|
Ziploc posted:MK1 600/1200 Bandits definitely have interchangeable uppers triples. They mounted the clocks to the steering for both faired and non-faired models. The N Bandits, both 600 and 1200 are exceedingly rare in the US, and in North America in general as far as I know. You're probably not finding any because they didnt sell many N's, the S was more popular by far. I actually didnt even know the 600 2nd gen came in an N version in the US, and, from what you're finding, it may not have been. I'd wager that 95% of the N Bandits you see in North America have been converted from S, and were not sold that way. Your best bet may be to buy the OEM parts off bikebandit, although that will be pretty expensive, or ebay them from Europe, where the N's were much more popular. As for your original question, the top triples will not be the same between the 600 and the 1200, and the forks are not tapered.
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2011 18:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 11:33 |
|
|
If I go that route (which is looking exceedingly likely) BikeBandit doesn't even list the 600cc MK2 nakeds on their site. So I actually don't have a way to buy them new. Welp.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2011 20:14
|
|
|
Olde Weird Tip posted:and the forks are not tapered. Hmm, it loving provokes me when people that aren't me are right, and force me to actually do research! drat you Mr. Weird Tip. You are correct that the 600 and the 1200 bandits are in fact 2mm diameter off. Centers align though and copper bushings would easily make it fit. To explain my bad advise, GSFs are essentially Katanas, and Katanas were tapered fork ends and exchangeable triples (in Europe anyway). No, there's no real excuse. I fixed a GSF600 fork for another forum member less than 4 month ago, and I should be able to remember that the fork ends were indeed not tapered. gently caress!
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2011 23:03
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:gently caress! Eh, worse mistakes could have been made. Misremembering fork tube diameters ranks fairly low on the list.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2011 23:22
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:Eh, worse mistakes could have been made. Misremembering fork tube diameters ranks fairly low on the list. I love you just as much as my other kids! (sometimes)
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2011 23:29
|
|
|
Ok gentlemen. An idea where I'm going to find one new since I can't find one used? BikeBandit ,which is having a 20% off EVERYTHING sale today, doesn't even list naked 600s...
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 15:43
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:Hmm, it loving provokes me when people that aren't me are right, and force me to actually do research! drat you Mr. Weird Tip. Its cool dude, breathe, you'll be OK. I just know that the forks arent tapered because I have a Bandit 12 sitting in my garage. Ziploc posted:Ok gentlemen. Dennis Kirk doesnt list them either. I'm beginning to think that they didnt exist in America. The OEM B12N is all but a ghost in North America, the 600N may not have been even offered here. The other option is to custom mount the gauges not using the OEM hardware. Have you tried poking around http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php for answers on that? They tend to be pretty helpful. If you cant find the right top triple, it may be your only option. The other one being finding a complete B12 triple/forks/wheel and mounting that??? Grasping at straws here, but: This post kind of supports the thought that the B6N might not exist in NA: http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php?topic=74383.msg822086#msg822086 This suggests that SV650 triples may work? http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php?topic=70573.msg776089#msg776089 Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Nov 28, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 17:37
|
|
|
Ziploc posted:Ok gentlemen. You live in Canada, right? Did you call RPM and ask them about a used one? http://www.rpm-cycle.com/ I think some Katana uppers might fit too, but it's likely that RPM can answer that question better than I can. If you're poo poo out of luck, I'll have no problem getting a new and mint upper N-triple for you and ship it from Europe, but it's not worth it in my opinion. Hmm, actually, just checked. Yes, I can indeed order a flashing new upper triple for your Bandit 600. It'll probably be cheaper to pay me for, hmmm, "disposing" Kozmonaut and "borrowing" his.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 18:05
