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Ziploc posted:I did. I'm still trying to find out why. Did you make them look more red when you made them like that? Are they new driving lights? Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:His taillights are now the circle(brakelights) instead of the center rectangles. I'm looking into retrofitting another bulb/led ring into the housing to get the white backup light back.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:43
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Phone posted:My paint looks loving terrible, but I'm just going to vinyl wrap it over winter. I think it'll be about $300 dollars for the vinyl, applicator glue and some squeegees. I'm intrigued. Link? I don't feel like dropping $2k to paint my car but a few hundred to fix the dents and $300 to wrap it sounds fine.
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Oct 27, 2011 04:05
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376442 Fatcow found a place that sells the vinyl, but I didn't bother trying to look for it.
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Oct 27, 2011 04:14
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Looks great. I'm down for this, especially as a learning experience.
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Oct 27, 2011 15:42
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Where can I buy those coolant lines for the idle air control valve? I'm having trouble finding them.
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Oct 28, 2011 21:19
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Grayham posted:Where can I buy those coolant lines for the idle air control valve? I'm having trouble finding them. Generic low pressure hose from Autozone will work. Just bring an old piece to match up the size/length. If you want the exact one. http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/categories/Miata-%7B47%7D-MX%252d5/1990%252d1997/Cooling/?sort=featured&page=2
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Oct 29, 2011 16:59
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Anyone have experience with Sparco Sprint V's? I'm looking at installing the hardtop hard dog bar + harness bar over the winter in my '99, and am trying to figure out what seats to look at. I need probably 2" lower than stock seats to pass the broomstick test, and I'm relatively comfortable making my own mounting brackets, but if there's an easier way I'd love to know. I'll be getting a 6point - I might have a shop do the install for this, but we'll see. Plans for next summer include as many tackdays and autox as I can afford. Comedy option: ebay brides. Probably fine for autox and trackdays, which is all that's on track for the next few years. I'm about 6' 155lb. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Oct 29, 2011 |
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Oct 29, 2011 20:09
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FatCow posted:Generic low pressure hose from Autozone will work. Just bring an old piece to match up the size/length. Thanks.
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Oct 29, 2011 20:27
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TrueChaos posted:Anyone have experience with Sparco Sprint V's? I'm looking at installing the hardtop hard dog bar + harness bar over the winter in my '99, and am trying to figure out what seats to look at. I need probably 2" lower than stock seats to pass the broomstick test, and I'm relatively comfortable making my own mounting brackets, but if there's an easier way I'd love to know. I'll be getting a 6point - I might have a shop do the install for this, but we'll see. Plans for next summer include as many tackdays and autox as I can afford. Being 6' depends on where you are 6': torso or legs? You're going to have some fun trying to get underneath the bar either way. The difference between the Sprint V and the Start 2007 is that the Sprint V has steel bars whereas the Start is fiberglass, it depends on how you think each seat will hold up in a worse case scenario. Early next year I'm doing Start 2007's in my 94, but luckily I'm 5'8 so I'll have more luck getting under the bar. I did my last trackday and was holding back because I'd rather be safer than sorry when taking some corners at CMP.
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Oct 30, 2011 06:23
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If you want to get really low ( ), you need a side mount seat (recaro, bride, etc, not sure what the sparcos are) bolted directly to the floor with the rear humps cut out of the car.When my recaro was on the stock sliders, it was pretty much just the same height as the stock seat. The sliders+floor humps add about 2.5 inches. Also on stock sliders, the seat was offset to the left by maybe an inch, which I think happens with all seats because the stock miata seat itself is offset. The actual seat doesn't really matter as long as it's flat on the bottom and thin enough to actually sit close to the floor, but the way the brides are setup give you an extra little bit of room because you can shove them between the space the base of the brackets and the bolt heads take up, which isn't that much really, maybe half an inch, but I guess that could make a difference.
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Oct 30, 2011 09:34
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Phone posted:Being 6' depends on where you are 6': torso or legs? You're going to have some fun trying to get underneath the bar either way. The difference between the Sprint V and the Start 2007 is that the Sprint V has steel bars whereas the Start is fiberglass, it depends on how you think each seat will hold up in a worse case scenario. Legs, thankfully - 3'6" to the top of my hips. I don't care about keeping sliders, as I'm the only one who drives the car. I've been reading more about the ebay brides - it seems that there really isn't much difference aside from the fabric they use, and that they hold up in a crash fine. Am I crazy here?
