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Seat Safety Switch posted:Most of them have bus passes. I forgot that a bus pass was a requirement for RADL membership.
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Feb 4, 2012 02:55
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| # ? May 11, 2024 19:04 |
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Will the Gen1 Mazdaspeed3 seats with in the Gen2? What about airbag connections etc?
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Feb 4, 2012 03:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Most of them have bus passes. LS1s fit in the RX8.
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Feb 4, 2012 03:55
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SynMoo posted:Will the Gen1 Mazdaspeed3 seats with in the Gen2? What about airbag connections etc? Someone finally realizes that the Gen2 interior is uggo. [I have no idea]. Brief googling: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-mazda-3-appearance-interior/7387-gen1-gen2-seats-they-same.html http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=192470.0 The second link claims: some guy posted:the mounting point for the gen1 speed3 is different from the 2011
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Feb 4, 2012 04:15
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MetaJew posted:Someone in this thread claimed that the head on the MZR was too wide to fit in the Miata engine bay. So that's a no go unless you make a tube frame Miata. It was just because of the high pressure fuel pump hanging off the back of the head. A little mod to the cowl and it would fit right in, no biggy I think.
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Feb 4, 2012 07:15
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SiB posted:It was just because of the high pressure fuel pump hanging off the back of the head. A little mod to the cowl and it would fit right in, no biggy I think. I'm really surprised that Mazda didn't drop it into a Miata in '06 for a MSMiata to stand alongside the 3 and 6 editions.
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Feb 4, 2012 07:19
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Sounds like the best car-- except an OEM [hopefully] wouldn't be a complete dick and make you pull the engine to replace the fuel pump.
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Feb 4, 2012 07:40
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For how much power my MS6 has I'd honestly be a little terrified to see what it would do in a Miata.
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Feb 4, 2012 07:42
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I have a '90 Miata that I drive in the summer, and a written off Speed3 (rolled).... maybe...
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Feb 4, 2012 08:05
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I don't know the first thing about finding an appropriate RWD transmission or making adapter bellhousings... which is why I suggest you make the poor man's Boxster and throw that sucker in the trunk.
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Feb 4, 2012 08:29
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Mazda B2300 (ford ranger 2.3) transmission will bolt right up.
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Feb 4, 2012 17:09
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Decided to do the RF strut today after all. Only took 5 hours, including a break for lunch and a few breaks here and there to help my dad put smoothie hubcaps on his Prius  There is indeed no need to touch the lower balljoint, steering tie rod end, or lower control arm bolts, and doing it this way drastically reduces the odds of having to deal with putting the CV joint back together. Now, to get the rears done and get it aligned.
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Feb 6, 2012 02:27
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Doubleposting because I just did the rears too. Vastly easier. The only trick that nobody mentions online is that you really need to get the car way up in the air - the factory shocks are looooong and the FSDs are about an inch longer unloaded. Even with my Craftsman jack and a block of wood under the center jack point to get it up as far as possible in one lift (yes I put it on stands after lifting it) I had to jack up the lower control arm to get enough lift to angle it out. Interestingly enough, despite the fact that both front struts were absolutely completely blown (you could easily compress each one by hand and hold it by the shaft and it still wouldn't rebound), both rears were still in remarkably good shape. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure my left rear wheel bearing is shot. The only thing that baffles me is that it's much louder when I load the right side of the car (i.e. turning left), but the right side wheel bearings all feel good, as does the left front. The left rear makes a flapping or ticking noise as I spin it. Anyone know of any guides other than just the FSM to replace it? Edit: Finally found this. Looks pretty damned painless to me. Edit 2: This is the exact same noise my left rear makes when I spin it by hand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imcyjS5qPh4 IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Feb 7, 2012 |
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Feb 7, 2012 04:37
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I feel like I'm talking to myself here Replaced the LR hub assembly tonight. Definitely helped but it wasn't the real cause of the major noise, apparently. It is a pretty easy job but you'll need a T50 bit to get the hub out, and you "should" have a reverse star bit for the ABS sensor...a 5mm socket worked, though. I'm thinking either it's just straight up tire noise after all, or my RF hub is hosed and if that's the case then I think I will just have a shop do it because I cannot loving bring myself to separate the strut and the knuckle again.
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Feb 10, 2012 06:32
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You're right at 100k miles aren't you?
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Feb 10, 2012 16:23
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Yeah, almost 102k now.
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Feb 10, 2012 17:27
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Why are you having so much trouble with the knuckle? I bang them apart in seconds.
