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JPM I'll try that. Otherwise i'll use z3n's method. Thanks guys.
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Sep 13, 2011 04:08
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Loucks posted:JPM I'll try that. When my F4i was wrecked I had to ride to the dealer with my clutch lever broken off like yours. As long as the cable barrel is still in the lever it should hold pretty steady. Don't let your hand off it and it probably won't go anywhere. Be safe and good luck!
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Sep 13, 2011 04:15
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Got a pair of vice grips? Rode over 500KM like that, through multiple cities. Not recommended.
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Sep 13, 2011 04:21
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Yeah, the cable barrel is still in the lever. I'll try riding it like that. I think I've learned to keep more tools in my tail bag. I think I've seen that picture before. At least now I know what to buy if I go for the vise grips. Edit: There is a time to ride like a dong. This isn't it.
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Sep 13, 2011 04:36
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I did something similar on vacation once, and managed to rig the clutch lever with a handful of zip ties. you might have to adjust the cable a bit tighter, but it'll get you home. Mine held up for around 1000 miles and 3 days before I got home and put the replacement lever on.
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Sep 13, 2011 04:38
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Loucks posted:Yeah, the cable barrel is still in the lever. I'll try riding it like that. I think I've learned to keep more tools in my tail bag.  ).
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Sep 13, 2011 05:57
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Nope, just disconnect them, drain then reconnect. The fuel pump will re-pressurise them next time you start it. And don't siphon the tank, drain it. Thanks for the help, I actually managed to get it started this morning though. I think the gas in the tank must have been ok, but there was just water in the lines or something. I got up an hour early so I could gently caress with the bike before work, put a fresh battery in so I could really lay on the starter, and gave it a go with the fuel enrichment knob out and the throttle wide open. On the second try it started right up and was purring like a kitten. The tank was half full, but I went right to a gas station to top it off just in case it was a bit watered down. It's running fine now, though. Now I just need to buy a new cover (and a lock for it), so this doesn't happen again.
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Sep 13, 2011 14:31
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I've noticed what could be the symptoms of a problem on my 2007 Kawasaki EX650. I've noticed the past couple of times riding it that the lights are starting to flicker, both on the gauges and the headlights themselves. This happens mostly at idle, I don't notice it when I'm actually riding, but at stop lights I can notice the dimming of lights with revs. Also during the day I can see that my neutral switch light flickers when I have a turn signal on, it dims and brightens with the use of the signal. To me this seems like the early stages of either a battery going bad (I don't know how old the battery is on this bike) or a charging system problem. I have changed alternators on cars plenty of times, but have no idea how to change, I guess a stator? Is that what it's called? Either way figured I'd ask yall, because I'd like to resolve this issue before I get left stranded 200 miles from home on some day ride.
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Sep 13, 2011 15:38
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Korwen posted:I've noticed what could be the symptoms of a problem on my 2007 Kawasaki EX650. Pull out ye ol' trusty multimeter and get us a couple of readings from the battery. Read it with the bike off, the bike on at idle and above 1500 rpm's. Let us know what voltages you're seeing.
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Sep 13, 2011 16:12
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The SV wouldn't even try to turn over last night. Guessing the tipover tweaked the clutch safety switch? Looking online it's not clear how it is actuated. Does the portion of the lever still bolted to the bar connect it when the lever is pulled? With a broken lever I don't really have the leverage to push it in. Here's hoping the new lever I bought this morning will fix the issue so I don't have to go cutting into things.
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Sep 13, 2011 16:43
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Pull out ye ol' trusty multimeter and get us a couple of readings from the battery. Read it with the bike off, the bike on at idle and above 5000 rpm's. Let us know what voltages you're seeing. Fixed. Gotta get it spinning to check the voltage. Loucks posted:The SV wouldn't even try to turn over last night. Guessing the tipover tweaked the clutch safety switch? Looking online it's not clear how it is actuated. Does the portion of the lever still bolted to the bar connect it when the lever is pulled? With a broken lever I don't really have the leverage to push it in. Here's hoping the new lever I bought this morning will fix the issue so I don't have to go cutting into things. The clutch lever has an arm on it that lets a little switch pop out when you pull it in. Because of how yours is broken, when you pull the clutch, it doesn't release the switch. You can disconnect the 2 prong connector on the clutch bar and jump the connectors on it with a wire, and then tape it with electric tape to make sure the wire stays in, and it'll start.
