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Z3n posted:It's like loving Dante's Inferno up in there. Get down too deep and you start finding Roberston.  Those are for attaching the shelves. Or mounting the bike to the wall.
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Jul 29, 2011 17:06
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Z3n posted:This is why I will never own a Harley. First layer: SAE. Second layer: Metric. Third Layer: Allen. Fourth Layer: Torx. Fifth Layer: 12 sided bolt. They know exactly what they're doing...it's all designed to send Bubba into a rage and straight into the stealership for routine maintenance. This is why there's no on-board factory toolkit...it'd be the size of a 12-pack of Old Milwaukee.
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Jul 29, 2011 17:49
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Marv Hushman posted:They know exactly what they're doing...it's all designed to send Bubba into a rage and straight into the stealership for routine maintenance. Exactly. There is room for a toolkit in theory, but that space is taken up by the OEM 12 pack of Old Milwaukee.
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Jul 29, 2011 18:06
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Why would you keep a toolkit in someone's stomach?
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Jul 29, 2011 18:37
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nsaP posted:Why would you keep a toolkit in someone's stomach? Look at this noob thinking that they keep it in their stomach only. There's a 12'er in each of the saddle bags AS WELL as their stomach. You know you can't ride yer herley without a coupla brews brah. And a bandana. Don't forget that.
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Jul 29, 2011 18:39
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Ola posted:Exactly. There is room for a toolkit in theory, but that space is taken up by the OEM 12 pack of Old Milwaukee. Of course, by Old Milwaukee I do mean rebadged Old Milwaukee. 
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Jul 29, 2011 18:52
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Z3n posted:Yamaha good will is pretty likely. I wouldn't put any good will on an aftermarket warranty though. Yamaha has a stake in you being happy with their product and service, the same isn't true with the aftermarket warranty companies. I think I am pretty thoroughly boned on this. Things I learned today: my motorcycle never had a manufacturers' warranty. According to the conversation I had with Yamaha Motor Corp, if the dealership buys the crate at an auction, there is no warranty. I was lead to believe there was a 1-year warranty on the bike when I bought it brand new out of the crate, two years ago. I figured I was ok shelling out for assembly and stuff if I had a manufacturers' warranty for the first year. I've been in communication with the dealership in Rexburg whose service coordinator tells me they've been in contact with Yamaha, but when I spoke with Yamaha today, they informed me they have no record of any communication with Rexburg Motorsports. So at this point, canceling the operation and trucking it and the parts I bought home is as much of a crap shoot as leaving it there, because the local dealer/service center I trusted, it turns out, was not being up front with me about my motorcycle right from the start. Plus it will cost about $500 in gas to go out with a borrowed truck, plus whatever a trailer to tow it home will cost. This is really discouraging. At this point I feel like Yamaha and their dealer network exist only to bleed me dry. The idea of selling it to a slimeball dealership doesn't sit right with me but that's what I am looking into now.
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Jul 29, 2011 18:55
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clutchpuck posted:I think I am pretty thoroughly boned on this. Sounds like you're getting shafted from 2 poo poo dealerships...the one you bought the bike from and the one you've left the bike at. That just flat out loving blows  Sorry man.
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Jul 29, 2011 19:54
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I am ready to separate from the bike at a pretty big loss and sidestep into something way less expensive [but hopefully more fun!!!]... looks like there are some affordable [after all this] Bandit 1250s, Versyses, and Strom-like options floating around. I am pretty done with Yamaha, and probably new bikes in general.
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Jul 29, 2011 19:58
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clutchpuck posted:I am ready to separate from the bike at a pretty big loss and sidestep into something way less expensive [but hopefully more fun!!!]... looks like there are some affordable [after all this] Bandit 1250s, Versyses, and Strom-like options floating around. I've got a cheap Honda!  There's also the ubiquitous SV650 and Ninja 650.
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Jul 29, 2011 20:27
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That's a big bummer but sometimes you have to just take it on the chin and pick the best of the poo poo options you have. It sucks to sell it off when you feel like you're getting screwed, but if the other option is getting more screwed, well, sometimes life sucks. Going to used only isn't that bad, sure you end up with a bike others have ridden (and sometimes never maintained) but at least they take the financial hit.
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Jul 29, 2011 20:29
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I need a 110-link chain soonish. I'm seeing a bunch of 112- and 120- link chains. Can I buy one of those and pull a pin out? Also, the service manual has a misprint and doesn't list the chain pitch. I think it's a 530, but how can I tell for sure? The part number from the manual is RK GB50MFOZ1. I'm seeing a bunch of GB520 and GB530, but no "GB50." How do the chain manufacturers compare? Is RK noticeably better? I also see DID, Chainmaster, Renthal (who has a kit with sprockets, too), EK, and BikeMaster.