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Feb 10, 2012 21:38
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No amount of prying or hammering would get mine apart in any reasonable amount of time, but then again I wonder if maybe having them apart recently would help. At any rate, though, I don't have a press to get the front wheel bearing in/out.
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Feb 10, 2012 21:47
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So during my little vacation from posting the CEL came on again. I took it to AZ and it was the EGR code again. I went back to Mazda and showed them their own paperwork that stated the EGR was fine and they had replaced the throttle body. After another inspection and round of tests they replaced the EGR and now the car is fine again. Fuuuuuuuun times. In other developments, I bought a set of BC Racing coilovers a few months ago and just haven't had time to install them even though I had two willing helpers. I'm just LAZY. But some discussion in the Miata thread about cheap coilovers got me a little worried. Is BC a bullshit brand? On Mazdas247 there's a good dozen MS6 owners running them on their cars but a few people in other places claim to have had bad experiences with them. Is anyone here running them here? Anyone want to vouch for BC's quality before I install them?
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Feb 10, 2012 22:04
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I have an 07 Black Mica MS3. I just crossed over 61k miles and had a bunch of work done. Before I took it into the shop, there was a weird rattle when I would go over a bump. It almost sounded like the tire/wheel was coming off of the ground and shaking. It was mainly noticeable in the front psgr side are and less often heard on the drivers side front. It happens on big bumps, little bumps, anything except smooth road. It also seems to happen more often on cold days. Anyone have any idea what it could be? The shop couldn't find anything wrong.
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Feb 10, 2012 22:17
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I saw a red MS6 today when we were out shopping and I got all excited and honked and waved. Then I realized I was driving the Jeep.
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Feb 13, 2012 20:43
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I'm looking for a car cover for my 2011 Mazda 3 Hatch, so if anyone can recommend a place/make/whatever, I would appreciate it. It will be under a carport, but the roof is fairly high so it will be catching some sun and some weather. The harshest part will be Texas summer heat and dust. (I will be in CA for a month in March then deploying overseas for the better part of a year, so a good cover would be worth it, I think). LTBS, this may be completely silly, but my 2011 with under 10K miles was making a hell of a lot of noise on bumps at low speed (under 30 MPH) on the rear wheels. Took it to the dealer and they found that the sway bar links needed to be retorqued. Took care of a lot of noise(s) and the car seems to handle better now. Wish I'da gone to get that checked sooner. North Park Mazda for anyone in or near San Antonio has a really great service department (should've bought the thing there  )Definitely loving the bumper-to-bumper coverage on the car while I'm paying on it. Got a new speaker for the passenger door due to be put in soon.
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Feb 14, 2012 23:16
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:LTBS, this may be completely silly, but my 2011 with under 10K miles was making a hell of a lot of noise on bumps at low speed (under 30 MPH) on the rear wheels. Took it to the dealer and they found that the sway bar links needed to be retorqued. Took care of a lot of noise(s) and the car seems to handle better now. Wish I'da gone to get that checked sooner. Amazing this is still an issue. This happened to my 08.5, and I think I've read about it happening to people with 05's and 04's.
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Feb 14, 2012 23:39
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opengl128 posted:Amazing this is still an issue. This happened to my 08.5, and I think I've read about it happening to people with 05's and 04's.  boo. Does yours also have the issue with the rough shift when you decel to like 1st gear then accel again? Makes city driving a pain sometimes (not to mention the fact that it makes you look like you're an idiot driving a stick wrong when it throws you forward or back in your seat). Service guy at the dealership said his '11 6 had the same thing.
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Feb 14, 2012 23:53
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:
That could be it. I'll take it to the shop and have them check. If your 11 has the problem and opengl128's 08.5 did too, my 07 probably does too. Thanks!
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Feb 15, 2012 00:18
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:Definitely loving the bumper-to-bumper coverage on the car while I'm paying on it. Got a new speaker for the passenger door due to be put in soon. That's so strange. Do you have the Bose system? The front passenger speaker went out on my 09 ms3. Fortunately, it was also replaced under warranty.
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Feb 15, 2012 01:25
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Could that be why I sometimes feel what I think is suspension judder that is kind of like a wheel off balance?
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Feb 15, 2012 02:54
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MetaJew posted:That's so strange. Do you have the Bose system? The front passenger speaker went out on my 09 ms3. Fortunately, it was also replaced under warranty. I think I might, not 100% sure though (sport package, I think  )CharlesM posted:Could that be why I sometimes feel what I think is suspension judder that is kind of like a wheel off balance? The more I think about it, the more I think this is very likely the case. I likened the noise to the one you might hear on an empty trailer with mega leaf springs (if that makes any sense at all).