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Sep 13, 2011 17:18
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Z3n posted:The clutch lever has an arm on it that lets a little switch pop out when you pull it in. Because of how yours is broken, when you pull the clutch, it doesn't release the switch. You can disconnect the 2 prong connector on the clutch bar and jump the connectors on it with a wire, and then tape it with electric tape to make sure the wire stays in, and it'll start. That makes sense looking at the terribly-scanned manual I've got and the lever itself. Thanks.
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Sep 13, 2011 18:52
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Well the forks on my 82 CB900C are pitted and eating seals, has any one had any luck with getting the forks re-chromed? Or do I need to start tracking some 37mm forks from a newer bike and try make something work?
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Sep 13, 2011 21:47
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Man, why do I keep getting hosed with parking. Commuted to work the past two days. After work yesterday I went to school. I had already paid 250 dollars for a parking pass for a year, when I asked the guy if that will work for my bike he told me it will not and that I need a motorcycle permit that costs another 100 dollars. Not only do I not want to pay these greedy educators more money to park, they wont even let me get a second pass! You can choose only one or the other, leaving me with paying for metered parking, or paying 6 bucks for 1 class. I went to the highest ranking parking officer I could, and he just gave me a bullshit spiel. He didnt understand that many times motorcycles are used for recreational commuting, and that it isn't always practical. He told me to send an email to the parking offices. Instead I tried to talk to the Dean, but he doesn't address parking issues. At least I was able to get a higher ups phone number from them. After that bullshit I was livid. Today leaving the parking garage for work I couldn't find my stupid ticket, they made me pay full price at 23 dollars for the day. I really just wanted to drive out in both cases. Anyone have experiences of parking places sending tickets in the mail? I'm not made at the SV though, she saves me great time lane splitting my way out of the holland tunnel.
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Sep 13, 2011 22:14
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At my college campus you only have to pay 30 bucks a semester for the parking pass or $15 for the motorcycle pass. Only recently did I learn if you buy the $30 car parking pass, you don't need to buy the motorcycle pass. The fact that your school makes you get one or the other is just weird. Are they trying to cut down on the passes given out so that they can accommodate everyone with parking or something?
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Sep 13, 2011 22:19
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Get one of these and set it up over your SV when it's parked. http://urbanprankster.com/2008/11/fake-car-tent/ That's silly though, I started a new job this year and was pissed off because the parking garage has "NO MOTORCYCLES" signs everywhere. I found out by talking to the right people though, that if you get a membership you can take a bike in and put it in a special spot. Sounds like you already talked to everyone you could think of, though.
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Sep 13, 2011 22:22
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I suppose they are trying to give everyone a fair grab at a parking pass. I'm going to have to give this number a call, and see what the lady will do for me. The guy said motorcycle parking is pretty much used exclusively by professors. I just hate the fact that a supposedly cheap state school is trying to nickle and dime me dry. That car tent is awesome man. Love the idea, maybe during the night at a glance you couldn't tell something was up.
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Sep 13, 2011 22:25
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My school makes you buy both. 35 for the car 17.50 for the bike. It is bullshit, but at least the prices aren't extortion levels here.
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Sep 13, 2011 22:26
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evilnissan posted:Well the forks on my 82 CB900C are pitted and eating seals, has any one had any luck with getting the forks re-chromed? Probably best to find some new clean ones. Rechroming is pretty tough. First you strip the old chrome and create a huge enviro hazard, then if the base metal is OK you can hard chrome and grind it back. Check out Frank's in Evanston IL: http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/ They're pretty much the only ones doing aftermarket fork tubes. DIY solution is to knock the rust off, then fill the pits with JB weld and smooth it back down. I haven't tried this so I don't know how hard it is, but it seems easy enough. Your forks are already shot, but you'll spend $30 in seals on this experiment.
