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Absolutely, people are paying for the placebo effect. And certainly there will be an advantage to good sticky rubber over something like the Arrowmaxes IF you ride fast enough. I just thought people paying poo poo-tons of money for fashion accessory tyre warmers and supercorsas IIIIIIs or whatever was actually weirder than Kommando doing a track day on bias-plys, that's all. 
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Aug 2, 2011 10:15
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Z3n posted:Its 600$. Running seca 2 turbo in my garage. I feel like a schoolgirl!
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Aug 2, 2011 11:29
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Tipped posted:Running seca 2 turbo in my garage. I feel like a schoolgirl! Pics of the teeny turbo please!
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Aug 2, 2011 11:55
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Marv Hushman posted:Give them 8-10 years, they'll be knocking off the weakest of the Japanese 4. Honda didn't exactly set the world on fire when they first landed here either, with their cars or their bikes. Hyundai was a joke a decade ago, now look where they are. At the moment, there doesn't seem to be a compelling case for any of their offerings. If you want an honest comparison with a Ninja 250, check this: Hm, okay. I'd been leaning toward it because the reviews I was reading were touting it as a competitor to the Ninja, and seeing that it was the #1 learner bike in Australia reassured me about quality. It doesn't look like I have tonnes of options right now though; the three cheapest bikes in my area are a 2005 ninja for $2000 (http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-sport-bikes-2005-Kawasaki-Ninja-250-W0QQAdIdZ277701038), a 2002 ninja for $2000 (http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-sport-bikes-2002-Kawasaki-Ninja-250-W0QQAdIdZ302200956), and then the GT250R. Severe Weeknight fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Aug 2, 2011 |
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Aug 2, 2011 15:05
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Severe Weeknight posted:Hm, okay. I'd been leaning toward it because the reviews I was reading were touting it as a competitor to the Ninja, and seeing that it was the #1 learner bike in Australia reassured me about quality. The 2005 for $2000 seems like an ok deal. Maybe someone with more knowledge can confirm / deny, but I think you'll be happier with the ninja. More parts, (like ebay, kijiji, craigslist, etc) which is nice as you probably don't want to buy every replacemeent part from the dealership. There is also a lot more support overall for the ninja and it is a more tested machine. But in the ends its up to you and if you like the Hyosung more, then thats your call. DISCLAIMER: I know nothing of the bike market in Canada
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Aug 2, 2011 16:18
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See if you can bargain down the 02 to 1500 based off of the 05's existence at the same price. I'd say if you can get it for 1700 that's a pretty good deal from what limited exposure I have to Canada's market. Otherwise, buy the 05.
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Aug 2, 2011 16:58
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Ugh. Used 4cyl naked bike selection is terrible. I'm starting to consider getting a faired bike and doing the conversion. 
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Aug 3, 2011 01:16
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Severe Weeknight posted:Hm, okay. I'd been leaning toward it because the reviews I was reading were touting it as a competitor to the Ninja, and seeing that it was the #1 learner bike in Australia reassured me about quality. It's also probably the cheapest 250 learner bike in Australia (without getting into garbage like Pagsta or Loncin). Like $2000 less than a VTR250.
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Aug 3, 2011 02:55
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Pics of the teeny turbo please! Will do. It really needs a bath, so pics will arrive around the weekend. That and I took 90% of the bodywork off to check out the innards.
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Aug 3, 2011 11:34
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Tipped posted:Will do. It really needs a bath, so pics will arrive around the weekend. That and I took 90% of the bodywork off to check out the innards. Take pictures of the innards please! I've had a chance to ride the CX650 Turbo but I didn't have a chance to see how it all went together.
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Aug 3, 2011 14:41
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http://knoxville.craigslist.org/mcy/2512916372.html Is the SV650 a bad idea for a first bike? It seems pretty light (lighter than the GS500 I was also considering), and at 60-70hp may not totally kill me. How about the price on this one? Owner says 20k miles on it--I've seen slightly newer/lower mileage ones listed at $3500-4000.
