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Yeah, but I was still impressed by how much crap got in there. I have had the battery out before but it was in the middle of the night (when else do batteries ever fail) so I never even thought to look and make sure I wasn't carrying extra weight. Also, while I now have a new appreciation for how Mazda managed to package this thing in here, with as many sharp 90* bends there are in the airflow and the way the turbo inlet pipe is dimpled, it's amazing this engine makes the power it does.
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Nov 28, 2011 08:12
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Do you have an aftermarket turbo inlet, or were you planning on installing one while you had everything disassembled? From your picture it looks like it would've been pretty easy to do, but I'm not familiar with how much power you would gain from that or if you have an AP.
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Nov 28, 2011 08:14
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No, I stuck with the stock inlet. Funny thing is, despite it being rectangular and heavily dimpled, apparently none of the aftermarket ones can actually show any significant, repeatable gain in power. All of them quote some nebulous 3-5hp which, in reality, falls pretty much into margin of error territory. A lot of people do say it spools better, though. Aside from the Mazdaspeed CAI that was on it when I bought it, I plan on leaving this car stock for quite some time still.
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Nov 28, 2011 15:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:Baby turbo picture Sublime Process posted:Stock boost should peak around ~15.6 psi, I believe. Someone might need to back me up on this. I remember reading this in the owners manual. I have heard that the stock turbo can handle "short bursts" of up to 28 psi. Why anyone would do that I am not sure. (aside from the obvious POOOWWWWWAAAAAAA)
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Nov 28, 2011 16:17
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Removing the nipple on top was actually almost completely painless for me, I had no idea everyone breaks it until after I finished the job and decided to start researching TIPs. On a completely unrelated note, the Mazda curse can strike anywhere, any way - even from behind!  Rearended in my Ranger this morning by a nice guy in a Protege5. I gave him his badge back. Plus side, it wasn't in the 3, so it won't be tied up in the shop. Downside, it wasn't in the 3, so ow my back.
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Nov 28, 2011 18:14
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Woohoo! Just made a deal on a set of wheels for the MS6! Now to decide on winter rubber to wrap them in! I'm leaning towards the Blizzaks, any input before I drop the cash?
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Nov 28, 2011 20:36
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General Altimax Arctic Dunlop Graspic DS3 Continental ExtremeWinterContact All good alternatives to the Blizzaks. I've had experience with all three and have been satisfied. The Arctics are great in deep-ish snow, but give up some dry traction because of the large tread.
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Nov 28, 2011 20:47
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SynMoo posted:General Altimax Arctic I'm not finding any of those in 215/45-18 or 225/45-18 on Tirerack. It's on;y giving me two choices on the 215s and 5 in the 225s.
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Nov 28, 2011 20:52
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e: Nevermind. 18 is a tough size for winter tires.
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Nov 28, 2011 21:17
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What about 225/40-18?
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Nov 29, 2011 00:58
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MetaJew posted:What about 225/40-18? I hear fitting them to the stock MS6 wheels is difficult. I'm leaning towards the Blizzaks just for the ease of getting them fitted and balanced.
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Nov 29, 2011 01:01
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Ah, I figured that the MS6 and MS3 wheels were the same size-- and thus you could probably run the same tire sizes without difficulty. 
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Nov 29, 2011 01:54
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MetaJew posted:Ah, I figured that the MS6 and MS3 wheels were the same size-- and thus you could probably run the same tire sizes without difficulty. 18 inchers over here baby.
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Nov 29, 2011 01:59
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Rhyno posted:18 inchers over here baby. The 2010+ MS3's use 18" wheels too, not sure about the older ones but I thought they did too? The stock tires on the 2010+ MS3 are 215/45/18 I believe. (Mine are in the garage right now and I'm lazy)
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Nov 29, 2011 02:08
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Brain Issues posted:The 2010+ MS3's use 18" wheels too, not sure about the older ones but I thought they did too? Does the MS3 have the massive brakes the MS6 does? There were practically no cheap wheels available under 18 inches that could clear the rotors so I've sourced a set of stockers.
