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Personally, I would hold the title and not even let him near the bike until the last payment is made, on top of the aforementioned contract and schedule. If he were given free reign of the bike before he technically owns it, liabilities can turn into a huge mess.
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Dec 28, 2011 07:14
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GanjamonII posted:I like the guy well enough and want to help him out but I also realize mixing money and friends is a bad idea generally, so what is the most appropriate way to do this to protect both of us? I figure a contract and a planned out schedule of payments, with receipts etc is the best way to do it, but would I hold onto the title until he pays it off? Either all up front or sell it to someone else, in my opinion.
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Dec 28, 2011 08:51
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Honestly you should probably just wait until he has the money. If the title is still yours and he wrecks it it might be a bit of a mess.
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Dec 28, 2011 09:12
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I have a '06 F650GS single and I'm thinking about moving up to a F800ST, what's CA's take on that bike? Is the belt drive any good? I'm also considering a R1150GS, which costs about the same around here, but I need goons' opinions to make up my own 
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Dec 28, 2011 15:47
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GanjamonII posted:Figured this may be the most appropriate thread to ask this in. Well you realize that as long as you have the title, the bike is yours right? So not only are you out a bike if he wrecks it, you're also on the hook for the damage caused when you find out he didn't insure it. Plus how is he going to register it in his name without the title? If you really want to sell it to him. Have him make payments into an escrow account and when all the money is there sell him the bike.
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Dec 28, 2011 16:32
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Not sure why nobody brought it up (is there something I'm missing?), but the other option is for him to seek a loan for the total, although I dunno how likely that is; that's the definition of paying in installments but without the various risks to both of you from your retaining the title.
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Dec 28, 2011 17:06
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Sheik Yerbouti posted:I have a '06 F650GS single and I'm thinking about moving up to a F800ST, what's CA's take on that bike? Is the belt drive any good? Sigtrap owned an F800ST but got rid of it in favor of a VFR800, he could tell you more about the 800. The 1150GS will have a more upright riding position closer to that of your F650, and the wheel sizes will be closer as well. If you like riding the F650 and want more power/passenger/cargo space the 1150 would be the way to go. If you want to spend more time at higher speed and worry less about the final drive and clutch replacement I'd go with the F800. The 1150 will likely cost more to maintain, clutch replacement on those is common around 50-60K and costs 1000-1500 depending on who you find to do it. Valve adjustments are easy but required every 6K, and the final drives of that model were some of the most notorious for failing under heavy load. All that said you'll have near infinite luggage, seat, lighting, windscreen, grip, and sticker options for the 1150. You may want to look at the DL-650 which makes 62hp, which is about 20 less than 1150 but feels very comparable, or if you want a bit more power the DL-1000 makes 92 hp but has a riding position which is closer to the F800ST.
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Dec 28, 2011 17:11
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Thanks for the info so far. My first bike was a SV650 and I loved the engine, but one of the reasons I want to sell the F650GS is the fact that I want a bike with shaft or belt drive as well as ABS, which pretty much narrows it down to BMW or one of the newer GS-like heavy dual sports or touring bikes from other manufacturers which are at the moment very new and therefore way more expensive.
Sheik Yerbouti fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Dec 28, 2011 |
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Dec 28, 2011 18:00
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Sheik Yerbouti posted:Thanks for the info so far. My first bike was a SV650 and I loved the engine, but one of the reasons I want to sell the F650GS is the fact that I want a bike with shaft or belt drive as well as ABS, which pretty much narrows it down to BMW or one of the newer GS-like heavy dual sports or touring bikes from other manufacturers which are at the moment very new and therefore way more expensive. Have you thought about a Buell Ulysses? You get the belt, the upright riding position, and ABS and it should be cheaper to repair (provided you don't have to wait an age for parts) than the R1150, and cheaper than either. Biggest cons will be lack of aftermarket parts, and visiting harley dealerships. The prices I've seen for them used seem to be between 6-7K for a bike with 5-10K miles, or as low as 3500-4500 for a bike with more than 30K EDIT: The Ulysses doesn't have ABS, I thought they made it with that but I was wrong. PlasticSun fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Dec 28, 2011 |
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Dec 28, 2011 18:22
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GanjamonII posted:Figured this may be the most appropriate thread to ask this in. Yep, you would. Consider yourself the bank. And if he defaults on his payments 3k through, congrats you're 3k richer. You can sign all the paperwork and stuff so that once he's done paying you just give it to him and he can transfer the title too, that should be some motivation to stay on top of it.