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Aug 4, 2011 01:49
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It's only worth about 2k realistically. It's not a bad starter bike as long as you're careful, ideally you should have some experience on another bike first as it's still stupid fast (4 second 0-60 time, 11 second quarter).
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Aug 4, 2011 02:00
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Alright, I'm going to look at it tomorrow... anything specific I could use to try and negotiate down? I have some experience riding a little 125cc dirt bike, for what that's worth. What's the concern with too much horsepower exactly? Not doubting that there's a good reason, but is it more "you could accelerate more than you intend to" or "you might be tempted to try something stupid"?
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Aug 4, 2011 03:47
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Schottingham posted:Alright, I'm going to look at it tomorrow... anything specific I could use to try and negotiate down? I have some experience riding a little 125cc dirt bike, for what that's worth. Most people fail at throttle control & going into corners way too fast, etc etc. Hell, I've heard stories of people writing off the GN125s during the BHS (New Zealand: Basic handling skills, it's a certificate you gotta get before you go for motorcycle licence) Funniest example was some dude 'walking' the bike with engine running. Slipped, turned throttle and the bike wheelied off without him and hero'd into a wall. 
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Aug 4, 2011 06:49
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Tell me how much harder it is to ride/learn on a Bandit 600 as opposed to a Bandit 400. Is it THAT much heavier/bigger? I fit on a Bandit 400 quite well. I can't for the life of me find a good Bandit 400 to buy.
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Aug 4, 2011 13:46
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Ziploc posted:Tell me how much harder it is to ride/learn on a Bandit 600 as opposed to a Bandit 400. The bandit 400 is listed as 380 dry, and the bandit 600 is listed at 510 dry. So...yeah, it's quite a bit bigger and heavier. But the 400s are rare as hen's teeth in the US...I don't know where you are.
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Aug 4, 2011 17:30
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Ziploc posted:I can't for the life of me find a good Bandit 400 to buy. Z3n is right as usual. It's drat near impossible to find a Bandit 400 outside of maybe Japan. Getting spare-parts will probably be a pain. The Bandit 600 is a decent beginners bike. It doesn't feel as heavy as you would think. It's a pretty solid and mechanically proven bike and not much will break on it. It's got a good relaxed seating position and it's not insanely powerful. Parts are relatively cheap. You could do a lot worse for a beginners bike.
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Aug 4, 2011 18:30
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Schottingham posted:Alright, I'm going to look at it tomorrow... anything specific I could use to try and negotiate down? I have some experience riding a little 125cc dirt bike, for what that's worth. I have an SV as first bike and I've found its pretty manageable. I had probably similar level of experience to you, riding scooters, some smaller bikes and lots of mountain biking/cycling. Nice thing I've found on the SV is that the throttle throw is so long that if you grip it normally you will really only open it up about 70% of the way before your wrist gets into and awkward bend. You then need to regrip it to get WOT. While its getting old now that I'm more ready to use that power, I think its pretty good for street riding in general and learning because its unlikely you'll tweak the throttle that far on accident and have the bike do something unexpected (in addition to the power, torque curve etc). Also I think you can be tempted to do something stupid on any motorcycle no matter the power.
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Aug 4, 2011 18:59
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If you're sick of that long throw, install a R6 throttle.  I plan to install one on my ZX-6R; 130 horses aren't rushing up quick enough.
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Aug 4, 2011 19:23
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Schottingham posted:Alright, I'm going to look at it tomorrow... anything specific I could use to try and negotiate down? I have some experience riding a little 125cc dirt bike, for what that's worth. The concern isn't just the peak horsepower, but how the bike makes it's power. V motors tend to be smoother with a kick in the pants from the beginning, whereas I motors tend to be pretty anemic at low revs, then slowly build up to a quicker peak. If you picture V motors as having a linear power climb whereas a peaky I4 would be more like an exponential one, it'll give you an idea for how they respond, even though that's a pretty inaccurate description. When you are a new rider, the concern with ridin any bike over ~70 hp is that it only takes a small change in throttle to cause a big change in power difference, and as a new rider you probably don't have that fine control. On a lower horsepower bike, giving it a bit too much throttle will give you a "whoops" moment, on a powerful bike it can end with you on the ground. The SV650 is recommended because the power delivery is predictable and smooth. It's less jerky at low speeds and less likely to bite you for giving it too much throttle at higher speeds too.
