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AtomicBomber posted:Speaking of quality control, Ford has released a response to the MT82 investigation. What the gently caress does this even mean? What do narrow gates have to do with anything? My GT is notchy going 2->3 when it's cold and sometimes on hard shifts it'll grind a little. It's got 8k miles. It's not un-liveable so I don't complain but drat.
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Nov 10, 2011 04:14
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kronix posted:What the gently caress does this even mean? What do narrow gates have to do with anything? But drat what? It the gently caress means that some-not all- people are missing shifts or perceiving that they are getting locked out of gears because they dont know how to shift this particular transmission properly. They are hitting in between gates and think they are getting locked out of gear. As I said, I thought mine was notchy till I learned to shift more passively instead of trying to force the transmission to go where I thought 3rd should be. I was probably trying to jam the shifter between 3rd and 5th. I nudge it and let the guidesprings handle dropping the shifter into the gate, and since then no problem. Sorry if your experience was different, but it probably explains quite a few of the complaints going on. PS - I have had 2 cars before this with 5 speeds, one of them a fox 5.0, and neither of the shifters was anything like this one. AtomicBomber fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Nov 10, 2011 |
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Nov 10, 2011 05:05
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AtomicBomber posted:Pretty much my personal experience with the MT82 as well... once I got used to the close gates, everything was smoooooth.
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Nov 10, 2011 06:34
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AtomicBomber posted:But drat what? FWIW, I don't quite agree with the statement that the problems with the transmission are all due to driver error. However, I do agree that the skip-shift is a problem that causes two specific problems -- missed shifts and block outs. Though, I've got the Ford racing tune which disables the skip-shift and have still experienced random problems over the 15K miles I've got on my 2011 GT. I've had some occasional grinding between gears (usually 1st-2nd at /high/ RPM. My previous cars include the AP2 S2000, RX8 and E46 (ZHP -- 6 speed). Is it driver error when the transmission grinds with the clutch fully depressed? The shifter in the 5.0 feels quite a bit like the shifter in the S2000. This is not a bad thing. The gates are so close together that you can't really hit in-between a gate, yet I've never mis-shifted (that wasn't caused by the skip-shift). If there is a problem with the transmission, it is due to the quality of the syncros within the transmission. Blaming it on the driver is a cop-out.
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Nov 10, 2011 06:44
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"It's driver error" "It's by design" -Every warranty department ever
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Nov 10, 2011 07:08
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Not that I've owned many cars, but this car (2011 V6/Pony) is super-sensitive about tire pressure. If the rears drop to 31 psi, it has a really hard time hooking up. The front end gets all sloppy at that pressure, too. It caught me off-guard, because my e30 doesn't behave this way at all. Then again, it's not putting down the same power. Well, it caught my wife off-guard and she ended up countersteering onto the shoulder. I always prefer my cars higher than stock by a few PSI, but I feel this car practically needs it to compensate for any potential drop. That said, it accelerates and handles pretty awesomely at 34 psi.
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Nov 10, 2011 16:26
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optikalus posted:The shifter in the 5.0 feels quite a bit like the shifter in the S2000. This is not a bad thing. The gates are so close together that you can't really hit in-between a gate, yet I've never mis-shifted (that wasn't caused by the skip-shift). If there is a problem with the transmission, it is due to the quality of the syncros within the transmission. Blaming it on the driver is a cop-out. You sure can hit between gates -- I do it reasonably frequently when I'm being a lazy rear end in a top hat on 4->5 and I don't push the stick over enough. I've never really had a problem with the transmission that wasn't my own fault -- like not selecting R or 2 fully enough and dealing with a horrible, horrible grinding as I release the clutch. I promise I'm sorry!
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Nov 10, 2011 16:31
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Maybe someone here has some insight into what's going on with my car. '01 Bullitt The car will seemingly randomly start making a very loud hum, the RPM's will go up about 1k and it will hold this for awhile. If I'm in neutral when this happens the RPM's will start to drop to nearly a stall and go back up rapidly (it actually stalled at a stop yesterday) until I rev pretty high, then it stops completely. I just brought it into a shop and they claimed they couldn't get it to happen enough to diagnose it. Anyone have a clue?
