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Z3n posted:I'm with _Dav, check your spark plug leads and coils. When I pulled out the plugs, grounded them, and started the bike I saw little sparks arcing. Can I assume the coil is working properly or do i need to be more thorough and break out a multimeter? I changed the oil and put new plugs in anyway, because it was due for both. But the cutting out still persists, now i cant even move the throttle more than a centimeter or it will cut out completely and die. I did recently put premium gas in (which I've never done before), as well as use some STP brand Seafoam clone. Could either of those things have fouled my engine somehow?
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Dec 11, 2011 00:57
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| # ? May 16, 2024 01:21 |
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NoDoorway posted:hazard generally flashes both indicators at once. I've never seen a hazard switch on a bike before. Weird. How does that work? Does it work when you use the signal switch and that switch? Or is there a signal module in there too?
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Dec 11, 2011 00:57
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I've seen a couple of the bigger bikes with hazards, though you generally don't use them when moving.
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Dec 11, 2011 01:46
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I wired in some hazard lights (all you need is a handlebar switch, two diodes, and a few relays, really) because I was paranoid on my first bike without them. In three years I really only have used them twice, and that was when ascending a large hill during some heavy fog. Thought it would make me more visible or something. (I also do the same thing if I'm on the highway in a car and get caught in thick "you can't go 60mph because it's so thick but there's no shoulder either so you have to continue at 35 no matter what" fog - we get that a lot around here).
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Dec 11, 2011 02:27
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I'm pretty sure my 08 SV650 had them 
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Dec 11, 2011 03:44
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Yeah, 04+ sv650s have them at least, I've never been in a situation where I'd want to use them yet. All they do is flash all 4 indicators, just like on a car.
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Dec 11, 2011 03:51
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 So if get one like this (which is what my manual refers too) I'll be able to switch the signals to permanent be on for extra visibility?
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Dec 11, 2011 03:59
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Had an awesome day riding today (15 hours from leaving the house to returning). The weather was COLD though. I'm very glad I bought some extra clothes just in case as I ended up wearing all of them to stay warm. We did have a detour to a motorcycle shop as one of our group had some tire issues, and then about an hour from home my bike suddenly cut out on the freeway. BOTH the springs on the kickstand of the Aprilia had fallen off and the stand had come down which killed the motor. Solution = zip tie! Couldn't get off the bike after that, but thats OK. edit - apparently in my frozen state of mind I forgot to actually put a question - are kickstand springs generic or do I need to go through aprilia to get them??? GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Dec 11, 2011 |
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Dec 11, 2011 05:59
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Ziploc posted:
You'll need to bodge together some wiring I think, the switch won't do it for you. sixdeadpandas posted:When I pulled out the plugs, grounded them, and started the bike I saw little sparks arcing. Can I assume the coil is working properly or do i need to be more thorough and break out a multimeter? I changed the oil and put new plugs in anyway, because it was due for both. But the cutting out still persists, now i cant even move the throttle more than a centimeter or it will cut out completely and die. It's a carbed bike right? It bogging out with a little gas makes me think that your carbs are blocked/partially blocked with that seafoam stuff which could also account for the different temperatures in the heads. Maybe just try draining the carbs first and see if that works. _Dav fucked around with this message at 12:51 on Dec 11, 2011 |
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Dec 11, 2011 12:46
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KoeK posted:I've passed my drivers exam thursday, it all went well Gefeliciteerd met je a'tje!  The best way to get the in and out about a particular model your best bet is to find a specialist website dealing with only that model of bike.
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Dec 11, 2011 13:38
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NoDoorway posted:hazard generally flashes both indicators at once. "Both" 4 indicators.
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Dec 11, 2011 14:18
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My 636 doesn't have them (it has a lap timer though), but my old VFR did. I never really knew about them until I traded the bike away and watched the new owner pass a corvette and put them on immediately after.
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Dec 11, 2011 14:28
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_Dav posted:
Thanks for all the tips. I drained the carb as well as the contents of the gas tank, but it's still dying anytime i put a load on the engine. I opened the petcock to clean the fuel screen too, but it was missing. The air filter is completely filthy, so I took it off it's seal temporarily but it didnt appear to help. The uneven exhaust seems like the biggest indicator that something is wrong--yet I can rev it all the way unless I'm actually trying to move. When I took the old plugs out they were like charcoal. If the inside of the combustion chamber looks anything like that then I may be in trouble. e: Is there a more thorough way to test the ignition coil than pulling the plugs out and watching them spark? sixdeadpandas fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Dec 11, 2011 |
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Dec 11, 2011 20:27
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_Dav posted:You'll need to bodge together some wiring I think, the switch won't do it for you. Really? I'd be surprised. It came off of my year Bandit, but the Bandits in my country had the switch removed since it was illegal to ride without lights on. I would assume the main wiring harness still has the functionality. And it should plug in. We'll see anyway. 
