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slidebite posted:A friend restored an old suzuki intruder and redid the tank and did it spraybombs with paint mixed at the paint supplier. Did several coats, clear, wetsand, more clear, stuck it in his oven, drat thing looked pro. You can easily spraycan-paint a small surface like an mc tank. First key is preparation and a really smooth (grit about 800) and clean surface (rubbing alcohol and micro-fiber cloth). Second key is patience and layers. Spray real thin and let the poo poo rest for 15 minutes. Repeat for 4-5 layers (remember to clean your spraycan jet inbetween). Then very lightly rub the poo poo with grit 800/1000 and clean it. Wait two or three days. This is the hard part, since you just can't wait and your tank looks dull and sad. Clean it with rubbing alcohol and repeat what you did but now with a compatible clear coat. Compatibility between the clear coat and the paint is really important. Buy "sets" or ask at the shop. There's no reason to bake poo poo in your oven with modern DIU-spraycans, just keep operating temperatures above 18-20 degrees Celsius.
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Feb 17, 2012 15:38
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Thanks for the advice on the painting. I've done some reading around the internet and a lot of what I've read says to sand the cured color layer before the clear layers, which is something you didn't mention. What's your take on that?Endless Mike posted:A Uly would probably look pretty good "painted" in bedliner. It does look pretty cool  But it literally disappears 
clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Feb 17, 2012 |
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Feb 17, 2012 17:20
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Sir Cornelius posted:There's no reason to bake poo poo in your oven with modern DIU-spraycans, just keep operating temperatures above 18-20 degrees Celsius. All I'm saying is depending on the job and care taken, spray bombs can look perfectly fine or at least should.
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Feb 17, 2012 18:57
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Did DRZ's come stock with a Renthal bar? Mine has a Fatboy bar and I don't know if it was stock or if it was added on by the PO. i have an 07 DRZ aswell and it has fatbars on it.
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Feb 17, 2012 19:02
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KARMA! posted:Do you feel the shudder through the lever or handlebars? It was thru the bars, but I wasn't able to repeat it today so that's good I guess. I felt a little pulsing in the brakes so I'm going to check the pads, they're old I know.
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Feb 17, 2012 22:19
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nsaP posted:It was thru the bars, but I wasn't able to repeat it today so that's good I guess. I felt a little pulsing in the brakes so I'm going to check the pads, they're old I know. Your brake disc(s) could be misaligned or warped too.
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Feb 18, 2012 00:07
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Ziploc posted:Can someone ID this pillion peg please? My bike has miss matched pillion pegs for some dumb reason (probably cause it fell over, not surprised) and I like the style of this one, which is not original. But I have no idea how to get a matching one for the other (right) side. After my local Suzuki dealer giving me the dumbest look when I asked him if he could find a match, I decided to go looking on eBay. I've also wanted to try a more rigid rider peg too and I found this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/270853574714?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Am I crazy for wanting to try these? I like the style, but I wonder how strong they are. EDIT: Will they even fit my 02 Bandit? Ziploc fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Feb 18, 2012 |
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Feb 18, 2012 00:21
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Olde Weird Tip posted:What year? The later ones came with Renthal FatBars echomadman posted:i have an 07 DRZ aswell and it has fatbars on it. Ok, yeah mine's an '07 and has the same bar. In other news, the wife is letting me keep the Honda and I'm heavily considering turning it into a cafe racer style bike for local twisties. Someone tell me this is a terrible idea...
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Feb 18, 2012 01:01
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Ok, yeah mine's an '07 and has the same bar. That is a great idea.
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Feb 18, 2012 01:43
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Welp my local track canceled all sumo racing this year, I guessing because not enough racers showing up. I did the last and second to last event and aside from a blown engine or injury I couldn't see any reason why I couldn't make it to every event this year. Also on the last event the championship cup went to Canada.  So looks like I'll be commuting 2 1/2 hours to OVRP and maybe 4 hours to Summit Point. First order of business, replace these crappy tie-downs that pull out when I tighten the straps. Is there a good alternative? The one in the pic isn't too bad but some seriously pull out a good couple inches. Locking tire-holds are out because then I'd need to keep the bed open and all my gas, stands and stuff would fall out. 
