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Son of a bitch. Sure is a GT2554. That sucks. 
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Nov 22, 2011 22:20
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FatCow posted:Those are some really healthy numbers for a GT2554, are you sure it isn't a 2560? 2554 usually drop off a lot more near redline. Dynojet
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Nov 22, 2011 23:27
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destructo posted:Dynojet Agreed, but the power range still looks (and feels) awfully nice.
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Nov 22, 2011 23:29
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You need more power?
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Nov 22, 2011 23:42
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Blaise posted:Agreed, but the power range still looks (and feels) awfully nice.
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Nov 22, 2011 23:58
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Stock block. I'm happy with it. I spoke to Bill at FlyinMiata and he said that the 2554 is pretty well matched to the 1.6. My concern was that the intake charge would be hotter with the 2554 during extended track use, but he said that as long as I watch the coolant temps it should be no problem. Car already has a big Koyo radiator so I might invest in some nice fans.
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Nov 23, 2011 00:13
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Fans should be fine. Look at an oil cooler and look into putting some effort into ducting.
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Nov 23, 2011 01:10
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Carfax checks out on the Miata. Unless the test drive is very disappointing or I don't fit in the car (I'm like 5'11) there's a good chance I'll try to get it. How do I sound knowledgeable whilst haggling the price down to a cool 13.3k?
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Nov 23, 2011 04:01
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Freedom
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craigslist.org autotrader.com cars.com kbb.com Find the average price for a similar car in a similar condition. Don't be afraid to walk.
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Nov 23, 2011 04:09
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Phone posted:craigslist.org Thanks! Any other advice for negotiating for miata's specifically?
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Nov 23, 2011 05:06
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Admiral Snuggles posted:Thanks! Any other advice for negotiating for miata's specifically? Timing belts and anything wrong on this list.
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Nov 23, 2011 05:28
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Ziploc posted:Timing belts and anything wrong on this list.
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Nov 23, 2011 07:02
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TrueChaos posted:Alright so I'm 95% sure it's time for a new battery, as it's getting harder and harder to start in the morning when it's cold out. I've been reading about AGM batteries and whatnot, and outside of not wanting to pay out the nose for one it seems like they're not as good at cold starting. What are my other options, and what should I be concerned about? Just get an AGM battery. They're spillproof (kinda important in the trunk), last forever, and aren't any more expensive than any of the regular batteries that you can get that fit in a Miata. Just make absolutely sure that whatever battery you get has vents. I'm pretty sure I got the Marathon battery from batterymart.com, and it works great, even in the cold.
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Nov 23, 2011 18:05
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Lyesh posted:Just make absolutely sure that whatever battery you get has vents. Unless it's the sealed Mazda battery, right? I removed the old one that had vents this spring and plopped in the new gel-cell battery from the dealer. I know gel-cells don't need a vent, but just wanted to make 100% sure.
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Nov 24, 2011 08:20
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Hey guys I'm looking to buy a miata in the next few weeks, is there are reason I shouldn't go look at this one? https://www.tinyurl.com/bw8kfyp And if I do what do you guys think its worth?
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Nov 25, 2011 21:50
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tattoli posted:Hey guys I'm looking to buy a miata in the next few weeks, is there are reason I shouldn't go look at this one?
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Nov 26, 2011 00:41
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I know a lot of people prefer the NA to the NB, but that's a serious premium over an early ('99-'00) NB.
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Nov 26, 2011 10:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:I know a lot of people prefer the NA to the NB, but that's a serious premium over an early ('99-'00) NB. Depends on where you live. Here in Seattle low mileage M editions seem to go for about that on craigslist.
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Nov 26, 2011 10:52
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What are some thoughts on a the new skyactiv engine put into an NC?
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Nov 26, 2011 11:41
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Got my NC guys. Red and beautiful 2006 with 5500 miles. Got a really good deal on it (3.5k below kbb/nada). Thanks for the all the help!
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Nov 27, 2011 00:28
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Grats. Didn't you use to play SC2?
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Nov 27, 2011 00:43
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949racing is not very good at shipping parts/ responding to people.
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Nov 27, 2011 02:50
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Phone posted:Grats. Yep. Which was u?
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Nov 27, 2011 03:11
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^^ Phone. I was/is bad.Piano posted:949racing is not very good at shipping parts/ responding to people. They're at an endurance race. Look at Emilio's facebook.
