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shodanjr_gr posted:e: Bonus question. How often is an FRPP CAI filter supposed to be replaced? I got about 6K miles on mine after my cross country drive and I seem to recall that this is roughly their lifetime interval? It isn't one of the washable ones? My CAI has a reusable filter that I can just use a K&N CAI recharger on (a bottle of soap and a bottle of filter oil) to get it back to as good as new.
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Aug 31, 2011 22:23
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frozenphil posted:There aren't many cars out there that I know of that will make 851rwhp for under $8k in mods. Could the Coyote be the new 2JZ-GTE? The vanilla GT being able to make nearly 600 on the stock block was pretty impressive, but 850 HP on an otherwise stock engine is absolute insanity, even for a V8. I'm sure being able to spin an extra thousand RPMs is what makes the BOSS variant so much more powerful though. kronix posted:Could you daily drive it? I've never driven a car with anywhere near that much power, but from the videos I've seen of super-high powered cars: no, not really. Skip shift will bring you into fourth gear at 20MPH, but even in such a high gear, I suspect that you could very easily annihilate a set of street tires. I can't find the video, but I remember seeing one of a 6-700HP Corvette (I think formally owned by someone here) that would easily spin the tires in just about any gear under 100 MPH.
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Aug 31, 2011 22:36
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shodanjr_gr posted:Is there an X-Pipe out there that will work with these: Any of them that are designed for stock location mufflers (basically all of them) should since that's just an axle-back exhaust. oRenj9 posted:Could the Coyote be the new 2JZ-GTE? The vanilla GT being able to make nearly 600 on the stock block was pretty impressive, but 850 HP on an otherwise stock engine is absolute insanity, even for a V8. I'm sure being able to spin an extra thousand RPMs is what makes the BOSS variant so much more powerful though. It could very well be. Keep in mind that even the regular GT engines are staying together at 700+ hp. Kelley Performance has a stock engine, stock transmission, stock suspension car running mid 9s with just slicks, a supercharger, and nitrous.
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Aug 31, 2011 23:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:So what do these cars have in common aside from being all Fords and arguably all Mustangs? So is the XB Falcon GT. I hope it isn't done up as the Mad Max Interceptor however.
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Aug 31, 2011 23:45
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I hope the Interceptor bits will be available under Aero parts.
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Sep 1, 2011 03:22
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I got the car back and again, Tim Barth was amazing. Car is wonderful. Their quality of work there is top notch and I was shocked at where the price tag wasn't when they were done. The South must be really pissed off he's not there anymore. It did around 650 on a MustangDyno with only 20# of boost. He said adjusted for the other one (DynoJet) if we wanted to see NUMBERZZZ it'd probably be sitting about 100-150 higher apparently. There is a hell of a lot of car to handle right now but I don't see why going over 30# isn't in the future. Without even having ANY IDEA how to drive the car right it pulled a 10.98 at 129.8MPH. That wasn't building up boost, launching correctly, shifting at the limit, etc. The 60' was abysmal too but it's a learning process. The "oh poo poo" factor of a car that absolutely rails you in the seat and causes every organ to cower against your rear rib cage is unreal. I'm not afraid of it, but I don't think people truly realize what the hell a 9 second car feels like. That's all BEFORE the gigantic F1-A starts making boost around 4000 RPM. The car is heavy as hell too. It's in excellent shape and I decided to keep a full interior with a rear seat delete kit. Granted nothing works except power windows, locks, and switches. My biggest complaint is it runs VP Racing C16 which costs around $85 for 5 gallons. I'll get photos, videos, and numbers when I start to sort the car out more.
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Sep 1, 2011 15:25
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VibrioCholera posted:I got the car back and again, Tim Barth was amazing. Car is wonderful. Their quality of work there is top notch and I was shocked at where the price tag wasn't when they were done. The South must be really pissed off he's not there anymore.  Glad everything worked out for you. Be sure to keep us posted on your progress.
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Sep 1, 2011 16:10
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When should I do my first oil change on my '11 GT? It holds 2 gallons of the stuff but going by the oil life indicator it's not going to recommend a change until like 10,000 miles.
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Sep 1, 2011 19:16
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RockSmart posted:When should I do my first oil change on my '11 GT? It holds 2 gallons of the stuff but going by the oil life indicator it's not going to recommend a change until like 10,000 miles. Follow the manual. Engineers at an automotive company know more about the engine they designed than some nerds on the Internet.
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Sep 1, 2011 19:26
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What you're saying makes sense but I can't help feeling disappointed, phil.
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Sep 1, 2011 20:01
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RockSmart posted:When should I do my first oil change on my '11 GT? It holds 2 gallons of the stuff but going by the oil life indicator it's not going to recommend a change until like 10,000 miles.
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Sep 2, 2011 01:46
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Oh, JPC Racing's turbo kit made 853rwhp on a GT with just their turbo kit, forged internals, and a fuel system. lol  17psi, 853 rwhp, 840lbs of torque
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Sep 2, 2011 03:40
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Forged internals hardly counts a "just".