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Nov 10, 2011 21:20
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Dinurth posted:Maybe someone here has some insight into what's going on with my car. '01 Bullitt Forgive any ignorance on the topic but it sounds like you could benefit from checking out and making sure your sensors are okay. Mainly your Idle Air Control Valve which could be doing this. Frozenphil or someone else will probably nail this first try but that's where I would look.
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Nov 10, 2011 21:56
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VibrioCholera posted:Frozenphil or someone else will probably nail this first try but that's where I would look. Pffft, I don't know poo poo. Go get your alternator checked. It sounds stupid, but I bet that's the problem.
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Nov 11, 2011 00:56
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frozenphil posted:Pffft, I don't know poo poo. It doesn't sound stupid at all, I had a car that would upshift but not downshift when the alternator went. Car started and ran like a top except for the not downshifting part. I figured out I could force it back into first by throwing it into neutral at a light. So I drove it slowly avoiding slowing down like the plague until I got to my friends shop. Mechanic told me I'd need to leave the car there so he could look at it over the weekend. Being 18 with no car on a weekend sucks so that wasn't going to work. Brought the car home, talked to dad, checked it out and figured out the voltages weren't what they should be. One trip to autozone and a rebuilt alternator and 20 minutes to pop a new one in and I was back in business. Lesson: Electrical problems can cause all sorts of bullshit
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Nov 11, 2011 01:33
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frozenphil posted:Pffft, I don't know poo poo. I replaced it 2 years ago myself... but that would be in line with my experience with Mustangs over the years. I've owned 3 Mustangs and replaced probably a dozen alternators. Wtf is up with that?
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Nov 11, 2011 02:01
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Dinurth posted:I replaced it 2 years ago myself... but that would be in line with my experience with Mustangs over the years. I've owned 3 Mustangs and replaced probably a dozen alternators. Wtf is up with that? Every car company has something they suck at. VW sucks at electrical systems, Dodge sucks at transmissions, and Ford sucks at alternators.
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Nov 11, 2011 02:21
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Except for the 80s, when everyone sucked at everything.
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Nov 11, 2011 02:33
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I didn't have a chance to get the alt tested this morning before I had to get my rear end to work. But the tech said to me "We don't want to mess with it because of all the aftermarket parts, take it to Ford". Thanks guy. One thing I noticed when it's humming and the idle is high, it smells like the car is running rich, but only during that time.
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Nov 11, 2011 17:34
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I put the car back up at the shop. The car is going to a 3.55 gear on top of a new tune. The supercharger tubing is getting totally redone to fix the idle issues. After talking it over the car won't run higher than a 28-28.5" tire without tubbing it and that's just really expensive. So a 3.73 was agreed on but a new option came up that made a lower gear work. It's also getting faster. In passing we were talking and he mentioned nitrous. We mentioned I had a nitrous kit just laying in the basement. He said, "why not use it?" So I am. It's being installed to the trans brake so it will launch off at least a 150 shot of nitrous. All the safety measures are being installed. The car will be well into the low nines or high eights by next year. I guess launching off nitrous is a huge boost. This hobby is stupid expensive but well worth it.
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Nov 11, 2011 23:25
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Thanks assholes.  After spending 5 hours detailing my car today, I only notice the orange peel. How easy is wet sanding and how easy is it to ruin my paint? Is there a good guide for it?
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Nov 12, 2011 22:59
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BDawg posted:Thanks assholes. Look up the junkman on YouTube. He mentions getting a depth gauge, but the clear coat on a mustang is pretty drat thick. Try out wetsanding on a very VERY secluded area on your car first. I would start with 2500grit just like the YouTube videos.
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Nov 13, 2011 06:35
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What exactly causes 'orange peel' anyway?