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Dec 28, 2011 20:38
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PlasticSun posted:Have you thought about a Buell Ulysses? You get the belt, the upright riding position, and ABS and it should be cheaper to repair (provided you don't have to wait an age for parts) than the R1150, and cheaper than either. Biggest cons will be lack of aftermarket parts, and visiting harley dealerships. see: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3443364&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=5#post398674061 +the following 2 pages of thread derail
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Dec 28, 2011 20:54
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GanjamonII posted:Figured this may be the most appropriate thread to ask this in. Unless it's old, most local credit unions have pretty reasonable rates on m/c loans. I would not sell a bike on installment to a friend. Let him make payments to a bank so they can deal with any headaches that may arise from the whole deal. Cash up front, be it from him or the bank. Not your issue...
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Dec 28, 2011 23:00
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GanjamonII posted:Figured this may be the most appropriate thread to ask this in. The best way is to not do it. Don't mix money and friends.
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Dec 29, 2011 04:31
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Is this a ripoff? He's asking $1500. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/2771611917.html quote:12,xxx orig miles, always garaged, no starting or riding issues, no rust issues, great tires. Most all orig parts. Have only changed the handlebars, mirrors, seat cover, and turn signals ( I have the origional turnsignals and they are in excelent condition.). Never in accident, clear and clean title. Call for viewing or cash in hand test ride by a liscensed rider. five503.eight805.six6329. Background: A few years ago, I bought an '83 Honda Nighthawk 550 for entirely too much money (because, like an idiot, I fell in love with the first bike I test-drove), and spent even more money repairing it (because the seller was a jackass). I loved the thing, but ended up selling it to cut my losses, as I was young and it was just too much of a money-sink. Understandably, I'm wary about buying used again, but every spring I think, "drat I miss riding. I should buy a bike this coming winter," and it's about time I do it. If I call this guy, will I end up regretting it?
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Dec 29, 2011 09:25
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PlasticSun posted:Have you thought about a Buell Ulysses? You get the belt, the upright riding position, and ABS and it should be cheaper to repair (provided you don't have to wait an age for parts) than the R1150, and cheaper than either. Biggest cons will be lack of aftermarket parts, and visiting harley dealerships. The Ulysses is a cool bike, I didn't think of that. They're also pretty rare in Germany, which would be a good thing, but not having ABS is a dealbreaker for me. I'm curious why Sigtrap exchanged his ST for a VFR, from what I hear, it's a reliable, easy to ride bike that gets great mileage and the VFR should be very much the same apart from having two more cylinders and a chain. Maintenance costs?
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Dec 29, 2011 11:52
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Steiv posted:Is this a ripoff? He's asking $1500. I think this is way too much money for this bike. You could probably spend 2-2500 and get a hell of a lot more bike. For example my buddy has a Superhawk that he wants $2500 for.
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Dec 29, 2011 17:43
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n8r posted:I think this is way too much money for this bike. You could probably spend 2-2500 and get a hell of a lot more bike. For example my buddy has a Superhawk that he wants $2500 for. What do you think of the Superhawk? There's one around here for $1800.
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Dec 29, 2011 17:50
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Steiv posted:Is this a ripoff? He's asking $1500. Is there a particular reason that bike jumps out at you? Nerobro is the sage of all things GS, but that's not out a horrible price on a well kept GS, especially if its in as good of condition as he says. I'd probably try to bargain down to 1200 or so, which would make it a good deal for a running, functional motorcycle. Superhawk would probably be a bit of a handful for a second, reintroductory bike. I bet you could ride the GS for 5-10k with minimal maintenance and sell it for what you're into it.
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Dec 29, 2011 18:20
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Superhawks are very good sporty focused bikes that you could tour on if you want. Only main issue w/ them is the smaller tank models have pretty poor range.
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Dec 30, 2011 07:10
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Z3n posted:Is there a particular reason that bike jumps out at you? n8r posted:Superhawks are very good sporty focused bikes that you could tour on if you want. Only main issue w/ them is the smaller tank models have pretty poor range. Not a fan of the sport bikes. I guess the Suzuki jumped out at me because it's a pretty-lookin' standard that's the right price. I'm not looking to burn rubber or pop wheelies. I just want a relaxed ride at the right price (and not hafta put thousands of dollars into repair/maintenance.)