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Nov 29, 2011 02:11
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Rhyno posted:Does the MS3 have the massive brakes the MS6 does? There were practically no cheap wheels available under 18 inches that could clear the rotors so I've sourced a set of stockers. The 2010+ speed3 has 12.6" rotors in front and 11" in back. From what I'm seeing it looks like (at least the fronts) that they are the same rotors on the Speed6. I'm running 16" steelies on my speed3, but they barely clear the rotors. edit: When I say barely, I mean it, there is only a couple mm of clearance between the wheels and calipers on the front. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Nov 29, 2011 |
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Nov 29, 2011 02:20
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Brain Issues posted:The 2010+ speed3 has 12.6" rotors in front and 11" in back. From what I'm seeing it looks like (at least the fronts) that they are the same rotors on the Speed6. I'm running 16" steelies on my speed3, but they barely clear the rotors. According to tirerack, 16's won't fit the MS6 and they don't have any steelies in 17 inches. No biggie, I got my second set of OEMs for $400. Looks like I'm gonna drop $600+ on tires next weekend.
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Nov 29, 2011 02:30
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Rhyno posted:18 inchers over here baby. Rhyno posted:Does the MS3 have the massive brakes the MS6 does? There were practically no cheap wheels available under 18 inches that could clear the rotors so I've sourced a set of stockers. "Wikipedia: Mazdaspeed3 Article posted:Volvo-sourced 12.6 in (320 mm) front and 11.0 in (280 mm) rear brake discs hide under 18 in (457 mm) wheels. "Some Website I found on Google: Mazdaspeed6 Article posted:Braking is by discs all around, with fronts measuring 12.6 inches and vented, and rears measuring 12.3 inches and solid. The brakes work in synergy with the four-wheel anti-lock braking system (ABS), Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) and Active Torque Split All-Wheel-Drive system to exhibit an outstanding level of active safety. I keep hearing people talk about the Speed6 having massive brakes, but from the sounds of it, both cars share the same size front rotors. Perhaps the calipers on the MS6 are larger, but if not I would imagine both cars can run the same wheels (not considering offset). In this case, you could run FD RX7 16" wheels if you really wanted to. I'm gonna go ahead and call shenanigans until someone corrects me. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Nov 29, 2011 |
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Nov 29, 2011 02:39
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I can't get quoting to work right. :|Rhyno posted:According to tirerack, 16's won't fit the MS6 and they don't have any steelies in 17 inches. No biggie, I got my second set of OEMs for $400. Looks like I'm gonna drop $600+ on tires next weekend. Tirerack is not to be trusted. They also say that 17"s won't fit the MS3.
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Nov 29, 2011 02:43
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MetaJew posted:Tirerack is not to be trusted. They also say that 17"s won't fit the MS3. Tire Rack told me that 17" and 16" wheels would work with my MS3? That's why I bought my 16" steelies and tires from them.
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Nov 29, 2011 02:45
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MetaJew posted:I can't get quoting to work right. :| Many posters on Mazdas247 had the same problems with fitting 17 inch wheels. And yes, the calipers are bigger if memory serves.
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Nov 29, 2011 02:49
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Rhyno posted:Many posters on Mazdas247 had the same problems with fitting 17 inch wheels. And yes, the calipers are bigger if memory serves. Yea all the posts I'm seeing from MS6 owners say that 16" steelies don't fit on the MS6 for some reason. The rotors on the MS6 are the same size in the front as the MS3, the back rotors are slightly bigger than the MS3 because of the AWD. So that must mean that the front calipers are larger I guess?
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Nov 29, 2011 02:57
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Brain Issues posted:Yea all the posts I'm seeing from MS6 owners say that 16" steelies don't fit on the MS6 for some reason. The rotors on the MS6 are the same size in the front as the MS3, the back rotors are slightly bigger than the MS3 because of the AWD. So that must mean that the front calipers are larger I guess? I found a post on another forum with a broken picture link but the text describes the Speed6 rotors as being stupidly huge.
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Nov 29, 2011 03:07
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I've got 17" Snowflakes from the Gen1 3 on my 2010 Speed3. 205/50-17. Factory is 225/40-18, by the way. As far as the MS3 goes, I think the rule is that MOST 17" wheels will fit and SOME 16" wheels will fit. It depends on the offset and the wheel design.
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Nov 29, 2011 14:20
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FWIW I have 16" steelies for the winter on my MS3, that Tirerack sold me. 16x6.5, 205/60/16
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Nov 29, 2011 18:43
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opengl128 posted:FWIW I have 16" steelies for the winter on my MS3, that Tirerack sold me. 16x6.5, 205/60/16 Same thing here running General Altimax Arctics on them.
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Nov 29, 2011 20:37
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So of course I plan to get snow tires this week and it loving snows today. Then I almost get smashed by an out of control semi. Thank god for my feeble driving skills.