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Aug 4, 2011 19:31
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Z3n posted:The bandit 400 is listed as 380 dry, and the bandit 600 is listed at 510 dry. Penguin of Agony posted:Z3n is right as usual. It's drat near impossible to find a Bandit 400 outside of maybe Japan. Getting spare-parts will probably be a pain. Thanks guys. I know of one Bandit 400 for sale about 500kms away from me. Saw a repainted one that was a quick as is sale, and know of another one that the owner has offered as a 'project' since he wants to sell it, but hasn't put it back together. And they aren't that much cheaper than newer Bandits. I'll call insurance to see what an extra 10 years newness and 200ccs will do to the premiums. I like sport bikes, but have never liked fairings. Naked 4cyl bikes look great. EDIT: What is the difference between a Bandit 600 and Bandit 600S?
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Aug 4, 2011 19:43
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S usually has the front half fairing.
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Aug 4, 2011 19:48
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One of my friend has the rarest of the Bandit 400's, here in New York: a Bandit 400 body with a GSX-600 engine crammed into it. He prefers riding that thing over his CBR600RR.
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Aug 4, 2011 19:49
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the walkin dude posted:One of my friend has the rarest of the Bandit 400's, here in New York: a Bandit 400 body with a GSX-600 engine crammed into it. He prefers riding that thing over his CBR600RR. Upright ergos with more power? Can't lose.
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Aug 4, 2011 20:02
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Made a deal on that SV650 today. Pretty excited 
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Aug 5, 2011 00:42
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Passed the MSF last weekend and got my license today, so I guess it's time to go shopping. I think I found a '98 Ninja 250 with 7-8k miles near me. Seller claims it has new tire, brake pads, oil, filter and battery this spring and is asking for $1,550. KBB says ~$1,300. Thoughts?
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Aug 5, 2011 03:01
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Even $1300 seems high for a 98 when it's not *too* difficult to find newer ones for around that much. (And there's no actual difference between them.)
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Aug 5, 2011 03:14
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Ask about the valve clearance check.
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Aug 5, 2011 03:22
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nsaP posted:When you are a new rider, the concern with ridin any bike over ~70 hp is that it only takes a small change in throttle to cause a big change in power difference, and as a new rider you probably don't have that fine control. On a lower horsepower bike, giving it a bit too much throttle will give you a "whoops" moment, on a powerful bike it can end with you on the ground. The concern is also you go very fast because you can, and then realise you don't know how to scrub off the speed before the next corner and you go face-first into a truck. You can't just put two feet in, cover your eyes and squeal your highest-pitched squeal on a bike and come to a safe stop. Your average road car finds it tough to put energy into the chassis but easy to take it away. Especially with abs, ebd, magic stability control fairies etc. Your average road bike finds it easy to accelerate itself to silly speeds but hard to take that energy away, and it requires correct technique to do so safely. Hence, highsiding aside, it's safer to start on something that doesn't feature the ability to reach silly speeds in a couple of car lengths with a tiny twist of the wrist. Also, I want an emoticon we can use when BoJ's latest account gets permabanned. A weeping neckbeard waving a cigarette lighter above its head or something. Every time it happens I shed a little tear for his  .