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Dec 30, 2011 09:34
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Gnaghi posted:I'm been keeping an eye out for a cheap wr250x for a daily and came across this. Correct me if I'm wrong but the 625 is just the older 690 with just as bulletproof a motor right? The worth of a used LC4 KTM like that is directly proportional to the perceived intelligence and mechanical ability of the previous owner. Well-maintained, the 625s last a long time. But if it's abused or neglected, it'll tend to have a couple gaskets that need replacing, overdue valve inspections, and possibly some old and dirty oil filters. I owned an '06, which is basically the same thing as an '05, and between 4k miles and 13k miles I had to: -replace rocker cover sealant (with a special hondabond sealant, not just RTV) -replace countershaft o-ring and seal -replace negative battery ground -adjust the valves 3x -oil change (with two new filters and new gasket) about 3-4x -replace burned-out bulbs -replace starter clutch So, if somebody isn't keeping up on all that, it can be a bit of a headache. Speaking of which, I guess motards aren't a good primary vehicle for me. They're so fun but I just ride too much to really want another as a main vehicle. I put about 20k on my motorcycle a year, which would give me maybe two years of usability on even the most durable and boring of motards, the unmodded DRZ. The time it took me to put that much mileage on my KTM above was like 4 months, and that was during what most people in New England would consider "unrideable" weather (mid-October - February). FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Dec 31, 2011 |
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Dec 31, 2011 16:20
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needknees posted:Cash up front, be it from him or the bank. Not your issue... Looks like this is the way we're going. Thanks y'all!
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Dec 31, 2011 18:01
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Speaking of which, I guess motards aren't a good primary vehicle for me. They're so fun but I just ride too much to really want another as a main vehicle. I put about 20k on my motorcycle a year, which would give me maybe two years of usability on even the most durable and boring of motards, the unmodded DRZ. The time it took me to put that much mileage on my KTM above was like 4 months, and that was during what most people in New England would consider "unrideable" weather (mid-October - February). The problem is they don't get crashed much and when they do they usually survive, which means there aren't good motors with under 5k on them floating around like there are for sportbikes. Otherwise it'd probably be cheap and easy to just swap in an underused engine every couple of years.
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Dec 31, 2011 19:47
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I found this on CL today. It seems a bit pricey for an SV but I think I can talk it down a bit and compared to the other SVs I've seen (ripped seats, dents and scratches, etc.) seems like it would cake to make it look perfect. Any thoughts? I am a fairly new rider, under 500 miles experience on a 125cc bike. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/2763537806.html
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Jan 3, 2012 19:08
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Sheik Yerbouti posted:I'm curious why Sigtrap exchanged his ST for a VFR, from what I hear, it's a reliable, easy to ride bike that gets great mileage and the VFR should be very much the same apart from having two more cylinders and a chain. Maintenance costs? They're both good bikes, so it really comes down to your personality. I found the BMW to be comparatively boring & weird looking, with an engine that clattered like a sewing machine. By comparison the VFR, to me, looks awesome, sounds way better, is actually more comfortable to ride for longer distances, and as I got mine in anniversary trim, it wears it all on its sleeve. The only place I'd give the nod to the F800ST is fuel economy. It was stupidly frugal with gas, if memory serves. However, with a larger tank, the VFR does just fine. You'll be wanting to get off and stretch and buy a Gatorade or whatever well before you actually run low on fuel. An anecdotal bit of data: When Skier and I did the trip up to Yellowknife, we had to make one long run from Fort Providence NT around the west arm of the Great Slave lake and into Yellowknife. ~196 miles in all. Skier had to limp it a bit on his 599 because he knew what his consumption was gonna be, and sure enough when we rolled in to town to get fuel, he had already switched to reserve. The VFR had ~1/4 tank left. Partially owing to the fairing, partially owing to the fact that we were doing about 52mph, but still.
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Jan 9, 2012 23:36
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So I think motorcycles are really cool and I want to get into biking. Posted a WTB on CL and got this as one of my responses: ZL600 guy posted:Idk make an offer 13k on the clock fresh tires and fluids all tune carbs valves etc daily rider I think he means 1200-1500. Are these good beginner bikes? I actually wanted a Ninja 250 but I like this too.
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Jan 10, 2012 05:05
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A MIRACLE posted:So I think motorcycles are really cool and I want to get into biking. Posted a WTB on CL and got this as one of my responses: I can't wait until I know enough about bikes where I can identify some by sight. I suck. Edit: ZL600. Ugh I REALLY suck. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 05:51
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A MIRACLE posted:So I think motorcycles are really cool and I want to get into biking. Posted a WTB on CL and got this as one of my responses: It's going to handle slower than a Ninja but it should turn way lower revs on the highway, which is a good thing. That bike is an interesting justaposition of style and technology - you typically wouldn't find an inline-4 in a raked out lean-back cruiser like that. Lower-maintenance shaft drive with a higher-maintenance four, even. Kind of unique. It should definitely be manageable for a beginner with enough power to stand your hair up. On paper it's pretty similar to a VF500C Magna, my wife started on one of those and it worked out pretty great for her.
