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Olde Weird Tip posted:Awesome! Keep us updated on it, if the world needs more of anything, it's naked bikes!! Still getting parts at the moment. Only need signals, mirrors, and gauge bullets. Probably going to stay OEM for signals. I'm wondering if I should go for original mirrors, or get something with integrated signals like this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Integrated-M...=item3effd831b9 Probably going to go for the OEM style though: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MIRROR-SUZUK...=item19cbbd12b4 What do you guys think? Once I get all the parts I'll document the process. MK2 Bandit are much more complicated to convert. Need new headlight wiring, upper triple, clock mounts, fork mounts. Lots of fiddly poo poo. Ziploc fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Dec 19, 2011 |
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Dec 18, 2011 20:05
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My F4i has been in the shop for two weeks now, and I'm at my wit's end. The guy thought it was the fuel pressure sensor, but it wasn't, and now he's at an impasse. It starts fine, runs alright, then misses and is low on power when it warms up. I think he's going to check the valves next? Oy. I wouldn't be any better at troubleshooting it, but it is frustrating to not be able to do anything, and to not have my bike. Do you all have any suggestions on what could be going wrong? If I can't get my bike back before Christmas I'll go nuts. 
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Dec 19, 2011 22:50
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Ghost Cactus posted:My F4i has been in the shop for two weeks now, and I'm at my wit's end. The guy thought it was the fuel pressure sensor, but it wasn't, and now he's at an impasse. It starts fine, runs alright, then misses and is low on power when it warms up. I think he's going to check the valves next? Oy. I wouldn't be any better at troubleshooting it, but it is frustrating to not be able to do anything, and to not have my bike. What are the compression/leakdown numbers?
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Dec 19, 2011 23:23
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Ghost Cactus posted:My F4i has been in the shop for two weeks now, and I'm at my wit's end. The guy thought it was the fuel pressure sensor, but it wasn't, and now he's at an impasse. It starts fine, runs alright, then misses and is low on power when it warms up. I think he's going to check the valves next? Oy. I wouldn't be any better at troubleshooting it, but it is frustrating to not be able to do anything, and to not have my bike. Does he have a known-good CDI-box available for a temporary swap? That'd probably be the first thing I'd try from what you describe.
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Dec 19, 2011 23:25
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I'm still trying to get the 636 to run right. It would run ok before, but either heavy ticking or whining depending on the tensioner. I got a manual tensioner, installed it and now as of today it will start but won't hold idle. If I don't hold the throttle open it will stall after a couple minutes. My first thought is I put the tensioner in too loose and it skipped a tooth. I tightened it until finger tight, then backed it out a 1/4 turn, as per the directions. I missed the part about how you are supposed to tighten it while turning the motor over by hand, which is what I did just now. So it may have been pretty drat loose yesterday and skipped when I hit the starter (it didn't start). Second is that it might not be getting enough juice since the battery is completely dead now, but I have it on a charger (real car charger not a tender), to start and run it. Am I right? Am I taking the cams out for the third time? I can't find any info as to whether or not it's an interference motor either.
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Dec 20, 2011 01:53
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Right I've got one for you guys I was trying to get my right clipons off and I've manages to totally strip the hex of one of the bolts:  It's basically a circle now and I'm panicing that it's going to be a real hassle and expensive to get it out. Does anyone have a solution? Im willing to buy tools for this but only sensible options. Thanks
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Dec 20, 2011 02:04
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Take a saw to it, cut a groove, and use a big flat head screw driver? Seems like there is enough access.
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Dec 20, 2011 02:10
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I managed to get a stripped hex head out once by hammering in a oversized torx socket.
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Dec 20, 2011 02:12
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Gnaghi posted:I'm still trying to get the 636 to run right. It would run ok before, but either heavy ticking or whining depending on the tensioner. I got a manual tensioner, installed it and now as of today it will start but won't hold idle. If I don't hold the throttle open it will stall after a couple minutes. Get a good battery to start with. Did you check that the cams are still in time?
