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clutchpuck posted:Do you know if the carbs are balanced properly? If they're way off you get way less power and gas mileage. They certainly aren't done to precision. I used a length of hose and a blob of oil in the middle. Connected each end to each carb and started it up, watching where the oil went (sucking up into one or the other) and adjusted the balance screw until the oil remained neutral. Scientifically there is probably a big gap in where it is and where it needs to be, but for what it's worth there WAS a huge discrepancy before I started. Trouble is, now that they're 'balanced' I haven't seen much of a result - still mileage a little over half of what it should be (though better than it was) and still limited to 120km/h on the highway. I haven't been able to test timing or valve condition. I was just looking for a jumping off point before poo poo got real.
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Sep 26, 2011 21:42
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Hey duders, I asked this in the "Tell me what to buy" thread but I thought it might be more applicable here. I just moved to CA  , the bay area to be specific. I'm trying to pickup a Honda CB and this guy emailed me about this bike he's had for a while.   He wants $1000 obo including a parts bike, which is a great deal but the title is salvage on a theft recovery. My question is, what does that entail (specifically in california)? I know that salvage bikes are "more okay" than cars, but what kind of issues am I going to run into re: registration/insurance down the road? Anything else I should be leery of? Shnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Sep 26, 2011 |
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Sep 26, 2011 22:01
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Shnitzel posted:Anything else I should be weary of? Leery? The whole deal, that looks like a horror show. I mean if you want to endlessly wrench on an old wrecked CB, go for it but pay like half that. If you want to ride something semi-dependable, add $500 to your budget and look for something in better shape. I know I am painting with broad strokes here, but how much do you like spider infestations?
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Sep 26, 2011 22:30
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clutchpuck posted:Leery? Haha, derp. I was under the impression that a theft recovery salvage didn't mean that there was extensive damage, rather it was more of a write off by the company. He says that the previous owner got insurance payout for it, then they recovered it but by that time had bought a new bike, which is why he sold it to the current owner. My budget is around $1500, so I was planning on maybe snagging it for 800 and putting the rest into reg fees/minor repairs. I just didn't know what kind of ordeal registration/insurance was going to be Shnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 26, 2011 |
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Sep 26, 2011 22:37
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I am not so concerned about the salvage title thing as much as I am about how old it is, how long it's obviously been sitting, how much rust is inevitably going to be in the tank, the sticky gummy carburetor insides, the tight cocoon of spider silk, and how you can definitely find a better deal on a clean-titled runner. What's that dripping down the left side of the engine case? I am not in CA but I believe the rules are similar - you'll have to get a state safety inspection to register a salvage vehicle. But that looks like 1 step removed from a basket case, you're going to have to put effort into making it good again, and do you really want to have a salvage bike to show for that work? Just my opinion though. If you're looking for a specific model of CB or whatever, otoh, that's different.
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Sep 26, 2011 22:55
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clutchpuck posted:I am not so concerned about the salvage title thing as much as I am about how old it is, how long it's obviously been sitting, how much rust is inevitably going to be in the tank, the sticky gummy carburetor insides, the tight cocoon of spider silk, and how you can definitely find a better deal on a clean-titled runner. Here's his email: quote:I have a 74 CB 550 that I am willing to sell. It runs but, does need a little TLC (carbs cleaned and re-jetted) and a good bath. It has been sitting for almost 2 years. I have lots of extra parts for it including a parts bike. I have added a dyna S ignition, new cables, Kerker 4 into 1 exhaust and an aftermarket air filter. (That's the reason the carbs need jetting). The tank is REALLY clean inside. It does have a salvage title from being stolen before I bought it. It was stolen and the previous owner took the insurance money. Then it was found and returned to the owner. That's when I bought it. It was missing parts from the theft and that's how I bought it then added the missing parts. I would like $1000 for it but, I'm open to offers. Let me know! It's right in my price range, and i've been lookin for a 74-77 CB550 about over a year, the market in the bay area is pretty dry atm. Honestly though, I don't know what that stuff is dripping down the case (I thought it was oil, but it's coming from the carbs/petcock so maybe gas?)
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Sep 26, 2011 23:41
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I replied in the other thread, but I wouldn't go for that unless it was $250. Half going price for the fact that it has a salvage title, and another half off that for the fact that the paperwork hasn't been done. You're gonna pay through the nose for the salvage paperwork if it was started and unfinished (back registration is a possibility in that case), and the entire process is expensive on it's own (typically around 200$ in fees PLUS whatever normal registration is).
