester) and it was fun as hell to blast around it. The 636 is more like a 750 than a 600, but the literbikes are completely insane. Also, with track use, your bike should basically never be below ~10k on a 600 or a 750, which means the nice midrange punch of the 636 is pretty much irrelevant. needknees posted:There's a pretty good list of events I think caused the tankslapper in the video description but it really comes down to a couple things. A light front wheel and extraneous inputs, be it from the rider or road surface. If your suspension setup is way the gently caress off it can cause instability that may turn into a tankslapper as well. Or setting a wheelie down crossed up. Crossed up wheelies only lead to tankslappers if you strongarm the bars as it goes down. If you relax it'll just snap straight. I set down progressively more crossed up wheelies on the supermoto to prove this to myself, until I had it sitting basically on the steering lock when it hit the ground. The bike definitely jerks strongly and the bars will SNAP straight, but if you don't resist it it'll straighten back out with minimal drama. Tankslappers are also more likely the sharper (ie, more sporty) your chassis geometry is. Generally most tankslappers are caused by people strongarming the hell out of the bars to try and stop it shaking, which just makes it worse. It's extra problematic for new riders on supersports because they don't know to keep their weight off the bars and will accidentally stiffarm the bars supporting themselves.
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Jul 26, 2011 16:50
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Advice appreciated: Me: - New rider, been practising on my friend's 125cc enduro, took one short parking lot lesson from a local school - 6'4", 225lb, 34" inseam - Was planning on getting a supermoto (DRZ), but can't afford one. Now looking at a UJM. Bike: - 1981 Suzuki GS850 I'll mostly be doing short rides with this bike. I'll be doing a fair bit of commuting with it (15 minutes to an hour each way, each day), along with short weekend rides for fun. My top priority is reliability, as I don't want to spend a ton of money on parts and repairs. I'm decent with a wrench, so I can probably do a fair bit of work myself if necessary. But I'd prefer to keep it fairly low-maintenance. The GS850 is appealing to me because it seems to have a good reputation for reliability, it seems like just the right amount of power (enough to get me around but not too much to get me into trouble) and the price is certainly right. WSYCA?
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Jul 27, 2011 07:04
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DrakeriderCa posted:Advice appreciated: Oh, I think once you bond with it the short rides will be out the window and you'll be riding the thing to Machu Picchu and back. Bulletproof does seem to be the consensus. I'm not aware of any model-specific problems with these. Apart from the gauge cluster looking like it's been disassembled by a monkey, I think you have a fine example here. Just do a walkaround and look for obvious signs of road rash, busted fasteners, hacked electronics, etc. Oh, and make sure you get the full experience of a cold start, and that it hasn't been fired up just prior to your arrival--they all respond with a blip of the button when warm. You need to know what to expect when you're leaving a Manitoba Holiday Inn at 9AM in mid-October. Make him cough up the side covers or knock something off the price--they're not just for looks. You really don't need water getting into that general area. Enjoy. http://www.pashnit.com/gs850-wht.htm
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Jul 27, 2011 08:49
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DrakeriderCa posted:bike Reason I ask is that there are a couple of CB900F for sale on Kijiji, both appear gorgeous and need nothing. Asking price is certainly more than the GS but they are almost legendary bikes. They're asking too much imho, but who knows how much you can get them for as they've been for sale for some time. http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-sport-bikes-1981-Honda-CB900F-SuperSport-W0QQAdIdZ294563457 http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-sport-touring-1982-Honda-CB-W0QQAdIdZ296884576 These are not light bikes and might be on the big side for a novice rider. Your physical size would help though. Give any thought to a more modern bike or do you have a hard on for 80s standards? slidebite fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Jul 27, 2011 |
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Jul 27, 2011 14:13
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I'm going to look at an '89 EL250 for a buddy tomorrow, and after talking with the owner, it sounds like a good deal. However, he said something called the "power valve" needs work. Now as far as I know, these bikes don't have the only power valve I've ever heard of (the exhaust thing in some Kawi dirt bike), and I can't think of what else could be construed as such. Any ideas?