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Dec 20, 2011 02:54
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Piggly Wiggly Woo posted:It's basically a circle now and I'm panicing that it's going to be a real hassle and expensive to get it out. Does anyone have a solution? Im willing to buy tools for this but only sensible options. Soak the fucker down with a penetrating oil. No matter what you end up using, at some point you will be relying on luck to spin the fragments of a bolt out. Bolt outs, lefty drill bits, torx jammed in, and slots for a screwdriver all are sensible options. Bonus points for cutting a slot and using a impact driver with a big flat head. I would try to pound in a similar sized SAE allen or a torx bit first, stepping up destructive methods until you win. None of the tools you would have to buy to do the job cost alot, and they may save you next time you screw up.
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Dec 20, 2011 03:24
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To make you feel better about stripping that sucker, I once torqued a similar bolt so hard that it broke probably about 1/2 inches down, into my crankcase cover. A friend of mine wound up removing the crankcase cover and using a pair of vice grips to just pull it the rest of the way through. All in all, yours is not so bad, and you'll be gobsmacked when it strikes you how easy that was.
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Dec 20, 2011 05:10
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If you want to save some time on cutting the slot and have a steady hand, you can use a dremel to cut the slot for your driver. Just make sure it doesn't skip off the edge and screw something else up.
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Dec 20, 2011 05:21
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Can anyone who has used both stem and bar end mirrors comment on how they compared? I'm trying to decide if I want to use the stock mirrors or go with something different. For reference, stock mirrors.  (I wish mine was that clean)
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Dec 20, 2011 06:11
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Z3n posted:What are the compression/leakdown numbers? If only I knew.  Sir Cornelius posted:Does he have a known-good CDI-box available for a temporary swap? That'd probably be the first thing I'd try from what you describe. That makes sense, and I'll definitely ask him. Thank you both for your help.
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Dec 20, 2011 06:24
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Stock mirrors are generally much better, larger and more stable.
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Dec 20, 2011 06:24
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These seem to be reproductions of the stock mirrors. Unless someone can give me a reason to not to. Bike Bandit wants 80$ for 1 OEM mirror. I can get a nice clean pair for half that... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330652350016?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
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Dec 20, 2011 07:07
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I like napoleon-style bar-end mirrors. Don't get views of my shoulders. If I lived in a state where lane splitting was legal (and I was crazy enough to do it) I might have stuck with the stock rabbit ear mirrors, but for now bar-end mirrors are the way to go, if you have the right handlebar style (don't work too well for low handlebars, or ape hangers, but if you're in the middle they're pretty good).
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Dec 20, 2011 07:33
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I had the napoleon mirror(s) on my buell and they worked really well. The stock swivel ones tend to vibrate out of position if you aren't re-tightening them all the time.  Z3n posted:Get a good battery to start with. Did you check that the cams are still in time? Yeah they were when the stock tensioner was in. Is there any trick to check them without pulling the cam cover off and eying the reg marks?
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Dec 20, 2011 12:12
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AhhYes posted:I walked outside to find my bike on its side today. The black mark on the cover at the front tire shows where the car hit it. Holy poo poo, are you me?
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Dec 20, 2011 14:13
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Ziploc posted:These seem to be reproductions of the stock mirrors. Unless someone can give me a reason to not to. Bike Bandit wants 80$ for 1 OEM mirror. I can get a nice clean pair for half that... Those are pretty exact replicas of the stockers. I run some generic black ones that I got at the local bike shop, and the Bandit mirrors have been moved to my RV90. That being said, the Bandit mirrors are nice, and I never had any trouble with mine moving on me, I just liked the look of the black aftermarket ones on my bike. I've never actually run bar-end mirrors, mainly because I don't really like how they look, so I cant speak to those on a Bandit.
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Dec 20, 2011 14:40
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I prefer bar ends. I can actually see something other than my shoulders in them. It does take some getting used to them being in that position, though. It depends on the stock mirrors, though. My VFR's mirrors are actually pretty good.
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Dec 20, 2011 15:37
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For a commuter that sees a lot of traffic, idiots and interstate/highway I prefer big ugly stock mirrors. For a play bike or one that doesn't see much of that stuff bar end mirrors are nice, don't put them on a sumo though. You will crash and that will be the only thing broken.
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Dec 20, 2011 17:06
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Gnaghi posted:I had the napoleon mirror(s) on my buell and they worked really well. The stock swivel ones tend to vibrate out of position if you aren't re-tightening them all the time. Nope, have to pull it. Also on the mirrors debate, some cheap aftermarket mirrors don't use curved glass and that makes them much less useful.