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Sep 27, 2011 00:30
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Hey, today I rebuilt the carbs on my friend's 1978 Honda CB400TII (Hawk), and the bike can actually rev all the way up to redline around 10,000 RPM. I took it out for a test ride, however, and it seemed to be really low on power around 1/4 throttle, or between 3,000 and 4,000 RPM. I hit 4,500 RPM, however, and the bike just takes off like a rocket. Also, after I rode around for 10 minutes or so in a hilly area, the engine died flat and would not restart. The electric worked, but I couldn't get it to spark over, with either the e-start or the kickstart. After walking it back the two blocks or so to my house (I was riding in circles, no plates on it yet), it fired right up, and held a solid idle for the 10 minutes or so I let it. I'm not as concerned with it dying (could be an intake rubber leak or something equally likely for a 35 year old bike), just with it being low on power in that early range, because that's the range you ride around town in. Anything these bikes are known to be renoundly bad at? EDIT: VVVVVVVV Because they can? Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Sep 27, 2011 |
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Sep 27, 2011 03:57
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"F/S: Chris Peris' Iron Horse BMW/ESP (Evan Steel Performance) AMA "A" Superbike" http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=381725 I get why this bike is so expensive to begin with, but what I don't get is why the brakes and data system (what does this even do?) for the bike is worth $15k. Someone break it down for me, please.
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Sep 27, 2011 06:19
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The brakes are probably custom deals with some voodoo going on for crazy clamping force/ fade resistance / stability / etc. As for the data - that's dyno / race-tuned computer mapping which costs them a poo poo-ton of time and such to develop to get the most out of the bike. Intrinsically it's not worth much but to someone planning on racing that's a huge chunk of time potentially saved on testing / tuning.
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Sep 27, 2011 07:03
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Whiteboy posted:"F/S: Chris Peris' Iron Horse BMW/ESP (Evan Steel Performance) AMA "A" Superbike" The proper brembo stuff is basically unobtanium...you have to get it from factory works bikes and stuff. You have to have some sort of factory connection to get it, generally. That's for the lines, the pads, the rotors, the calipers (likely the single piece billet monoblocks), and the master cylinder (another billet item), plus the relevant remote adjusters and poo poo. And then the same routine for the rear setup too. The datalogging stuff is hugely complete. You're talking about knowing suspension travel, Gs, GPS data, throttle application, RPM, braking pressure, lean angle, speed, blah blah blah blah blah. It's basically every measurable variable that can take place on a bike in ultra high resolution. It's useless unless you've got a rider who can put in consistent laps though...basically only worthwhile for top level racers. Lower level guys can see gains from it, but generally anyone who can't qualify for a national grid isn't consistent enough to really take advantage of it.
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Sep 27, 2011 07:23
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Interesting. I thought the data was just from something like a power commander...just a little fancier, haha. I didn't know the brakes were that special either.
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Sep 27, 2011 08:15
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Urgh, it pretty much costs $25k to buy an S1000RR off the showroom floor here in Australia.
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Sep 27, 2011 12:13
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Urgh, it pretty much costs $25k to buy an S1000RR off the showroom floor here in Australia. Import one from America and even with the import/customs tax, you'll save money! 
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Sep 27, 2011 12:32
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Geirskogul posted:My friend just picked up a '78 Honda CB400TII ("Hawk II"), and while most of the bike is actually in pretty good nick (aside from a split carb bowl overflow tube causing a gas leak in one of the carbs - fixed quite easily), except that we think it's missing the air filter element. Under the seat and air filter cover, there's a top, open wire cage, some air space, and then a honeycomb wire cage packed with wire mesh. The bottom mesh is pretty thin, but we don't know if it's the actual filter. Is there another filter element (paper, foam, etc?) that goes between the two wire plates? If so, where can I find such a thing, because bike bandit has no info about such a thing. If it's anything like my 1980, it'll be a foam filter that you impregnate with gear oil.
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Sep 27, 2011 12:57
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Urgh, it pretty much costs $25k to buy an S1000RR off the showroom floor here in Australia. Clearly the solution is to import Peris's bike.
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Sep 27, 2011 17:14
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Going to check out this guys bikes: http://neworleans.craigslist.org/mcy/2619455585.html DMZ 400 and KLR 400 Same price for both, thoughts? Couldn't find a good online comparison. I'll be riding 80% street riding
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Sep 27, 2011 19:49
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TylerC 2.0 posted:Going to check out this guys bikes: Can't tell from those pictures but I'm guessing that is a DRZ-E model which isn't easily street registered. Probably the same deal on the KLX. Otherwise I think they are very similar bikes.