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Nov 13, 2011 13:42
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Dick Burglar posted:What exactly causes 'orange peel' anyway? Basically, painting a car. It's a pain to get the spray completely even, and "orange peel" is how that's described. You do a wet sand step to even the paint out. Hey, here's some Wikipedia information! "Gloss paint sprayed on a smooth surface (such as the body of a car) should also dry into a smooth surface. However, various factors can cause it to dry into a bumpy surface resembling the texture of an orange peel. The orange peel phenomenon can then be smoothed out with ultra-fine sandpaper, but it can be prevented altogether by changing the painting technique or the materials used. Orange peel is typically the result of improper painting technique, and is caused by the quick evaporation of thinner, incorrect spray gun setup (e.g., low air pressure or incorrect nozzle), spraying the paint at an angle other than perpendicular, or applying excessive paint."
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Nov 13, 2011 20:50
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BDawg posted:Thanks assholes. YouTube is probably the best DIY guide. Be warned it's really time intensive and you are prone to screwing up. Use painter's tape and mask all edges and sharp corners. If you make it through wet sanding the DA polisher is nearly fool proof so it's easy sailing from there. Also, you'll need a select speed speed rotary such as the Dewalt or at minimum a dual action polisher such as a Porter Cable 7424XP. Now you need to buy pricey compounds, the best and easiest ones to work with are Meguiar's 105/205 combo. With a couple different pads you can do most of the car in a couple days or just hit the really bad spots if you wanted to I guess.
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Nov 14, 2011 13:57
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VibrioCholera posted:YouTube is probably the best DIY guide. Be warned it's really time intensive and you are prone to screwing up. Use painter's tape and mask all edges and sharp corners. If you make it through wet sanding the DA polisher is nearly fool proof so it's easy sailing from there. I have a Power Cable and various 3M cutting and polish compounds. I suppose these alone aren't agressive enough to get rid of orange peel, huh? The thought of sanding my car just terrifies me.
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Nov 14, 2011 19:39
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There are body shops out there that would be more then willing to ruin your car for you. I have used compounds that break down as you use them so that you work to a finer grit. This was for polishing lacquer which is much softer than clear coat though. You can always rattle can it with flat black in end and use it as a chalk board if all else fails.
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Nov 14, 2011 21:03
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Official info on the 2013 GT500 is out! 650hp Hooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooly poo poo!
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Nov 15, 2011 06:44
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mod sassinator posted:Official info on the 2013 GT500 is out! that's impressive.
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Nov 15, 2011 06:52
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While I love the new engine specs and will probably need to upgrade mine next year as a result, I am definitely not a fan of the new rear end. That horizontal body line that runs above the exhaust/fascia gives it a boat hull like look. 2013 Rear:  2012 Rear: 
OrganizedEntropy fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 07:02
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I like how that shot obscures how much rubber it's packing. Not that the GT500 needs to be a track car, but it'll need some major rubber to go Z06 or ZR1 Corvette hunting, right?
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Nov 15, 2011 07:05
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kimbo305 posted:I like how that shot obscures how much rubber it's packing. Not that the GT500 needs to be a track car, but it'll need some major rubber to go Z06 or ZR1 Corvette hunting, right? Based on my experiences with my 2012, 285's on the rear are a joke with 3.73's and only 510 lb ft. The car spins the tires (in 2nd AND 3rd) if you look at it wrong. I hope to god they went bigger. OrganizedEntropy fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 07:07
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Wow I hope they put wider rubber on the rear too. The Camaro ZL1 will have 305 width tires in the rear I think. Also apparently the 2013 GT will have 420hp stock--nice little bump in power. With so much horsepower coming from pony cars I have to wonder if the standard and Z06 Corvette are too weak these days.
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Nov 15, 2011 07:22
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I can't see any reason for them to go with a tire smaller than a 335. There are enough cars out there that run larger tires than that stock. The selection and price of tires that size isn't too bad, all things considered. Tire Rack has 345/30/19s starting at $379 a tire with Michelin Pilot Sports coming in at under $500/tire. Those prices aren't far off from the 255/285s on the current Shelby, so I don't see cost being the issue.