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Dec 11, 2011 21:04
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Ziploc posted:Really? I'd be surprised. It came off of my year Bandit, but the Bandits in my country had the switch removed since it was illegal to ride without lights on. I would assume the main wiring harness still has the functionality. And it should plug in. Oh right, that's different. I thought you were putting a hazard switch into a bike that was never supposed to have one If you have the same block connectors I'm sure it'll work, unless they really tried to penny pinch..
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Dec 11, 2011 21:26
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Good news everyone! Remember this?Ziploc posted:There seem to be 4 different kinds of upper tripples for MK2 600/1200 Bandits. Which did/did not mount the clocks to the triples for the faired S versions. The 600 naked triples being the rarest. I found a wrecker who was parking out a GSF600 on the eBays. Got nearly all the OEM parts I needed for a steal from Britain. Just a few more parts and I can start bolting it all together. Excite!  Even managed to get the OEM headlight mounts. Now I get to choose what mirrors/signals/headlight I go with. I'll probably going as close to OEM as I can. Soon...  
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Dec 11, 2011 23:52
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Ok, dumbass question because I know next to nothing about bikes. Do I need to oil/lube my shifter? I noticed tonight while riding that between 1st and 2nd gear I have a LOT of trouble downshifting. No problem upshifting though. Do I need to lube my shifter or is my bike a piece of poo poo? Ninja Edit: When I say trouble shifting, I mean like, it's extremely HARD to shift. Like, I feel like I'm going to snap my shifter off if I put any more downforce on it...
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Dec 12, 2011 06:39
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How is your clutch adjustment?
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Dec 12, 2011 07:00
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I actually just had the cable adjusted. There shouldn't be a problem there. Like I said, there's no real problem with upshifting, just downshifting.
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Dec 12, 2011 07:31
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EZipperelli posted:I actually just had the cable adjusted. There shouldn't be a problem there. Like I said, there's no real problem with upshifting, just downshifting. Congrats you're clutchless upshifting! Too much slack in the cable causes the problem you describe. Back the adjuster out until you have minimal slack in it before it pulls on the cable.
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Dec 12, 2011 08:05
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Z3n posted:Congrats you're clutchless upshifting! Hm, now the difficult part is asking if you can give me a vague idea of what I'm looking for here. Sorry, my knowledge of bikes (as stated before) is like, slim to none. Normally, where is the adjuster located, and how do I back it out? edit: This would be the problem even if it only occurs during like, 1st and 2nd?
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Dec 12, 2011 18:32
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What is it like owning a pre-1980 2-stroke? Will it make me broke with maintenance if I do a couple thousand miles a year? I've seen a few Suzuki TS185 runners around for sale and there are a lot of dirt and gravel roads in Snohomish County I'd rather not take the Vstar down.
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Dec 12, 2011 18:55
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KARMA! posted:Gefeliciteerd met je a'tje! Bedankt , I'll try to find some africa twin websites, shouldn't be to hard
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Dec 12, 2011 18:55
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EZipperelli posted:Hm, now the difficult part is asking if you can give me a vague idea of what I'm looking for here. Sorry, my knowledge of bikes (as stated before) is like, slim to none. Sure, what bike is it? First and second have the biggest jump so the transmission has the most difficulty matching there. If you just adjusted the clutch freeplay and you started to experience this problem, chances are the clutch freeplay was adjusted the wrong direction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtXzulJyIIg If you still have any questions, let me know, or I can shoot a quick video tonight to shows you how to adjust it.
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Dec 12, 2011 19:01
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clutchpuck posted:What is it like owning a pre-1980 2-stroke? Will it make me broke with maintenance if I do a couple thousand miles a year? I've seen a few Suzuki TS185 runners around for sale and there are a lot of dirt and gravel roads in Snohomish County I'd rather not take the Vstar down. A pre-1980 Suzuki 2-stroke? Thats about as good as you can get. The old Suzuki smokers were arguably the best two strokes to come out of Japan if what you're looking for is streetability and reliability. Yamaha and Kawi tended to make more power per CC, but the Suzi's were much more livable day-to-day. They dont smoke as much either, so they arent as obnoxious to use for real life tasks where reeking like burnt oil and leaving a cloud at every stop is not ideal. My little RV90 is the most reliable two stroke I've ever owned. I just keep fuel and oil in it and its always ready to go. My Kawasaki 250 is a great bike too, but its much finickier, and not as overengineered as the suzuki. For reference, I rode the RV from Milwaukee to Chicago and back in two days and other than snapping a 30 year old clutch cable it did fine.