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Sep 27, 2011 20:01
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I thought we used to have a tire thread somewhere around here. Anyways, is 335 to much for a set of Michelin Road 2's installed on an sv?
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Sep 27, 2011 22:12
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Shnitzel posted:Here's his email: I have a 1976 Honda CB550 four that I have in my garage just sitting. It was my primary bike for a long time but the battery drained itself of acid literally a week after I put on fresh tires so I just started riding my VFR750. I have 3 scooters and another Honda Hawk NT650 that I need to work on before I can even think about the CB550. Shoot me an email at 3vilcrayon at gmail dot com and we can go over it some more.
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Sep 27, 2011 22:48
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double post. please delete
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Sep 27, 2011 23:04
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Ethox posted:I thought we used to have a tire thread somewhere around here. Anyways, is 335 to much for a set of Michelin Road 2's installed on an sv? No, it's not, that seems pretty reasonable considering mount and balance. Not a great deal, but not a huge ripoff, either. Tire thread is located here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3174783
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Sep 27, 2011 23:08
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Zen you're the best dude, thanks for answering every question I ask, all the time.
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Sep 27, 2011 23:25
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NitroSpazzz posted:Can't tell from those pictures but I'm guessing that is a DRZ-E model which isn't easily street registered. Probably the same deal on the KLX. KLX400/DRZ400 are the same bike under 2 different brands. Can't tell if they're the E or the S models though...you'd have to see if they're plated or not. Ethox, np 
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Sep 27, 2011 23:42
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Thanks for the info guys, they are both non street legal and therefore not for me.
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Sep 28, 2011 02:42
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TylerC 2.0 posted:Going to check out this guys bikes: If LA is lax on getting things road legal the E model is higher power. You'd need to get USD forks and some other bits if you wanna convert it to a higher power SM model. Probably at least another 1000++ depending on how you go about it to get it street legal. You could find an SM already for about that same price, already street legal for sure. I'd pass if you don't want to do any extra work. EDIT - 2 seconds too late apparently haha. You'll find something no worries!
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Sep 28, 2011 03:45
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Z3n posted:Ethox, np Word Z3n, thanks for the info, much appreciated.  TylerC 2.0 posted:Oh poo poo TylerC... Why don't you post in TFR anymore?
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Sep 28, 2011 07:11
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Any tips for parking a bike? I read the Ninja250 faq and there was a tip about parking the bike facing uphill since you'll need gravity to help reverse yourself. I made that mistake once and thankfully my friend was able to help push me back up the incline a couple feet. The other day I parked facing uphill in another friend's driveway and when I went to leave, I didn't get enough momentum coming back down and got stuck in a groove between the driveway and the road. Not a big deal since I could just ride back up the driveway a little bit and retry, but it was kind of shortsighted of me. And parking between cars along the street, I always seem to be a little too close to one of the cars. Similarly, there's some motorcycle parking spots near my work and I'm not confident enough to back in and potentially knock everyone else's bikes down so I just always park front-in.  Any specific tips? Or just practice more? I'm 5'6" and I can barely get my feet flat on my SV650 and get stable enough to push myself backwards with my legs. Next week I'm getting a Corbin seat which is supposed to be significantly lower than the stock seat so hopefully that'll help.
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Sep 28, 2011 15:16
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lowcrabdiet posted:Any tips for parking a bike? I read the Ninja250 faq and there was a tip about parking the bike facing uphill since you'll need gravity to help reverse yourself. I made that mistake once and thankfully my friend was able to help push me back up the incline a couple feet. You can also push the bike backwards without sitting on it. I do that a lot to move bikes in and out of my garage where its kinda crowded. Keep the bike in neutral, side stand down and stand it up. I use one hand on the bars and one on the tail section and just push it backwards or forwards and steer with the bars. If you need to put it down, let it sit on the side stand. Be careful not to drop it on the right side where there is no stand.
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Sep 28, 2011 15:30
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 My friend bought a ZR-7 with an oil leak. It was only 200€ and he can sell it to a mechanic friend for the same anyway, so no harm done if it can't be fixed. The oil leak seems to be the only thing wrong with it. We didn't understand at first why those black side plastics were broken, but it was pretty obvious once we got to looking for the leak. Being lazy and getting the battery out without taking the tank off means someone has to hold the tank up for a while and he is putting a lot of pressure on those weak plastics. We didn't spend much time on it, just put oil in and ran it to see where it comes out because the seller didn't know. The first time it didn't leak but we smelt something burn. The second time there was no smell and it did leak. It leaks from that bit with the air filter, which was about a third submerged in oil. I assume my friend didn't overfill it, I will probably call him names if he did. I figured I would post this in case there are other well known causes, because we don't know a whole lot about this stuff.