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Feb 15, 2012 04:46
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You'd know if it was the Bose because it's printed on the speaker.
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Feb 15, 2012 04:54
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:
No such issue, but I've got a speed so the whole driveline is different than a n/a 3
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Feb 15, 2012 06:35
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:I'm looking for a car cover for my 2011 Mazda 3 Hatch, so if anyone can recommend a place/make/whatever, I would appreciate it. It will be under a carport, but the roof is fairly high so it will be catching some sun and some weather. The harshest part will be Texas summer heat and dust. (I will be in CA for a month in March then deploying overseas for the better part of a year, so a good cover would be worth it, I think). If you're deploying for the better part of a year, I'd recommend storing it on jack stands, with a full tank of gas and a battery tender. Covercraft model C40032RB is supposedly a good fit. Battery Tender You could also just have someone drive it once a week.
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Feb 15, 2012 06:57
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SynMoo posted:If you're deploying for the better part of a year, I'd recommend storing it on jack stands, with a full tank of gas and a battery tender. Even once every 2-3 weeks should be fine. Also note there's a huge difference between someone just starting it up and idling for a few minutes, and going for an actual drive. You'll want to drive for at least 15-20 minutes, to get it fully up to temperature and burn all the moisture out of the engine. Otherwise, don't bother, you're just going to drain the battery and wear your engine needlessly.
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Feb 15, 2012 08:01
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So what's up with people calling their 2008 cars a 2008.5?
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Feb 16, 2012 03:51
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hunter x az posted:So what's up with people calling their 2008 cars a 2008.5? 
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Feb 16, 2012 04:04
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hunter x az posted:So what's up with people calling their 2008 cars a 2008.5? Mazda constantly does this, and its sorta annoying. First batch of 2010 3's, for example, came with footwell lighting and indicator mirrors. Late 2010's don't have either.
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Feb 16, 2012 04:08
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Cygni posted:Mazda constantly does this, and its sorta annoying. First batch of 2010 3's, for example, came with footwell lighting and indicator mirrors. Late 2010's don't have either. I have an 2010 speed3 manufactured in January 2010 with LED mirrors but without footwell lighting.
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Feb 16, 2012 17:03
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SynMoo posted:If you're deploying for the better part of a year, I'd recommend storing it on jack stands, with a full tank of gas and a battery tender. Yeah the service guy at the dealer told me to either disconnect one of the battery leads or have someone drive it periodically 15-20 mins. Still seems like keeping it covered would be a good idea though, eh? Amazon is yelling at me that the covercraft you mentioned WILL NOT FIT OMG 
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Feb 17, 2012 20:24
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:Yeah the service guy at the dealer told me to either disconnect one of the battery leads or have someone drive it periodically 15-20 mins. Still seems like keeping it covered would be a good idea though, eh? Amazon is yelling at me that the covercraft you mentioned WILL NOT FIT OMG A few things: 1) I have a battery tender. Since my commute decreased drastically, I don't drive to work anymore so I'll plug the car in when I get home and maybe drive it twice a week regularly. It's fairly inexpensive and should prolong the life of my battery. I also plan on getting a motorcycle at some point and I was definitely going to get a battery tender for that since it would just be for recreational use and bike charging systems are usually not that great. 2) I've heard anecdotes about car covers being terrible for your paint if you park the car anywhere windy. Apparently the covers will scratch your paint to poo poo. So, keep that in mind. 3) Lastly, maybe someone else can comment on this, but if you leave a tank of gas in the car you probably want to also use some sort of additive to keep the fuel from breaking down and turning into varnish. It seems like gas that has ethanol doesn't last nearly as long. Would it make sense to park a car like this with a near-empty tank?
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Feb 18, 2012 05:51
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Some say nearly empty, some say as full as possible.
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Feb 19, 2012 16:09
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| # ? May 11, 2024 19:04 |
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Any news on a 2013 MS3? My lease will be up at the end of the year, and I want another one. If it doesn't exist, I need to start thinking about what to do.. I've been using my Mazda dealer for oil changes for paper trail (lease, warranty, etc) reasons since I got the car. Generally, it's cheap and hassle less, the car is two years old (2010) with 18,000 miles. Suddenly they want to switch to synthetic (no) and begged me to change the air filter and cabin filter. Oh, the "deal" they had offered for both filters was $200 with labor. I don't think so... $28 on RockAuto and 20 minutes of my time, and I was still taken as the 1) engine filter still looked pretty clean and 2) the cabin filters were passable. Ugh.
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Feb 21, 2012 03:09
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