|
|
|
CombatMedic posted:Can anyone think of any downsides to having a small blinking red light on your tail at night? I think you are not allowed to have a constantly blinking red light, but I haven't been able to find anything to confirm this. You could always put one of these over your jacket like I did - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDTXZW/
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 18:23
|
|
|
Raven457 posted:I think you are not allowed to have a constantly blinking red light, but I haven't been able to find anything to confirm this. I got over the whole "looking like a tool" thing (poo poo, I wear icon gear so job done already) and I wear one of these any time I'm in congested areas. I was thinking of some reflective tape for my helmet as well. I have a couple questions, one stupid: I'm pulling parts off of the front of my wrecked FZ6 ('04 half faired), assessing the damage, and figuring out what my next step is from here. I need to sort out what I've broken, what is still good, and then start pricing replacements. As of now I'm torn between repairing it and just swapping the front end for a naked set up, since a few model years later they released a naked model as well. Has anyone done that kind of swap, and any advice on it? I need to do a bit more research but I'm assuming, dangerously perhaps, that it should be pretty straightforward to swap them out. With the money I can make back selling the unbroken pieces this might make sense money wise, since I don't plan on getting rid of the bike any time soon and it's already worth under 3k anyway. That was the real question, now the stupid one. Apologies for the lovely phone cam but I think you can see what kind of harness connector it is. How do I disconnect this? It looks like it has a normal little clip to push on the top, like the other one, but that doesn't seem to connect the same, and it also looks like it locks in on the sides. I tried messing with it a bit, but it seems like it needs something to clamp both sides to release it. Rather than muscle it and end up yanking a wire out or something, I thought I ask first. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 20:57
|
|
|
Lift the clip in the middle of the connector there and the inner slides out. The outer bits don't do anything, there's just a tab on the male part that clips in to the slot on the female part. that's what she said
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 20:59
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:If you're poo poo out of luck, I'll have no problem getting a new and mint upper N-triple for you and ship it from Europe, but it's not worth it in my opinion. Throw me some numbers! --- I kinda figured B6N and B12Ns weren't really available here. But I thought BikeBandit was more than North America. Oops! What's my best bet overseas? Ziploc fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Nov 28, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 21:29
|
|
|
Have you verified against an SV650 triple? Those are everywhere in NA.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 21:52
|
|
|
2ndclasscitizen posted:Shoot me that link, love PB mag. http://www.classicbikebooks.com/catalog/ Dunno if that'll help out you Aussies.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2011 23:54
|
|
|
Olde Weird Tip posted:Have you verified against an SV650 triple? Those are everywhere in NA. Yup. Since I want to reuse my handle bars, the SV is out due to clipons.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 01:26
|
|
|
Ziploc posted:Yup. Since I want to reuse my handle bars, the SV is out due to clipons. SV650 N would accept the handlebars. I just happen to have one in a box somewhere...
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 01:42
|
|
|
As z3n said, the N would work with your bars, and may be able to accept the gauges as well. Even a picture of one should tell you that. The forks are the same size, so it should come down to stem and bearings.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 05:19
|
|
|
Hey guys. Got another problem with my bike.. Its currently raining here in little old Adelaide. So when I got home, I backed my bike into my little space undercover, and looked at the front rim. Then something horrific happened... a black ooze, came down and dripped on the ground. So, what was it? Fork fluid or brake fluid? Seals or what? I haven't really got that much experience with that.. Its a 2007 ZX10R... and I'll add this part because I can. SPECIAL BLACK AND RED EDITION! Cheers in advance.  :edit: Just answered my own question. I'm a freaking idiot. Its RAINING IN ADELAIDE. Raining.... Dirty (red  ) rims, cleaned some of the dirt off with water. Idiot...