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Feb 18, 2012 09:58
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nsaP posted:It was thru the bars, but I wasn't able to repeat it today so that's good I guess. I felt a little pulsing in the brakes so I'm going to check the pads, they're old I know. Build up of brake dust in the pads? I had something similar with my last bike that would disappear if I took the caliper off the disc and smacked the pads around a little. Having said that, the pads were ancient.
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Feb 18, 2012 11:06
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I'm off to take my MSF! High of 79, living in Florida has but a few benefits, and warm weather is one of them (the only one). Cloudy with small chance of rain today and thunder storms midday tomorrow though, ugh.
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Feb 18, 2012 13:14
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BlackLaser posted:I'm off to take my MSF! High of 79, living in Florida has but a few benefits, and warm weather is one of them (the only one). Cloudy with small chance of rain today and thunder storms midday tomorrow though, ugh. Consider me educated. I had no idea Florida gave a poo poo about motorcycle safety foundations.
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Feb 18, 2012 15:17
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Sir Cornelius posted:Consider me educated. I had no idea Florida gave a poo poo about motorcycle safety foundations. Two days MSF required to obtain a motorcycle license in the state of FL as of 7/08. Home for lunch. Instructor is an ex motorcycle cop. Yikes. I spy a CRF230L with my name on it when I get back out there. 
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Feb 18, 2012 17:40
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BlackLaser posted:Two days MSF required to obtain a motorcycle license in the state of FL as of 7/08. Home for lunch. Instructor is an ex motorcycle cop. Yikes. I spy a CRF230L with my name on it when I get back out there. The CRF230L is literally the worst bike you could get. Edit: Sorry, I'm an idiot. For no good reason, I thought you were talking about purchasing. Perfectly fine MSF bike. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Feb 18, 2012 |
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Feb 18, 2012 18:50
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I had one, or something drat close, in my MSF that I took cause I thought it'd be easier/more fun than the little suzuki and kawa 250 cruisers they had. Probably would have been great, except the thing ran like poo poo and took what felt like forever to respond to throttle inputs. Launching it would be a whole second between "twist back throttle" to "motor starts to spin up". I didn't give a gently caress tho I was on a motorcycle 
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Feb 18, 2012 19:10
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Sir Cornelius posted:Consider me educated. I had no idea Florida gave a poo poo about motorcycle safety foundations. They changed it as of a few years ago to where it's required for everyone operating a motorcycle on public roads. All the old guys who had been riding for years were displeased, to say the least.
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Feb 18, 2012 20:18
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BlackLaser posted:I'm off to take my MSF! High of 79, living in Florida has but a few benefits, and warm weather is one of them (the only one). Cloudy with small chance of rain today and thunder storms midday tomorrow though, ugh. Whereabouts in FL?
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Feb 19, 2012 02:05
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EZipperelli posted:Whereabouts in FL? Tampa'ish. No CRF for me, I am built too low to the ground. Had some turd Honda 250 that started out with an engine full of water that the instructor cleared by bouncing off the limiter for 2 minutes  . Bike would only run with the choke on, and I was not allowed to turn off the fuel. My 35 year old bike finds neutral easier than this bike with 1K miles on it. People must beat the poo poo out of these things. Still did pretty well and was the first bike out for most drills. Need practice with very slow maneuvers and keeping my legs against the tank. Some girls dropped their bikes, couldn't shift. Couple Layer Dan's. No sport bike bro's. Long loving day out there, plus homework. Back tomorrow 8-5. Also this is not the chat thread, oops.
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Feb 19, 2012 03:28
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BlackLaser posted:Tampa'ish. Is yours a 2 day or 3 day (a lot of the ones I saw also had a Wednesday night in the classroom beforehand)? I was thinking of doing mine when I'm back (also Tampa-ish) in a few weeks; won't do me a lick of good paperwork-wise in terms of getting my Japanese license, but is waaay cheaper than lessons here and I could use a lot more time on a proper-sized bike. Time is pretty limited though, I'd only be able to do a weekend course. My bike got knocked over by some strong winds (the only decent, protected place to park in my complex is taken up by two old lovely bikes that are being stored by someone), and now the front turn signal on that side doesn't blink (just goes solid), and the rear one is inoperative. I fiddled around with the indicators just using my hands to no effect, where should I look first? Likely I'll need to buy a soldering iron? Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Feb 19, 2012 |
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Feb 19, 2012 09:23
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I'm kind of curious just how the basic riding course takes two days to complete? Or 3 for that matter. My QRide (same as MSF basically) took about 6 hours and most of that was scooting around the city just riding basically.
