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So I'm going to sound crazy here, but anyone ever heard of cinammon-smelling two stroke oil? Was in and out, forward and back with this RS125 on my commute this evening and could swear that there was a cinnamony smell behind him. Asked him about it, and he hadn't a clue. 
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Nov 16, 2011 00:01
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| # ? May 16, 2024 00:21 |
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_Dav posted:So I'm going to sound crazy here, but anyone ever heard of cinammon-smelling two stroke oil? Was in and out, forward and back with this RS125 on my commute this evening and could swear that there was a cinnamony smell behind him. Asked him about it, and he hadn't a clue. Never heard of cinnamon, but this exists http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Putoline-...278272753208342
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Nov 16, 2011 00:21
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Olde Weird Tip posted:I dont think the 916 or any Ducati is a straight up bad bike. 
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Nov 16, 2011 00:24
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Z3n posted:Yeah thats terrible
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Nov 16, 2011 00:25
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A distinct cinnamon-y smell? Did his riding gear look kind of funny? 
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Nov 16, 2011 01:31
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Z3n posted:I want this bike so bad. Just so I can go annoy all the Ducati guys that like to pose up around here.
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Nov 16, 2011 02:15
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pr0zac posted:I want this bike so bad. Just so I can go annoy all the Ducati guys that like to pose up around here. That is the best use of the Ducati Indiana for sure. Oh and if you're not taken, offering to pick up girls on your "Ducati". 
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Nov 16, 2011 02:36
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the walkin dude posted:the Ninja does have a small valve head leak. I've kept my eye on the oil level and it hasn't gone downward since. :O Sweet would be coolant, no?
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Nov 16, 2011 03:27
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Thanks for the opinions guys! The dealership he's buying the HP2 from valued the Ducati at 50 % more than the GSXR, which in my opinion is laughable. So I'm keeping the GSXR. (Tradein prices are in local moon currency, so no values stated here) I still think the HP2 is great, but I also like the Monster S2R, so take that for what it's worth. I don't automatically think "European = great", if I did I wouldn't be riding a GSXR now 
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Nov 16, 2011 08:44
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Z3n posted:
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Nov 16, 2011 13:12
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Mathturbator posted:Thanks for the opinions guys! That's some insane badge valuation there. Ahh well, such it is.
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Nov 16, 2011 19:52
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Some winterizing questions as the days where I may be riding are fewer and fewer. I can only find guides for outdoor storage. I would like some clarification. My bike will be directly in front of my car in a garage. Like less than a foot away from the front bumper. My car will be driven almost daily. My Dad theorizes that the cars coming and going during the winter should help warm up the bike every day a little bit. The garage is attached to the house and has a room above half of the roof, so it doesn't dip that far below 0C that often. About changing the oil - I've only done around a thousand kilometres (600miles) on my current oil. Should I really change it for the winter? I plan on leaving the bike on it's center stand and wedging some wood under the frame to keep both tires off the concrete. The center stand will be on a layer or two of cardboard to also keep it off the concrete. (Some site said that is a good thing for some reason) The tank will be full (how full really?) of fuel and stabilizer will be put in. My bike has a vacuum petcock, should I do anything to the carbs? Again, the bike will be stored in a garage and away from super frigid temps and nasty weather. So I'm wondering what winterizing is absolutely necessary. There will probably be opportunities to start it and run it every once and a while. (If that is even a good idea)
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Nov 16, 2011 21:20
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I know a lot of people will advocate emptying the fuel tank, but I prefer to fill it up all the way and put some stabilizer or seafoam in. A full tank doesn't rust. I can also say good things about fogging sprays, both inside the cylinder and carbs to prevent corrosion and dry starts, and outside on chrome pieces for the same reason.
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Nov 16, 2011 21:50
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Ziploc posted:About changing the oil - I've only done around a thousand kilometres (600miles) on my current oil. Should I really change it for the winter? I'd change it, its cheap, and guarantees fresh oil for the spring. Ziploc posted:I plan on leaving the bike on it's center stand and wedging some wood under the frame to keep both tires off the concrete. The center stand will be on a layer or two of cardboard to also keep it off the concrete. (Some site said that is a good thing for some reason) If you can keep the tires off the concrete thats a good thing, just to keep them from flat spotting. The cardboard? Meh, if it makes you feel better go for it. Ziploc posted:The tank will be full (how full really?) of fuel and stabilizer will be put in. Full. To the brim. As much as you can get in without making a mess. You want as close to zero oxygen in the tank as possible to prevent rust. Ziploc posted:My bike has a vacuum petcock, should I do anything to the carbs? Since you're storing it outside, I'd run the bike with stabil in it until you can be reasonably sure the stabil is in the carbs, then park it with full carbs. Aluminum can oxidize as well as the brass jets. Keeping gas in there helps aleviate this. Ziploc posted:Again, the bike will be stored in a garage and away from super frigid temps and nasty weather. So I'm wondering what winterizing is absolutely necessary. There will probably be opportunities to start it and run it every once and a while. (If that is even a good idea) I'd put it on stands, change the oil, put stabil in the tank, top it off, and leave it. If you can put the battery inside on a charger, all the better. Starting it periodically wont do much except force the cams to move while they're dry and the oil is as thick as maple syrup.