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Sep 13, 2011 22:48
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Dielectric posted:Probably best to find some new clean ones. Rechroming is pretty tough. First you strip the old chrome and create a huge enviro hazard, then if the base metal is OK you can hard chrome and grind it back. Can't say your wrong, but I know a re-chromer that used to be next door to our old shop that redid forks all the time. Of course, it might have just been the same one or two guys coming back over and over again to get it done right.  That said, a decent set of used forks for a 900C shouldn't be hard to come by. I imagine the 750-1000 take the same.
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Sep 13, 2011 23:32
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Is there a CA-recommended product for patching up basic vinyl seats? I have a CB250 Nighthawk that I got for $150ish under-price because the seat has two tears, both well away from the edge and on seamless parts of the seat. One about the size of an airline mini-soda can, the other the size of a tallboy or so. I reckon one big vinyl patch about the size of a sheet of paper could comfortably cover both. Any recommended product, or do I just buy a scrap piece of vinyl from an upholstery joint and slap some vinyl glue on the puppy? I'm not too concerned about it being pretty, just keeping the foam from getting wet or tearing, as I have vague plans to eventually put on a more 70s-style bench seat vice the 90s upswept look. Second question: do these fork seals look in need of replacing? Is there any good redline sign of them needing replacing other than them actually leaking fork oil (which they aren't doing yet)? Is replacing the seals and oil on a CB250 a doable job for someone with just basic household tools and a metric socket set? And while I have the forks off anyway, would gaiters look really goofy on a CB250, or would they help keep the front forks from looking so anemic? If it's possible to make a modern CB250 Nighthawk -  - look a little more like this, I wouldn't mind heading a bit in that direction: 
TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Sep 14, 2011 |
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Sep 14, 2011 02:47
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Sometimes on my bike I have trouble getting it into 1st gear, to get it into first when it refuses to go I have to let go of the clutch line and then pull the lever again and it's fine. Any ideas? 2005 SV650 about 6k miles.
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Sep 14, 2011 02:52
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titanium posted:Sometimes on my bike I have trouble getting it into 1st gear, to get it into first when it refuses to go I have to let go of the clutch line and then pull the lever again and it's fine. Any ideas? 2005 SV650 about 6k miles. Normal. Depending on the alignment of the dogs on the transmission gears, the bike might not want to go into first until it's moving a little bit and the dogs can line up better. The clutch has some resistance even when disengaged, which means the transmission spins a bit and you can then pop it into gear.
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Sep 14, 2011 03:12
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Z3n posted:The clutch lever has an arm on it that lets a little switch pop out when you pull it in. Because of how yours is broken, when you pull the clutch, it doesn't release the switch. You can disconnect the 2 prong connector on the clutch bar and jump the connectors on it with a wire, and then tape it with electric tape to make sure the wire stays in, and it'll start. I don't know about your bike but on mine jumpering this switch does all sorts of diddling with the fueling making the bike much less pleasant. Even if it's not obvious, once you get your lever fixed I don't recommend leaving it jumpered.
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Sep 14, 2011 05:23
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 See that nut for the steering stem? Where do I find a socket for that nut? I've seen recommendations for a 36mm socket but the sides are much more concave than a regular nut. Is there a special socket for these things?
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Sep 14, 2011 07:17
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evilnissan posted:Well the forks on my 82 CB900C are pitted and eating seals, has any one had any luck with getting the forks re-chromed? It's often close to the same price for pattern sliders, depending I guess on how much folks in your area want to do the job. http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CB_900_FC/82-83/ http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CB_900_FB_SC01/82-83/ See above.
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Sep 14, 2011 09:33
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Coredump posted:
A normal socket in the right size fits it fine.