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Feb 19, 2012 11:17
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Idaho STAR, 3 day program. First day is mostly classroom, with basic bike familiarization; second day is stop, go, S-curves, circles (left and right), emergency stops, cones, emergency swerves, &c; third day is a recap with practice, final testing, then a "closed-course street simulation" afterward. I actually found all three days very useful when I did it, even though I had been riding for two years beforehand. The dozens of repeats of the S-curves, emergency stops (complete with kill-switch use), and emergency swerves in different situations actually made a few of those maneuvers habit, and broke one or two bad habits I had developed myself. Also, control of different styles of motorcycle (we had a few low cruisers, a few standards, and a few dual-sports mixed between the 25 people, and we did every maneuver in each style) in different tests, like the 4-foot low-speed cone weave, was something I'm sure I would never have done on my own. The first day of classroom and bike familiarization was pretty boring for me, but there were a few people who had never been on a bike before, and I have no doubt that it was very useful for them. Also, having 25 people ride in a big oval for 10 laps in one direction, then for 20 in the other, seems pretty boring, but it really gets vehicle spacing, speed pace, and "establishing a comfort zone" into your head. And even though a bit of the classroom work was very dull, there were a few small sections where I said to myself silently "Gee, I didn't know that. Nice to know." Just little things, but they're things I remember clearly even now. The test on the third day was actually pretty challenging in some respects, and I thought that was a good thing. It forced you to 'think on your feet' a few times (as well as stand on your pegs a few times), and you only had one chance, which upped the stress level a bit. All but one person in my group passed at one level or another, and most of them had never set butt on a motorcycle before the first day. I just did some research on QRide, and it doesn't seem anything like the MSF, or STAR, our direct knockoff (there has even been a lawsuit from MSF!) course in preparation. There was one other licensed rider taking the course with me, and he had been riding for 20 years in both cross-country touring, and recreationally off-road. He told me that the course was a help, and well worth the $125 or whatever it cost, even with his prior experience. I've heard similar things from other veteran riders, especially about the 'Intermediate' (higher-speed collision and obstacle handling, you can use your own bike up to 1200cc) and 'Advanced' (race-style maneuvering and more advanced techniques) classes, even though both of those are optional one-day courses. I think that complaining about people doing safety courses is just a tiny bit arrogant. quote:My bike got knocked over by some strong winds (the only decent, protected place to park in my complex is taken up by two old lovely bikes that are being stored by someone), and now the front turn signal on that side doesn't blink (just goes solid), and the rear one is inoperative. I fiddled around with the indicators just using my hands to no effect, where should I look first? Likely I'll need to buy a soldering iron? Do you use regular bulbs, or LED? If it's regular bulbs, replace the rear bulb. Sometimes having one bulb out means the turn signal blinker won't actually get enough current draw to blink, or it may blink very erratically (solid for 15 seconds, blinks off for a split-second, then back solid). Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Feb 19, 2012 |
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Feb 19, 2012 11:40
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Geirskogul posted:I think that complaining about people doing safety courses is just a tiny bit arrogant. I didn't mean to come across as if I had done that, I was just wondering why it took 2 - 3 days. Seems like it covers a lot more than the basic QRide stuff - we have to go to private companies for advanced training like it seems you guys get as part of your MSF.
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Feb 19, 2012 12:50
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Ah. Tone is hard to infer through text, and this is SA, where we are all critics by default, which is why I read it that way.