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Jan 10, 2012 07:18
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1990 GS500, $850. Any reason not to buy this as a first bike? Around 50hp, I think. What does CA think of the GS500?
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Jan 10, 2012 07:45
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My first bike is a 2005 GS500, got it for $3500, had only 3000 km on it, and I've put almost 4000 km on it since October. I don't have much of a reference point, as it's the only bike I've ridden (aside from a Virago 250 for a couple days at the rider training course), but it's been great so far. It's easy to handle, dry weight is just less than 400 pounds. I've gotten 340 km on a full (20 L) tank before hitting reserve (which leaves you with about 4 L). I really haven't had any problems with it except in the last month the battery struggles to start 'er up if it's too cold (I live in the great white north that is Canada), but bumping it has worked when the battery hasn't. It's not bad on the highway, 100 km/h in 6th gear is about 5000 rpm (redlines at 11000) so there's lots of room left there. Overall a great experience, I'm very happy with it. That said, after this summer I'm looking ahead for the next bike. Can someone recommend a cruiser between 600 and 750 cc that doesn't have such far-forward foot controls?
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Jan 10, 2012 08:28
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Fifty Three posted:1990 GS500, $850. For a first bike you could do a hell of a lot worse.
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Jan 10, 2012 08:29
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Fifty Three posted:1990 GS500, $850. GS500s are a great first bike, the naked ones even better because there's no fairings to crack if you drop the bike. It's easy to work on, and has lots of parts available. If mine had FI and had better luggage options, I don't think I'd want any other bike atm.
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Jan 12, 2012 06:55
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Well, gently caress. It looks like I might just baaarely be able to afford that bike, but not for a month or so, and even then it's gonna be tight as gently caress towards the end of the semester. It's probably not a financially sound decision but I don't feel like I'll come across a bike like that for that price any time soon. 
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Jan 12, 2012 07:13
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Fifty Three posted:Well, gently caress. It looks like I might just baaarely be able to afford that bike, but not for a month or so, and even then it's gonna be tight as gently caress towards the end of the semester. It's probably not a financially sound decision but I don't feel like I'll come across a bike like that for that price any time soon. If you think you can't afford the bike, then you doubly can't afford the bike, and you can't afford the deferred maintenance to make it safe and the gear so honestly if you're getting in to biking, best to budget big and just do it right, skimping on something like proper classes, safety gear, or maintenance is just taking unnecessary risks.
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Jan 12, 2012 07:19
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Yeah, I know. I already have the class and gear covered. I just thought it would be really nice to get a bike before I graduate.
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Jan 12, 2012 08:56
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No motorcycle is a financially sound decision. Get it. 
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Jan 12, 2012 20:02
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So true. I don't even wanna think about how much money I've spent on my first bike that I got "to save gas going to and from school". But I'm not gonna lie that $30/month to insure for theft and liability and 45mpg city does feel pretty drat sweet even after thousands of dollars in gear, tires, and preventative maintenance. 
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Jan 12, 2012 21:41
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Xovaan posted:So true. I don't even wanna think about how much money I've spent on my first bike that I got "to save gas going to and from school". I can honestly say that even with a broken clutch lever, a worn out clutch cable, a broken shifter, a new starter clutch assembly and flywheel, the magneto cover gasket, a set of new tires, a new chain and 2 new sprockets, full coverage insurance, and an average of 2 oil changes a month, I've done better financially with the bike than with my truck over the same period of time. My truck also gets around 9 miles a gallon, requires 2-3 quarts of oil every week and a half, and I commute about 40 minutes one way.
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Jan 13, 2012 03:06
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Would a KLR650 or DR650 be too tall for me at 5'7"? If so, what else should be looking at as far as dualsports go? I still want to be able to ride comfortably at highway speeds.
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Jan 18, 2012 22:34
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Dutymode posted:Would a KLR650 or DR650 be too tall for me at 5'7"? If so, what else should be looking at as far as dualsports go? I still want to be able to ride comfortably at highway speeds. A lowered F650 GS has a very low and comfortable seat height if you prefer to get both feet down, also older R100 GSs have fairly low seat heights as well. The XT225 has one of the lowest but expect to wait a while to get from 65 mph to 80 mph (pretty much maxxed out) You can put lowering links on DRs/KLRs if you find them too tall as well.
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Jan 18, 2012 22:48
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