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Dec 12, 2011 21:27
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Speaking of clutch weirdness, I've been noticing lately that my bike is harder and harder to push with the clutch pulled in. It's not normally much of an issue, but Bonnevilles have lovely battery problems, so I end up bump starting it every once in a while. When in neutral, it pushes smooth as butter, but when I pop it into 2nd with the clutch in, it can be difficult to get moving and has a large amount of resistance. Is this maybe just something to do with the cold weather, or does it mean something isn't adjusted right? I could swear that pushing the bike with the clutch in used to feel pretty much the same as having it in neutral.
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Dec 13, 2011 16:55
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Cold oil drags a lot. See: choke. That's about as conclusive an answer you're going to get over the internet.
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Dec 13, 2011 16:58
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KARMA! posted:Cold oil drags a lot. See: choke. That's about as conclusive an answer you're going to get over the internet. On the same lines as this, you might find that a different brand of oil doesn't drag as much.
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Dec 13, 2011 18:49
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Z3n posted:On the same lines as this, you might find that a different brand of oil doesn't drag as much. Interesting, I had thought a fully disengaged clutch would be functionally equivalent to having the bike in neutral?
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Dec 13, 2011 19:15
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The answer there is that it's never quite fully disengaged.
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Dec 13, 2011 19:19
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SlightlyMadman posted:Interesting, I had thought a fully disengaged clutch would be functionally equivalent to having the bike in neutral? You know how a wet piece of paper sticks to stuff? It's like that. Z3n posted:On the same lines as this, you might find that a different brand of oil doesn't drag as much.
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Dec 13, 2011 19:59
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I think I might have to do something too. The bike jolts a noticeable amount when I pop it into first at a light. Won't move, but it sounds like a heavier shift than any other bike I've heard.
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Dec 13, 2011 20:18
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My KLR drags and pops significantly on dinosaur oil, much less on synthetic. Try synthetic the next time you change oil.
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Dec 13, 2011 20:46
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Safety Dance posted:...dinosaur oil... Plankton 
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Dec 13, 2011 21:30
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Ziploc posted:I think I might have to do something too. The bike jolts a noticeable amount when I pop it into first at a light. Won't move, but it sounds like a heavier shift than any other bike I've heard. Every bike I've sat on does this, it is not indicative of anything 'wrong'.
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Dec 13, 2011 22:10
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KARMA! posted:Every bike I've sat on does this, it is not indicative of anything 'wrong'. Mine doesn't  . Well, it did when I had the clutch misadjusted, but I managed to find that perfect throwout adjustment between "pops at lights" and "slips when gunning it." My rear tire does spin quite a bit even in neutral on the centerstand, though that's a downfall of my transmission design.
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Dec 13, 2011 22:14
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Wiring gurus, a bit of tutelage please. If you haven't noticed, I'm converting my bike to a naked one. Fortunately, I picked the hardest Bandit to do it to. (Mk2 600cc) Now, I've got the hard parts sourced. And am looking into the wiring. Mk2 bandits have two separate headlights. One for high and one for low. Both which stay on when in the highbeam mode. As far as I know, hooking both high and low signals to this (http://www.aztec8.com/catalog/i209.html) will burn it out quick since it only needs either low and high on. Not both. How do I accomplish this? I plan on chopping up another headlight subharness to do this. That is, unless someone can show me where to find a naked Mk2 subharness for me to buy.
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Dec 14, 2011 00:04
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KARMA! posted:Every bike I've sat on does this, it is not indicative of anything 'wrong'. Both my bikes do this when they're cold. The SV seems to stop doing it as much when it warms up, or at least its less pronounced. The Aprilia does it every time. Though Aprilia's engineers also apparently hate the idea of me being able to find neutral at all. Ever. I am the only guy who sits at every light with the clutch pulled in like a dork while everyone else is chilling out layin' back and stretching. Maybe that is connected.
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Dec 14, 2011 00:19
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GanjamonII posted:I am the only guy who sits at every light with the clutch pulled in like a dork while everyone else is chilling out layin' back and stretching. Maybe that is connected. For what it's worth, you're doing it properly. I sort of half hate myself every time I clunk it into N at a stoplight and let out the clutch. I figure a hydraulic clutch is sort of a meta-safety feature.
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Dec 14, 2011 00:24
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GanjamonII posted:I am the only guy who sits at every light with the clutch pulled in like a dork while everyone else is chilling out layin' back and stretching. Maybe that is connected. To be fair, if you're on a bike that allows you to hold the clutch in for more than 5 seconds without welding the throwout rod to the bearing, then that's what you should be doing at lights, in case someone doesn't see you stopped at the light and comes up barreling from behind. Lets you pull away quickly.
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Dec 14, 2011 00:49
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