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Oct 30, 2011 18:06
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TrueChaos posted:Legs, thankfully - 3'6" to the top of my hips. I don't care about keeping sliders, as I'm the only one who drives the car. Can't say for sure but the thing about 2 seaters is you have the rear firewall right behind you, regardless of the seat, if it breaks you're at most going to still be held in the same area especially with a 5 point harness. It's 1000x more risky in a 4 seater where if the seat breaks off, you can flop backwards into rag doll death. I dunno. I take no responsability for your impending death.
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Oct 30, 2011 23:43
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If there was a danger of fiberglass/CF/kevlar seats breaking in accidents, they wouldn't have FIA stickers on them.
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Oct 31, 2011 00:11
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Finally got around to modifying my stock MSM. Modifying these cars is pretty tricky due to the way the stock ECU handles more boost, but fortunately I believe I found the next best thing to throwing in a new ECU. If you go with a flyin miata or begi intake kit and turn up the boost these cars will hesitate and hit a boost cut making them not so much fun to drive. The intake kit that I have installed on my car relocates the MAF from the airbox to just before the throttle body tube. From what I understand this allows the sensor to get better readings and tune the car appropriately. The dyno charts from other cars with this kit show a substantial improvement in A/F ratios as well as a MUCH flatter torque curve. Overall I'm impressed with how my car runs now. The turbo spools sooner and makes a lot more overall power as well. I still need exhaust and I want one of those miataroadster short shifters, although I'm probably not going to change the downpipe for fear of boost creep.
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Oct 31, 2011 00:13
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DJ Commie posted:If there was a danger of fiberglass/CF/kevlar seats breaking in accidents, they wouldn't have FIA stickers on them. It's cool man, the eBay knockoffs have knockoff FIA certs, too.
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Oct 31, 2011 03:00
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TrueChaos posted:I've been reading more about the ebay brides - it seems that there really isn't much difference aside from the fabric they use, and that they hold up in a crash fine. Am I crazy here? Yes. Safety equipment is not where you want to go e-bay knockoffs. If you intend to use them on track you'll need a back brace as well since they are not FIA approved. Also look at the Momo Start. That's what I have in my car and it's fairly comfortable and comes close enough to fitting in a Miata.
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Oct 31, 2011 03:01
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FatCow posted:Yes. Safety equipment is not where you want to go e-bay knockoffs. If you intend to use them on track you'll need a back brace as well since they are not FIA approved. Alright that's what I figured. Time to find a place around here with Sprint V's, starts, etc in stock...
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Oct 31, 2011 03:36
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Just picked up my 06 NC over the weekend, absolutely loving it. The only thing wrong with it (besides the suspension and some other things) is the cigarette lighter socket - it doesn't work. I actually pulled it out and it wasn't even hooked up to any wires. I use this constantly for work to charge a GPS. Anyone know of a guide somewhere showing how I could remove this part of my dash and see if I can hook it back up? If the wiring is gone I was thinking of doing one of those add-a-circuit kits and wiring it up to that. edit: found a random google image search picture that helped me out. Just pried off the small triangular sides by the stereo and the little coin holder in front of the shifter. I was able to see the wire that was disconnected and plug it back in! hooray poxin fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Oct 31, 2011 |
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Oct 31, 2011 17:17
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poxin posted:edit: found a random google image search picture that helped me out. Just pried off the small triangular sides by the stereo and the little coin holder in front of the shifter. I was able to see the wire that was disconnected and plug it back in! hooray I guess the key question is "Why was it unplugged in the first place". It was done for a reason... look out for smoky smells or popped fuses over the next few days? 
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Oct 31, 2011 19:54
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Yeah I'm keeping that in mind. The first thing I checked was the fuse for the outlet, it was okay. Maybe the previous owner just kept popping it with some higher powered device. Now it seems I have another issue. It just started raining and my trunk and cabin are getting some water in them  This is with the softtop. I checked the grate for the rain gutter but it's clean and any other information I find about this is on miata.net which is closed for the time being.
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Oct 31, 2011 20:16
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gently caress those 5/16" coolant lines running along the right side of the engine. I managed to replace the one coming from the back of the engine to the oil cooler without taking off the intake manifold. I gave up trying to replace the one coming from the oil cooler to the IACV since it didn't seem to be leaking.