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Jul 29, 2011 20:53
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530 chains are usually called 50(530) for some reason. GB530 will fit. If you're going to rivet the chain together yourself, you can remove as many links as you need with a chain breaker/riveting tool. Obviously, you can do this with a closed chain as well, but that would be silly and negate the benefits of buying a closed chain. I've always heard that DID and RK are the best chains money can buy. I've got a DID 50(530)VM on my Bandit, no complaints here and the gold finish looks bling as gently caress 
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Jul 29, 2011 21:03
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nsaP posted:That's a big bummer but sometimes you have to just take it on the chin and pick the best of the poo poo options you have. It sucks to sell it off when you feel like you're getting screwed, but if the other option is getting more screwed, well, sometimes life sucks. Going to used only isn't that bad, sure you end up with a bike others have ridden (and sometimes never maintained) but at least they take the financial hit. Yeah... they offered me about $1000 for the bike. No way. I'm just going to have to wait out the down time, eat the repair, fly to Idaho, ride it home, hope it gets there, and put it on the local craigslist. In the mean time a friend of mine offered his Ulysses to hoon around on whenever I want so I can still ride. I can see myself buying a Buell at the end of the season, the Ulysses is so fun. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jul 29, 2011 |
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Jul 29, 2011 21:20
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Z3n posted:Make sure 4 is in good shape and you just tighten it down. Alright, thanks. Part 4 looks kinda crumbly, like the tip is made of paper or something so I'll replace it ($13 for a tiny metal joint.... fuuuuuuuuuck)
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Jul 29, 2011 22:52
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kylej posted:Alright, thanks. Part 4 looks kinda crumbly, like the tip is made of paper or something so I'll replace it ($13 for a tiny metal joint.... fuuuuuuuuuck) They always look a little crumbly. It's just a ring of muffler material, it certainly won't hurt to replace it though, and doing it right the first time means no loving around with it the next time. I have learned this lesson repeatedly, and I think it's finally sinking in.
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Jul 29, 2011 22:53
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Z3n posted:This is why I will never own a Harley. First layer: SAE. Second layer: Metric. Third Layer: Allen. Fourth Layer: Torx. Fifth Layer: 12 sided bolt. You forgot Whitworth, you hack
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Jul 29, 2011 23:04
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Bucephalus posted:You forgot Whitworth, you hack Whitworth was soundly boycotted by Harley factory workers after a disagreement over trademarked British oil leakage patterns.
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Jul 29, 2011 23:19
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Brilliant.
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Jul 29, 2011 23:26
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clutchpuck posted:Yamaha warranty stuff. I sort of have an issue with Yamaha warranty too. Routine service is coming up on the 2007 FZ6 and I checked with a Yamaha dealer for some warranty info. I found out that the warranty was already void since the bike hadn't been serviced every year since delivery. The previous owner had skipped an annual service, probably because he never rode it. Yamaha officially requires that an authorized mechanic does the annual service or else they'll pretty much find you at fault for neglecting maintenance should the engine blow. I can understand that not servicing the bike within the specified mileage interval would void the warranty. But hardly riding it shouldn't require annual servicing, and skipping an annual service when the bike's just been sitting shouldn't really matter. However, the bike was serviced again just a few months ago, and since it was fine then Yamaha might still honor the warranty. But that's just if Yamaha wants to play nice, officially I have no warranty. And the factory warranty was one of the reasons I bought a newer, more expensive bike.
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Jul 29, 2011 23:27
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I was under the impression that is illegal. Actually I'm rather certain it is. There's a law that they can't make you be serviced by person X for the warranty to be valid. It can be serviced by anyone, including you. This is US right? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act And http://ezinearticles.com/?What-Will-Void-Your-Car-Warranty?&id=1418165 This one is talking about cars, but the same law covers cars and bikes, and actually any warranty. They will try to weasel out of it by claiming it was poorly maintained, but if you have receipts you can fight that pretty easily. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jul 30, 2011 |
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Jul 29, 2011 23:52
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Z3n posted:Whitworth was soundly boycotted by Harley factory workers after a disagreement over trademarked British oil leakage patterns. These leakage patterns were used in a Rorshach test. A significant percentage of the surveyed claimed to see a man on his knees in a pile of strange mechanical objects crying money into the pocket of a divorce attorney.