fingerling fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Nov 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 12:27
|
|
|
Z3n posted:SV650 N would accept the handlebars. I just happen to have one in a box somewhere... Hi, I'm z3n. I just happen to have an SV650N in boxes in and amongst my garage if you'd like to buy it. I'll build it for you and have it ready in two working days. I dunno why, that's how I read it 
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 19:19
|
|
|
SaNChEzZ posted:Hi, I'm z3n. I just happen to have an SV650N in boxes in and amongst my garage if you'd like to buy it. I'll build it for you and have it ready in two working days. Probably because it's fairly realistic. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 20:18
|
|
|
I got my MTX-L yesterday, and I'm gonna need some advice on wiring it up. I know it's more simple than I'm making it, but I want to make sure before I tear into my loom. Wiring instructions: 1. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source. A switched 12V source goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a minimum fuse size of 3A. 2. Connect the BLACK wire to a ground source. Avoid noisy ground sources, such as grounds used for radio and or ignition sources. 3. Connect the WHITE wire to a headlight power wire (a wire that supplies current to the headlights). This enables the display to dim for better nighttime viewing. DO NOT CONNECT THIS WIRE TO THE HEADLIGHT DIMMING WIRE. Connection to this rheostat type of switch will cause the gauge to malfunction. If you chose not to utilize the dimming feature, connect the WHITE wire to ground. The white is easy enough, but I need some suggestions on where to hook up the red and black wires:  Would the accessory leads on the left be suitable? They already have convenient connectors and everything. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Nov 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 20:38
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Probably because it's fairly realistic. I have an entire RV90 in parts in my attic, soooooooooo.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 21:42
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:I got my MTX-L yesterday, and I'm gonna need some advice on wiring it up. I know it's more simple than I'm making it, but I want to make sure before I tear into my loom. Do the accessory leads show 12v when the bike is on and 0v when it's off? If so, sure. Olde Weird Tip posted:I have an entire RV90 in parts in my attic, soooooooooo. High five bike disassembly buddy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 23:38
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Do the accessory leads show 12v when the bike is on and 0v when it's off? If so, sure. This is why I shouldn't do electrical work. I couldn't think of this to check myself. And nope, turns out the leads aren't switched, they're constantly on.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2011 00:58
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:This is why I shouldn't do electrical work. I couldn't think of this to check myself. That's what I thought...usually accessory leads aren't switched, there's an expectation that there's a switch on whatever aftermarket gear you have. However, considering you're just going to be using this to get the tuning spot on, you could just connect and disconnect it as you need it, with a fuse soldered in. I'd probably use a 10A one, but that's just me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2011 01:42
|
|
|
I SWEAR THIS QUESTION ISN'T ABOUT TRIPLES. I grabbed some StaBil for my bike. I noticed that there is a marine formula for fuels with more ethanol. Is it safe to assume that normal StaBil is fine for fuels with up to 10% ethanol? Ziploc fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Nov 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2011 17:16
|
|
|
Ziploc posted:
Yes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2011 18:52
|
|
|
Ziploc, where in Ontario are you? You could always try Zdeno down in Kitchener for salvage parts.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2011 14:02
|
|
|
Chris Knight posted:Ziploc, where in Ontario are you? You could always try Zdeno down in Kitchener for salvage parts. The Hammer. I left them am email. But it looks like I'll have to look into salvage oveseas. I think I'll instead use the winter break to tear apart my bikini fairing and see if I can locate/fix the buzz. If I can manage to fix that, I'll be quite happy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2011 16:46
|
|
|
So the new (old) bike had an owner who apparently only put a gallon of gas in at a time. I was checking the tank out today and saw some rust spots, what's the best way to take care of it short of replacing the tank?
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 06:26
|
|
|
I can report great success 1.5 years after coating my rusty (from the factory) Enfield tank with Caswell sealer. I used some vinegar+salt+deck screws (as an abrasive) as outlined here before the coating, and it has held up well. Though I only did vinegar for one afternoon, not 5 days like the post says. After doing the vinegar, I washed the tank out with a baking soda mix, water, then rubbing alcohol, then water again, then I let it dry for a day with a small fan pointed over the filler neck to get some airflow.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 06:44
|
|
|
I've heard good things about Caswell. Just, whatever you do, stay away from POR15. Their kit works, but the process is a bitch.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 06:47
|
|
|
You can also use electrolysis, there was a goon who did it to a vintage two stroke a while back, worked really well as I remember.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 09:48
|
|
|
nullscan posted:So the new (old) bike had an owner who apparently only put a gallon of gas in at a time. I was checking the tank out today and saw some rust spots, what's the best way to take care of it short of replacing the tank? How bad are they? Discoloration or surface spots are alright...active rust is not.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 10:06
|
|
|
If you've got the equipment already, electrolysis can work fairly well, but you do risk thinning the metal too much if it's an old tank, and you have to be very careful and specific with which chemicals you use. When you're done, you can also re-coat the inside of the tank with, say, copper (easiest metal to electroplate, IMO. All you need really is a lot of vinegar). It really is much easier to remove rust with electrolysis when it's on the outside of objects, though, and setup if you haven't done it before can be a pain. I can't argue with the results it gives if done properly. Either way, when you're done removing the rust I'd still coat the inside with something (something that isn't Kreem or Red Kote, that is; anything but those two).