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Nov 16, 2011 21:58
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Empty tank doesn't make any sense to me? It's just asking for rust..
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Nov 16, 2011 22:29
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The only time I can think of where a full tank might be a bad idea is if you've got a plastic-tank Duc or Triumph or something and you can only get ethanol gas, and maybe not even then
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Nov 17, 2011 02:14
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Is there a quick way to check to see if I'm running too rich a fuel mixture, or are spark plugs the only way? Also, how would I dial it down if I am running too rich? Is it a simple twist of a dial/lever or is it a big process that will take up the majority of a day?
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Nov 17, 2011 03:22
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Ziploc posted:Some winterizing questions as the days where I may be riding are fewer and fewer. Before I park them, I take them out for a decent ride, at least long enough to warm up fully. Fill it to the brim with gas, park. That's it. I'll also periodically throw the tender on when I remember to. Periodically I'll fire it up and let it get to warming temp in the garage during the winter but that's a maybe. Never had an issue with gas going bad or varnishing in the carbs, although I did put a bit of Stabil in this year just to try. Personally, I think the gas is pretty good nowdays at least where I live so it's a pretty minor risk. For the amount of miles I ride, I typically change my oil once maybe twice a year and it's first thing in the spring. I don't bother in the fall unless it looks really dirty.
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Nov 17, 2011 05:13
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I'm an idiot, but what's the name of that website that has all the motorbike proportions with the adjustable little man to show you how big or small they are? Motorcycle Proportions? Motorcycle Ballistics? Motorcycle Dimensions? I knew I should have bookmarked it.
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Nov 17, 2011 07:30
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Cycle ergo
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Nov 17, 2011 07:32
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This isn't strictly about motorcycles. I dropped off my new-to-me EX250 at a dealership service department (bad move, I know) last Saturday. The service manager said he'd give me a call later in this week. I called him today and he said it "should be done within the upcoming week." Well, I'm giving him until Friday. Do I have the right to just show up with a pickup and my ramp and tow the thing off, after getting back the keys? I signed a work order for a tune up and carb cleaning, but didn't pay any money. I fear that he will try to charge me a storage fee or do something more drastic (like gently caress up my bike)... from my experience and the accounts of reviews I read (after I dropped the bike off), he seems like a total sociopath. What would you do? 
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Nov 18, 2011 23:35
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Give him some time to make it right. If he doesn't sort it out within that amount of time, then see about reclaiming your bike.
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Nov 18, 2011 23:40
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Bondematt posted:If you bog it it can cause accelerated plug fouling. If it feels snappy and responsive you should be fine. I can't think of any scenario when this would hurt anything other than the spark plugs. Big narrow v-twins with an oversquare stroke ratio tend to beat up rod bearings and can suffer premature piston ring wear in addition to burning out the plugs if they're lugged too aggressively. I've also been told some bikes that are intended to run at higher revs will get lowish oil pressure at low revs but I have no idea how much truth that carries, something about under-driven oil pumps?
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Nov 18, 2011 23:43
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Z3n posted:It's like somebody turned a CX500 engine sideways!
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Nov 18, 2011 23:46
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clutchpuck posted:Big narrow v-twins with an oversquare stroke ratio tend to beat up rod bearings and can suffer premature piston ring wear in addition to burning out the plugs if they're lugged too aggressively. Modern R6es have that problem at low RPM under heavy load when the oil is cold. This is why all the good bike builders, especially if they're decking heads and getting the engine close to the limits of performance, demand long warm up times with them, ie. cases hot to get the oil hot, not just good coolant temperature.