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Nov 30, 2011 01:42
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Rhyno posted:So of course I plan to get snow tires this week and it loving snows today. Then I almost get smashed by an out of control semi. Thank god for my feeble driving skills. My car felt like a tank on the way home through a few inches with these tires 
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Nov 30, 2011 02:09
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Brain Issues posted:My car felt like a tank on the way home through a few inches with these tires I'm insanely jealous. Today made me wish I hadn't traded my 4x4 Jeep for a RWD truck.
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Nov 30, 2011 02:23
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So apparently Mazda has a new trim level called "GS-L"..... GS is a mid-level car (GX is low end, GT is high end). The "L" means luxury..... so you do not have to buy a top level GT to get leather. So how about a Skyactiv, 6 speed manual with leather for example. Edit: Or should I say, they brought back the GS-L
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Dec 1, 2011 23:34
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Welp, I did indeed have a boost leak. Did a datalogging run and found I could only spike to about 12 PSI, with constant boost in the 8-10 PSI range even in third and fourth gears. Came back, poked around, couldn't find anything. Came back to it ten minutes later and poked around still more and finally bumped against the clamp on the throttle body itself, only to realize it was completely loose  Tightened it up and voila, 15 PSI with at least one spike to 17 as reported by OBDII! On another note: I haven't done much datalogging but OBDII was only reporting about 88% throttle, even in third/fourth with the pedal pegged. Normal, or something I need to do about my replacement throttle body?
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Dec 3, 2011 21:46
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Did you do a TB replacement procedure? I know on VW's they need to be run through a re-learn procedure. That said, it's completely possible that the TB opens that far and modulating the pedal actually modulates the boost or a combination thereof.
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Dec 3, 2011 22:03
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I think that's just normal throttle behavior. It doesn't usually come fully open and never stays that way for long.
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Dec 3, 2011 22:56
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Yeah, I replaced mine (went from a -640 to -640-A to get rid of P2119). I don't see anything in the service manual about a relearn so I guess it's all good. Doesn't drive any differently, that's for sure.
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Dec 4, 2011 04:26
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Made it to Denver! My Hawaiian car did fine, aside from the washer fluid freezing solid and a P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature up around 10,000ft elevation and 4*F . I don't fault it for thinking its a frozen hell. edit: gently caress. Washer Reservoir is cracked. Laranzu fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 02:30
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Welp, wore out another set of tires, this one went about two weeks short of a solid year. Going to hopefully try the Dunlop SP Sport Maxx TT if Discount can get it in here shortly...I corded the drat Kumho Ecsta LEs, same as the Hankook RS2s before them.
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Dec 8, 2011 07:24
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I just picked up a 2012 w/tech on Monday to replace my poor old Accord that finally died. I'm having quite a bit of fun with it so far, and it is literally twice the horsepower and torque of the Honda. Clearly my next car needs 520hp and 560lb-ft of torque to continue the trend. And after putting on my winter wheel/tire combo courtesy of tirerack: 
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Dec 21, 2011 06:57
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Congratulations on the new car! Can I just remind you all why I mostly avoid Mazdaspeedforums? Take a walk with me, won't you? Summary: This guy, 'Corypechon' mods his car and then doesn't do any tuning. Not long after he blows the engine. He then takes the car to the Mazda dealership, mods still on, and expects to get a brand new engine. You get the picture: Some lovely Mazda forum posted:
I'm not sure what failures this guy is talking about. I've heard the Subaru guys claim that putting any load on the engine in sixth gear is bad and could end poorly. Accelerating from sixty in sixth is just on the edge of the power band, so I usually downshift a gear or two if I'm going to pass someone on the highway. This is a pretty worthless post, but why do car forums gotta be full of such tools?
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Dec 21, 2011 07:24
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I accelerate in 6th gear from 60mph all the time. Power builds quickly and I'm at 80mph and past my target before I know it. Is this really a concern with a factory tune? Surely I'm not in any danger of leaning out without a tune.
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Dec 21, 2011 08:26
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Power does build nicely, I've just heard claims that you should avoid pulls in the higher gears. The argument was something along the lines of building full boost at low RPMs because the engine is under a heavier load due to gearing, the AFR goes lean, and you get knock. This might be more of a concern on the STIs since their factory tune is garbage. I don't have any data logging equipment at this time, though so I have no idea what the KR looks like. Edit: Downshifting to 4th and blowing past everyone is pretty fun, too.
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Dec 21, 2011 09:12
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