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 10:06
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:If you've got the equipment already, electrolysis can work fairly well, but you do risk thinning the metal too much if it's an old tank, and you have to be very careful and specific with which chemicals you use. When you're done, you can also re-coat the inside of the tank with, say, copper (easiest metal to electroplate, IMO. All you need really is a lot of vinegar). It really is much easier to remove rust with electrolysis when it's on the outside of objects, though, and setup if you haven't done it before can be a pain. I can't argue with the results it gives if done properly. You can homebrew the equipment pretty easily, all you need is an old AC/DC converter and some spare flex. Chemicals should be fairly benign (and thus easy to acquire) too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 11:42
|
|
|
Can you mix seafoam with Sta-bil? The reason I ask is I took the bike out one last time to fill it up and put stabil in it as I don't see myself riding much in the coming months. I rode it around for about 20 min and the whole time the bike would die if it dropped below ~3500 and had to have the choke on. So I figure the carbs are a little clogged from sitting the last 2 months in my cold as garage(Seattle). I was wondering if I should put in some seafoam, run it around for 20 min, then fill it up and put stabil, or do I have to burn up most of the gas after I put in the Seafoam?
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 16:38
|
|
|
Z3n posted:How bad are they? Discoloration or surface spots are alright...active rust is not. Well it's kind of hard to tell, and it's an 89 GSXR 750 that's had a rough life on Hawaii so everything is pretty corroded, going to take a lot of cleaning up. I figure I'll give the vinegar treatment a go and see if I can't borrow a snake-scope from work to check everything out on the inside. It wouldn't break my heart to replace the tank as it has a few dings and the plastic was all jacked up so I'm not keeping it stock, it's just 600 bucks I'd rather not spend.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 17:01
|
|
|
Dial M for MURDER posted:Can you mix seafoam with Sta-bil? The reason I ask is I took the bike out one last time to fill it up and put stabil in it as I don't see myself riding much in the coming months. I rode it around for about 20 min and the whole time the bike would die if it dropped below ~3500 and had to have the choke on. So I figure the carbs are a little clogged from sitting the last 2 months in my cold as garage(Seattle). I was wondering if I should put in some seafoam, run it around for 20 min, then fill it up and put stabil, or do I have to burn up most of the gas after I put in the Seafoam? This is completely anecdotal, but the GS500 that I recently flipped had Seafoam in its tank and carbs when it sat for 6 months. When I opened up the float bowls, it seriously looked like someone had dumped a bunch of crushed popcorn in there. I can't say whether or not it was the old Seafoam that did it, but I'd err on the side of caution if I were you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 18:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 11:33 |
|
|
Dial M for MURDER posted:Can you mix seafoam with Sta-bil? The reason I ask is I took the bike out one last time to fill it up and put stabil in it as I don't see myself riding much in the coming months. I rode it around for about 20 min and the whole time the bike would die if it dropped below ~3500 and had to have the choke on. So I figure the carbs are a little clogged from sitting the last 2 months in my cold as garage(Seattle). I was wondering if I should put in some seafoam, run it around for 20 min, then fill it up and put stabil, or do I have to burn up most of the gas after I put in the Seafoam? Might be better off in this case slowly sucking seafoam through the carbs and engine through a vacuum line. I did this a few times on an old car and it worked great. Just find a vacuum line that you can pull off with it idling then very slowly suck seafoam in.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 18:37
|
|