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Dec 20, 2011 17:14
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Chris Knight posted:Holy poo poo, are you me? Awful wasn't it? If it's any consolation, my bike is just fine. Extremely minor scratches on the end of the handlebars and that's it.
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Dec 20, 2011 19:38
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How critical is switching to a manual CCT and doing the countershaft loctite fix on a DRZ? Will my bike explode next week if I don't do them, or is it just "some bikes" that have problem with these?
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Dec 20, 2011 21:31
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Gnaghi posted:I managed to get a stripped hex head out once by hammering in a oversized torx socket. Great suggestion, I would recommend this as well.
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Dec 20, 2011 22:00
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Nidhg00670000 posted:How critical is switching to a manual CCT and doing the countershaft loctite fix on a DRZ? Will my bike explode next week if I don't do them, or is it just "some bikes" that have problem with these? Probably not next week but I'd do it sooner rather than later, simply because the failed CCT stretches the chain too much, so eventually you'll have to do the MCCT and the cam chain. The countershaft locktite fix...I'd find mine loose every few thousand miles, so I'd do it sooner rather than later, or just keep an eye on the nut/lockwasher. Too much loosening damages the threads though.
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Dec 20, 2011 22:00
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Z3n, it seems your PM inbox is full.
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Dec 20, 2011 23:57
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Gnaghi posted:I managed to get a stripped hex head out once by hammering in a oversized torx socket. Just did this, and it worked. Used loads of penetrating oil. Aerosol - for shotguns as it happens and it worked a treat. Thanks
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Dec 21, 2011 00:20
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Z3n, it seems your PM inbox is full. Fixed and drop me an e-mail at the address I gave you 
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Dec 21, 2011 00:20
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What does this spring attach to? I can't remember and there's nothing intuitive. It's connected to the bottom of the master brake cylinder.
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Dec 21, 2011 01:29
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Piggly Wiggly Woo posted:What does this spring attach to? I can't remember and there's nothing intuitive. It's connected to the bottom of the master brake cylinder. That's your brake light switch, should attach to the brake lever somehow.
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Dec 21, 2011 01:31
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Attaches to the second open slot on the brake lever that the other spring is attached to.
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Dec 21, 2011 01:32
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Z3n posted:Attaches to the second open slot on the brake lever that the other spring is attached to. seems really loose... edit: yep thats it, thanks Piggly Wiggly Woo fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Dec 21, 2011 |
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Dec 21, 2011 01:38
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is there supposed to be a certain amount of drag on my front wheel created by the brake pad disks? i.e. I have my bike up on a stand and I have to use a little amount of force to get the wheel spinning. It's not much about as much as pushing a plate accross a wooden table.
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Dec 21, 2011 19:50
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Piggly Wiggly Woo posted:is there supposed to be a certain amount of drag on my front wheel created by the brake pad disks? Yeah that's pretty normal. Easiest way to see if you have bad drag or not is to ride it around the block, don't use the front brake, both front disks should be cold when you pull back into the garage.
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Dec 21, 2011 19:51
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Ok I need to remove this bolt here that holds my muffler to the frame to the bike.... trouble is, the bolt just free spins in there and will not come out, theres a square nut on the other end which spins along with the bolt, i'm totally dumbfounded and have tried a few other solutions which didn't work. Do I need to hold the square nut on the other end somehow? Because the incredibly tight space leaves virtually no room to get any kind of wrench/tool in there. I've seen a youtube video of someone removing the bolt and he simply removed with easily with a socket. Was the Bolt/hole somehow damaged by my lowside on the gsx-r? 
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Dec 22, 2011 01:25
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Just get a wrench around the back of it to hold the square nut.
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Dec 22, 2011 01:37
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Z3n posted:Just get a wrench around the back of it to hold the square nut. Which at one point was tack-welded on to the frame, but isn't now, but should be again.
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Dec 22, 2011 01:40
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Which at one point was tack-welded on to the frame, but isn't now, but should be again. I gotta stop buying beaters, mine have always been freespinning. Never noticed any weld residue on them either.
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Dec 22, 2011 02:00
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