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Oct 31, 2011 20:44
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Alright so an alarming smell has cropped up with my little Miata. It's a 1999 with 95K miles on it. When I was idling in traffic I started to smell hot metal coming through my heater vents. Have you ever welded before? It smelled exactly like that. The temp gauge was pretty solid in the middle of the range so I don't think it's internal to the motor. I was going to take the car down this weekend and clean out the EGR channel in the intake but I was wondering if anyone had an idea of what to check first. Anything at risk I should look into first that can be running hot? I changed the timing belt at 75K, should I check the tensioner to make sure I didn't botch the install?
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Nov 1, 2011 15:09
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Any idea what an NA (1.6) goes for in the market nowadays? I can wait til the spring to sell, but if I go to buy this turbo NA I should really know how much I will likely get for mine. So... any guesses? 1992 Sunkist Yellow with OE hardtop with defrost, etc FM Stage 1.5 Suspension & Poly Bushings, new ball joints, etc Dunlop Star Specs Soft top isn't perfect but doesn't leak unless it's really bad Nice sound setup with amp and component speakers Mechanically Perfect 89k miles Left rear quarter panel has a dent and right side paint is peeling (clearcoat from obviously being repainted). I also have a Torsen setup for it but it's in my garage uninstalled. Figure I can get $2k for the car at least and $500 for the top and $500 for the LSD? Blaise fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Nov 1, 2011 |
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Nov 1, 2011 16:21
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$7000 prime condition hardtop included!!!
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Nov 1, 2011 16:55
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Phone posted:$7000 prime condition hardtop included!!! Ha. Sure.... Really though, any chance this thing could pull more than $3k with top and LSD?
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Nov 1, 2011 16:58
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You could probably get close to 4k without an issue.
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Nov 1, 2011 17:04
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You can probably get 5k for a Sunkist yellow with an OEM hardtop with only 89k miles. You could also sell the torsen separately online and get at least $400 because people pay a pretty penny for those.
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Nov 1, 2011 17:14
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Brain Issues posted:You can probably get 5k for a Sunkist yellow with an OEM hardtop with only 89k miles. You could also sell the torsen separately online and get at least $400 because people pay a pretty penny for those. Really? I'll take some better pics but I'd be shocked if I got that. I know sunkist is a sought-after color but this thing has hail damage, a big dent in the quarter panel (see below) and the right side door and rear quarter have been repainted and are peeling. The entire front was also repainted and was perfect until the hail. 
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Nov 1, 2011 17:36
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Blaise posted:Really? I'll take some better pics but I'd be shocked if I got that. I know sunkist is a sought-after color but this thing has hail damage, a big dent in the quarter panel (see below) and the right side door and rear quarter have been repainted and are peeling. The entire front was also repainted and was perfect until the hail. Oh drat, I didn't know the left quarter panel "dent" was so large. That's some pretty serious body damage. You can probably still get ~3-4k with the hardtop though if you find the right buyer.
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Nov 1, 2011 17:38
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TrueChaos posted:Anyone have experience with Sparco Sprint V's? I'm looking at installing the hardtop hard dog bar + harness bar over the winter in my '99, and am trying to figure out what seats to look at. I need probably 2" lower than stock seats to pass the broomstick test, and I'm relatively comfortable making my own mounting brackets, but if there's an easier way I'd love to know. I'll be getting a 6point - I might have a shop do the install for this, but we'll see. Plans for next summer include as many tackdays and autox as I can afford. I've got them in my car with the hardcore hard top bar in my 94. Driver's is bolted to the floor, passenger is on sliders. There's a good 2" difference in height probably. They're not super comfortable, but they are pretty cheap. I think I got both new for around $550 shipped. Any other questions you have? There's some guy who posted a few pics of his install on cardomain that I found on miata.net that you could look at. Brackets are pretty simple though, and the passenger seat bolts to the stock slider if you drill a couple holes in the bracket.
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Nov 1, 2011 21:50
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Blaise posted:Wouldn't this be something worth the investment of getting PDRed?
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Nov 1, 2011 22:04
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kimbo305 posted:Wouldn't this be something worth the investment of getting PDRed? Can't PDR it, paint is broken and metal is creased. You can pull it but not via just PDR.
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Nov 1, 2011 22:23
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Blaise posted:
If you still have it in the spring I may be interested in the Torsen. I want to put one in my 96 but woun't have any money for nonessential car stuff until after the new year.
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Nov 1, 2011 22:27
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DreamOn13 posted:I've got them in my car with the hardcore hard top bar in my 94. Driver's is bolted to the floor, passenger is on sliders. There's a good 2" difference in height probably. They're not super comfortable, but they are pretty cheap. I think I got both new for around $550 shipped. Any other questions you have? There's some guy who posted a few pics of his install on cardomain that I found on miata.net that you could look at. Brackets are pretty simple though, and the passenger seat bolts to the stock slider if you drill a couple holes in the bracket. How tall are you and do you pass the broomstick test? Also I think you can side mount the sprint V now, at least it says so on the sparco website.