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Nov 19, 2011 00:21
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Z3n posted:Modern R6es have that problem at low RPM under heavy load when the oil is cold. This is why all the good bike builders, especially if they're decking heads and getting the engine close to the limits of performance, demand long warm up times with them, ie. cases hot to get the oil hot, not just good coolant temperature. I've also heard R6's mentioned as an example of a bike that can get oil starved during extended wheelies because strangely Yamaha did not build the oil sump with extended excursions at >45 degrees from horizontal in mind, but I don't know how much of that is truth vice urban legend
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Nov 19, 2011 02:03
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Snowdens Secret posted:I've also heard R6's mentioned as an example of a bike that can get oil starved during extended wheelies because strangely Yamaha did not build the oil sump with extended excursions at >45 degrees from horizontal in mind, but I don't know how much of that is truth vice urban legend I've always wanted to slap a oil pressure gauge on the oil pressure port on a modern bike and see how they really respond to wheelies. I have heard from a trusted engine builder that if you rev the poo poo out of an R6 from cold it can actually make piston to valve contact on a built engine because the tolerances get so loving close. Wouldn't surprise me. There's that same rumor about SV650s, I don't have a working oil pressure light on mine at the moment so I'm not about to go pulling long wheelies to figure out what the situation is.
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Nov 19, 2011 02:39
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Z3n posted:I've always wanted to slap a oil pressure gauge on the oil pressure port on a modern bike and see how they really respond to wheelies. I have heard from a trusted engine builder that if you rev the poo poo out of an R6 from cold it can actually make piston to valve contact on a built engine because the tolerances get so loving close. Wouldn't surprise me.  For actual valve/piston head contact, wouldn't the con rods and valves actually grow when they're hot though? You'd think cold would give you the most clearance.
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Nov 19, 2011 04:28
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I'm thinking piston/head contact would be from valve float, nothing else.
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Nov 19, 2011 08:54
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slidebite posted:
Valves wouldn't matter much here. The thermal expansion of the valve heads will be ridiculously low within operating temperatures, providing we talk clearance to the piston and not valve seat clearance. The thermal expansion of the connecting rods/piston rods is neglectable while soaked in oil. It's pretty much bullshit. Valve head to seat clearance on a cold vs warm bike matters. It's all about materials. In most cases you'll tighten tolerances on a warm vs cold engine, but this isn't always correct. There is at least 4 players here. Piston to rod contact on a freshly build R6 engine would concern me, if it was actually true. It's absolutely true that you can snap off a valve head reving a cold R6, though. That might be it? That aside, no 4-stroke engine is made to maintain a steady 60 degree angle to the ground. Wheelies are helping your soul, not your bike, and oil starvation is real. If you really need this, build a 2-stroke with SRIS and prepare to open the engine for shift-fork changes at least a couple of times per decade. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 09:21 on Nov 19, 2011 |
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Nov 19, 2011 09:13
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Geirskogul posted:I'm thinking piston/head contact would be from valve float, nothing else. I could see that potentially.
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Nov 19, 2011 18:50
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My commute includes an interstate off-ramp with metal joints between the concrete slabs from which it's made. When it rains, these can get ridiculously slick, but are really no problem as long as I approach them head-on. The problem is that there's one which, in addition to being in the middle of the curve for the ramp where my bike has to be in a lean, is angled at such a way that you hit it at a near-parallel angle. Even if I go all the way to the outside, and sharply curve in at the last minute, I can't even manage more than a 30-45 degree angle, so there's no way to come close to hitting it head-on. I haven't ever had a really close call, but every drat rainy evening I when I roll over that thing, my back slides out. I'm worried that one day I'll be leaned over a little too much, or my tire will have a touch of oil on it or something, and I'll just lose it completely. And of course this off-ramp is suspended in the air over a nice concrete drainage ditch about 50 feet down with not much guard rail. What's the best way to handle this? I'm usually steady on the throttle since I'm in a turn, but it seems like maybe if I stood up the bike and held the clutch in when I hit it, the rear wouldn't be as likely to spin out? I'm nervous to try it though, since that pretty much goes against everything I've learned for keeping a bike rubber-side-down in any other circumstance.