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Aug 5, 2011 12:39
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The Bandit currently in question is a 600S from 2002. Pictures show it super clean. Even the engine headers still look new. Has 40,000km. Current owner has put in 6,000km this year and has only had it since May. Will be leaving the country (Edit: In September) for a year and while he wants to keep the bike, does not want to store the bike for an entire year. Though he has no records of valve maintenance, he said he asked when purchasing the bike about the valves and they were done at 30,000km. 5k after the manual suggests. He did a compression test when he bought the bike in May. 1-4 is 140, 135, 145, 140. New tires, new chain, rear brake service, oil change. Front brakes serviced last month. He wants $3,300CAD. Which strikes me as a pretty reasonable price.  Any red flags here? (Apart from the missing signal? Or is that a flushmount?) Ziploc fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Aug 5, 2011 |
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Aug 5, 2011 16:39
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The CAD and USD are fairly similar right now are they not? (fake edit: internet says yes, within a penny) I paid $3100 for my 2000 Bandit 1200 in 2008, so it was actually a year newer at the time of purchase as yours is now, and had 14K miles (22K KM). Not being super familiar with the Canadian bike market, I would say it might be a tad high on the price. I wouldnt pay that amount in the states. I'd shoot for more like $2,500 here. Since you say 3300 strikes you as reasonable though, I may be misreading your market.
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Aug 5, 2011 17:13
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It has been awhile my gooney friends and I missed you! I'm sure some of you remember my crappy R1 I picked up, about 2 months ago it was destroyed by a drunk driver. I was uninjured thanks to my gear. Unfortunately my bike is now toast. I moved recently and I no longer have a highway jaunt to work and I would like to try and save myself a bit on gas. What can you tell me about an 1982 Honda CM200T? I only need to get up to 50-55 mph and I weigh in at around 180 lbs. I want another literbike eventually, but right now I just need something that's good on gas. there is a guy selling one of these with current registration and a clean title in running condition for $475, I'd like to offer him $375 but I'm not sure if that's fair or if it would even work for me. For those interested, this is what the R1 started out as:  This is how she ended life....  I'll miss her
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Aug 5, 2011 22:47
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 bike market in a nutshell: everything costs more to start with, and it's a tiny market to boot.
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Aug 6, 2011 03:45
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Me again! What do you guys think of this dealio? http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-sport-touring-1997-Kawasaki-Ninja-W0QQAdIdZ303656747 Prior history: When did you buy the bike and what was the mileage? - As above, last July – 19630 km, passed a safety requiring nothing. What can you tell me about the prior owner(s) and how they used the bike, took care of it and what maintenance/repairs they had done? - I bought it from Quebec, so there was no info pkg. I haven’t purchased one yet, so all I know about is the last owner. He had it for a few years, I think, babied, it, washed it more than he rode it. He took it on some highway trips with the bigger bikes, which surprised me, but I guess 90-100 km/h isn’t really a problem for this bike. How did you use the bike...city/commuting, high speed highway, twisties, weekend day trips, extended touring, track days? - See above. What is the mechanical, electrical and cosmetic condition of the bike? Any minor or serious problems? Anything that is “iffy” or marginal? - The bike is almost perfect. My 16-year-old had a minor incident a couple of weeks ago, where he spun out on a gravel-covered intersection and the bike went down on him. It broke the left front signal light mount, and didn’t scratch anything else. I guess he fought hard to catch it, though, and he dented the gas tank with his elbow (apparently). You can see it in the pictures. What is the current mileage? Has the odometer ever not worked? - Don’t know – he’s out on it now. Around 26000 km. As far as I know the mileage is accurate. What do you do with the bike at the end of the riding season (winterization process)? - I winterize my bikes myself and store them in a garage. I wash them, add fuel stabilizer, lube/rust-proof anything that needs it, remove the batteries, cover the bikes, etc. What maintenance and repairs have you had done? - I’ve done nothing to the bike except oil changes (two). I have new brake pads but they don’t need to be installed yet. Serviced by dealer or shop (do you have invoices?), a friend or do it yourself? - I do everything myself. Do you adhere to the manufacture’s service schedule? What is the service interval? - 5000 