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Nov 27, 2011 03:21
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Still, it's been over a month now since I ordered :/
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Nov 27, 2011 03:35
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Endlinks?
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Nov 27, 2011 03:51
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I ordered 15x8 6ULs from 949 the day before thanksgiving and they shipped same day.
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Nov 27, 2011 16:35
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I never had a problem with Emilio. He always emailed me back quick too.
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Nov 27, 2011 19:09
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Ugh. The paint on my 95M is starting to haze on the bubble part of the hood, I expected it to happen once I lost my garage but I didn't expect it to happen so soon. It isn't too bad yet, and the rest of the paint isn't perfect(coming up on 125,xxxmiles), but is there anything I can do to stop it? ninja edit: I'll post pictures as soon as I find the card reader for my camera
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Nov 28, 2011 21:22
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Ugh. The paint on my 95M is starting to haze on the bubble part of the hood, I expected it to happen once I lost my garage but I didn't expect it to happen so soon. It isn't too bad yet, and the rest of the paint isn't perfect(coming up on 125,xxxmiles), but is there anything I can do to stop it? You can't stop it but you can slow it down by keeping it covered with a good sealant or wax and then just not touching it. Collinite waxes are drat near bulletproof.
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Nov 29, 2011 04:18
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 Well that's a nice color combo 
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Nov 29, 2011 18:41
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Mmmm, that does look good, except what the gently caress at the tailpipe turndown?
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Nov 29, 2011 19:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:Mmmm, that does look good, except what the gently caress at the tailpipe turndown? Car has nothing but an FM test pipe as a muffler right now. That was the cheap solution to get it to pass track sound regulations. I'm gonna fit a nice big Magnaflow under there in the spring
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Nov 29, 2011 19:22
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What wheels/colour are those? 
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Nov 29, 2011 19:49
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jammyozzy posted:What wheels/colour are those? 15x9 6UL with LOTS OF BRAKE DUST (not painted that color).
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Nov 29, 2011 20:12
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Maybe someone here knows the answer. I've been searching the net trying to find a diagram without any luck. I'm installing a head unit in a 06 touring non-bose. The unit has a wire with the install process as follows: Light green Used to deteched the ON/OFF status of the parking brake. This lead must be connected to the power supply side of the parking brake switch. Does anyone know where I could tap into this wire near the stereo? Or at all for that matter.
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Nov 29, 2011 21:33
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Blaise posted:15x9 6UL with LOTS OF BRAKE DUST (not painted that color). Paint them that color then. poxin posted:Light green Do yourself a favor and figure out whether it wants to see +12V or ground to indicate an engaged parking brake, and just hardwire it to that. It's just used to limit certain features to only be usable with the vehicle stopped.
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Nov 29, 2011 21:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do yourself a favor and figure out whether it wants to see +12V or ground to indicate an engaged parking brake, and just hardwire it to that. It's just used to limit certain features to only be usable with the vehicle stopped. The head unit (pioneer mvh-p7300) requires a relay to do disable this, which is fine. The problem is I like to use the auto-eq feature of the head unit which needs to have that relay disconnected before use. You wouldn't think it would be used much but I've had to auto-eq my last car a lot due to lost settings on the head unit, disconnected battery, and any change in components. It would be a mammoth pain in the rear end to take the radio out and disconnect this every time. Playing video on the 3" screen isn't very important to me. Edit: I think it's the blue/yellow wire. Now to find it. I haven't torn apart the radio yet but I hope there is something back there. poxin fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Nov 29, 2011 |
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Nov 29, 2011 21:52
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Hey guys ive got a weird problem that stumped even my local mechanic. Im no greasemonkey, i can rotate tires and change oil, maybe brakes on a good day, but kast month i took the big step and changed my clutch and flywheel at home 800 miles later it all works fine, except for the reverse lights. I must have made a mistake. They come on when the gearstick is put into reverse like normal, but in addition to that they remain on when the stick is in neutral. Putting it in any forward gear puts the light out. (they even flash when i shift) Ive removed the reverse bulbs as a temporary measure, but does anyone have an idea what could cause this and how to fix it?
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Nov 30, 2011 01:11
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Hey guys ive got a weird problem that stumped even my local mechanic. CPS got knocked out of position?
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Nov 30, 2011 01:21
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