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Nov 23, 2011 18:57
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SlightlyMadman posted:My commute includes an interstate off-ramp with metal joints between the concrete slabs from which it's made. When it rains, these can get ridiculously slick, but are really no problem as long as I approach them head-on. The problem is that there's one which, in addition to being in the middle of the curve for the ramp where my bike has to be in a lean, is angled at such a way that you hit it at a near-parallel angle. Even if I go all the way to the outside, and sharply curve in at the last minute, I can't even manage more than a 30-45 degree angle, so there's no way to come close to hitting it head-on. Well from what I remember from Twist of the wrist: 0. Speed - If it feels like you're on the edge slow down. Better to take it slowly than crash. 1. Throttle control. You should be rolling on the throttle during the turn, though I think in this kind of circumstance you are OK to hold it steady rather than rolling on. When you roll on/off the throttle you gently caress with the weight distribution which changes the available traction back and front. You want to keep the throttle on to keep the weight even. Keith Code goes into this in some detail and in his video you can see how they did various tests. 2. Move over on the bike to the inside of the turn. By putting your body weight to the inside, you lean the bike less which will help with the traction. You can move to edge of the seat or just try leaning your upper body if you don't do that already. Don't lean to the outside of the turn in an attempt to keep your body upright, lean to the inside to keep the bike upright if that makes sense edit - 3. When you approach the metal bit gun the poo poo out of it and power slide through the turn like a boss edit 2- dont do this I would suggest see if you can find the clip (or watch the whole thing) Keith Code has in his video on youtube - he has a bike with stabilizers (so that the rider can't drop it) which he runs through gravel/water etc and experiments with what works well and what doesn't. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Nov 23, 2011 |
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Nov 23, 2011 19:26
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SlightlyMadman posted:My commute includes an interstate off-ramp with metal joints between the concrete slabs from which it's made. When it rains, these can get ridiculously slick, but are really no problem as long as I approach them head-on. The problem is that there's one which, in addition to being in the middle of the curve for the ramp where my bike has to be in a lean, is angled at such a way that you hit it at a near-parallel angle. Even if I go all the way to the outside, and sharply curve in at the last minute, I can't even manage more than a 30-45 degree angle, so there's no way to come close to hitting it head-on. Ganjamon's advice is good...I'd probably hold it on steady throttle, get my body to the inside to get the bike as upright as possible, and swerve like you mention to hit it as upright as possible and let it slide a bit. The problem with pulling the clutch in is that you're going to transfer weight forward, putting more load on the front. What's happening right now is you're using the rear wheel to minimize the load on the front, so when you hit it with the rear wheel, it's spinning. If you clutch in, you're going to move the weight distribution forward. There might be enough traction in the front to avoid it sliding or you might start pushing the front when you hit it. I'd rather spin the rear a bit than push the front.
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Nov 23, 2011 19:36
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Yep, I've read all the books and know the theory. Works great in every single situation I've ever been in, except that one drat metal joint on the off-ramp, which I for some reason slip on every single time.Z3n posted:Ganjamon's advice is good...I'd probably hold it on steady throttle, get my body to the inside to get the bike as upright as possible, and swerve like you mention to hit it as upright as possible and let it slide a bit. Hm, yeah maybe my problem is that I'm feeling the back wheel slie a bit and assuming that means I'm doing something wrong. It sounds like you're saying that's not necessarily a problem, as long as I'm doing things right to keep the bike stable? SlightlyMadman fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Nov 23, 2011 |
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Nov 23, 2011 19:38
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SlightlyMadman posted:Yep, I've read all the books and know the theory. Works great in every single situation I've ever been in, except that one drat metal joint on the off-ramp, which I for some reason slip on every single time. Well, you're dealing with a situation of compromised traction, so while sliding isn't inevitable, it is definitely a possibility. There's a point where you can either try to balance the compromise to not lose traction at either end, but it seems safer to me to err on the side of the back end losing traction. Just don't try and Garry McCoy your way through the corner and you'll be fine 
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Nov 23, 2011 19:58
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If it's that worrisome you might even think about having an alternate or slightly modified route for rainy days, even if it's as cheesy as taking the opposite off-ramp and swinging a u-turn. The more you stress about it the better the odds you psych yourself out and stiffen up real bad going over it.
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Nov 24, 2011 02:19
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I've asked about plug chops before, but I still haven't gotten around to doing mine  The cold weather is messing with my already crappy tuning though, so I'm getting to it. A couple questions: What throttle openings should I be checking? Would idle, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and WOT make sense? For the actual procedure, I know you need to use a fresh set of plugs for each chop, and that you have to swap them in right before you do it, but isn't changing plugs in a hot aluminum head a stupid thing to do because of the metal expansion?
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Nov 25, 2011 00:31
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Who said you need new plugs for every chop? Whoever did is a liar. Even with the same plugs, you'll see huge differences at different throttle positions if something's off. Besides, changing plugs just adds two more variables (plug resistance and electrode gap) that makes chops like that unreliable. Ask me how I know. But yes, changing plugs on a hot aluminum head is kind of dodgy. Bring a torque wrench, and a thread chaser if you have one (though it's not required). Don't overtighten, and maybe use anti-seize.
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Nov 25, 2011 05:07
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Dodgy advice from old mechanics strikes again. They reasoned that the previous reading would screw up the new one somehow. Thanks though, I'll keep those in mind.
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Nov 25, 2011 05:30
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