km, oil and filter with outrageously priced 15W50 synthetic. Wash the bike and lube the chain regularly. When was last service, what was done? - Oil change was done less than 1000 km ago. How often do you change the oil? What brand and type of oil? - As above. I couldn’t find the Mobil 1 I was looking for, so I bought Kawasaki stuff from Goodtime Centre Any performance modifications? Any after market accessories? - Nope Condition of the tires? When did you last put new tires on the bike? How many miles on them? - The tires were nearly new when I bought it, and they haven’t been changed. The rear tire is marginal for a safety. Condition of the chain and sprocket? How many miles on them? How often do you lube the chain? - Chain and sprockets are getting there. Condition of the clutch and cable? How often do you lube the cable? - Clutch is perfect. I haven’t gone too far out of my way to lube the cable (not necessary). Condition of the brakes and hoses...how many miles on them? - Need to check the brakes, but in good shape I think. I have new unopened pads. Hoses are fine as far as I know. Have the fork seals ever been replaced? Has the fork oil ever been replaced? - Haven’t touched the forks. No leaking, working fine. Does the transmission work smoothly? - No problems. Has the bike ever been dropped (zero speed or low speed drop)? Ever been crashed? Any dings, scratches or other blemishes? - As described above. Nothing else, as far as I know. Are there any generally known issues, problems, gremlins or quirks with this particular bike model and year? - Not that I know of. Do you have any problem with me having it inspected at my expense by my mechanic prior to purchase? - None whatsoever. Do you have - owner's manual - shop manual - Clymer manual? - I have a Haynes manual, but no owner’s manual (unfortunately). Do you have the toolkit? - It’s there, under the seat.
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Aug 6, 2011 22:24
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Holy shnikies that's a comprehensive list of questions. Props to the seller for taking the time.
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Aug 6, 2011 23:55
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Quite. I almost feel as though I should buy the bike just because he took the time to answer them all.
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Aug 7, 2011 00:00
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Were they all answered truthfully though? that's the kicker.
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Aug 7, 2011 02:57
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Were they all answered truthfully though? that's the kicker. I'm pretty sure the seller won't appreciate you bringing a polygraph.
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Aug 7, 2011 03:34
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What's the opinion on an '03 Ninja 250 with a salvage title? The seller says he bought it as totaled but only had to replace a signal light and the battery to make it legal. He also says he had it inspected and has been riding it ever since, but is now selling it because he bought a moped and doesn't really have a use for the bike anymore. Asking price is $1400 with 2k miles.
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Aug 7, 2011 17:20
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Salvage titles /can/ be okay, but you'll really want to vet the seller and the bike to try to figure out exactly what happened. It's very possible that bikes can be totaled out with relatively little damage to them (structurally I mean). With the cost of fairings, a gas tank, and other misc. bits that get messed up in a crash, the "totaled out" % can get hit very quickly on a I'd offer him 1000. Maybe 700. His asking is way too high for a salvage once I saw the KBB suggested retail. Just remember you're going to get screwed when it comes time to sell too, most people run from salvage titles and those who don't are going to be doing what I'm telling you to do. On the other hand, if you can get it for under 1000 and it's a '03 with 2k miles that (hopefully, check it out first!) doesn't have any major problems, you could easily just hang on to it indefinitely, or pass it on to a friend or something. Edit: For my area, at least, KBB had a high retail of 1700 and NADA has a low retail of 1200 and a high of 1600. I'm not sure where you're located, or what other ninjas of a similar age/miles are going for there, but his price seems really steep to me based on those values. I tend to use KBB and NADA as a baseline, and then usually go by the market for what I think a fair value is, so check what other people are getting for their bikes of couse. I'd still go check it out though with a friend who can help pick it apart, and then explain why you're lowballing him right before you lowball the poo poo out of him. You might get turned down but chances are at that price, he'll be sitting on his salvage title for a while IMO. nsaP fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Aug 7, 2011 |
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Aug 7, 2011 17:58
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