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Jul 27, 2011 23:40
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Thinking of picking up a 2006 model Husky TC450 to use for MX practice, recreational enduros and possibly putting a plate on it for very occasional trail use (since we don't really have a lot of legal, accessible trails in the area). Supposedly needs nothing doing, looks cosmetically tidy and that's one of the years with the Ohlins at the back. Anyone have any experience of them or (this being SA) opinions? The beast:  
Saga fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Jul 28, 2011 |
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Jul 28, 2011 07:19
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New Rider...just passed the MSF over the weekend and I'm getting itchy to buy a bike. My details: -Firstly I am a chick. Secondly, I'm a short chick: 5'3 -I'm not a beanpole, not a hambeast - in good shape, if that makes any difference -The only bikes I've ever operated were through the MSF course and the 101 class I took, both 250's: a Kawasaki and a Suzuki. As far as what I'm looking at: -My eyes automatically lean towards Triumphs; specifically the Bonneville and the Scrambler -I'm leaning more towards the traditional standard/cruiser style rather than the sportbike style, however...my mind is not made up either way Since this will be my first bike, my biggest selling points will be comfort, ease of use, and obviously safety. I'm not interested in whipping around corners and flying through straightaways quite yet - I want to get the important things down pat first: cornering, swerving, tight maneuvers, etc etc. I absolutely want to have a good time on the bike, but doing it safely is my top priority right now.
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Jul 28, 2011 15:37
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Those are pretty powerful bikes for a brand new rider, but if you are willing to take the risk there are worse options. If safety is your top priority you should look at smaller displacement bikes. Have you considered any entry level cruisers like the Kawi Vulcan or other similar bikes?
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Jul 28, 2011 15:58
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I wouldn't recommend a Bonnie or Scrambler for a first bike for a shorty such as yourself. They're biiiiiiiiig bikes and need to be muscled about, and they're far to nice to watch yourself drop when you misstep at a gas station. Power isn't really an issue. Hack about on something smaller to get your confidence then class it up with a Trumpy.
2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jul 28, 2011 |
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Jul 28, 2011 16:10
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"[panic posted:"] I'm definitely open to any suggestions/recommendations you all might have for me. I want to avoid being that clueless idiot girl at a motorcycle shop. Good insight on the Triumph; that'll be my "goal" bike after I'm done trashing my first one. I'll see if I can find any Vulcans in my area. Do you guys have any recommendations of a sportbike I should consider as well? Edit: thoughts on this one? http://www.suzukicycles.com/Product%20Lines/Cycles/Products/Gladius/2009/SFV650.aspx?category=standard Distended Bowel fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Jul 28, 2011 |
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Jul 28, 2011 16:24
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cannonballs posted:New Rider...just passed the MSF over the weekend and I'm getting itchy to buy a bike. The Bonneville is extremely, extremely easy to ride at any speed. The suspension's not really designed for surefooted handling at the edge of the performance envelope, but for anything from foot up u-turns to cruising down a highway at 90mph it's pretty faultless. Personally, unless you have a cruiser fetish, I would take one over any cruiser. They stop, go and turn corners while still having retro looks, chrome, etc. With rare exceptions, cruisers only have the latter. They can get very good mileage. And although admittedly a bit wobbly at the back, you could even take one to a race track and have fun gouging holes in the tarmac with the footpegs. The only issue, as posted above, is basically that they're heavy by road bike standards - over 200kg, despite the relatively low seat height. That isn't necessarily an issue, but if you dropped one, could you pick it up? I don't mean over your head obviously, but could you grab it by the bars and lever it upright again? That may matter as you're a beginner. Personally I don't think that's much of an issue however. They're a reliable and fuel efficient bike that is extremely un-intimidating, and thus perfect for getting some seat time. As with cruisers, there are lots of low-mileage "garage queens" in suburbs near you that never get ridden, so you can get a good deal if you negotiate hard. The only other problem with them, however, is that they're naked bikes covered in chrome and exposed aluminium. Ride it in anything other than perfect weather on pristine blacktop, and you will either have a very second hand looking Triumph or spend hours scrubbing after every ride. Which could well put you off the bike, and basically the latter isn't going to be possible if you're commuting on it. Things covered in plastic fairings, although easily marred when dropped, are far better at resisting/hiding corrosion. However, if you really want a naked bike, you're pretty much stuck dealing with this issue. I don't know about sportsbikes, but the default suggestions of Ninja 250s and EX500s/Ninja 500R as cheap, economical road bikes with decent wind protection are good options as well. If you want something that's extremely small, light and good looking without a fairing, try here: http://www.ducatiusa.com/bikes/monster/696/1498/index.do
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Jul 28, 2011 16:47
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Saga posted:The Bonneville is extremely, extremely easy to ride at any speed. The suspension's not really designed for surefooted handling at the edge of the performance envelope, but for anything from foot up u-turns to cruising down a highway at 90mph it's pretty faultless. I've heard the same thing about the Bonnie's and I absolutely LOVE the way they look. I guess my eye falls more for the classic/retro look rather than the sportbike, but as I said, I'm pretty openminded.
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Jul 28, 2011 16:59
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