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Sep 14, 2011 15:19
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I have a 2003 Honda Shadow 600, and I am having a problem with it. When I go out in the morning, I turn the key on, flip the fuel on, pull out the choke, and start it up. Normally, it will idle pretty well, I'll give it a couple turns on the throttle to give it some gas, and can start my day. Lately, it has been dying when I give it some gas, even sitting there with my clutch pulled in. If I slowly let the clutch out and give it some gas, it will die. About the third time I do this, it will go, but it isn't a constant growl from the exhaust - it is pretty intermittent, almost more of a cough. After about 5 minutes it runs pretty normally, but this really sucks because I don't get up to speed like normal when I'm pulling out from a stop sign or making a turn. I have had it die on me in the middle of a turn before when pulling out of my apartment parking lot, and that really sucks because I'm sitting there ready to be ran over by a car. I've tried sitting in my parking lot revving it like a tit for 5 minutes but I still have the same problem, and it's only when I let my clutch out. Like I said, after a few minutes of praying I don't have my bike shut off while driving, it's all good. I have a couple ideas. My first thought is that it hasn't warmed up properly when I start out, but I don't think this is the case because even after taking the time to sit there and let it warm up, I still have this problem when stopping and going. My next though is maybe there's a problem with my fuel filter, but it isn't a constant problem like if something were blocking the fuel path. I don't have anything to hook up to my battery to check the readings, but it starts up great, doesn't sit there and turn over multiple times before catching and my lights don't dim when I give it some gas. Any other ideas? I feel like the dumbest motorcycle rider posting about this, but it's getting frustrating as of late. Maybe it is just taking a long time to warm up.
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Sep 14, 2011 15:20
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Z3n posted:A normal socket in the right size fits it fine. So why are the sides on that nut so caved in when normal sockets and nuts have flat sides? Does that serve any purpose?
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Sep 14, 2011 15:33
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Looks cool, brah.
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Sep 14, 2011 15:35
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So I replaced the starter on my 2001 Ninja 250, hoping that would solve the problem of it not starting, but I was wrong. Even with the new starter (used from ebay)I don't get anything when I push the starter button. Not a clicking or anything. Just like last time if I touch the contacts with a screwdriver it starts right up. I suppose it's possible I got a bad starter, but somehow I think it's something else. I have a couple theories what do you guys think. 1.Wires leading from battery to starter are bad 2.Something is loose or diconnected at the handlebar 3.I have bad luck and bought a broken starter 4.Something else I don't know about
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Sep 14, 2011 16:02
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Z3n posted:Normal. Depending on the alignment of the dogs on the transmission gears, the bike might not want to go into first until it's moving a little bit and the dogs can line up better. The clutch has some resistance even when disengaged, which means the transmission spins a bit and you can then pop it into gear. Awesome, was worried something was wrong but it happens on my TW too. Thanks for lessening my stressening.
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Sep 14, 2011 16:16
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Endless Mike posted:Looks cool, brah. They may do it because it's a low-profile nut to increase surface area or some poo poo. Maybe Suzuki dealers get a special tool #459681 to do it up with.
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Sep 14, 2011 16:19
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Dial M for MURDER posted:So I replaced the starter on my 2001 Ninja 250, hoping that would solve the problem of it not starting, but I was wrong. Even with the new starter (used from ebay)I don't get anything when I push the starter button. Not a clicking or anything. Just like last time if I touch the contacts with a screwdriver it starts right up. I suppose it's possible I got a bad starter, but somehow I think it's something else. I have a couple theories what do you guys think. Sounds like your starter circuit is bad. The switch doesn't actually make the bike start, it just completes a path to a relay, which completes the path to the starter. Jumping the relay bypasses the control part of the circuit, so you know it's not the starter. It wasn't the starter before, either. Check your wiring diagram. Every piece that's not the starter, battery, or the wires between those is suspect. This includes the starter switch, any interlock switches (clutch, neutral, kickstand, etc), and the starter relay. It also includes any connectors and wires, including ground connections.