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Nov 15, 2011 07:24
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oRenj9 posted:I can't see any reason for them to go with a tire smaller than a 335. There are enough cars out there that run larger tires than that stock. The selection and price of tires that size isn't too bad, all things considered. Tire Rack has 345/30/19s starting at $379 a tire with Michelin Pilot Sports coming in at under $500/tire. For the current body, it's simply a size issue. I believe the biggest that guys have been able to fit on the S197 Mustangs without it getting iffy is a 305 - 315. Has anyone seen anything larger? I've seen 335's but there were significant modifications in the rear to get them to clear without sticking out and rubbing on the fenders. The other thing that bothers me is that the rocker panels are now painted to match the car. Being in Canada, I love the fact that my rocker panels and rear fascia are black plastic as it's very resilient to rocks. Those goodyears kick up a TON of rocks in the front and the itsy mud flaps aren't wide enough to protect the paint. OrganizedEntropy fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 07:27
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OrganizedEntropy posted:While I love the new engine specs and will probably need to upgrade mine next year as a result, I am definitely not a fan of the new rear end. That horizontal body line that runs above the exhaust/fascia gives it a boat hull like look. I personally like the new line myself. I think it was added to give the illusion of a wider, less tall/blocky rear end. Although I may just be crazy. Also, this is just a pumped up mod-motor? I was kind of hoping for some crazy rear end bored or stroked Coyote with twin turbos and direct injection. Also, in regards to the V6 and GT stangs: I much prefer the current front end to the updated one.  
Mental Hospitality fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 10:50
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I'm liking the quad pipes out back on the '13 Shelby. I will also probably order that front splitter once it becomes available through the dealers.
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Nov 15, 2011 14:42
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Well the GT500 uses Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar rubber. The widest I'm seeing on tire rack are 315s at R19 or 255s at R20. Which is weird since they are using R20s in the rear and I don't see them going with 255s..
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Nov 15, 2011 14:58
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shodanjr_gr posted:Well the GT500 uses Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar rubber. The widest I'm seeing on tire rack are 315s at R19 or 255s at R20. Which is weird since they are using R20s in the rear and I don't see them going with 255s.. Another shot of the rear but the tires look pretty much the same with the exception of the Trans Am snowflake wheels. 
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Nov 15, 2011 15:24
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It seems pointless to add 100 hp when you can already smoke the tires at the drop of a hat. Are people going to be getting these and throwing on the biggest drag radials and going to the strip?
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Nov 15, 2011 16:09
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SouthLAnd posted:I personally like the new line myself. I think it was added to give the illusion of a wider, less tall/blocky rear end. Although I may just be crazy. Also, this is just a pumped up mod-motor? I was kind of hoping for some crazy rear end bored or stroked Coyote with twin turbos and direct injection. Agreed but we've known about the 5.8 for a while. I love the rear lights but I hate the new front. The new fog lamps just look so tiny. Also the body colored lower trim around the car just makes the car look fat. It works on the GT500 but I'm not sure how I'm feeling about the GT.
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Nov 15, 2011 16:10
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I was really hoping for the twin turbo setup, but I kinda figured they'd stick with the supercharger since they have so much R&D invested in it.
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Nov 15, 2011 17:15
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kimbo305 posted:It seems pointless to add 100 hp when you can already smoke the tires at the drop of a hat. Are people going to be getting these and throwing on the biggest drag radials and going to the strip? I'm holding out hope the tires have gotten much wider, at least in the rear.
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Nov 15, 2011 20:42
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I've got a tiny bit of damage on the bumper of my 2010 V6. I was going to look into grabbing a Saleen rear fascia, but holy poo poo the 2013 GT500 has a beautiful rear (especially with the new lights). Now I figure I'll just have to wait a bit and graft it onto my Mustang (minus all the Shelby logos, not trying to fool anyone  ).
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Nov 15, 2011 20:51
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