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Sep 2, 2011 04:09
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Oh hey, all they did was take the engine/oil pan/heads/crank/rods/pistons and put it all back together with forged rods and pistons! Anybody can do it! 
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Sep 2, 2011 04:23
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Forged internals hardly counts a "just". There are guys running those numbers on the stock engine. They did it because they are going to be turning up the boost (17psi is nothing for a 76mm turbo) in the future.
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Sep 2, 2011 06:01
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frozenphil posted:There are guys running those numbers on the stock engine. They did it because they are going to be turning up the boost (17psi is nothing for a 76mm turbo) in the future. Any idea of they're running the mt-82 or the automatic? I'm assuming for these big horsepower applications automatic is probably the only way to go right?
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Sep 2, 2011 18:25
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kronix posted:Any idea of they're running the mt-82 or the automatic? I'm assuming for these big horsepower applications automatic is probably the only way to go right? They haven't said yet. However, there are people using both transmissions at this power level so I'm not sure it's an issue. I know the manual needs the clutch replaced if you go much over stock power levels. Oh, I forgot to mention that they are running MS109 for fuel, but I don't think anyone is surprised by that. You don't force feed a 10.1 (down a point from stock) engine 17psi on pump gas. Even still, it made 832rwhp at 14psi on pump gas, lol.  Edit: Another thing to keep in mind is that they are leaving a thousand RPM on the table due to valve spring and fueling issues. If they get that fixed I wouldn't be surprised to see at least another 50hp on that graph. frozenphil fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 2, 2011 |
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Sep 2, 2011 21:30
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Jesus, that torque line is amazingly flat. I love the new 5.0 more and more every day.
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Sep 3, 2011 02:34
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I did a bad, bad thing. Ordered a 2012 Kona Blue GT. Apparently, it's hard to find a GT with Nav system, 3.73, and Brembo. These next 6 - 8 weeks are going to suck.
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Sep 3, 2011 20:31
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Presto posted:Pfft. When I took mine in for service at 10K, the display thingy still said I had something like 45% oil life left. Yeah, I was nervous with it showing 30% left at 7k so I took it in. I'm doing it every 5k now despite what the computer says.
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Sep 5, 2011 00:18
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BDawg posted:I did a bad, bad thing. drat right you did. You were supposed to order Grabber Blue. Don't worry, there's still time to change it  .
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Sep 5, 2011 01:40
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Radiohead71 posted:Yeah, I was nervous with it showing 30% left at 7k so I took it in. I'm doing it every 5k now despite what the computer says. I've reset my oil percentage twice in 2300 mies. It goes by time if you don't drive often. I checked it when I reset it, and it was perfectly clear. It was also perfectly clear at 1400 miles when it had it's first oil change. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Sep 5, 2011 |
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Sep 5, 2011 01:42
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BDawg posted:I did a bad, bad thing. Did you happen to notice if Sonic Blue made it back onto the dealer's order sheet? It's supposed to be an option soon, but it might not make it until 2013.
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Sep 5, 2011 02:10
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It's been raining hard here lately (tropical storm lee-style) and when I drove my 06 mustang today, I noticed water pouring, POURING down on the passenger side foot well from underneath the dashboard. The car was dry when I sat in it, and the water only poured down when I accelerated. Where is this water coming from and how the hell is it getting in?
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Sep 5, 2011 04:04
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A.o.D. posted:It's been raining hard here lately (tropical storm lee-style) and when I drove my 06 mustang today, I noticed water pouring, POURING down on the passenger side foot well from underneath the dashboard. The car was dry when I sat in it, and the water only poured down when I accelerated. Where is this water coming from and how the hell is it getting in? The seal at the base of your windshield is might be screwed on that side. There might also be water pooled on the plastic scuttle that is coming in when you accelerate.
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Sep 5, 2011 04:22
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So I just noticed a 2003 Mach 1 just popped up in my area and I'm tempted to go look at it. It's a stock 5 speed and has got 86k miles, anything I should look for if I decide to check it out?
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Sep 5, 2011 13:30
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kimbo305 posted:The seal at the base of your windshield is might be screwed on that side. There might also be water pooled on the plastic scuttle that is coming in when you accelerate. How difficult are these things to fix?
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Sep 5, 2011 17:35
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:So I just noticed a 2003 Mach 1 just popped up in my area and I'm tempted to go look at it. It's a stock 5 speed and has got 86k miles, anything I should look for if I decide to check it out? Not really. The New Edge Mustangs don't really have any common weak zones. I have over 120k miles on my '03 and, outside of normal wear and tear items, I've replaced the alternator once at 100k miles. I'm still on all my original bulbs (except for one foglight that got hit by a rock) in the drat thing. I'm due for shocks and bushings and such, but that's just normal wear and tear for the age. A.o.D. posted:How difficult are these things to fix? Any windshield place should be able to do it easily. Windshields are a pain in the rear end to remove and replace and I find it well worth the money to pay a professional to do it.