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Sep 29, 2011 00:10
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How effective is your average disc lock? I have a Kryptolok DFS 10 Disc Lock and I was wondering if it makes a difference putting it on at night or if I'm just adding 2 seconds to the time it would take to steal a bike.
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Sep 29, 2011 00:33
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shimmy: There's a vent tube that goes from the top of the cylinder head down to the airbox. It might have been overfilled before or the engine might be puking oil out of it anyway. The first is not too bad, drain and clean the airbox and see if it fills back up. After checking the proper oil level of course. If it does fill up, the engine is puking oil through the vent and that is a bad thing. I don't know all the reasons that could cause it, but one of them is that the piston rings are bad and that the compression stroke forces air into the crankcase which then forces oil out of the vent tube.* For a €200 bike and no sentimental attachment, that is a selling reason. I'm guessing it was just overfilled by the previous owner, drain and see what happens. CombatMedic: It's just a minor nuisance for pros who really want your bike, but it might be the detail that prevents random rear end in a top hat from joyriding it. Since your insurance might require it, might as well pop one on. Ola fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 00:37
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It makes it harder for joyriders, but wouldn't affect 2 dudes with a van in the slightest.
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Sep 29, 2011 00:38
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CombatMedic posted:How effective is your average disc lock? I have a Kryptolok DFS 10 Disc Lock and I was wondering if it makes a difference putting it on at night or if I'm just adding 2 seconds to the time it would take to steal a bike. 99.9% of the time, it's going to be the latter. A vast majority of your motorcycle thefts are just going to be a few guys picking the thing up and tossing it in a van/truck. Peace of mind, as far as anti-theft goes, is best covered by comprehensive insurance.
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Sep 29, 2011 00:39
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Re: oil leak - How's the breather system on the bike? Make sure the breather tubes are clean and clear, and (if it has one) the catchcan drain tube is okay. Re: disc lock - as others said, most times three guys just drop it in a van or truck, won't help you. Disc locks are just about as effective as my steering fork lock - it'll stop a joyrider. It looks really lame, but when I'm going to be leaving my bike for a bit, I use one of those cables and a padlock and lock it to a dogwood tree it's parked under. Again, looks really lame, but effective.
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Sep 29, 2011 01:01
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Anyone have any thoughts on the el-cheapo paddock stands they have on Amazon for $80 versus a set of nice PitBull stands that are on Craigslist for $140 for the set? What does everyone use for basic storage / maintenance purposes? http://www.amazon.com/Front-Spool-Motorcycle-Sport-Paddock/dp/B004HMVNA8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1317254548&sr=8-2
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Sep 29, 2011 01:04
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I just bought an '04 Honda CBR F4i w/ 13,000 miles. I just finished up doing the usual "new" bike maintenance and I've come to a head scratcher. The clutch engagement point was a centimeter pull (at most) on the lever but the bike ran and shifted. In my infinite wisdom I decided to adjust the clutch to see if I could even it out a bit. Now, the clutch drags when all the way "disengaged". I've adjusted both the lever and the clutch "arm" endlessly to no avail. -Bike starts in neutral but will not start in gear (clutch lever in) -I can feel the clutch dragging when in gear and rocking bike forward/backward (clutch lever in) -Screwdriver in clutch arm (right above clutch cover) can't fully disengage clutch Any thoughts on this? Or are my clutch/springs dead? As it sits now...  Bonus shot of the other bike, which runs great (for now...) 
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Sep 29, 2011 01:11
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The clutch will always drag a bit when the bike is cold. Wet plate clutches don't freely disengage when you pull the lever in when the bike is cold. Adjust it so freeplay is about a quarter inch before it starts to pull on teh cable and you should be good. Cinder, the cheapy ones are just that...if you can swing it, get the pitbulls, they're really nice.
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Sep 29, 2011 01:37
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Z3n posted:The clutch will always drag a bit when the bike is cold. Wet plate clutches don't freely disengage when you pull the lever in when the bike is cold. Adjust it so freeplay is about a quarter inch before it starts to pull on the cable and you should be good.
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Sep 29, 2011 01:43
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I'm assuming it would be best to let some mechanic replace the sprockets/chain on my motorcycle considering I don't have any tools?
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Sep 29, 2011 09:02
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