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Feb 19, 2012 12:56
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Is yours a 2 day or 3 day (a lot of the ones I saw also had a Wednesday night in the classroom beforehand)? I was thinking of doing mine when I'm back (also Tampa-ish) in a few weeks; won't do me a lick of good paperwork-wise in terms of getting my Japanese license, but is waaay cheaper than lessons here and I could use a lot more time on a proper-sized bike. Time is pretty limited though, I'd only be able to do a weekend course. 2 day with these guys http://www.flpmt.com/ 8-11:30 was class, hour lunch, 12:30-5:30 range. We'll see how today goes. Probably not much more class, can't imagine how many more drills we have to do. It was a lot to take in for someone who has never ridden at all (me) going from a wobbly power walk across the course to emergency braking, weaving, and shifting up to third gear by the end of the day. Just as I was getting comfortable with one, it was on to the next.
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Feb 19, 2012 12:57
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So I just got a roketa 110cc quad for free from Craigslist. Of course it doesn't run so I am gonna check the same stuff we do with motorcycles. The battery is a ct5l-bs and Google can't seem to tell me if its ok to pop the top and pour in like distilled water if its low. If its "maintainance free" does that mean charging is my only hope before buying a new one?
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Feb 20, 2012 05:48
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Shadetree opinion: If the cells can be uncapped, it's OK to refill.
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Feb 20, 2012 08:38
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Bucephalus posted:Shadetree opinion: If the cells can be uncapped, it's OK to refill. Sounds straight forward enough. Thanks 
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Feb 20, 2012 16:17
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About now is when I should start planning my Sturgis 2012 trip. We usually do the Seattle -> Missoula -> Sheridan -> Sturgis -> Cody -> Missoula -> Seattle loop but I did that in 2008 and 2010 so I am interested in seeing some different towns, maybe even shave a day off Sturgis proper and stretch the return trip by a day. A couple options I am considering are Whitefish, MT and Stanley, ID. Both are two-day rides toward home from Sturgis with a first day around 350 miles and the next about 400. Between Sturgis and either destination are kind of lovely rides, I realize. Looks like potential stops are Harlowton, MT or Dubois, WY. Anybody have an opinion either way? If we do Whitefish, we'll arrive from the east, through Glacier NP which I imagine is cool. If we do Stanley, well, I just really like Stanley and the roads between there and the Washington border.
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Feb 20, 2012 21:24
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Looking to sell my 2003 gsxr 600 with a clean title and about 21000 miles. Tires only have about 800 miles on them with tons of tread left. It has a yoshi slip on, NGK iridium plugs and a BMC air filter. Is 3000 a fair price for it? I'm in northern California if that matters. I see similar bikes with more miles have been going for similar prices on CL, if not a bit more.
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Feb 21, 2012 03:49
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Whiteboy posted:Looking to sell my 2003 gsxr 600 with a clean title and about 21000 miles. Tires only have about 800 miles on them with tons of tread left. It has a yoshi slip on, NGK iridium plugs and a BMC air filter. Is 3000 a fair price for it? I'm in northern California if that matters. I see similar bikes with more miles have been going for similar prices on CL, if not a bit more. Depends entirely on how well off the bike is. All consumables: age of tires, last fluid change (including fork oil), chain/sprocket life, valve adjustment, battery. Also, if the bike runs well - if it has a slip-on and aftermarket air filter, it might be lean unless it's been rejetted properly. These are all things that a knowledgeable buyer will be looking at. I would spend $3,000 on the GSXR if it was in pristine condition, but would probably haggle you down otherwise if it's the condition most bikes I see are in.
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Feb 21, 2012 04:00
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That generation GSXR was already fuel injected. Not that that automatically fixes a lean condition, but if it needs to be tuned, it wont be as simple as buying four mainjets
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Feb 21, 2012 04:16
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clutchpuck posted:If we do Whitefish, we'll arrive from the east, through Glacier NP which I imagine is cool. If we do Stanley, well, I just really like Stanley and the roads between there and the Washington border. If you were to do it, you'd probably want to do Hwy 2. It's nice and curvy without the incredibly awful traffic. It'll be pretty boring from the East side of Glacier park for some time as you know, but 87 East from Great Falls toward Billings is nicer than the interstate. slidebite fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Feb 21, 2012 |
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Feb 21, 2012 06:02
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Well we're definitely leaning toward Whitefish. I think we're going to get off the interstate at Billings and spend the first night out of Sturgis in Harlowton. From there, probably 12 east to 89 and follow it north through Lewis and Clark NF to 2. As far as traveling through Montana goes, that seems like a pretty good route. Am I making a huge mistake?