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Nov 1, 2011 22:28
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Since it's gotten cold, my transmission has started making an awful screeching noise when I have the clutch engaged switching to first and second. It's the throwout bearing, as far as I know, which means new clutch time. Any advice as to what to buy from where? I'm thinking this Clutch kit from Rosenthal Mazda since it's only $125 after shipping, and to get a kit from Advance Auto would cost $100 more.
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Nov 2, 2011 02:55
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So I went on a little road trip from Melbourne to Brisbane last week (2300km / 1500 miles) Unfortunately, in my quest to find interesting backroads along the way, I ended up on a logging track used only by huge semi-trailers. Victoria had a lot of rain the previous week and washed a lot of the roads away (I had no idea this happened) so there were a lot of gravel roads that consisted of only sharp rocks. It was fine until I came across the first bit of mud. I got through it, but it was deeper than the ride height of my car. Fortunately I mashed the Loud pedal quickly enough to get enough momentum to make it through. It was at this point I realised how stupid I am. Here I was, at least 2 hours drive from the nearest paved road, in my stupid little sports car, trying to cross terrain only used by heavy vehicles, at the start of a weekend. (I wouldn't see another car or house for 80km) and mobile reception had disappeared about an hour ago. I prayed there would be no more mud. There was more. Much more. I spent most of my time going sideways through it and trying not to slip off the edge of the road or into the cliff face on the other side. This went on for another 3 hours and about 80 km. Gravel gravel gravel, holy poo poo mud, grave gravel, gently caress more mud, gravel gravel etc. Through absolute sheer luck I made it through. All the stretches of mud (some up to 25m long) were uphill. Had they been down-hill, I would have easily slid off the embankment and become terribly inconvenienced. You may be wondering why I didn't just turn around at the first sign of trouble. The reason is, I am quite stupid. When I saw the next patch of paved road I was elated. I celebrated by having a bit of fun on the twisties between Armidale and Coffs Harbour. Anyway, here are some pics of my wonderful little car that did things it was never designed to do. Unfortunately it rained the past few days so most of the mud has been washed off, but the entire underside was covered and dripping. You can see in the last pic how high it was.   
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Nov 2, 2011 02:58
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TrueChaos posted:How tall are you and do you pass the broomstick test? Also I think you can side mount the sprint V now, at least it says so on the sparco website. 6' 3/4" (I feel like an 8 year old with the 3/4" but alas) and have a 34" waist and inseam. I fit in the seats just fine, and just barely pass the broomstick test with my helmet on. (HJC AR-10) If I sat up in the seats, then I probably wouldn't. I don't naturally though since they're VERY upright seats. I couldn't get much lean on them though since the shoulder wing hits the rollbar so I basically just mounted them as far back as I could against the firewall. And yes, mine are the newer ones with the side mounts, but I just used the bottom mounts.
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Nov 2, 2011 11:53
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So, I've been really busy working, while also applying to grad school, while also bolstering my portfolio frantically at night - so I haven't had a chance to take a look at this, but: I think I've got a problem. When I start it up in the morning, it runs a bit rough and makes a rather loud, metallic "pfff" noise in time with the engine, what sounds like a single cylinder. So much so that if you hear it just right, it sounds like a goddamned radial engine idling. When it's warmed up, the angry "pfff" sound seems to resign itself to a 'put put put put". What little power it had when I got it doesn't seem too effected, however it does get really thrashy and white-noise-y from about 3k to 5k under load. The noise vs acceleration during this part is favoring the former by a longshot. So, the nature of the sound immediately makes me think of exhaust, but the 'put put put put' in time with what is obviously a cylinder makes me worried. Does this sound like something going awry with the valves? Or something as simple as an exhaust leak? Also, the car has 265,000 miles on it, so she's gettin' old.
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Nov 3, 2011 02:26
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I'm hearing a "clunk" from the front left wheel when I turn (usually only when it's below 50 outside). It seems like a ball joint might be the culprit so I jacked that side of the car up and shook the wheel to feel for play. So, I'm thinking it's likely the lower ball joint. Ideas?
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Nov 3, 2011 10:24
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ursa: Clogged cat? Loose spark plug?
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Nov 4, 2011 04:13
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