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Jul 30, 2011 00:06
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Z3n posted:This is why I will never own a Harley. First layer: SAE. Second layer: Metric. Third Layer: Allen. Fourth Layer: Torx. Fifth Layer: 12 sided bolt. Although I guess that's not too far off from modern Harleys. Do they actually use torx now too? In their defense, those stupid 12 point things on the brake calipers are just 1/4" and will fit a 1/4" 12pt socket or the box end of a 12pt wrench just fine. On the BSA I'm taking apart, I've just been rifling through all the tools we have and finding whatever fits tightest. And making real sure to ziploc bag every single nut and bolt.
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Jul 30, 2011 00:36
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Bondematt posted:This is US right? No, Sweden actually. I'm not sure if there is any legal precedent here which might apply, but I'd be surprised if there wasn't. But in any case, to be 100% certain the warranty is valid I might have to prove that it actually was serviced by a previous owner. However, in a real case of engine detonation it would be hard for Yamaha to prove that it happened because of neglected service. Especially since the bike has been serviced at closer kilometer intervals than needed, just not as frequent. Also, I have proof that the bike was serviced, and found fault-free, just a few months ago. My plan was to let a shop service it during the warranty just to keep it valid. But if I can't rely on it being honored because of some technicality I'm pretty tempted to just do all maintenance myself and gently caress the warranty.
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Jul 30, 2011 00:43
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Ola posted:These leakage patterns were used in a Rorshach test. A significant percentage of the surveyed claimed to see a man on his knees in a pile of strange mechanical objects crying money into the pocket of a divorce attorney. Odd, this sounds like a dream I had recently, with my new buddy the ghost of christmas future. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've been working on an old BSA dirt bike at the shop recently, doing a total teardown, and discussing it with the boss who is a British bike guy. I was dumbfounded to hear there were no less than 3 British fastener standards in use, all different from metric and SAE, sometimes all 3 on the same bike/car, into the 1970s. I learned to work on bikes with old German ones, which had been using metric since like 1910, so I just couldn't believe that. I'm not sure, I think I found a Torx bolt last time I worked on my friend's Harley. I honestly try and forget as much of that experience as possible. Finding different types of fasteners on the same bike makes me want to drink until the only tool I'm capable of using is an impact wrench.
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Jul 30, 2011 00:45
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've been working on an old BSA dirt bike at the shop recently, doing a total teardown, and discussing it with the boss who is a British bike guy. I was dumbfounded to hear there were no less than 3 British fastener standards in use, all different from metric and SAE, sometimes all 3 on the same bike/car, into the 1970s. I was designing hydraulics for something being built in Europe. In addition to the 3 or 4 US hydraulic component thread standards, I had to deal with their metric versions PLUS a British standard that no one else uses.
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Jul 30, 2011 01:20
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makka-setan posted:My plan was to let a shop service it during the warranty just to keep it valid. But if I can't rely on it being honored because of some technicality I'm pretty tempted to just do all maintenance myself and gently caress the warranty. You should be able to get a straight answer from someone at Yamaha right? I would think they could tell you if it is valid or not.
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Jul 30, 2011 01:23
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Although I guess that's not too far off from modern Harleys. Do they actually use torx now too? In their defense, those stupid 12 point things on the brake calipers are just 1/4" and will fit a 1/4" 12pt socket or the box end of a 12pt wrench just fine. Yes. One of everything, up to T45 (humungous) for some of the motor mounts, which need to be cranked to spec occasionally. Lots of people buy kits to try to get everything to one type, so it's at least keeping someone in the aftermarket gainfully employed. Metric comes in because the front end is 100% Showa. For the Sporty anyway, that particular fastener's a 10mm 12 point, which would be sitting right in any socket set over $20--if you knew to look for it (I didn't at the time).
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Jul 30, 2011 01:37
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I just got to push my bike 6 miles home, including some quite steep hills. My body is shaking, I feel sick, and my drat bike won't start. It started fine after work, but stalled pulling away (first time I have ever stalled it). Headed to the petrol station, filled it up and that was it. The bike wouldn't start. There's a loud clicking noise when I press the starter button coming from somewhere around the seat. As I was getting ready to leave work one of my idiot colleagues decided to repeatedly push the starter button as the bike was running. Could this have killed the battery?
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Jul 30, 2011 06:54
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Frankston posted:There's a loud clicking noise when I press the starter button coming from somewhere around the seat. As in a single *click*, or a rapid *clickclickclickclick*?
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Jul 30, 2011 08:17
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Frankston posted:I just got to push my bike 6 miles home, including some quite steep hills. My body is shaking, I feel sick, and my drat bike won't start. Killed the battery is most likely. Battery test are free at least, or try charging it on a tender overnight.