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Feb 21, 2012 07:02
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Depends entirely on how well off the bike is. All consumables: age of tires, last fluid change (including fork oil), chain/sprocket life, valve adjustment, battery. Also, if the bike runs well - if it has a slip-on and aftermarket air filter, it might be lean unless it's been rejetted properly. These are all things that a knowledgeable buyer will be looking at. The tires are only about four months old. I change my oil every 2000 miles using motul synthetic oil and the fork oil was changed by the guy I bought it from. He was the second owner and he changed all the fluids in the bike and was working on fixing what the first ruined when he laid down the bike. The first owner dented the exhaust a bit and threw away all the fairings so I had to ebay some used OEM ones from some guy. The guy I bought it from cleaned the bike up had the frame and fork checked to make sure everything was still good to go. It looked like the only damage done was to the exhaust and the fairings. I bought the bike from him for $2000 and put everything back together. Since then I've repainted the gas tank and rear cowling with black automotive paint (not cheap rattlecan), changed the plugs and air filter, bought a new battery and bought a new set of tires. The chain and sprocket I was going to replace when I bought the plugs but they both still look perfectly fine. I don't really know how to tell if the bike is running lean but I can tell you it runs a lot better than it did before I bought the new plugs and filter. Now that I'm not posting from my phone I can give more info on it. With all that in mind, how far should I lower the price? From looking at craigslist I don't see many at a $3000 price and the ones close to it are all salvage titled bikes. The guy looking at my bike is my brother's friend so I'm not looking to take advantage of him but I'm also not looking to get rid of my bike cheap. Few pictures- http://i.imgur.com/yTgK6.jpg (Bike when I bought it, front end assembly was in garage and included in the sale. Ignore what I'm wearing, please.) http://i.imgur.com/6MLjI.jpg http://i.imgur.com/IMqq5.jpg (Dented pipe, really hate that first owner) http://i.imgur.com/5mUQO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/mFOc5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/VvviD.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QA8CJ.jpg (Crack I filled in on the back side)
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Feb 21, 2012 07:25
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Start at 3k, work your way down. Write up a solid ad with all the nitty details, and expect to have to answer stupid questions anyways. Take whatever you can get around $2800. That's how I'd do it. Buddy price would be around $2500ish.
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Feb 21, 2012 08:09
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clutchpuck posted:Well we're definitely leaning toward Whitefish. I think we're going to get off the interstate at Billings and spend the first night out of Sturgis in Harlowton. From there, probably 12 east to 89 and follow it north through Lewis and Clark NF to 2. As far as traveling through Montana goes, that seems like a pretty good route. No, that's fine. To be clear though, it isn't exactly exciting mountain roads, especially around Billings. But the scenery will at least be bearable most of the time. Something else to consider, once you're at billings, you're only about 2 hours from Yellowstone/Gardiner. Just a thought, but crowds will probably make you want to ride your bike off a bridge.
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Feb 21, 2012 15:22
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Our traditional Sturgis route takes us through Ten Sleep, Cody, Dead Indian Pass, and Yellowstone, that's a pretty staggering set of scenery. But this will be my third trip to Sturgis so now it's time for something new.
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Feb 21, 2012 17:30
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Oh yeah, sure. If you've seen Yellowstone than I would skip it too. You'll like Glacier. I really like the south and NW of Montana. The rest is pretty drab, but as long as you're expectations aren't super high you'll like it.
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Feb 21, 2012 18:23
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My buddy recently bought a '76 Honda CB550 SuperSport and had a mechanic give it a once over. He mentioned it needed new tires and gave a vague quote of ~$350. Half-rear end googling indicates that $150 per tire is 'normal'. He's new and I don't even ride, I guess my real questions are 1) does that seem right and 2) are there any special considerations when buying tires for vintage bikes? Also, bike looks like this: 
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Feb 21, 2012 20:20
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