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Sep 5, 2011 20:32
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frozenphil posted:Did you happen to notice if Sonic Blue made it back onto the dealer's order sheet? It's supposed to be an option soon, but it might not make it until 2013. It has not. Sonic Blue was missing, as was my first choice, Lava Red. Although you can still get Lava Red seats. As for the comment about Grabber Blue, it's way better in person, but comes too close to what we call "Carolina Blue" for my tastes. My 2 biggest problems with the car are 1. I didn't know cars that cost $40k have visible antennas, and 2. Speedometer is a little too compressed, making it tough to read. Any aftermarket items I should order now like nice floor mats? BDawg fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Sep 5, 2011 |
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Sep 5, 2011 23:12
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BDawg posted:2. Speedometer is a little too compressed, making it tough to read. Couldn't agree more, especially coming from a digital speedo. For 90% of the test drive I had no loving idea how fast I was going. Q_res fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 01:19
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Cool thanks for the information Phil, I'll check it out probably tomorrow.
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Sep 6, 2011 01:23
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Radiohead71 posted:Yeah, I was nervous with it showing 30% left at 7k so I took it in. I'm doing it every 5k now despite what the computer says.
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Sep 6, 2011 04:11
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frozenphil posted:Not really. The New Edge Mustangs don't really have any common weak zones. I have over 120k miles on my '03 and, outside of normal wear and tear items, I've replaced the alternator once at 100k miles. I don't think it's the windshield. How difficult is the other thing to take care of.
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Sep 6, 2011 04:41
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Is buying a 66-70 Mustang as a first car when I have no mechanical experience a bad idea? I never wanted a Ford Fiesta etc so I've just waited until I can afford a nice car…starting to think a recent Mustang would be less hassle? Or should I just buy one from a good dealer and hope for the best/find a good mechanic?
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Sep 6, 2011 23:20
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A.o.D. posted:I don't think it's the windshield. How difficult is the other thing to take care of. Well ID where the leak is coming from first before considering fixing it.
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Sep 7, 2011 00:36
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Zurich posted:Is buying a 66-70 Mustang as a first car when I have no mechanical experience a bad idea? If you have to ask us, the answer is yes.
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Sep 7, 2011 00:59
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Zurich posted:Is buying a 66-70 Mustang as a first car when I have no mechanical experience a bad idea? I never wanted a Ford Fiesta etc so I've just waited until I can afford a nice car…starting to think a recent Mustang would be less hassle? Sure, just don't pay more than $500 for one. It's your first car, you're going to gently caress it up in ways you haven't even begun to imagine yet so make sure it isn't nice. Buy something that looks fast and isn't too expensive. Girls won't know it isn't fast, I promise.
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Sep 7, 2011 01:50
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kronix posted:Sure, just don't pay more than $500 for one. It's your first car, you're going to gently caress it up in ways you haven't even begun to imagine yet so make sure it isn't nice. This is loving truth. Even if you don't think it applies to you, it applies to you. I didn't think it applied to me, and I ended up having to pay to fix the damage to the nice truck I bought. On a lesser scale, even a good 5 years after I got my license (so, with the learner's permit, over 7 years of driving), I nearly kicked myself again for almost the same thing: learning to drive a stickshift and letting it roll back, ever so slowly, into a light pole in a parking lot. No damage, but if I'd been another few inches forward, it would've been at least a scratch. If this is your first car, you will do dumb poo poo, even if you think you're a responsible driver. Give it 2-3 years and get the car you really want, when 90% of your dumb poo poo quota is safely behind you. EDIT: Your post is ambiguous. If you've been driving someone else's car, as in driving it regularly as you would your own, for the same period of time, this doesn't necessarily apply. PT6A fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Sep 7, 2011 |
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Sep 7, 2011 03:27
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Holy poo poo. Just spent over an hour trying to fix my mach 1 grille delete. http://www.dallasmustang.com/mustang-parts/product/GRILLE-DELETE-PANELS-1999-2003-MACH-I-BLACK/6091 Ive had this on my car ghetto style for about 6 months, just using fat double stick tape, it looked like poo poo, so i decided to do it properly. Youre supposed to screw bolts in UNDERNEATH the bumper, i took the loving headlights out, still couldnt get my hand in there. gently caress this thing. Its literally impossible to install without taking your whole front god drat bumper off. time to buy the american muscle one with the plastic flaps because they actually engineered it for people not installing it in the manufacturing plant. Not even sure why websites sell this loving part as it comes from ford.
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Sep 7, 2011 04:58
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Chhhiiilllllll. It's not THAT hard to remove the bumper cover.someguy posted:take the headlights out, unclip the fender liners from the bumper. theres a couple push pins int he bottom, and then there will be 2 nuts that hold the bumper to the fender on either side. after that, there will be 2 push pins that hold the top of the bumper to the core support and it will come right off
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Sep 7, 2011 05:11
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