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Jul 30, 2011 08:40
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Bondematt posted:You should be able to get a straight answer from someone at Yamaha right? I would think they could tell you if it is valid or not. Yamaha just refers to the dealers. And the dealer I spoke to just quoted what it says in the warranty information; Bike must be serviced every 10000 km and/or once a year. The annual service check consists of just changing the oil and filter, and checking cables, switches, hoses and fluid levels. How would skipping such a service impact the longevity of the engine parts if the bike has mostly been sitting for a year? I don't think Yamaha would admit that it's OK to skip services and still keep the warranty. But on a case-to-case basis I think they might honor the warranty in case something breaks. The bike has not been mistreated or neglected in any way. I think I'm stuck in some kind of gray area.
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Jul 30, 2011 09:41
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Frankston posted:There's a loud clicking noise when I press the starter button coming from somewhere around the seat. First check the battery. Weak battery could explain it. Then also check the starter motor relay. On my old Suzuki the relay is a bit bad and sometimes it just clicks. All I do is give it a few taps with my knuckles and it usually works again. If the battery is good but the relay is shot you can hotwire it by bypassing the relay. I just put a screwdriver over the relay and that got the engine running. But be careful, there is a very high current and you will probably see sparks.
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Jul 30, 2011 09:48
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Nidhg00670000 posted:As in a single *click*, or a rapid *clickclickclickclick*? Had this issue yesterday. It was a single clicking and pretty much solved by putting the bike in gear & rocking the bike with clutch on. Choke was all the way out too, cause it was pretty cold that morning. What would be the cause of this one-off (please god do not repeat) issue? Dying battery? Can't be the spark plugs because I've only just replaced them & cleaned the carbs. I really don't wanna have to take it to a mechanic for a simplistic problem like a BATTERY.
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Jul 30, 2011 10:30
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It's a single click. One click when I press the button, one click when I depress it.Odette posted:Had this issue yesterday. It was a single clicking and pretty much solved by putting the bike in gear & rocking the bike with clutch on. Choke was all the way out too, cause it was pretty cold that morning. Just had a go at this for 5 minutes, it made the slightest attempt at starting before dying again so I guess it is the battery. Frankston fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Jul 30, 2011 |
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Jul 30, 2011 12:52
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Frankston posted:It's a single click. One click when I press the button, one click when I depress it. The single click is your starter relay. It's normal operation, don't worry. I'm not sure that your problem is isolated to your battery, but electrical problems are almost impossible to troubleshoot without a known-good battery. You got it started, and reved it, and yet it died. This is probably not your battery. Most important question right now: What kind of bike do you ride, and do you own a multimeter? Frankston posted:As I was getting ready to leave work one of my idiot colleagues decided to repeatedly push the starter button as the bike was running. Could this have killed the battery? Nope, but it'll sure as hell eventually kill the drive coupling for your starter motor,
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Jul 30, 2011 15:26
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Odette posted:Had this issue yesterday. It was a single clicking and pretty much solved by putting the bike in gear & rocking the bike with clutch on. Choke was all the way out too, cause it was pretty cold that morning. Check your battery firdt but my guess is that your starter has a bad spot in its rotation. I'd see if it comes up again.
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Jul 30, 2011 16:03
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ReelBigLizard posted:An impact driver and rawhide or rubber mallet. I would recommend a deadblow hammer. The rawide hammer would probably be ok, but they aren't terribly heavy, are they? Seriously, I love deadblow hammers, if just for the fact that they pretty much eliminate bouncing off the surface that you are hammering so you get more energy into what you are hammering. Regarding the price issue, I believe that deadblow hammers can be expensive if you buy them from manufacturing supply house, but I think that I only paid ten dollars for mine at harbor freight.
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Jul 30, 2011 16:54
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I noticed a noise coming from the head area today when looking into something else. Sounds like a slapping chain noise. I'm figuring this is the cam chain. Its not very audible with my helmet on and even with it off I only noticed because I was adjusting the idle. Bike is a 2006 DRZ400SM with ~6k on it. Stock tensioner. Is some noise normal or does it indicate the tensioner is failing?
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Jul 31, 2011 23:09
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henne posted:I noticed a noise coming from the head area today when looking into something else. Sounds like a slapping chain noise. I'm figuring this is the cam chain. Its not very audible with my helmet on and even with it off I only noticed because I was adjusting the idle. Bike is a 2006 DRZ400SM with ~6k on it. Stock tensioner. Is some noise normal or does it indicate the tensioner is failing? DRZ400s have issues with the stock tensioners, now's a good time to slap an APE MCCT on it. Check out thumpertalk, they have good walkthroughs for installing them.
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Aug 1, 2011 00:16
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