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Sep 14, 2011 17:11
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Dial M for MURDER posted:So I replaced the starter on my 2001 Ninja 250, hoping that would solve the problem of it not starting, but I was wrong. Even with the new starter (used from ebay)I don't get anything when I push the starter button. Not a clicking or anything. Just like last time if I touch the contacts with a screwdriver it starts right up. I suppose it's possible I got a bad starter, but somehow I think it's something else. I have a couple theories what do you guys think. I'd start with something really basic: Figure out if when you press the starter button, if you're getting the correct voltage at the starter solenoid. If you're not, then work your way upstream, checking cutouts and safety switches. If you are, then you need to replace the starter solenoid/relay, not the starter. americanzero4128 posted:I have a 2003 Honda Shadow 600, and I am having a problem with it. When I go out in the morning, I turn the key on, flip the fuel on, pull out the choke, and start it up. Normally, it will idle pretty well, I'll give it a couple turns on the throttle to give it some gas, and can start my day. Lately, it has been dying when I give it some gas, even sitting there with my clutch pulled in. If I slowly let the clutch out and give it some gas, it will die. About the third time I do this, it will go, but it isn't a constant growl from the exhaust - it is pretty intermittent, almost more of a cough. After about 5 minutes it runs pretty normally, but this really sucks because I don't get up to speed like normal when I'm pulling out from a stop sign or making a turn. I have had it die on me in the middle of a turn before when pulling out of my apartment parking lot, and that really sucks because I'm sitting there ready to be ran over by a car. I've tried sitting in my parking lot revving it like a tit for 5 minutes but I still have the same problem, and it's only when I let my clutch out. Like I said, after a few minutes of praying I don't have my bike shut off while driving, it's all good. Sounds like you either got some bad gas or have minor clogs in your carbs. Get some fresh gas in there, add a bunch of seafoam to the tank, and then go run the piss out of it.
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Sep 14, 2011 17:59
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Sounds like your starter circuit is bad. The switch doesn't actually make the bike start, it just completes a path to a relay, which completes the path to the starter. Jumping the relay bypasses the control part of the circuit, so you know it's not the starter. It wasn't the starter before, either. Just to be clear, I replaced the starter solenoid, I don't know if that came through or not or whether that matters. The bike did start when bought it, but after taking the battery out, removing some neon lights rigged into a fuse and removing the broken mess at the front end, it won't know. Do I use a voltmeter to test things or is this more a loose connection, make sure its secure deal?
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Sep 14, 2011 18:01
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Dial M for MURDER posted:Just to be clear, I replaced the starter solenoid, I don't know if that came through or not or whether that matters. The bike did start when bought it, but after taking the battery out, removing some neon lights rigged into a fuse and removing the broken mess at the front end, it won't know. Do I use a voltmeter to test things or is this more a loose connection, make sure its secure deal? Same advice as before stands. Sounds like you're not getting the appropriate voltage from the starter button to the starter solenoid then. But you won't know until you test it with the multimeter. Also, check that the fuse in the starter solenoid isn't blown.
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Sep 14, 2011 18:03
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Ok I'll start checking things when I get home tonight. The fuse looks ok to me. When I touch both contacts of the starter solenoid with the voltmeter it seems like I was getting 12.5v or so, if I thumb the start should I expect to see it jump?
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Sep 14, 2011 19:39
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Z3n posted:Sounds like you either got some bad gas or have minor clogs in your carbs. Get some fresh gas in there, add a bunch of seafoam to the tank, and then go run the piss out of it. I'll give the seafoam a try, because I've had this happen across multiple tanks of gas. From what I've read, it just breaks down the carbon buildup in my engine, correct? Is there anything else I need to know about before using it? If I have clogs in my carbs, what can I do about that (or is that what the seafoam does)?
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Sep 14, 2011 20:15
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Dial M for MURDER posted:Ok I'll start checking things when I get home tonight. The fuse looks ok to me. When I touch both contacts of the starter solenoid with the voltmeter it seems like I was getting 12.5v or so, if I thumb the start should I expect to see it jump? Look at this picture. Note there are two complete circuits. One goes from the battery, (fuse) solenoid, starter, ground. This one is fine. There's another. Battery, (fuse) switches, solenoid coil, ground. This one is messed up. Put the black lead of your multimeter solidly against a frame ground. Check for voltage at both sides of all switches. If you never get voltage anywhere on any switch, you've got bad wiring or fuse.
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Sep 14, 2011 20:15
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